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His Divine Shadow posted:Also cars have too much power nowadays too. And are too large by far. You can never have too much power. (they are too big though)
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Mar 8, 2024 16:36
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So found out the custom comfort brand is just a rebadged Midea Xtreme Heat. No internal component changes such as the ones Carriers have.
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Mar 8, 2024 18:30
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If a oil boiler is currently heating the basement where the water pipes are and I have the system changed out the heat pumps does the basement need heating? I've had some conflicting answers on this but I would rather not have pipes burst again.
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Mar 9, 2024 16:41
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The answer is "it depends" so you will never get a definitive answer on it. Does it freeze where you live, how deep does it freeze, how exposed are the pipes, how insulated is the basement. You could do other things like put heat tape and insulation on the water pipes, or install an electric heater for the basement.
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Mar 9, 2024 17:06
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If they've burst in the past it sounds like the basement needs heating (and perhaps better insulation) and the heat pump won't heat a space anywhere like an oil burner does (man they are sweet in that way, had a shower in the boiler room once, it was always so warm and nice). I think I would have radiators installed and let the heat pump heat the basement that way.
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Mar 9, 2024 19:17
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Internet Explorer posted:I'm trying to figure out if I can install a radon fan where the pipe is exposed not in the attic, but two floors down. So roof, attic, then a floor, then a floor with the exposed pipe. It goes straight vertical. I know that static pressure is involved, but I have no idea how to calculate it and I can't find any rule of thumb guidelines for install instructions that cover it. I know that suction also plays a factor, but I believe we're good there and that head pressure is my main concern. I'm thinking about just trying to install a Rn 4EC-4, which let's me dial it in a bit, but figured I'd ask here first. I think they're usually done in the attic because it's easy and out of sight. We had a system put entirely on the outside of the house, and the fan is only about 3ft off the ground. That's actually the usual setup around here.
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Mar 10, 2024 16:07
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The fan and everything past the fan has to be in non-living space because a crack or bad seal before the fan will simply suck in air, but past the fan a crack will spew radon-rich air.
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Mar 10, 2024 16:34
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Both good points. Hmm, guess I'm crawling around in the attic with blown insulation. 
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Mar 10, 2024 16:37
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I mean the code is what I said, but to put on my Gary hat... radon ain't carbon monoxide. If you are borderline on radon without mitigation and keep a monitor going, I wouldn't feel at all bad about putting the fan in an easier to access spot. I would just be sure to have a professional reinstall it before selling the house.
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Mar 10, 2024 16:57
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Yeah, I might as well just do it right. It's borderline, usually under 4, but when it snows and the temp drops to close to 0 it shoots up to around 8-10. My problem is I'm happy to pay someone to do things, but we're in the sticks so it's hard to find someone to do it. I think there's a Radon specialist who has been doing work out this way that people seem to like. Just not sure if he's the "crawl in the attic" type. Also I'd hate for someone to get all the way over there just to find out there's no outlet. Thanks thread.
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Mar 10, 2024 17:04
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If it starts venting into the house just rent it out - https://radonmine.com/
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Mar 10, 2024 17:43
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devicenull posted:If it starts venting into the house just rent it out - https://radonmine.com/  quote:In Montana, at the Free Enterprise Radon Health Mine, radon therapy takes place in the underground “gallery” or at surface in the “radon room” – or a combination of both. The difference is only that which is most comfortable to the individual. Testing confirms radon levels averaging about 1700 pC/l of air – with normal fluctuations ranging from 700 to 2200 pC/l of air. Exposure to radon is perfectly safe at just twice the amount of natural background radiation one might receive on an annual basis. How is that legal? Or if it's not, how is that not... enforced?
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Mar 10, 2024 19:23
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devicenull posted:If it starts venting into the house just rent it out - https://radonmine.com/ jesus loving christ https://radonmine.com/more-on-radon-therapy/ quote:It is our opinion that visiting during a pregnancy is perfectly safe, however if in doubt, do not visit until the first trimester has passed.
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Mar 10, 2024 21:11
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Maybe I could rent out my garage. It's heated and doesn't have the passive radon piping.
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Mar 11, 2024 02:04
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devicenull posted:I think they're usually done in the attic because it's easy and out of sight. We had a system put entirely on the outside of the house, and the fan is only about 3ft off the ground. That's actually the usual setup around here. Last I heard the attic vent is so the radon disperses sufficiently that it doesn't reenter the house. Its also apart of the codes or standards for radon mitigation in the US. The radon concentration coming out of that pipe is going to be a lot higher then the readings in a basement. Worth noting some other countries then the US have different standards and don't require above roof vents.
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Mar 11, 2024 16:44
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I have a 20x30 metal pole barn in Missouri. 100amp service, concrete floor. I’ve got a hobby area/ham shack out there, but it’s only really comfortable a few months per year.  The PO seems to have tried to insulate it. There’s foam board under the metal roof, paper-faced rolls on the walls, but he blocked off all of the eaves and ridge venting. As a result, it’s a sealed box and like 130F out there in August. I’d like to open up the vents, get the building closer to outdoor ambient temps, then wall off the back 8ft, making an 8x16 air conditioned “lab.” Basically where the white walls and shelving are here  What are my options to air condition that space? A through-wall AC and a space heater for the winter seem like my cheapest options, but I don’t really want to cut a 26” hole through the metal siding. Realistically, if the vents weren’t sealed and there was air moving through the building, would I notice if a wall unit were dumping heat into the “cars area?” Should I be looking at a mini split instead? They just seem way more expensive eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Mar 15, 2024 |
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Mar 15, 2024 19:14
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eddiewalker posted:Should I be looking at a mini split instead? They just seem way more expensive You should absolutely be looking at a minisplit. A window shaker in there is going to be noisy and miserable.
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Mar 15, 2024 19:18
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I had not considered a window/thru-wall being noisy. I guess that’s a good reason to spend the money.
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Mar 15, 2024 19:24
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Mini-splits are magical. Get one.
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Mar 15, 2024 20:09
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How should I be shopping for a minisplit? Looks like 12k btu is about as small as I can buy. I consider myself a capable DIYer. Should I only be looking at models with precharged lines?
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Mar 15, 2024 20:21
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eddiewalker posted:How should I be shopping for a minisplit? Looks like 12k btu is about as small as I can buy. If you're willing to buy/rent a vacuum pump and flaring tool there are plenty of units that will allow you to install them with a standard lineset, flared fittings (so you don't need to nitrogen purge while silver soldering) and a pre-charged condenser that is going to be "close enough" to the correct charge if you're anywhere in the 20-40 foot of lineset range. Bonus points if you really want to get into this and pick up a manifold gauge set and a couple of thermometers to make sure it's running right.
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Mar 15, 2024 20:26
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A mini split is the way to go if your construction plan is set and you are doing it whole rear end. Window/wall or portables have one advantage in that they are as described, portable, and easily replaced.
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Mar 15, 2024 20:38
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eddiewalker posted:How should I be shopping for a minisplit? Looks like 12k btu is about as small as I can buy. https://www.ecomfort.com/cooling/9000-btu-mini-split-heat-pumps.html (just showing you 9k units exist) The big thing is to figure out if you want to spend enough to get winter heating (ambient outdoor temp compared to the units rated temp) or just space heater it when it's that cold out. Mr Cool is the most well advertised diy brand and I guess actually supports it? H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 20:41 on Mar 15, 2024 |
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Mar 15, 2024 20:39
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We're gathering quotes to replace our natural gas furnace (which is over-sized for our pose) with an air exchange heat pump, using the furnace's existing ductwork. The outdoor unit will probably be placed along our side yard below our master bedroom, so noise is a little bit of a concern. Our winters are pretty mild, maybe 3 weeks where nights can go below freezing but I don't think things have ever gone below 20 F. With climate change we do want to make sure that we're covered for abnormal temperature variations One quote is for a 3-ton (36k BTU) Trane XV19 with 15 kW of heat strips as backup. I looked up some youtube videos of the thing operating and it's whisper quiet, which is by design. But it's more of a "normal" heat pump, its heating capacity is still 33k BTUs at 47F but it's down to 22.8k at 17F. Its HSPF2 is rated at 8.7 but it's a variable-speed system, so it may be more efficient than that for most of the year (???). Its COP at 5F is 2.19 The other quote is for a 3.5-ton Mitsubishi PUZ-HA42NKA1, this guy says that 42k BTUs is closer to the mark based on his manual J calculation. When I look up the unit online it's listed as a 42k unit but has heating capacity up to 54k? I don't understand this. It's also whisper quiet, and per the spec sheet it's even quieter than the Trane. The HSPF2 is 9.3 and it's also a variable-speed system. Its COP at 5F is 1.9, so a fair bit lower than the Trane; I take this to mean that it delivers more heat but at worse efficiency at this temperature. The quote for the mitsubishi unit is a little bit higher, by $1500 before taxes. Does the thread have any thoughts on these units/proposals? e: Since the tonnage of the 2 units is only different by 0.5 I'm guessing that they're both appropriately sized for our needs. The Mitsubishi technically has slightly higher efficiency by the HSPF2 but I don't know whether that's the right metric to use for inverter heat pumps. I also don't know if there may be other factors to consider. Having a heat strip for backup heating if the heat pump craps out has some marginal appeal. QuarkJets fucked around with this message at 06:09 on Apr 1, 2024 |
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Apr 1, 2024 03:39
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Does the Mitsubishi qualify for more local/state/federal rebates? Might make up the difference.
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Apr 1, 2024 04:15
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Internet Explorer posted:Does the Mitsubishi qualify for more local/state/federal rebates? Might make up the difference. Our area is only getting the federal IRA credit, I asked both contractors to make sure that whatever they propose qualifies. It'd be a good idea to double-check that. The IRS says that you can just rely on a manufacturer's certificate The Trane proposal qualifies, but the specific combination of Mitsubishi indoor unit + outdoor unit seems to not qualify. Mitsubishi publishes their qualifying combinations of air handler + outdoor unit, and they each show up in the list when paired with different things but not together. Also, the AHRI has that combo of air handler + outdoor unit in their database, and it lists that combo as not qualifying for the tax credit. Bummer! So the Mitsubishi is more expensive by an additional $2000 dollars (and was already the more expensive proposal by $1500+tax). Unless someone tells me that the Trane XV19 is a piece of trash I may be going with that. It's Trane's lowest-noise model so I'm optimistic that it'll be low-noise-enough, even if the Mitsubishi is slightly lower noise
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Apr 1, 2024 07:13
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I've got a carrier VS heat pump just outside a bedroom with single pane windows. On low you can't hear it at all, and on high, there's just a little bit of a whir sound. The data sheet says it operates between 56 and 70 dB, the XV19 claims to operate between 43 and 57 so I doubt you'll hear it at all.
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Apr 1, 2024 13:36
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Just checked and my Amana AVZC20 5-ton heat pump is rated for 59-75db in cooling and 65-79db in heating. It's immediately outside my home office (converted bedroom) and the only sound it makes at any point that is more than "oh it's running I guess" is when the reversing valve kicks in to defrost the outside unit during a long heating cycle.
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Apr 1, 2024 20:22
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We've got two 22 year old Trane units that are still using R-22 (man that's a lot of 2s). Reached out to my AC guy and while does suggest replacing them, he's advising we wait till 2025 for the manufacturers to roll out new systems using a new refrigerant due to something to do with new systems will be laid out/installed and manufacturer coverage/support for compressors changing with the refrigerant change. Any validity to this?
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Apr 1, 2024 21:34
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They're probably talking about the A2L mandate in 2025. R-454B is pretty much gonna be the thing for residential fixed install cooling. I don't see why you'd have to wait until 2025 to get that - the equipment already exists. Perhaps they are aware of a specific model line coming out? You should probalby ask them. But I agree that at this point, I probably wouldn't buy any fixed system that isn't A2L compatible unless I needed to replace something right right now. Older stuff simply isn't and won't be compatible ever, since these new refrigerants are slightly flamable, which means 22 years from now you will be paying top dollare for R-410A or some drop in replacement blend just like you'd have to pay top dollar for R-22 today.
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Apr 1, 2024 22:02
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Makes sense. He's coming by this week to check out the system to see if there's any minor repairs needed to make it last another year or see if it needs replacing now but I'll ask then. Now I just need to find a quote on replacing all the insulation in the attic and seal up any leaks.
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Apr 1, 2024 22:14
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Motronic posted:R-454B is pretty much gonna be the thing for residential fixed install cooling. I'm not questioning your knowledge about this, but I'm seeing a lot of buzz about R744 (CO2) systems. Not much available in the market though from what I can tell, a few industrial units and a couple of residential sized Mitsubishi models. From what I've gathered it's high performing in most applications and doubtlessly environmentally and fire safe, but more expensive to build for due to higher pressures.
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Apr 2, 2024 10:03
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Invalido posted:I'm not questioning your knowledge about this, but I'm seeing a lot of buzz about R744 (CO2) systems. Not much available in the market though from what I can tell, a few industrial units and a couple of residential sized Mitsubishi models. From what I've gathered it's high performing in most applications and doubtlessly environmentally and fire safe, but more expensive to build for due to higher pressures. Oh there's a lot more out there, and you're going to find different stuff in different applications. You're likely to see a lot of R-32 (another A2L) in windows units and I've heard of it being used in some mini splits already too. There's a lot of propane (a.k.a. R-290) in restaurant refrigeration equipment now too. And yeah, it looks like 744 might end up in some fixed industrial uses to start. I'm gonna guess package/roof top units to begin with because of their self contained nature. Would be interesting to see the line set for the resi stuff - I'm guess no more flare fittings. So yeah, we're all gonna need new gauges and new recovery equipment.
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Apr 2, 2024 15:43
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Motronic posted:They're probably talking about the A2L mandate in 2025. R-454B is pretty much gonna be the thing for residential fixed install cooling. I don't see why you'd have to wait until 2025 to get that - the equipment already exists. Perhaps they are aware of a specific model line coming out? You should probalby ask them. Hell, 410 is ALREADY $4-700 a jug depending on who you are, I really wouldn't advise a 410 install.
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Apr 2, 2024 19:23
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Chunderbucket posted:Hell, 410 is ALREADY $4-700 a jug depending on who you are, I really wouldn't advise a 410 install. Yikes I fortunately haven't had the need to buy any in a long time. That's absurd. At this rate I'm going to be able to retire on the 16 lbs of R-12 I have squirreled away.
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Apr 2, 2024 20:12
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Chunderbucket posted:Hell, 410 is ALREADY $4-700 a jug depending on who you are, I really wouldn't advise a 410 install.  I just installed a 5 ton r410 system. My dad mentioned over Easter how much a can of it cost him and I assumed he just wasn't going to the right supply house.
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Apr 3, 2024 02:26
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That's Canadian, too. As a consumer tho, whatever, if you need it you need it. Gas prices won't matter if it doesn't leak or get compromised, and most systems never will.
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Apr 3, 2024 19:32
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I want to learn how to do simple maintenance for my HVAC system like changing capacitors and cleaning the core like in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=peymGz_8BkA I need a multimeter. What's a good cheap one that's easy to learn how to use. I've never used one of these. Would one of those cheapo 8 dollar ones at Harbor Frieght work? SeANMcBAY fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Apr 4, 2024 |
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Apr 4, 2024 19:27
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8 dollar multimeters work, but IMO the sweet spot for cheap multimeters is in the € 20-40 range. If you want maximum ease of use get one that's auto-ranging (i.e. one where there's just one knob setting for all kinds of DC voltage or whatever, not several) Something like this one maybe? https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Mult...147&sr=8-5&th=1
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Apr 5, 2024 07:00
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Invalido posted:8 dollar multimeters work, but IMO the sweet spot for cheap multimeters is in the € 20-40 range. If you want maximum ease of use get one that's auto-ranging (i.e. one where there's just one knob setting for all kinds of DC voltage or whatever, not several) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012VYKVQ/ Do not buy a $8 multimeter. If you use them subtly wrong they simply explode in your hand. This extech isn't much better, but I'm marginally more confident it won't explode. It's a real brand. It's what I have at home, and I use it for the normal stuff. Vac/Vdc, capacitance, and continuity.
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Apr 5, 2024 15:36
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