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Teketeketeketeke
Mar 11, 2007


Hello HVAC thread!

- I have a single-stage heat & A/C system.
- I'm currently running a basic programmable thermostat hooked up to four wires (R, W, G, Y)
- I'd like to be able to use a fancier thermostat by gaining a "C" wire to run MOAR POWER.

My Options:

1. I suppose I could buy one of the Venstar Add-a-wire sort of deals, to free up a wire for C
(a la https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Wire-Accessory-Thermostats/dp/B01IF3QXMC)

2. I read that you can also do this:
- At the furnace, remove the wire from G terminal, connect the wire to C
- At the furnace, use a jumper to bridge Y to G
- At the thermostat, remove the wire from the G terminal, and connect it to C
*** This would, of course, remove the "FAN ON" option, but retain the ""AUTO FAN" option. I would never force-on the fan anyway, so I don't care.

Two questions:
First, is option 2 valid? Or could this somehow gently caress up my furnace board or something?
Second, if option 2 is legit, how would I go about wiring this? Here's a pic of my setup

Would I simply jumper Y terminal to G terminal (leading to a weird threesome situation @Y), then connect the originally-G wire to C?

Teketeketeketeke fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Jul 28, 2016

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Teketeketeketeke
Mar 11, 2007


Eh, not that fancy...
I mean more like a backlit programmable thermostat. I actually have it already, but it's running on batteries (the light comes on when any button is pressed, but this adds an unnecessary press any time you want to use it). Always-on lighting would require a C wire.
No need for the blower ever running without heat or A/C going...

e: actually, my thermostat may not even be able to do that...lol
Looks like I have to deal with unnecessary button presses all day err day.

Teketeketeketeke fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Jul 28, 2016

Teketeketeketeke
Mar 11, 2007


Qwijib0 posted:

Second option is theoretically legit if you don't care about fan-- thermostats just bridge the right wires to R to trigger a relay on the furnace board.

Normally on a "Fan" call, the thermostat will bridge R - G to trigger the fan
on a "Cool" call , R - G is bridged to turn on the fan and R - Y is bridged to turn on the compressor. By bridging Y - G at the furnace, once the thermostat bridges R - Y, R - G is also bridged.

Most furnaces automatically run the fan on a "Heat" call R - W, so you don't need the separate fan trigger.

Although if it was me, I'd just use the add-a-wire since $30 is cheap compared to a new board or service call if the jumper does something weird.

Thanks! This definitely gives me a better understanding of what's actually going on.

ExplodingSims posted:

When you go through the initial setup of the T-stat it should give you the option to have the backlight on 24/7 if you so desire.
But yeah, using a jumper to bridge Y and G would work, we do for fixes all the time when a T-stat terminal craps out, but I'd be best to get an Add a wire or just run some new 6 or 8 conductor wire altogether.

I'll have to check the options again. I remember I could cycle through a ton of numbered options (for DST, wacky heat pump shenanigans, celsius/farenheit, etc.), so maybe lighting was one.
Running wire may actually be easier than the Add-A-Wire, in hindsight - single floor home with unfinished basement ceiling :D

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