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BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer
My old thread was sent to the archives due to inactivity, so it's time for a new one. Here's the old: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3496175

For those who don't remember, I bought this car three years ago. It's a huge piece of crap and possibly the worst car ever produced in a factory for use on public roads. It has acrylic body panels glued to fiberglass body panels that cracked when the weather changed, nothing fit together properly at the factory, it leaks like a sieve, overheated when new, and passengers were known to get trapped inside when the hydraulic doors would fail and spray hot oil across the interior of the car.

Welcome to the Bricklin Safety Vehicle 1.



It's been nearly a year since I've done anything of substance to the Bricklin. I decided to make the new thread because I was making small updates in the general chat thread but I can't keep up there and posts were getting lost. I also recently bought another project car and figured I would use this thread to keep track of them all.

I moved this week, which I thought was going to be a huge undertaking. And it was. I had to pull the 4.8 LS engine out of the Brick so I could move the car safely from the old lovely garage to the new improved one.

Onto pictures!:

This is after taking the engine back out. The headlight is up because the janky vacuum system for the headlights doesn't let them both be up or down unless there is constant vacuum. And since these cars have poo poo vacuum systems that use a coffee can as a reservoir, they would constantly drive around with the headlights trading places up and down or bobbing in place according to vacuum pressure. Quality.



And out of the garage for the first time in 3 and a half years! Half of it looks so happy to be out!



On the trailer:



And at the new house after a brisk 1.5 mile drive.



Here is where it will sit until I figure out next plans. This garage is light years better than the last one. There are no gaps around the garage doors to cover the car in dust, it actually has real grounded power here, and the list goes on.





How did I get the rest of the car there you might ask? Slowly.



Tomorrow I'm making my last trip to pick up the engines and last parts and pieces from the old garage.




After getting the LS engine in place in the engine bay, I decided that there's not a whole lot of room for a turbo. Making matters worse, the Bricklin has terrible engine cooling from the factory and the cars were known to overheat with the stock NA engine. Adding an intercooler and turbo heat will just compound the problem.

What you can't see here is the radiator will be about 3" from the farthest forward part of the engine:



But I gotta say, the LS looks pretty good in this car:



Older pic with the old truck water pump and fan. The fan would basically be about an inch into the radiator here:





Because of all of this, I've decided on one of three solutions:
1. Stick with the LS engine, but go with a higher displacement 5.7 or 6.0 version and keep it NA with gobs of torque.
2. Take apart the stock AMC 360 engine and see if it's rebuildable. If it is, then maybe that wouldn't be a bad idea as long as it can be modded a bit to not be terrible.
3. gently caress it and keep the 4.8 and supercharge it or whatever can fit and hope for the best.



Either way, I'm not going to be using the T-56 Magnum I purchased for this car, and I don't want the hassle of selling it on Craigslist and losing 1/3 of its value. So I bought another car to shoehorn it into.

Meet my $500 running '93 SC400. It runs, but the transmission pisses fluid all over the pavement, so it won't actually move under its own power. 188k on the clock and it has a terrible paint job, but it'll do for what I have in mind.



This car has seen better days, but pretty soon it'll see even better days.





Sweet interior weight reduction:





Engine runs great, which isn't unusual for the 1uz-fe at under 200k miles.






So the plans for the SC are full race. Gutted, cage, etc. It'll be a car I can toss around a track and not worry about if I put it into a wall.

Options for this car:

1. Keep the 1uz-fe and get an adapter for the T-56.
2. Pull the 1uz and sell it to get what I spent for the car back and swap in the 4.8 from the Bricklin and use the T-56.

Pros of option 1:
- I can keep the 4.8 in the Bricklin and not have to buy another engine, unless I go back to the AMC engine in which case it won't matter.
- The 1uz-fe is a badass engine with roots in Toyota's racing programs. DOHC, very stout and capable of making good power with FI.
- I will save a ton of money not having to fabricate or otherwise fit new parts in the engine bay to match the LS engine. (accessories, radiator, motor mounts, ECU, wiring harness, etc)
- It'll be the OEM engine so people won't give me poo poo for an LS swap. (not that I really care)

Cons of option 1:
- The engine has 188k miles on it and unknown maintenance records.
- Probably needs all new timing components, water pump, and other parts.
- Engine/transmission compatibility issues. Not sure what adapter to use and how the clutch will work with the short input shaft on the T-56.
- It's totally stock, so it needs $$ poured in for upgrades.

Pros of option 2:
- The LS engine and T-56 will mate together perfectly, no questions asked.
- I already have the flywheel, clutch disc, slave cylinder, LS2 intake manifold, headers, wiring harness, ECU, new water pump, and other parts.
- The 4.8 engine is also a badass and capable of GOBS of power when properly upgraded. Huge aftermarket too.
- The 4.8 I have has 40k miles on it and is in perfect condition from what I can tell.
- I can sell the stock 1uz for at least a couple hundred bucks, if not enough to pay off the car's purchase price.

Cons of option 2:
- I'll need to either buy a new engine for the Bricklin, or rebuild the AMC 360 if I even can. Both are expensive.
- The best engine mount kit for the SC costs $1,899, but comes with engine and transmission mounts, baffled oil pan, oil filter relocation kit, and the driveshaft ready to go. Expensive, but very complete with a good reputation.
- I'll need to buy/fabricate more parts to jam the GM engine into the Toyota body. Fortunately it's been done before, and it's a race car so it won't have to LOOK pretty.
- Lose street cred with a GM engine. :qq:


I have enough room at the new house to fit all of my cars, which is exciting since I now own 5. That's a shitload of cars to park in a place like Los Angeles. Once the Lexus slides in next to the Bricklin in the new garage, I'll be able to park my Talon where the Lexus is and still have room for my Jeep. My Fiesta and my very understanding girlfriend's Mazda CX-3 fit in the driveway in front of the gate that's behind my Jeep in this pic:




So there we have it. I have too many cars, and I miiiight end up selling the Jeep and the Fiesta to get a diesel Grand Cherokee for daily/tow duties in the coming months. I just need to see if work picks up this year.

As for this thread, I'm going to start tearing down the AMC engine pretty soon. I want to see what the insides look like after it's sat for 35 years full of oil and coolant. Who knows, maybe it'll be an easier rebuild than I thought.

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Echotic
Oct 20, 2013
Awesome to see this project revived. I was quite taken by your previous thread and find the Bricklin just as fascinating as it is bizarre.
If you put the 4.8 in the SC400 then I urge you to reconsider a highly strung 4G63 in the Bricklin.

charliemonster42
Sep 14, 2005

Peripheral port 13b for the SC!

atomicthumbs
Dec 26, 2010


We're in the business of extending man's senses.
put the 1uz in thr bciklin

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


atomicthumbs posted:

put the 1uz in thr bciklin

BlackMK4
Aug 23, 2006

wat.
Megamarm
I didn't expect that. Wow.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Put the 1UZ in the WJ.

big dong wanter
Jan 28, 2010

The future for this country is roads, freeways and highways

To the dangerzone
if we are playing engine swap i vote fiesta engine in the bricklin, amc 360 in the jeep, 1uz the fiesta and 4.8 the sc400

Preoptopus
Aug 25, 2008

Три полоски,
три по три полоски
I know this thread bump is just a way for you to stay motivated but I say you either gotta cut your losses or go in all the way with the Bricklin.

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer

Preoptopus posted:

I know this thread bump is just a way for you to stay motivated but I say you either gotta cut your losses or go in all the way with the Bricklin.

It absolutely is a way to stay motivated. I also couldn't do a lot of the welding and fab work at my old garage due to lack of proper electricity and other issues. The new garage gives me much better access where the car can't be out of sight out of mind for 8 months out of the year.

I can't go "all the way" with the Bricklin until money starts to pick up again. My industry is kind of a mess right now and I've been in a personal 3 year recession because of it. The Bricklin needs about 8-10 grand (roughly 3 grand of that in the door restoration and modification alone) before it can be roadworthy and I don't have that kind of cash lying around these days. I'm working on ways to fix that though. In the meantime, I can use the parts I already have to get both of these cars as far as I can.

After today, I'm set on still putting the LS in the Bricklin. I was trying to move the AMC engine into my new garage and this happened:








The AMC 360 has to be 150lbs heavier than the 4.8 and it's a bitch to move around. That's some lovely concrete, but the LS was a breeze to move around and didn't punch a hole in the loving ground.

Though I saw this on the exhaust manifold of the AMC engine and thought it was pretty cool for 1974 tech.

literally a fish
Oct 2, 2014

German officer Johannes Bolter peeks out the hatch of his Tiger I heavy tank during a quiet moment before the Battle of Kursk - c:1943 (colorized)
Slippery Tilde

Preoptopus posted:

I know this thread bump is just a way for you to stay motivated but I say you either gotta cut your losses or go in all the way with the Bricklin.

6.0L truck LS (LQ4) + thumpr. Then we can be 6L buddies! :v:

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

BoostCreep posted:

Engine runs great, which isn't unusual for the 1uz-fe at under 200k miles.

1. Keep the 1uz-fe and get an adapter for the T-56.

They apparently handle higher mileage pretty well too.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

literally a fish posted:

6.0L truck LS (LQ4) + thumpr. Then we can be 6L buddies! :v:

Nah. L92, AFR heads, VVT delete, cam, LS3 intake. 500 wheel, N/A.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Serious question, why would you delete VVT?

e: vvvvvv that makes sense. the only first hand experience I have with any form of VVT is first generation Honda VTEC, so I'm way out of the loop..

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:44 on Jan 17, 2016

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

some texas redneck posted:

Serious question, why would you delete VVT?

I don't think any of the performance cams are set up for it, and I don't think custom tunes tend to take it into account.

Plus it's a bunch of added complication at the timing chain, why would you want to keep it in a car where you're shooting for high HP numbers?

literally a fish
Oct 2, 2014

German officer Johannes Bolter peeks out the hatch of his Tiger I heavy tank during a quiet moment before the Battle of Kursk - c:1943 (colorized)
Slippery Tilde
VVT is only really on those motors for emissions reasons anyway.

In reality, I for one vote T56 + 1UZ in the SC400. 1UZ is a loooovely motor.
And then a big ole LS in the Bricklin.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Yeah, since it is still a single cam pushrod engine, VVT can only change the advance / retard of the cam as a whole relative to the crank. It helps, but it works better on engines where you get to vary the timing of the cams relative to each other as well.

atomicthumbs
Dec 26, 2010


We're in the business of extending man's senses.

BoostCreep posted:

Though I saw this on the exhaust manifold of the AMC engine and thought it was pretty cool for 1974 tech.


1. what is that
2. is that an asbestos gasket

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

atomicthumbs posted:

1. what is that
2. is that an asbestos gasket

It's a flappy thing with a bimetal spring that restricts the exhaust when cold to build backpressure and force more exhaust into the intake manifold crossover to heat up the carb and intake faster.

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.

atomicthumbs posted:

put the 1uz in thr bciklin

IOwnCalculus posted:

Put the 1UZ in the WJ.

Put a 1UZ in everything. :colbert:


Sweet thread, glad to see a SC400 in a thread in AI.

1UZs are generally a pain to connect to any kind of transmission other than the A341E. Bellhousing/flywheel gets expensive fast. The ECU is good, and will work without the transmission (the TCU is within the ECU), but it is not flashable or moddable in any way. Many people doing swaps go aftermarket.

I have the full service manual for the SC400 as .pdf, PM me if you want a copy.

If the display on your heater control panel has not bled, please don't trash it. Non-bled ones are rare and valuable!

Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist

IOwnCalculus posted:

Yeah, since it is still a single cam pushrod engine, VVT can only change the advance / retard of the cam as a whole relative to the crank. It helps, but it works better on engines where you get to vary the timing of the cams relative to each other as well.

That reminds me, don't the new Viper etc have true VVT? How the hell does that work?

literally a fish
Oct 2, 2014

German officer Johannes Bolter peeks out the hatch of his Tiger I heavy tank during a quiet moment before the Battle of Kursk - c:1943 (colorized)
Slippery Tilde

Enourmo posted:

That reminds me, don't the new Viper etc have true VVT? How the hell does that work?

It's loving witchcraft. The camshaft is in fact two shafts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uiDmcPEekc

it's called CamInCam and it's ABSURD. (And still not as good as proper DOHC VVT)

Edit: OH GOD THEY APPLIED IT TO A DOHC ENGINE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cpnv3lbagtg

literally a fish fucked around with this message at 08:27 on Jan 18, 2016

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


Raluek posted:

It's a flappy thing with a bimetal spring that restricts the exhaust when cold to build backpressure and force more exhaust into the intake manifold crossover to heat up the carb and intake faster.

I had a customer pull one off a 57 chevy and bring it in because he didn't know what it was and none of us could identify it until our resident old fart who grew up in maine took a look at it. Needless to say, we couldn't find a new one like he wanted. :v:

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Elmnt80 posted:

I had a customer pull one off a 57 chevy and bring it in because he didn't know what it was and none of us could identify it until our resident old fart who grew up in maine took a look at it. Needless to say, we couldn't find a new one like he wanted. :v:

Don't most classics have one? My Impala had one, which I removed when I put headers on, and my Ford still has it, although the PO seems to have welded it open.

Elephanthead
Sep 11, 2008


Toilet Rascal
Carburetor like to run at the temperature they are setup for. At least we don't have to manually advance timing anymore either. You kids don't know how easy you have it.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

literally a fish posted:

It's loving witchcraft. The camshaft is in fact two shafts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uiDmcPEekc

it's called CamInCam and it's ABSURD. (And still not as good as proper DOHC VVT)

Edit: OH GOD THEY APPLIED IT TO A DOHC ENGINE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cpnv3lbagtg

I laughed at the "clink" noises they added during the assembly animation.

That's actually an incredibly simple and clean way to get VVT out of a single cam setup. All you're really adding is inertial loads, which unless you had a hollow cam you had anyway. But yeah, it's usually an emissions thing, when Volvo added VVT it was in 1999, and until 2004 they didn't even use it in a truly variable condition. It was either snapped to one position for warmup and then snapped back for running. It allowed them to fully eliminate EGR and air injection systems.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

literally a fish posted:

It's loving witchcraft. The camshaft is in fact two shafts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0uiDmcPEekc

it's called CamInCam and it's ABSURD. (And still not as good as proper DOHC VVT)

Edit: OH GOD THEY APPLIED IT TO A DOHC ENGINE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cpnv3lbagtg

That's loving magical and I love it.

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer
I've been super busy lately with work related stuff and haven't had a ton of time to work on either project, so here's a tiny little update on the SC to keep this thread out of the archives like my first one. And everyone likes before and after pictures, right?

The first thing I want to do with the SC, like any previously owned car, is basically clean up the crap the previous owners have done. So I wanted to remove the nasty tint from the windows. It's a small first step, but an important one as I'd like to be able to see out the windows at the track.



I tried all the methods I read about online, from hair dryers to 409 spray, and nothing worked on 23 year old or so baked tint. So I just used razor blades. My fingers are a mess, but at least all the tint is gone.


You can't tell, but this is looking in the driver side window:



And after (with the door open):













You couldn't even see in before, and now you can perfectly see the basically trashed interior sans seats like it was new!



And the aftermath.



Next I'm going to rip out the interior and throw it all away since every single piece of trim, plastic, or foam has gouges or rips. Then I'll be pulling the sound deadening with dry ice and a hammer before starting on the engine bay. I'm setting aside the weekend in two weeks to pull the engine and transmission.

literally a fish
Oct 2, 2014

German officer Johannes Bolter peeks out the hatch of his Tiger I heavy tank during a quiet moment before the Battle of Kursk - c:1943 (colorized)
Slippery Tilde
Did you try a carpet steamer to get tint off? i find that works best, usually.

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer

literally a fish posted:

Did you try a carpet steamer to get tint off? i find that works best, usually.

I tried my girlfriend's clothes steamer but it just made the oily film on the inside of the windows even oilier. It's all good. My fingers have healed from the razor blades and the windows are clear.



Last weekend I started tearing down the interior. It was in such bad shape that the door panels were literally held on with bailing wire. They both basically fell off the car with a slight tug.



I need to fix the driver side interior door handle and the passenger side exterior. I can't get in from the passenger side, and I can't get out from the driver side.

Not a single interior panel or piece is sellable. Every single one has either a horrible stain, tear, or cigarette burn. I'm going to weigh each piece and then toss it all in the garbage.









Here is why the car smelled like the basement of a frat house. The last owner basically used her center console as an ashtray. (not pictured are the many dead spiders and bugs that I removed before thinking to take pictures).





And a nice surprise, which looks like the result of a trip to Jiffy Lube....

Driver side floor (good)


Passenger side floor (hosed)




I'll be hammering that down and welding after I remove the sound deadening and before the cage goes in.

Strange how high the gas tank is mounted in these cars. Eventually this will get replaced with a fuel cell where the indentation for the spare tire currently is.


And the growing pile of parts:



I still have to remove the stuff under the dash, as well as the countless pieces of early 90's tech controllers like the remote control door box, the power telescoping steering wheel (if I can), and whatever else I can get away with. I'm pretty sure at this point that I'm going to swap in the 4.8 and the T56 since I'm not finding any easy clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate solutions for the 1uz and T56 combo. I did find through research that a guy in Australia used 2005 GTO upper engine mounts matched with E36 lower isolators and a slightly modified 4th gen F-body driveshaft to bolt the LS/t56 into the Soarer chassis, so that's exciting. I already bought the GTO mounts for $50 off eBay and the other parts will come when I get to that stage.


I got a chance to talk with Cameron Moore at Formula Drift in Long Beach, who races an SC300. It was nice seeing how his cage, suspension, and knuckles are set up. He uses $1,000 BC coilovers which isn't too bad on price, and $2,000 Wisefab knuckles, which I'll be saving up for down the road.









Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.
Not sure if I mentioned it, but oven cleaner works wonders at removing tint residue. The rear glass on those cars is a bitch to reach over the parcel shelf, though. Enjoy!

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer
Yesterday I started working on removing the 1uz. Tomorrow a friend is coming over to help operate the hoist and give a hand actually pulling it out, so yesterday's goal was to get it all prepped.

I bought the car knowing the transmission would piss its oil everywhere, and as I tried removing the drain bolt I think I figured out why. It just spins and spins. The transmission supposedly works if there's enough fluid inside, so hopefully I can just retap the drain plug hole and sell it as a working transmission. Not that anyone wants to buy one of these anyway. The engine does work well, and is clean, so hopefully I can get a couple hundred bucks for it. Car people are cheap fuckers.

Here are some photos.


Thankfully I was able to access the top bolts on the driveshaft to remove it from the transmission. Everything went surprisingly smoothly. Not one stripped bolt or screw, and I didn't discover any unknown accident damage. The hood bolts have no marks on them, so that's definitely never been removed.



Engine bay stripped for removal:




The last things I need to do is unhook the coolant lines to the heater core and unplug some stuff on the back of the engine. I can't reach any of that stuff though, so that'll be for tomorrow.

Parts!


And Lexus' hydraulic cooling fan for the radiator. Glad to get that thing out, but I think I can reuse the radiator with the LS since the inlet and outlet are fairly close to the locations on the F-body water pump.



Bonus picture of a rotten macaroni infestation I found in the trunk. I have no idea how that could have happened unless the PO was driving around with open boxes of macaroni in the trunk. Ok, I guess that's exactly how it happened.


Anyone in SoCal want a running early 1uz? I'll give you a smoking deal.

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer
Pulled the engine yesterday. Now I get to deal with a bunch of assholes on Craigslist. No I will not "let you take it off my hands" for $50.









I found that the actual ATF leak is coming from here. The vertical black tube with the green tape contains a throttle cable that goes to the TRAC traction control box. It mounts to the transmission just to the right of the X-Men logo looking thing (servo cover?). If this gets fixed and the drain plug gets retapped, the transmission should be fine, in theory.




Next I'm degreasing this mess and removing AC and ABS lines, extra wiring, and whatever else I won't be needing. Thankfully it was super easy to pull the wiring harness out intact without a lot of work so I can sell the engine as a complete package with harness and ECUs.

Octopus Magic
Dec 19, 2003

I HATE EVERYTHING THAT YOU LIKE* AND I NEED TO BE SURE YOU ALL KNOW THAT EVERY TIME I POST

*unless it's a DSM in which case we cool ^_^
I cracked up at the macaroni pictures.

I also had the bad tint issues. I just gave up and bought a new rear hatch + glass.

GOOD LUCK

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.
Ugh gently caress you for being able to simply unbolt the exhaust. For me it's either 6 hours with various grinders, or a sawzall.

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer

ShittyPostmakerPro posted:

Ugh gently caress you for being able to simply unbolt the exhaust. For me it's either 6 hours with various grinders, or a sawzall.

I was surprised at how easily the engine came out. I could access the upper driveshaft bolts from the shifter hole, the exhaust bolts together in like 3 sections making it super easy, the wiring harness was easy to pull through the firewall with the connectors attached, the engine mounts had one bolt holding them to the chassis, etc. So far a really easy platform to work with.

A whole lot simpler than an AWD DSM at least.

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.
Yep, its a super easy engine pull. "Step 1: Remove engine" is the easiest method of fitting exhaust headers (have you seen the frame rail clearance on those cars? There is none!) or steering rack bushes. Getting the radiator out takes the longest for me, because you have to drain 3 lots of fluids and not get it all over your driveway. After that, it's probably less than an hour to pull the motor.

I replaced all my exhaust bolts for stainless. No regrets.

If you're selling the motor, be a gentleman and include the two ignitors (you left them on the drivers side fender, just aft of the fusebox and beside the suspension strut) and the MAF, otherwise you might as well saw the loom off and keep the ECU :p.

That cable going into the transmission controls the internal fluid pressure for the box, giving you harder shifts at more-open throttles.

Pomp and Circumcized fucked around with this message at 17:15 on May 20, 2016

BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer

ShittyPostmakerPro posted:

Yep, its a super easy engine pull. "Step 1: Remove engine" is the easiest method of fitting exhaust headers (have you seen the frame rail clearance on those cars? There is none!) or steering rack bushes. Getting the radiator out takes the longest for me, because you have to drain 3 lots of fluids and not get it all over your driveway. After that, it's probably less than an hour to pull the motor.

I replaced all my exhaust bolts for stainless. No regrets.

If you're selling the motor, be a gentleman and include the two ignitors (you left them on the drivers side fender, just aft of the fusebox and beside the suspension strut) and the MAF, otherwise you might as well saw the loom off and keep the ECU :p.

That cable going into the transmission controls the internal fluid pressure for the box, giving you harder shifts at more-open throttles.

I didn't realize those were ignitors. If there's anything else I need to include please let me know. There are like a dozen control modules under the dash and I don't know which ones need to go with the harness.

BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 22:03 on May 20, 2016

Pomp and Circumcized
Dec 23, 2006

If there's one thing I love more than GruntKilla420, it's the Queen! Also bacon.
None of those. The PS one controls the solenoid on the rack for lots/little pressure. The same for the fan one. The ABS unit isn't needed. If there's a TRC unit (if the car is TRC equipped), it doesn't need that either.

The only other 'component' is the fuel pump controller (actually a resistor pack) which drops the pump voltage to 7 (I think) volts when full pressure is not required. I wouldn't bother with it as it would mean cutting up the body harness, but it's good to know its there in case you want to re-use the stock fuel pump and wiring. It's located beneath one of the rear quarter windows (I guess the passenger side one? Your car is back to front!)

When I pull a 1UZ, I pull the loom and sit it on top, plug the ECU back into it, pull the ignitors and sit them on top (leave them plugged in as the plugs are brittle), and leave the MAF attached and plugged in. I guess you've already discovered the plug for the steering rack solenoid (usually by ripping it out!). That's it for electrical bits.

Fun fact about these cars, the gauge cluster processes the no.1 speed sensor signal and re-transmits it to the ECU. The ECU uses a second speed sensor, but uses the signal from the ECU as a reference to make sure that both sensors are working. In the case of a no.2 speed sensor failure, the ECU will use the no.1 sensor signal from the gauges sensor and throw a code (ECT62). So I guess the gauges are part of the engine system :psyduck:.

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BoostCreep
May 3, 2004

Might I ask where you keep your forced induction accessories?
Grimey Drawer

ShittyPostmakerPro posted:

Fun fact about these cars, the gauge cluster processes the no.1 speed sensor signal and re-transmits it to the ECU. The ECU uses a second speed sensor, but uses the signal from the ECU as a reference to make sure that both sensors are working. In the case of a no.2 speed sensor failure, the ECU will use the no.1 sensor signal from the gauges sensor and throw a code (ECT62). So I guess the gauges are part of the engine system :psyduck:.

So I have to sell the instrument cluster with the engine? Crap, I was planning on using the housing...



I made some small progress with the SC400 last week. I removed the dash and HVAC unit as well as the A/C lines in the engine bay. Next up is figuring out what wiring harnesses I no longer need and pulling everything out. I've never stripped a car to the point of just being a track car, so I'm not really even sure how much wiring I will need to retain. I do have a standalone harness for the LS engine, and will be converting to non-ABS brakes. All I think I really need working from the Lexus' wiring are the headlights, brake/taillights, and power windows (I think?). I assume then that I could remove pretty much all the rest of the wiring and probably even wire the lights separately to new switches on the dash if I have to.

Growing pile of engine bay parts that aren't necessarily part of the engine. I can probably sell the MAF with the engine and everything else will get trashed.


Interior with the crash bar removed. Next up is the HVAC unit:


Removed:


Here's the massive unit. I'm glad it all came out together:




I can't think of any reason to keep that stuff, so I'll probably hack it up and trash it. Unless there's some reason to hang on to an old heater core.

I don't know if anyone is into this kind of stuff, but I made a YouTube channel to document the progress of the build. I'm terrible on camera, but I'm documenting pretty much every second of the work I do to the car if anyone wants to follow along. I realize this opens me up to ridicule, but I figured I'd join the 21st century and film everything instead of just taking pictures.

Here's the first episode.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-F_A0RC6nw

I have 6 total online right now, with more on the way. This poo poo takes forever to edit.

I also recently closed down my office, which meant moving my Talon to my house. I now have all 5 cars parked at my house in the middle of Los Angeles along with my girlfriend's CX-3. As if it wasn't clear earlier, it's definitely time to downsize the fleet. Or buy a shed to clear enough space in the garage to fit the Lexus. Which is probably more likely.

Super dirty after sitting in a garage with a hole in the roof for two years:

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