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I'm assuming you're talking about the overflow pan right, not the one that's built into the AHU? Cause if they didn't pipe on into the airhandler those are some dumb installers. Overflow pan doesn't need a drain per se, but it's a good idea to have a separate run for it though. Ideally with a ball valve in line so you can drain it easily if it fills up.
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Jul 24, 2018 15:31
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Yeah, that's kind of its purpose. But that's why I said it's a good idea of installers ro run a separate drain line for it, with a ball valve for easy draining when that happens. May be worth asking your tech if you have a primary float switch installed at the AHU as well, as that will (hopefully) stop the unit from overflowing like that.
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Jul 24, 2018 21:10
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I would say replace the furnace, it's not really a huge amount more, and you'll have a brand new blower assembly, boards, etc... I dont really see any reason not too if you can swing it.
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Jul 27, 2018 04:44
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Qwijib0 posted:depends on the market, make/model, and if it's a replacement or retrofit. When I replaced my system I needed some ductwork modifications and ended up in that range. It can be, but it all depends on the equipment more than anything. The name brand ones, Trane, Carrier, Lennox, etc, tend to be more expensive. And then the higher the SEER rating the higher the price. I've seen an install quoted as high as $50,000 before.
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Jul 27, 2018 05:21
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skipdogg posted:Possibly Dumb HVAC question. Just moved into a new house. Large 2 story, 3400 sq feet. 2 HVAC units, one for each floor. (2.5 ton and 2 ton) We like it cold in the house, so downstairs is set to 70 right now, and upstairs to 72. Sounds like it might be a bit oversized on the downstairs part there. Sounds like it's pulling down too fast, and not running long enough to properly dehumidify in there. Not too much that could be done about that unfortunately, but you could look into seeing if the fan can be slowed down if you have a tech out there to look at it. Although if it's new enough, it may have a dehumidify mode built into it. If it has an ECM motor it can run it slower while the compressor runs to pull moisture out. kid sinister posted:What's up with my AC? It's cool but not cold, and it looks like I'm over $800 in the hole now with nothing to show for it. 1. Two ways. Either look at the BTU rating and divide it by 12000, or look at the model number, depends on the make, but there should be a string of 3 numbers in the middle you can divide by 12 and that will give you the tonnage. 2. Not really no, it was probably on it's way out already. They tend to go pretty quickly, and two weeks is plenty of time for it to go from decent to ready to pop. 3. Not necessarily, but it won't really hurt anything, and can actually be pretty beneficial since it helps lower the starting amps. 4. Have a different tech come out and look at things. Sounds like a flow issue, if he was adjusting the TXV, (assuming it's an adjustable type anyways) sounds like you might be having some issues with the refrigerant feeding into the coils properly. There's really not much reason to be adjusting a TXV unless things are really bad, so I would be starting there. Also could try setting the blower back to it's original speed as well.
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Aug 7, 2018 04:39
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devicenull posted:Is 7 inch flex duct common? I'm trying to repair the previous owners fuckup of using duct tape to affix flex duct to rigid in the attic Eh, The zipties are fine. To do it the proper way, all you need to do is tape the inner liner to the collar, then a ziptie, then pull the insulation over that, and ziptie again. Those zipties hold up just fine in like 130* attics, so they should fine in yours. H110Hawk posted:Looking in to adding a mini-split to my soon-to-be office. Those following along other threads will (soon) recognize this as "the room behind that terrifying door in the back of my garage." As far as brands go, Mitsubishi and Fujistu are pretty much top of the line. But realistically? They're all pretty much the same. I mean that literally too, pretty much all the big brands (Trane, Lennox, Carrier) are rebadged units. Though if you wanna go for a budget unit, Midea is pretty good, while not being a lot of money. Kastien can attest to this. I dunno, $4200 seems pretty decent, and Lennox equipment is generally pretty good. Though, I'm pretty sure their mini-split is just a rebadged Mitsubishi. ExplodingSims fucked around with this message at 05:29 on Sep 12, 2018 |
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Sep 12, 2018 05:25
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. The vendor even replied attempting to justify the cost.
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Brown and brown/white almost always go to the capacitor on a generic motor like that. Then you should have two power wires, that may go into the speed taps. Look on the side of the motor, there should be a wiring diagram for it.
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Oct 11, 2018 19:20
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought that the NEST tstat only works on 24V systems, not millivolt stuff?
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Oct 13, 2018 22:50
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I mean, the first thing to check then would be to make sure your unit isnt using a millivolt power system. Since it sounds like you have a meter, the first step would be to find the AHU and see pop the cover panel off. See if you have 24V coming from the transformer. See if you have a popped fuse or something, and then go from there.
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Oct 14, 2018 01:19
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Do you have a probe you can stic k into the return and supply side? If you can tell us the temp split there that'll help with the diagnosis
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Jan 27, 2019 06:22
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Mr.Popadopolis posted:*Thoughts on buying a used condenser? If the person who did the disconnection wasn't an idiot, what're the risks? If you are going to DIY this, than you most certianly shouldn't buy a used system. You won't know the condition it was in before it was disconnected. Was it sealed and filled with nitro so moisture didn't get in? Is the compressor going to run like its full of rocks? As far as brands go, ehhh, yes and no. For the most part, they're pretty similar, but I would say Trane and Lennox are definitely worth the extra coin. They're built better, use better parts, and seem to hold up better. Goodman is a fine system, but it gets a lot of lovely installs. And their commercial line is garbage, but that's another story. But for your purposes Goodman would work just fine. I'm gonna go against the usual contractor stuff, and say you can do all the install yourself, but there's things you need to be aware of. First of all, you're going to need a drier, if you new condenser doesn't have one installed already. A 163s should be sufficient for your install. Then you're going to need a tank of nitrogen for the install as well. For pressure testing, and to flow while you braze if you want to be a real pro. The biggest thing though, is you should see if you need permits for this if you plan to sell your house anytime soon.
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Jun 9, 2019 20:55
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DkHelmet posted:I just got a quote to install an Aprilaire 600M humidifier on my Carrier two stage furnace (80k Btuh, 1600CFM, one year old) for $950. That was the original installer. Amazon has the same thing for $125 in parts, $250 in labor for the Amazon Professional service. I'd get a few quotes outside of those two. Amazon is almost certainly going to hire some "Chuck in a truck" $10 tech and they'll certainly gently caress something up. B-Nasty posted:They do have P&L warranties; it would've all be covered under that less maybe a small 'roll truck' fee if you were 'no heat/cool'. I've had coolant added/removed for free under my P&L. And if mini-split stuff like that catches on then the field will become even more busy as techs get to fix all the homeowner mistakes from installing them! TraderStav posted:I don't understand how an industry can have a standard that when parts break super early in the lifecycle that all the labor to fix it and materials are on you. If my engine goes bust after 10,000 miles I don't pay my dealer for the oil and hours to replace it. Because, unlike a car, HVAC stuff isn't nearly as standardized. In one install you might have the AHU in the garage, super easy to swap out the evap coil, no access problems, might be 3-4 hour job max. But other might have the AHU crammed in the attic, or worse, in the crawlspace way in back, you have to crawl and drag all your poo poo with you. Not to mention the varying weights of refrigerant, time to vacuum, etc. And you do need your EPA certs to work on this stuff. In addition to all that, if they're a halfway decent company, they should be checking everything while on site, which it sounds like your tech did. IE checking the condenser for cleanliness, checking contactors/relays/capacitors/etc... While it may be expensive, in theory you're paying for a lot more than just a repair.
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Sep 2, 2019 03:10
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ntan1 posted:Thanks! The parts aren't really what you're paying for. The labor is what jacks the price up. So either you have a building that's going to be really difficult to run the lineset in, or they pretty much just don't want to do they job and gave you a really high estimate to shoo you away.
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Sep 2, 2019 22:23
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angryrobots posted:Regarding the mini splits being pre-charged for a specific line set length - if you had the space to leave the excess line set rolled up in an inconspicuous area, is there any reason beyond efficiency loss to do so? Would the efficiency loss be more than negligible? It doesn't really matter, beyond just looking kinda ugly. For the most part, mini-spilts just run no matter what. Just make sure that you ziptie them down to each other pretty well. If you just leave it coiled up it has the tendency to act like a spring and vibrate excessively. ExplodingSims fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Sep 3, 2019 |
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Sep 3, 2019 02:01
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ntan1 posted:Q for you all who do work in HVAC ductless. As long as he's good with the flaring tool or has weld-on flare starters using generic copper is fine. Just make sure they insulate both lines.
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Sep 6, 2019 02:47
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Johnstone is usually pretty lax about who they sell to. I've seen plenty of non-trades people shopping there. Or if you have any local supply houses they can be good too.
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Sep 10, 2019 04:18
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SpartanIvy posted:The reason I'm looking for a stand alone AC unit is so I only run it while I'm working out there. If I wanted 24/7 AC I would just hook a vent up to my main HVAC. Well, I mean, ideally you should have two float switches, one on the unit, and another in the overflow pan to kill the unit automatically. And if you dont, you should get those. They're a whole lot less likely to fail than your smart sensor.
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Sep 22, 2019 04:22
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Smackdillion posted:99% of people are not willing to pay for the amount of time it takes to dial a system in on a service call. So much of doing hvac properly is "hurry up and wait". People don't generally like to pay anyone they don't view as having worked furiously for the entirety of the service call. It's a combination of this and also the fact that dispatch is more than willing to try and overload a tech with calls. So you end up with guys trying to rush and get calls done so they can get home at a decent time. There are lovely techs out there. A lot actually, but not everything that goes wrong is just from lazy techs.
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Nov 3, 2019 00:36
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Unfortunately that seems to be the future of HVAC equipment. Every manufacturer is going to their own proprietary stuff. It gets even worst when you start getting into the communicating units and high end stuff. There are a few companies making universal ECM stuff, but the quality seems to be all over the map.
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Dec 15, 2019 19:31
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Yeah, Lennox is going to be more expensive, but if they need to run power, lineset, etc for the new condenser and evap, than $10000 is pretty reasonable for a new install.
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Apr 28, 2020 20:56
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