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How stupid is this register/return/thermostat placement combo? That return is the return for the entire apartment. I can feel the hot air just getting sucked into return and this room just stays cold  How bad of an idea is this? Made a hood type thing so air gets pulled from lower in the room. Didn't sound like it was putting any stress on the furnace. 
The Slack Lagoon fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Feb 14, 2016 |
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Feb 14, 2016 16:41
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Last night I installed a Nest Thermostat E, replacing a basic Honeywell thermostat. System Natural Gas Forced Hot Air The Honeywell had W Rc Jumper to Rh Nest said I only needed W and R. The nest is installed, and the heating is working, however: With the Honeywell when the heat came on it was very hot, the system wasn't on for long, and it heated up fast. With the nest when the heat comes on it isn't as hot, runs for longer, and heats more slowly. Nothing what changed with the system other than the thermostat. Is this normal? Could the Nest change the behavior of the furnace/blower? Another potentially relevant piece of information: the gas company was doing some work last night, but I'm not sure if it impacted my gas. I didn't get any notice, and the gas meter was increasing when the heat was on. Do I have anything to be concerned about?
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Nov 28, 2017 18:15
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Yes, W and R wires only. Strange! My wife also noticed the heat being cooler, so it wasn't just me. Is it possible the gas company got air bubbles in the lines or something and the concentration of gas wasn't as high as normal (I have no idea what I'm talking about) I did look like they were using compressed air to do something last night.
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Nov 28, 2017 21:06
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My heat went out last night. Nest said no power to the r wire. The breaker was ok, furnace fuse was ok, power switch on the furnace was on. Texted my landlord and he said the people on the third floor also lost heat. On my way to the basement I noticed the red emergency switches were flipped to off. Some fucknut shut off the emergency switches at like 1030pm so when I woke up the temp had dropped super low. It was also the coldest it's been all year last night. I didn't think to check those switches because who would shut off the emergency switch to the heat in the winter?
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Dec 15, 2017 19:55
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I've tried researching this, but the only answer I've found is "turn it down and you'll save energy". How many degrees lower should a thermostat be set to for "away"? I have forced hot air gas furnace and a nest e. Set temp when we're home is currently 64, and at night or when we are gone it is set to 56. Is an 8 degree swing too large? Am I having the furnace work too hard when it's going back to 64 from 56? Approximate set temps for weekday: 630am 64 730 am 56 500pm 64 1000pm 56
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Jan 15, 2019 20:37
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I'm moving out of an apartment. I had installed a nest thermostat and im going to put the old one back. The old one has a jumper cables between RH and RC - which terminal should I put the red wire from the furnace in to? Only R and W wires from the furnace
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Jan 26, 2020 16:49
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New place has floor vents, our bed is over one (there are two in the room) and the couch is over one (there are two in the room, and the couch has 5-6 inches of space under it, not completely blocking the vent). How can I tell if it's ok to close those two registers without damaging the blower, or should I get angled/vent deflectors? e: or should I get vent deflectors and angle them 1) at the wall so the air spreads out along the wall or 2) angle the air into the room under the furniture? The Slack Lagoon fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Feb 2, 2020 |
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Feb 2, 2020 19:44
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Just moved to a new place last week. My HVAC system was pretty quiet. I replaced the filter (it was absolutely filthy and I have no idea when it was changed last). Now when the blower is running the vents are pretty loud with the wooshing sound of air, and the return vents are pretty audible as well. Is it possible/would it be appropriste to lower the blower fan speed?
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Feb 17, 2020 05:53
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brugroffil posted:You could try a more restrictive/higher rated filter. We have to go to the cheapest fiberglass ones in the winter otherwise our furnace overheats itself, and it's noticeably louder than the thicker ones we run in the summer. I ordered some better filters from Amazon - the Ace a block away only had a lovely 30 day filter.
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Feb 17, 2020 22:11
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I have natural gas forced air furnace (a Goodman, maybe 5 years old). Yesterday the heat was, today it is not. The furnace will click on, and make a noise but it's not combustion or the blower fan. After awhile the noise stops
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Nov 5, 2021 14:46
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Motronic posted:Take off the bottom panel and look at the circuit board down there. It should have a code on it, either lights on/off or an actual segment display depending on model. Goodman GMS80804BNBE, 3 flashes of the lights According to a manual for "GMS8" that means: • Pressure switch hose blocked, pinched or connected improperly. • Blocked flue or weak induced draft blower. • Incorrect pressure switch setpoint or malfunctioning switch contacts. • Loose or improperly connected wiring.
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Nov 5, 2021 22:31
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Motronic posted:So when you call for heat, do you hear a fan start up? That would be the draft fan (the one in the upper part of the case). I don't think it can tell those first 2, probably 3 things unless the fan is actually running first. Yes the fan starts and runs and then the 3 blinks start, but not the blower fan.
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Nov 6, 2021 00:01
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Checked the hose, seems fine, checked the sensor with a multimeter, seems fine. I didn't see any drain hoses, may be because it's also a an AC unit. There's a 1/2 or so pvc pipe coming from the AC condenser that goes to the drain pump. Called HVAC company and they are 3 days behind for emergency calls yikes. Tonight is the first night below freezing pray 4 me The Slack Lagoon fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Nov 6, 2021 |
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Nov 6, 2021 01:50
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So the issue was a clog inside the inducer motor that I wasn't able to clear without taking it off (which I didn't feel comfortable doing). They did run it for a bit and he showed me the flames on the burner how they would sometimes flare orange and said the heat exchanger may be cracked and the furnace may need to be replaced. Furnace is 13 years old, probably has never had annual service (it was previously a rental property that we bought to live in, there's a lot of poo poo that needs fix'n) After doing some research it looks like to really see if it's cracked you'd need a camera inspection, which was not done, or a combustion test, which was not done. I will note that in the spring we had insulation installed, and before the company was allowed to install the insulation they had to do a combustion test, and they said it tested normally. We have CO detectors in the living space and in the basement where the furnace is. How concerned should I be? Are there any steps we can take to verify if it is cracked? I've called a few other HVAC companies to try getting some quotes. If we have to replace the furnace it's not the worst thing since the furnace that's there currently is an 80% and my state has a program to subsidize the cost of 95% or 97% furnaces. e: also thinking of a central heat pump system to replace the furnace and central AC, if anyone has experience with those. In Massachusetts, so our winters don't usually go below like 5F on the coldest days. The Slack Lagoon fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Nov 9, 2021 |
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Nov 9, 2021 02:56
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How hard is it to air seal ductwork? It has become clear that whoever installed our system did a poo poo job and it's not sealed very well. It's all accessible form the unfinished basement. Some of it is metal ducting and some is insulated flex pipe. I have an IR camera and I can easily find the leaks.
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Nov 17, 2021 03:09
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Anyone have experience with central heat pump to warm air system in places that get below freezing? Trying to decide if I should go with central heat pump with electric resistance heat backup or a NG furnace with a heat pump on top, running the heat pump down until efficiency drops and swapping to the NG.
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Nov 27, 2021 20:00
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Any thoughts on Bryant furnaces/heat pumps?
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Jan 22, 2022 07:07
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Is there a way to calculate ballpark cost of operation for a whole home ASHP if I have data on therms used in the existing 80% furnace?
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Feb 19, 2022 16:17
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B-Nasty posted:Therms * 100,000 * .80 = Total BTUs to heat Thanks! Out of curiousity, where does the 3412 come from?
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Feb 19, 2022 21:42
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Im debating replacing an 80% has furnace with a central ASHP because my state has a 10k rebate for a system like that, but I was wondering: how loud is the heat exchanger? Is there a lot of electric whine with that?
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Mar 18, 2022 14:23
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Anyone have experience with Bryant Central Ducted Heat Pumps? I'm looking at replacing an 80% NG furnace/AC and my state has a $10,000 instant rebate on installations of central heat pumps that remove NG as a fuel source so it knocks the price down to similar to an 80% replacement furnace. Indoor unit: FE4ANB005L00 Outdoor Unit: 284ANV036000
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Apr 12, 2022 00:01
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This is a really really dumb and specific question. Is it possible to have a ducted heat pump system but run a single ductless unit off the same outside compressor?
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Jul 25, 2022 14:44
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I've seen some things about rebates or incentives on heat pumps in the IRA. Anyone know of a good source or into from HVAC installer industry groups with details?
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Sep 4, 2022 20:28
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Senor P. posted:-Is it worth trying to future proof? a lot of states have regulations banning HFCs, and if the EPA AIM regulation gets promulgated HFOs will (and already have started to) replace HFC refrigerants. They are not generally interchangeable, and a new system would have to be designed to be used with HFOs.
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Sep 29, 2022 23:07
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Odd question, I've read that Variable Speed heat pumps are more efficiency at lower operating speed. Given that piece of information does oversizing a variable heat pump make sense from an energy savings standpoint (ignoring, for the moment, the increased install price from more expensive equipment).
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Nov 4, 2022 21:40
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What sort of power needs does a heat pump need? We have 100 amp service and I assume we probably would need a service upgrade. We do currently have central AC on a 30amp breaker, so not sure if heat pump would need more than the existing circuit. Pretty small 970sf unit.
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Dec 8, 2023 18:14
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 17:18 |
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I'm looking at getting a notifications Mitsubishi hyper heat 2 ton central ashp installed and I'm trying to decide if I should get backup resistance coil. Design temp is (iirc) 14 degrees and the equipment should be good to -4 and provide enough heat output. I'm not concerned from an operating temp standpoint, but more a "what is the heat pump breaks or has issues in the winter, at least we can switch over to the resistance". Any experience with resistance back up? I was quoted ~$3000 for the backup, so pricey but not too bad for my area (Boston HVAC company pricing is wild).
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Feb 14, 2024 05:44
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