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5 figures easily, you're probably close to that even with just an equipment swap at a lower seer that might be fine with the flow restrictions. Attic work sucks and will be charged as such.
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# ¿ Jul 29, 2022 22:07 |
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# ¿ May 14, 2024 00:13 |
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Can I get a sanity check on a theoretical change to my mechanicals? I have a furnace that pulls from 70-year-old in-slab returns through a coil and then into the supply ductwork. As part of other work on the house, I'd like to take the opportunity to move the furnace which is horizontal-capable, and the coil, which is only upflow/downflow (but I don't want to spend $800 additional to replace it), into the attic and abandon the existing return system. Assuming enough headroom for the radius of the flat elbow, is this a setup that would work? I need a bend at some point to go from horizontal, and I'm wondering if there's a reason it can't be before the coil rather than after it (where I assume it would be if the coil was horizontal flow).
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# ¿ Oct 24, 2022 21:40 |
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Bird in a Blender posted:Are you installing a grille to pull return air into the attic? You need to hard duct that return into a ceiling grille, I didn’t see that mentioned so I wanted to be sure you took that into account. In the tradition of only posting half a project, I have left probably critical detail out. The prerequisite for this project would be foam-insulating the attic, so my hope would be that I could just use the whole attic space as a return plenum with a grille or two but not any additional return ductwork. Coil is indeed for refrigeration, it's a heat pump, I understand the lines will need to be rerun, the quote for that wasn't awful.
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# ¿ Oct 25, 2022 17:06 |
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Bird in a Blender posted:I would assume foam insulation is not plenum rated, which means you can't use the attic as a plenum without lining the foam. Even if you decide to do that, does this mean you're covering any vents in your attic? The return air will pull air from any opening, so your attic would need to be sealed up. I'd have to look up smoke rating of whatever your using to be sure, but the danger is that if there is a fire in your attic, you will then pull all that smoke and fumes and blow it through your whole house, which is a very bad thing to happen. There is as I assumed plenum-rated foam, but not shockingly it's super expensive, so yeah, just ducting new returns is infinitely cheaper, thanks for the sanity check.
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# ¿ Oct 25, 2022 23:04 |
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MRC48B posted:Yep, the comfort equipment industry is currently moving backwards from an open, simple, and effective standard (24vac signalling RWYG) to proprietary versions of what is probably actually modbus underneath. I had figured that some startup would have taken a crack at carrier "ABCD" by now given its age and how it's fully reverse engineered at this point. All I want is a way to manually set fan ramps on my variable system so that the two degree shift at bedtime happens at low % capacity over an hour or so rather than 15 minutes at 100%
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# ¿ Mar 24, 2023 14:49 |
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H110Hawk posted:This may actually be in the installer manual. It's a first gen infinity touch, and if there is I haven't found it. As far as I can tell, it's got two modes-- traditional setback where it changes the setpoint at a time, and ~smart setback~ where it uses uh "intelligence" to take into account things to slowly get to the set point by the time you want it there. The first one works as expected, and with a sudden change in setpoint it cranks to 100%. The second is just... bad. It will run at low/mid till maybe 10 min before the timed setpoint and then realize it's not going to make it, and then crank to 100 anyway, but then unlike mode 1 where it ramps down as it gets close, it will just stay at 100 and then overshoot by a degree then turn off entirely for 30-hour. I'm limited to 4 temp changes/day or else I could just set a several time/temp points one degree apart.
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# ¿ Mar 25, 2023 15:10 |
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Communicating thermostats would be great if they all used a common protocol rather than their own slightly tweaked flavor of BACnet.
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# ¿ Jul 12, 2023 17:06 |
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I don't know of one-- and I'm not sure how it would work without some sort of communication between the stat and HP. Carrier will sell you a $1000 automation access module to go with the $700 stat, that exposes all of the controls over a supported rs-232 interface (instead of hijacking the reverse-engineered native rs-485 one). But you're still limited to the algorithm in the stat to manage the variability.
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2023 18:15 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:In theory, yes. I have an Amana (Goodman) system like this that uses a regular ecobee thermostat, but the outside and air handler units both communicate to decide on workloads. huh-- do you use an app or something to also let the system know what the setpoint is, or does it just use timers like a 2-stage would with a single-stage thermostat? If you never used setbacks, then eventually I guess it would dial-in, but if you do then I don't see how it knows that the longer runtime is expected because now you're heating/cooling to a new setpoint rather than maintaining. Tried to find docs on it cause it seems interesting.
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2023 20:34 |
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nothing in that video should be making soot-- it looks like an air handler with resistive backup heat. Black particulate matter escaping from the refrigeration entry hole is not normal. If you can live without it tonight, I'd cut the power if you can't find a good explanation. It's possible the installers scorched the wall when brazing that connection-- if you don't see or feel heat escaping that hole, that's a reasonable explanation.
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# ¿ Oct 1, 2023 04:12 |
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# ¿ May 14, 2024 00:13 |
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I've got a carrier VS heat pump just outside a bedroom with single pane windows. On low you can't hear it at all, and on high, there's just a little bit of a whir sound. The data sheet says it operates between 56 and 70 dB, the XV19 claims to operate between 43 and 57 so I doubt you'll hear it at all.
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# ¿ Apr 1, 2024 13:36 |