|
Bolted the transmission pan back up, poured 2 quarts ( ) of fluid into it, and idled it 3 blocks down the road to this place that has shop cats and a great rep around town. Told him what happened and how and he agrees with the consensus here that it's the input shaft seal, so we'll see. He'll send pictures of what's going on, which is fun for me.
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2016 15:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 5, 2024 08:58 |
|
|
scuz posted:Bolted the transmission pan back up, poured 2 quarts ( Dude, that shop looks awesome. Fixed pricing, cats, and an awesome logo! I love their descriptions of their former loaner cars currently for sale.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2016 20:04
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Dude, that shop looks awesome. Fixed pricing, cats, and an awesome logo! I love their descriptions of their former loaner cars currently for sale.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2016 20:16
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:Dude, that shop looks awesome. Fixed pricing, cats, and an awesome logo! I love their descriptions of their former loaner cars currently for sale. I'd buy a car from that guy. That shop is awesome, I wish I could find one around here that is that good.
|
|
#
?
Jul 27, 2016 22:50
|
|
|
scuz posted:My dipstick reading skills are now suspect. You're checking it with engine running and transmission warm (and after shifting through the gears real quick), right? A trans that empty can look full on the dipstick if the engine isn't running.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 02:51
|
|
|
That website alone makes me want to take my car to them for stuff I don't want to do, and those are some downright good prices. Brake system flush for $30? gently caress doing it myself at that price. And it's something I've been meaning to do for the nearly 4 years that I've owned my car quote:Are there payment plans available? Honesty at its finest. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 04:32
|
|
|
quote:Diagnostics (super skills) $60 I wish I lived near a shop like this. I'd give them all my business because why the gently caress not? Their pricing is super-fair, they obviously have a sense of humor, and CATS! $434 for the "Full Deal" is a really good value on a newly-acquired used car, or for mom's car that she's ignored for a long time. Grumble, I have nothing but lovely options here...
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 15:15
|
|
|
Y'all should move here, we're real nice people  RIP Paul Walker posted:You're checking it with engine running and transmission warm (and after shifting through the gears real quick), right? A trans that empty can look full on the dipstick if the engine isn't running. Anyhoo, the shop came back with $722.49 all-in to replace the "Oil Pump Seal" in the transmission, so we're telling them to go for it. They recommended a full rebuild for $2,200 which comes with a two year warranty, but we only paid $2k for the van in the first place so v  v
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 16:18
|
|
|
scuz posted:Y'all should move here, we're real nice people This is true. Turbo Tim's isn't even the only good shop around either!
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 16:26
|
|
|
SCA Enthusiast posted:This is true. Turbo Tim's isn't even the only good shop around either!
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 16:33
|
|
|
That's awesome. I like Lloyd's Automotive too. A little pricey but they won't get you to do more than you need and will do what they ask you if you prove you know what you're talking about. (I did this by convincing them that yes, the SAAB stereo needs to be remarried to the ecu using tech2. They didn't believe me until they sent out a tech to try it.)
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 16:40
|
|
|
scuz posted:I wasn't aware of the shifting-through-the-gears bit, though. Super minor difference, it's just been mentioned in some of the instructions I've read.
|
|
#
?
Jul 28, 2016 22:47
|
|
|
Still waiting to hear from the shop; gonna stop by this evening on my way home from work, but in the meantime, bad idea, or BAD idea?
|
|
#
?
Jul 29, 2016 20:10
|
|
|
Yes.
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2016 01:14
|
|
|
scuz posted:Still waiting to hear from the shop; gonna stop by this evening on my way home from work, but in the meantime, bad idea, or BAD idea? I was going to joke about doing a W8 conversion but really an LS3 would probably be the more sane choice. Would probably take all three of those 
|
|
#
?
Jul 30, 2016 01:19
|
|
|
LudwEgg Van EggtoVAN is 5-by-5 again! Shifts wonderfully, runs really well, just survived our 2,339-mile tour and thanks to SouthsideSaint the rear brakes won't fail in a catastrophic fashion!  In FLOG news, SSS reminded of a DIY 2" lift kit that was pieced together by some dude on the forums over at tdiclub.com and I'm 100% absolutely doing that, perhaps sometime this weekend. I'll run it on its not-too-big tires for now, but a couple of pay days from now and I'll be able to afford some big knobby fuckers so that I can do oil changes without having to put the car on ramps  Ultimate Mango posted:I was going to joke about doing a W8 conversion but really an LS3 would probably be the more sane choice. Would probably take all three of those  Oh! And I have an interview at Turbo Tim's tonight with Turbo Tim himself! Wahoo extra money  <--we need a rewind version of that
scuz fucked around with this message at 20:08 on Aug 25, 2016 |
|
#
?
Aug 25, 2016 20:06
|
|
|
The girlfriend is out of town all weekend so it's time to WORK! ON! CARS! Checklist:
Piston rings shouldn't be as difficult as I had previously thought. My old plan was to remove the engine and do a keep-the-pistons rebuild of the thing, but dropping the oil pan, popping the head, and removing the bearing caps is much easier. The car in 100% working order (which it's not) in KBB is $900 so it's gonna be mine for a while so it better keep running.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2016 15:40
|
|
|
I would not extend the struts that way. First of all, you probably won't find hardware of the right strength, second, it may gently caress with how the bumpstop works out and result in you ramming the coupling nuts into the strut seals and/or the strut pistons into the bottom of the struts, neither of which is very good for them. Second, the strut shaft is the only thing that keeps your front wheels vertical and at the appropriate camber, if it comes loose or breaks for any reason, calling the failure catastrophic is being generous. What's your plan on getting the new rings to seat? Rehoning the bores and hopefully cleaning the debris off the crank, bores, and crankcase area, or just slam new rings in and cross your fingers they seat without any assistance?
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2016 20:36
|
|
|
Thanks for chiming in. The DIY guide posted seems to be the least un-safe way to lift the thing and since I don't plan on doing any off-roading in this bad boy, I think losing a bit of travel won't be catastrophic. I'm mostly doing this cuz a.) it looks loving awesome, 2.) snow is a few months away and I'd like to get the bugs worked out beforehand, and iii.) the maniacs around here have run me off the road a few times and being able to shrug at curbs is super fun. As far as seating, I've never done anything like this before, so I didn't really have a plan. If I had to clean a whole bunch of build-up out of the cylinders, I suppose I'd hone out the cylinders after covering up the crankshaft as best I can, clean stuff up a bunch, re-oil and install everything, goose the sucker at high-ish revs for a half hour drive or so, then change the oil again.
|
|
#
?
Sep 6, 2016 21:17
|
|
|
I've been agonizing over this for days, but I'm pretty sure the size I'm going with for the new tires will be 215/75/15. That'll give me an additional 1.8" of lift, is only .8" wider than the tires I have now, and that'll keep me from having to trim so much off of the body that I start cutting floorboards. I plan on cutting SOME of the body off, but not all of it. I've also amended my to-do list this weekend to simply lifting the car. I'll have to schedule some other time to pop the pistons outta this bad boy, and having it ~3" higher off the ground than it currently is will certainly help that. Got an email from Turbo Tim today saying that he hadn't forgotten about me! That's nice to know. He said that once it gets colder he'll get me in the garage and start fixing some cars so it sounds like I'm in!
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2016 22:48
|
|
|
That's the same size my F-150 came with. 
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2016 06:57
|
|
|
 It's gonna be great. Measured clearances all around the tires last night and the 215/75/15 size will fit with just a smidgen of wiggle room.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2016 14:58
|
|
|
scuz posted:
Post some pics man! I can't wait to see. But those are pretty dang big tires (I have 235/75/15 on our Explorer)
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2016 16:15
|
|
|
Haha, once I have pics worth posting, I'll throw em up. My IT boss said he's gonna come help out with the lift, so awaaaay we go!
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2016 16:48
|
|
|
scuz posted:215/75/15  scuz's power steering pump
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2016 16:50
|
|
|
Someone talk me out of these: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/wto/5761184070.html Nexen seems to get decent reviews, never heard of them, but when they were new they had the 40k-mile warranty. Eden Prairie is a sort of affluent suburb so I'm thinking someone bought these for their F-150 or something and decided they didn't like em?
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2016 17:33
|
|
|
scuz posted:Someone talk me out of these: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/wto/5761184070.html Nexen seems to get decent reviews, never heard of them, but when they were new they had the 40k-mile warranty. Eden Prairie is a sort of affluent suburb so I'm thinking someone bought these for their F-150 or something and decided they didn't like em? I mean that is a cheap set of tires if the tread is really 10/32 but you can get a new set for $100 more in a different brand probably
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2016 17:46
|
|
|
everdave posted:I mean that is a cheap set of tires if the tread is really 10/32 but you can get a new set for $100 more in a different brand probably Exactly this. That's not a great price for some off brand China tire. They also have some weird camber wear. 300 will get you some ok new tires.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2016 18:22
|
|
|
scuz posted:
You're taking tire/wheel uptravel into account here, right? Ride height and where the tire goes at full-bump are gonna be pretty different, and that's a lot of tire for a passenger car...
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2016 18:28
|
|
|
everdave posted:I mean that is a cheap set of tires if the tread is really 10/32 but you can get a new set for $100 more in a different brand probably SouthsideSaint posted:Exactly this. That's not a great price for some off brand China tire. They also have some weird camber wear. 300 will get you some ok new tires. kastein posted:You're taking tire/wheel uptravel into account here, right? Ride height and where the tire goes at full-bump are gonna be pretty different, and that's a lot of tire for a passenger car...
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2016 18:43
|
|
|
kastein posted:You're taking tire/wheel uptravel into account here, right? Ride height and where the tire goes at full-bump are gonna be pretty different, and that's a lot of tire for a passenger car... I had a 86 Blazer with tires that filled it out really nice after a 2 inch lift but they would rub if you were turning and going through a dip
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2016 18:44
|
|
|
Guys, I did stuff and it was awesome:   Turns out it's not easy to get your hands on 4"-to-2" hex bushings so I didn't do any lifting of the rear, but also turns out that the rear and front are sitting level  Front:  Rear:  Weird! But fine. It's fine. Was planning on building the flat bed but not without lifting the rear since it'll definitely lose some height once more weight gets added back there. If the rear seat were still in the back this would probably look different. I've done 3 full suspension jobs on VWs and never had an impact driver. This time, my boss came over and loaned me his and holy poo poo is SO MUCH EASIER. IT'S SO EASY. HOLY poo poo. I fixed up my air compressor so next purchase for me is absolutely an impact driver. Oh my god, it's life-changing. It's like cheating, it's so easy. The HF thunderblergber is still the best cheap one, right? Not-so-good news is the sway bar is currently out of commission since one of the bolts lost its starting threads  I disconnected the other side cuz I thought "oh no reasons" but that just made the sway bar rest on the drive shafts and make an awful grinding noise as I drove around! I put the other bolt back in so at least it's off of the drive shafts but I'll still need another one. This seems kinda spendy for one non-critical bolt so I'm gonna keep lookin' around. Next step: lifting the rear and building my flatbed!
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2016 03:37
|
|
|
Looks like you are using a close nipple - any reason you didn't just use a small length of pipe (you'd have to cut it square etc of course)? There shouldn't be a reason why you need the threads, right? Were you just worried about the length?
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2016 03:55
|
|
|
Timmy Cruise posted:Looks like you are using a close nipple - any reason you didn't just use a small length of pipe (you'd have to cut it square etc of course)? There shouldn't be a reason why you need the threads, right? Were you just worried about the length?
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2016 04:00
|
|
|
Dude I wish you nothing but the best and fully support this true AI but those tires gonna rub man
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2016 04:21
|
|
|
I have an angle grinder! 
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2016 04:44
|
|
|
scuz posted:I have an angle grinder! Godspeed!
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2016 04:58
|
|
|
Just take the bolt to somewhere that sells metric fasteners and find a good match. I think the last time I did an Audi product of the same era it was M8x1.25. You could always try "order a bunch of poo poo from belmetric and see what fits," which is a method I've used in the past that at the very least results in my spare parts bolt bin getting filled with future rear end-savers.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2016 05:26
|
|
|
I'll just pop by a hardware store on my way home from work, that seems like it'll be okay. The store where I used to work has M8x1.25 in stock so they'll at least have something similar in size. While re-inserting the driver's side bolt on the sway bar link and cursing myself upon observing the damage done to the half-shaft I smelled oil in the air below the engine. Perhaps I should bump up the piston re-ringing time table.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2016 16:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 5, 2024 08:58 |
|
|
I like where this is going.
|
|
#
?
Sep 12, 2016 16:54
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
