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Zhentar
Sep 28, 2003

Brilliant Master Genius

chedemefedeme posted:

Humor me this, though. Last night it got down to maybe 70 outside. My wifi thermostat's stats show it ran 30 to 40 minutes of every hour to maintain 85 degrees...is that still normal?

The hot has to come from somewhere. If it's not from outside, and it's not from the sun, then where?

I'd bet that your electricity bill is expensive because of the thing that's making the hot. Probably either computer equipment or electric baseboards.

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chedemefedeme
May 25, 2007

Until then I need your help
figuring out the logistics!

Zhentar posted:

The hot has to come from somewhere. If it's not from outside, and it's not from the sun, then where?

I'd bet that your electricity bill is expensive because of the thing that's making the hot. Probably either computer equipment or electric baseboards.

We're big fans of those electric baseboards in Texas :)

There are a few computers inside but nowhere near enough to be making any crazy heat. I'm sure the warehouse retains some daytime heating but I can go in there in the evenings and it's perhaps 80 or 85 in the warehouse.


I was simply trying to ask if the system needs to be checked. 50% duty cycle to maintain 85 degrees inside when it is dark out can't be normal?

literally a fish
Oct 2, 2014

German officer Johannes Bolter peeks out the hatch of his Tiger I heavy tank during a quiet moment before the Battle of Kursk - c:1943 (colorized)
Slippery Tilde

chedemefedeme posted:

It's a private office with only 3 desks, one door to the outside world, and no windows. It's literally a 900sqft wood and sheetrock (w/ fiberglass insulation) office built inside of a 24ft high warehouse space, the remaining 2000sqft of which is the high ceiling warehouse. The "outside" unit is on the true roof, not inside the warehouse.

Zhentar posted:

The hot has to come from somewhere. If it's not from outside, and it's not from the sun, then where?

What sort of climate control setup does the warehouse have, if any?

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

chedemefedeme posted:

I was simply trying to ask if the system needs to be checked. 50% duty cycle to maintain 85 degrees inside when it is dark out can't be normal?
Could you measure the air temperature while it's running, at the return and at a couple supply vents, say the one closest and the one farthest away from the air handler?

chedemefedeme
May 25, 2007

Until then I need your help
figuring out the logistics!

literally a fish posted:

What sort of climate control setup does the warehouse have, if any?

None, but is surrounded on 3 sides by other tenants, has insulated partitions between tenants and an insulated ceiling, and its only exterior wall faces east. I honestly thought we might have to add something in there for it to be bearable in the summer but it has yet to meet or exceed outside temps even on the hottest day, which has been nice. I can't imagine it's cheap to condition 2000sqft of 24ft high warehouse.

angryrobots posted:

Could you measure the air temperature while it's running, at the return and at a couple supply vents, say the one closest and the one farthest away from the air handler?

I've seen HVAC guys with those really fast refreshing thermomoter probe things. I unfortunately can't think of anything I own that has this capability. I have an analogue meat thermometer I'd have to duck tape to the vent for 20 minutes to get a reading? :D



What is a reasonable price to pay for having this system checked over by someone independent of the landlord? I don't mind putting some money into it if it's gonna save me paying to run it 18 hours a day just to maintain fairly modest setpoints in such a small space. I ask because I feel like the guys I've hired in the past when the system at my house broke charged me well more than was reasonable just for the initial visit. Don't want to get ripped off again.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

I'd just call around and see what a service call costs, although they may sell a "tune- up" special, which usually includes cleaning the coils and some other stuff.

Cost is very dependent on area, but I think a service call is gonna be about $100.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

JimbobDobalina posted:

The arsehole previous owner of my house had an ac installed some years ago, and left the drain pipe coming out underneath the floor of an outbuilding, consequently rotting out the floor structure from having untreated wood sitting in standing water. I've torn down the lovely outbuilding, and am planning on building a concrete patio area in its place. Right now, the drain is dripping onto the dirt where the building was, and there is enough water coming out to leave a 2 sq ft puddle by the end of the day. I don't really want this much water dripping onto the concrete I plan to lay, but my yard is also sloped such that the outlet would be below ground level if I was to extend it out beyond the pad.
Any ideas for a better drain?
I don't really want to relocate it completely because the side of my house where it is now will be pretty well all patio, and the other side is a no go because of the grade.

Some ideas:
Do you have a floor drain to run it to instead?

Would it be possible to turn the corner outside and follow the wall?

Are you going to pave everything? Could you leave a spot for a garden? Another idea is that you could leave a outdoor floor drain there and run the exit somewhere down slope, maybe even hook into a downspout that is close.

JimbobDobalina
Aug 29, 2005

I will munch on your endocrine system

kid sinister posted:

Some ideas:
Do you have a floor drain to run it to instead?

Would it be possible to turn the corner outside and follow the wall?

Are you going to pave everything? Could you leave a spot for a garden? Another idea is that you could leave a outdoor floor drain there and run the exit somewhere down slope, maybe even hook into a downspout that is close.

No floor drain, house is elevated off the ground, and tying into existing plumbing wouldn't be possible without a pump and lots of visible piping to get to the laundry drain. I'd rather drop it outside. I thought about a couple of potted plants, but the whole area is in perpetual shade, so I think the plants would become waterlogged very quickly.

I could turn the pipe and go along the house, but I think I'd only get about 8 feet before it would hit the patio while still keeping enough of a slope.

I am wondering if burying a dry well underneath the concrete pad is a reasonable solution? I'd only use it for the condensate to keep the volume of water to drain to a minimum. If I am laying plastic under the concrete anyway, would this moisture be an issue?
I've noticed that when it's cooler and the ac isn't running hard, the puddle drains away in about a day. I can put a bucket down and measure the outflow if that's helpful.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

You definitely do not want to bury an inaccessible drain field and condensate line under the pad....I think that would make you an rear end in a top hat previous owner, lol.

Whatever you do, the end of the line needs to be accessible for clean out.

chedemefedeme
May 25, 2007

Until then I need your help
figuring out the logistics!

angryrobots posted:

I'd just call around and see what a service call costs, although they may sell a "tune- up" special, which usually includes cleaning the coils and some other stuff.

Cost is very dependent on area, but I think a service call is gonna be about $100.

My luck in life.... Guy came out today from a local AC company. Got half way up the 24ft warehouse roof ladder, said "No way, can't pay me enough to climb this" and left without charging us. Said he would call us back with a referral for someone else. Never did. You'd think an AC guy would have been on a few roofs in his day? The ladder is a month old, made of aluminum with nice grooved footholds, very sturdy, and I've climbed it with all manner of crap in my arms and strapped to me. Of all the janky ladders and ceilings I've worked around in my career this is about as safe as you can get without having a staircase right to the friggin roof.

Unit couldn't maintain 80 degrees today. Something is deff going wrong. Guess I'll try the next number in the phone book tomorrow.

Zhentar
Sep 28, 2003

Brilliant Master Genius

chedemefedeme posted:

I was simply trying to ask if the system needs to be checked. 50% duty cycle to maintain 85 degrees inside when it is dark out can't be normal?

My point was that if nothing is hotter than 85 degrees, you should have a 0% duty cycle.

literally a fish
Oct 2, 2014

German officer Johannes Bolter peeks out the hatch of his Tiger I heavy tank during a quiet moment before the Battle of Kursk - c:1943 (colorized)
Slippery Tilde
Not quite true, the computers etc will generate a small amount of heat, but it definitely shouldn't be enough for a duty cycle like that.

I'd be checking the coils on the inside unit and making sure they're clean (buy a can of coil cleaner if not), and then getting an AC tech to check if it's low on refrigerant amongst other things.

The way to prevent yourself getting hosed over is pretty simple, also - just don't let them talk you into anything expensive without a 2nd opinion.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

It would be some poo poo if he actually did land the strip heat 24v wire wrong on the tstat and it's been running this whole time.

JimbobDobalina
Aug 29, 2005

I will munch on your endocrine system

angryrobots posted:

You definitely do not want to bury an inaccessible drain field and condensate line under the pad....I think that would make you an rear end in a top hat previous owner, lol.

Whatever you do, the end of the line needs to be accessible for clean out.

Good point. I'll drop the pipe into a couple of potted plants for now, and if they get waterlogged I'll have to come up with a better plan. How far away from the edge of a concrete pad is it ok to have the drain so that the moisture doesn't damage the concrete?

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

JimbobDobalina posted:

Good point. I'll drop the pipe into a couple of potted plants for now, and if they get waterlogged I'll have to come up with a better plan. How far away from the edge of a concrete pad is it ok to have the drain so that the moisture doesn't damage the concrete?
Just a thought, how about dropping the drain into a decorative rain barrel, and using the collected water to water said plants? Or if it fills up, use a hose to empty out away from your concrete pad?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

JimbobDobalina posted:

Good point. I'll drop the pipe into a couple of potted plants for now, and if they get waterlogged I'll have to come up with a better plan. How far away from the edge of a concrete pad is it ok to have the drain so that the moisture doesn't damage the concrete?

Potted plants are not a permanent solution. The next owner could get rid of them then wonder why there's a puddle there. Either leave a hole in your concrete pad for a garden there (nothing outrageous, maybe 2'x2') or put in an outdoor drain.

Water does the most damage to concrete when it freezes. Do you normally run your AC during the winter?

Also, what's making you use the existing exit from your house? Could you move the hole somewhere else?

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Jul 20, 2016

JimbobDobalina
Aug 29, 2005

I will munch on your endocrine system

kid sinister posted:

Potted plants are not a permanent solution. The next owner could get rid of them then wonder why there's a puddle there. Either leave a hole in your concrete pad for a garden there (nothing outrageous, maybe 2'x2') or put in an outdoor drain.

Water does the most damage to concrete when it freezes. Do you normally run your AC during the winter?

Also, what's making you use the existing exit from your house? Could you move the hole somewhere else?

I don't run the ac in the winter, but in the fall and early spring here it can freeze overnight but get hot enough during the day that I will run the ac.
I'd like to move the drain elsewhere, but I have very limited access in the crawlspace near the furnace.

Once I pour the concrete pad, I'll be seeding a grass area to one side that I might be able to get the drain to. The drain is about 10 inches above ground level now, and I'd need about another 15-18 feet of horizontal pipe to get there. How much vertical drop is necessary per 10 feet of travel?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Be glad you don't work in China.

https://i.imgur.com/o0E3Xoi.gifv

DreadLlama
Jul 15, 2005
Not just for breakfast anymore
Have any of you thoughts or experience with absorption cycle air conditioning?

Chillbro Baggins
Oct 8, 2004
Bad Angus! Bad!

ExplodingSims posted:

Are you sure you have R22? That suction pressure seems fine for 22, but the head pressure is way too low for it to be 90* outside.
Did it stay that consistent the whole time?


If it froze up once and only once it may have just been stuck running for way too long. Or you had a plugged filter or something.
But yeah, if it keeps happening something's wrong. Also, pro-tip for next time, just turn the blower on and let it run. That'll defrost it waaaaaay faster than a lightbulb ever will.

The filter needed a washing, yeah (we smoke and are lazy about filter wash/change intervals). And It was fan on + lightbulb, while we sweated.

Chillbro Baggins
Oct 8, 2004
Bad Angus! Bad!

rdb posted:

When I purged the lines it did not smell of propane. I think it's still R22.
Propane doesn't naturally have a smell, the stink is added and is mostly skunk-ish mercaptans, because the schoolhouse in the town next door to my city just fuckin' leaped off its foundation and killed a whole lot of kids, due to a leak in a natural gas line, back when gas was tapped off the oil wells as a waste product, and tapped off of that line for heating purposes. There was a leak, the shop class' saw made a spark when turned on, BOOM.

Edit: You know it's bad when ADOLPH GODDAMN HITLER sends a telegram expressing his condolences.

Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Jul 26, 2016

Zhentar
Sep 28, 2003

Brilliant Master Genius

DreadLlama posted:

Have any of you thoughts or experience with absorption cycle air conditioning?

Absorption cycle refrigeration is poo poo. If you're thinking you want to use solar thermal for air conditioning, forget about it. It's become far more cost effective to use PV with vapor compression refrigeration. If you've got an industrial process with a lot of waste heat, it can be worth your time.

Delivery McGee posted:

Propane doesn't naturally have a smell, the stink is added and is mostly skunk-ish mercaptans, because the schoolhouse in the town next door to my city just fuckin' leaped off its foundation and killed a whole lot of kids, due to a leak in a natural gas line, back when gas was tapped off the oil wells as a waste product, and tapped off of that line for heating purposes. There was a leak, the shop class' saw made a spark when turned on, BOOM.

My parents worked with someone (in the oil & gas industry) who got an entire city block evacuated by forgetting about a canister of thiol in the trunk of his car :laugh:

Chillbro Baggins
Oct 8, 2004
Bad Angus! Bad!

Zhentar posted:

Absorption cycle refrigeration is poo poo. If you're thinking you want to use solar thermal for air conditioning, forget about it. It's become far more cost effective to use PV with vapor compression refrigeration. If you've got an industrial process with a lot of waste heat, it can be worth your time.


My parents worked with someone (in the oil & gas industry) who got an entire city block evacuated by forgetting about a canister of thiol in the trunk of his car :laugh:

lol yeah that happens every other year around here, oopsie with a can of concentrated skunk getting loose and causing a panic.

OTOH, there's a sign on my road saying "DANGER POISON GAS" bc there's oil wells and it's a low spot and sulfur dioxide happens.

Edit: SO2 is the smell of rotten eggs, so easy enough to avoid.

Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Jul 26, 2016

kmcormick9
Feb 2, 2004
Magenta Alert
I have a goodman heat pump for my upstairs in my 2 year old house that I decided to put a nest on. Brilliantly I decided t do this on the hottest day of the year. Since it was so hot, I did it very quickly, like 10 minute swap.
I triple checked everything before putting power back to it, even though some of the terminals on the old thermostat didn't match the new one (Y on Y1, E on *).
I went through the setup and fired it back up.... nothing.
My first thought was that E wire. I told the nest it was emergency heat, even though it also has aux heat. I have a whole house humidifier hooked up to the downstairs unit, but it seems to have a manual control, and why would the upstairs thermostat control parts of the downstairs unit?
During my troubleshooting, I noticed that I had initially flipped the one of the wrong breakers due to interesting wiring choices by the builder (air handler on the same breaker as attic lights?).
I tried changing settings on the nest to see if it would kick in, but never did. After resetting everything, the compressor would come on for about 3 minutes and then shut off. Finally I went and felt the registers and felt the slightest breeze from them. A piece of paper would stick to the return. I left it running like that to see if it would cool down any. The wife and I spent the night in our basement bedroom while the upstairs heated to 86°.
Today I started by checking fuses only to find that there are no fuses in the outside shutoff box.
Googling said that the short compressor run times could be a blown capacitor, so I got a new one using the specs in the manual. When I got home with the new cap in hand, I see that the old one is twice the size and shows no external signs of failure so I held off on replacing that.
Next my attention turned to the contactor. With the contact depressed, the compressor will run for as long as it is pushed in, and shut off immediately on release.
I decided to see if the pressure switches are tripped to see that my unit uses switches that don't appear to have a manual reset. Do they reset over time? Do I push the whole switch against the pipe to reset? To test this, I cut the system to off and left it for a few hours(it had been running in one way or another with few breaks for 18 hours). When I cut it back on, the air seemed to blow harder and cooler. SUCCESS! I left it to run for a half hour to start cooling down the upstairs. I come back to check and it's 1 degree warmer than it was! I run down and check the compressor and it's off.
I'm at my wits end.

ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


Sounds like something is up with the stat. It's not calling for cooling like it should.
First of all, lets make sure you have the wire set up properly:

Red on RC (Hot 24V)
Yellow on Y1 (Compressor)
Orange on O/B (Reversing Valve)
Green on G (Blower Motor)
Blue on C (Common)
White on W1 (Aux Heat)

(* Colors may vary, consult the terminal strip in the air handler for correct color codes)

Are you sure you set it up properly when you ran through the initial setup?
Now the blower motor runs all the time correct?


As far as your other questions go:
Cap: If it's totally blown, the compressor usually won't run at all. You'll get a few hums and that'll be it.
Pressure switch: Yeah, they have internal resets. Once the system drops below the set point, it'll close again.

kmcormick9
Feb 2, 2004
Magenta Alert
Red has been on both rc and rh. The nest manual implies it doesn't matter. It is currently on rh. White is on W2 like the original thermo. Try moving it? There was no blue on the original. The black from E is on *.

ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


How many wires do yo have, and what terminals are they landed on?

literally a fish
Oct 2, 2014

German officer Johannes Bolter peeks out the hatch of his Tiger I heavy tank during a quiet moment before the Battle of Kursk - c:1943 (colorized)
Slippery Tilde

ExplodingSims posted:

How many wires do yo have, and what terminals are they landed on?

This. Also, a photo of the wires where they connect into the AC unit itself would be useful (so we can see the unit's labels for things)

Chances are that black wire needs to be hooked up to the C terminal, if you have nothing hooked up there. Black wire marked "E" sounds like "Earth" to me aka C/common.

kmcormick9
Feb 2, 2004
Magenta Alert

Before. I completely forgot to mention that switching back to this thermostat did not start the ac either. Of course I only tried this early on during the window that one or both pressure switches may have still been tripped.




I won't be home again until Friday to take a picture of the air handler

literally a fish
Oct 2, 2014

German officer Johannes Bolter peeks out the hatch of his Tiger I heavy tank during a quiet moment before the Battle of Kursk - c:1943 (colorized)
Slippery Tilde

kmcormick9 posted:


Before. I completely forgot to mention that switching back to this thermostat did not start the ac either. Of course I only tried this early on during the window that one or both pressure switches may have still been tripped.

I won't be home again until Friday to take a picture of the air handler

If switching the thermostat back didn't fix it then chances are it's not the thermostat's fault, pressure switches notwithstanding :v:

I can't confirm without a pic of the wires at the other end, but I'd wager that black wire needs to be hooked up to the C terminal on the Nest. That, or you need an add-a-wire kit since you don't have a C wire and you really need one for a Nest to work properly.

literally a fish fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Jul 28, 2016

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe

literally a fish posted:

If switching the thermostat back didn't fix it then chances are it's not the thermostat's fault, pressure switches notwithstanding :v:

I'd wager that black wire needs to be hooked up to the C terminal on the Nest.


E is usually Emergency Heat, which the nest seems to have detected properly.

literally a fish
Oct 2, 2014

German officer Johannes Bolter peeks out the hatch of his Tiger I heavy tank during a quiet moment before the Battle of Kursk - c:1943 (colorized)
Slippery Tilde

Qwijib0 posted:

E is usually Emergency Heat, which the nest seems to have detected properly.

I'll take your word for it as I am by no means an expert.

AFAIK just a few pages ago we had a big long discussion where everyone concluded that Nests need a C to work properly even though they claim they don't (as their parasite-power function can confuse and disorient many HVAC units) so perhaps an add-a-wire kit is necessary.

Before spending money though it's probably also a good idea to hook the old thermostat back up just to make sure everything still works (without pressure switches getting in the way) and that nothing's blown up :v:

rdb
Jul 8, 2002
chicken mctesticles?
I am pretty sure that your R wire should be on Rh and not Rc.

Edit: also my 2nd generation nest has worked fine for a long time without the c wire.

rdb fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Jul 28, 2016

ExplodingSims
Aug 17, 2010

RAGDOLL
FLIPPIN IN A MOVIE
HOT DAMN
THINK I MADE A POOPIE


No, Rc is correct for cooling.

RH is what you hook up to when you have another heating system, like a gas furnace wired into the system.

But if the u it was working fine up until he changed the stat, It's pretty much has be be a wiring issue or a programming issue

kmcormick9
Feb 2, 2004
Magenta Alert

Qwijib0 posted:

E is usually Emergency Heat, which the nest seems to have detected properly.

The nest asked what the * was and since it was on the E previously, I told it that it was emergency heat, which I am still skeptical of since it also has aux heat.

Teketeketeketeke
Mar 11, 2007


Hello HVAC thread!

- I have a single-stage heat & A/C system.
- I'm currently running a basic programmable thermostat hooked up to four wires (R, W, G, Y)
- I'd like to be able to use a fancier thermostat by gaining a "C" wire to run MOAR POWER.

My Options:

1. I suppose I could buy one of the Venstar Add-a-wire sort of deals, to free up a wire for C
(a la https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Wire-Accessory-Thermostats/dp/B01IF3QXMC)

2. I read that you can also do this:
- At the furnace, remove the wire from G terminal, connect the wire to C
- At the furnace, use a jumper to bridge Y to G
- At the thermostat, remove the wire from the G terminal, and connect it to C
*** This would, of course, remove the "FAN ON" option, but retain the ""AUTO FAN" option. I would never force-on the fan anyway, so I don't care.

Two questions:
First, is option 2 valid? Or could this somehow gently caress up my furnace board or something?
Second, if option 2 is legit, how would I go about wiring this? Here's a pic of my setup

Would I simply jumper Y terminal to G terminal (leading to a weird threesome situation @Y), then connect the originally-G wire to C?

Teketeketeketeke fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Jul 28, 2016

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

If by "fancier thermostat" you mean something like a Nest they can be programmed to use "air wave" (or whatever nest calls it) to circulate air on occasion between calls for cooling (possibly heat, I don't recall). Seems to work very well in my office during cooling season.

For this to work, you'd need the discrete fan wire.

Teketeketeketeke
Mar 11, 2007


Eh, not that fancy...
I mean more like a backlit programmable thermostat. I actually have it already, but it's running on batteries (the light comes on when any button is pressed, but this adds an unnecessary press any time you want to use it). Always-on lighting would require a C wire.
No need for the blower ever running without heat or A/C going...

e: actually, my thermostat may not even be able to do that...lol
Looks like I have to deal with unnecessary button presses all day err day.

Teketeketeketeke fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Jul 28, 2016

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe

Teketeketeketeke posted:

Hello HVAC thread!

- I have a single-stage heat & A/C system.
- I'm currently running a basic programmable thermostat hooked up to four wires (R, W, G, Y)
- I'd like to be able to use a fancier thermostat by gaining a "C" wire to run MOAR POWER.

My Options:

1. I suppose I could buy one of the Venstar Add-a-wire sort of deals, to free up a wire for C
(a la https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Wire-Accessory-Thermostats/dp/B01IF3QXMC)

2. I read that you can also do this:
- At the furnace, remove the wire from G terminal, connect the wire to C
- At the furnace, use a jumper to bridge Y to G
- At the thermostat, remove the wire from the G terminal, and connect it to C
*** This would, of course, remove the "FAN ON" option, but retain the ""AUTO FAN" option. I would never force-on the fan anyway, so I don't care.

Two questions:
First, is option 2 valid? Or could this somehow gently caress up my furnace board or something?
Second, if option 2 is legit, how would I go about wiring this? Here's a pic of my setup

Would I simply jumper Y terminal to G terminal (leading to a weird threesome situation @Y), then connect the originally-G wire to C?

Second option is theoretically legit if you don't care about fan-- thermostats just bridge the right wires to R to trigger a relay on the furnace board.

Normally on a "Fan" call, the thermostat will bridge R - G to trigger the fan
on a "Cool" call , R - G is bridged to turn on the fan and R - Y is bridged to turn on the compressor. By bridging Y - G at the furnace, once the thermostat bridges R - Y, R - G is also bridged.

Most furnaces automatically run the fan on a "Heat" call R - W, so you don't need the separate fan trigger.

Although if it was me, I'd just use the add-a-wire since $30 is cheap compared to a new board or service call if the jumper does something weird.

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rdb
Jul 8, 2002
chicken mctesticles?

ExplodingSims posted:

No, Rc is correct for cooling.

RH is what you hook up to when you have another heating system, like a gas furnace wired into the system.

But if the u it was working fine up until he changed the stat, It's pretty much has be be a wiring issue or a programming issue

My bad. I was thinking since he had both Auxiliary heat and emergency heat that it was a dual fuel type system. Although I don't know where you would put heat strips in a furnace.

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