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Glad I found this thread, I currently work Residential, but was thinking about moving into commercial and refrigeration. Content: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NO8eOjQAKUg
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Apr 10, 2016 19:15
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 19:39 |
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If you're going to go through the effort of running a cable, run an eight conductor cable. You or someone else in the future will thank you.
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Apr 26, 2016 23:18
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Advantages of HVAC: You can get in snowball fights in June. Not shown: the two inches of snow on the evaporator. Didn't think to get a picture before I defrosted it.
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Jun 9, 2016 02:40
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Which coil did you clean, the evaporator (inside), or condenser (outdoor)?
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Jun 14, 2016 00:36
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You may be hitting the high pressure limit switch, which would cause it to shut off. Unfortunately, there's quite a few different things that can cause that. One is a dirty condenser, the other is no airflow across the a-coil, or TXV issues. It's really difficult to internet diagnose, because it's very enviroment dependent. 
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Jun 14, 2016 01:05
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That would help. Temperature of the big tube, which is the suction line. Temperature of the small tube, which is the liquid line, Temperature of the air coming out of your supply ducts, you can just laser the duct. it will be close enough. Temperature of the return ducts. All of this will still only be guess work. Because what I really need is refrigerant pressures while this thing is acting up. Also, you wouldn't be fortunate enough to have an inspection hatch on the A-coil? Some goodmans do.
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Jun 14, 2016 01:56
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 Yeah. You found your issue. You need to do some sheet metal work there.
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Jun 30, 2016 00:30
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 Dont use wirenuts kids
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Jul 9, 2016 14:11
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Many commercial buildings do this to save energy. It works great up until the point where the heat exchanger leaks and the refrigerant loop gets flooded with water. 
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Aug 16, 2016 19:35
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Check the connections at the thermostat first, and also replace the batteries, if it needs them.
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Oct 15, 2016 16:03
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Yeah, this is not a busy thread and repair via forums post is not a good way to troubleshoot anything. What you have is a very common failure mode for those x13 motors. The encapsulation for the electronics on the back of the motor was defective, and eventually moisture makes the control board inside go apeshit. Your options are as you say a 240$ replacement motor controller, or retrofit a psc multi speed google gives info on both.
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Oct 18, 2016 04:56
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Never heard of it before. Most fan motors should have a thermal cutout to prevent this. Cleaning the motor housing every few years would go a long way I think.
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Oct 23, 2016 23:46
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Most people who require accurate humidity control in both directions are industry (printing, textiles, some plastics) or scientific customers (labs), and they run large air handlers or rooftop units with specific equipment setup for each, and a building automation system to manage it. The easiest and least expensive solution for you, John-Zoidberg-Homeowner, is probably gonna be the separate units. I have not seen combination units available residentially.
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Nov 27, 2016 05:19
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Here, have a chart:  The problem with running heat/cool or eheat/cool at the same time is 9 times out of 10 the systems are sized so the heat will completely overpower any cooling effect. Your average furnace puts out about 60,000 BTUs/Hour, and puts out 130-150f air. (That's measured right after the heat exchanger, you lose a bit due to ducting losses) Most homes have an AC system that will do 2 or 3 tons of refrigeration, which comes out to 36,000 btus an hr. That's half. Under Ideal conditions. A return air temp of 130+ DEG is not ideal at all. Most residential systems are either: A (gas or oil) furnace, with an AC coil after (downstream in the airflow path). In most cases, the AC coil is right above the furnace heat exchanger tubes. Any moisture that condenses on the coil will get vaporized before it can make it to the drain once the furnace heats up. A heat pump with "Emergency heat", which is basically a series of electric heating elements (a big toaster) after the AC coil. Usually they're mounted right on the back side of the coil. This would work, except again the electric heat elements will drown out the cooling system, preventing it from dropping below the dew point of the incoming air. If you had a system that had components you could modulate, this might be workable. But you're trying to do this on the cheap, so buying a new furnace is out, and a way to modulate 10 kilowatts of eheat won't be cheap either. Residential systems do not have a "defrost mode" for the indoor coil, because they are not supposed to ice up. Heat pumps will have a "Defrost mode" for the outdoor coil, because that will frost up in low outdoor temperatures. What it is actually doing though, is just switching back to AC mode for a bit. TLDR: Buy a purpose-built dehumidifier. It will be more efficient, reliable, and cost you less in the long run. People (not me), with fancy degrees do a lot of math to make these systems work in a specific way, and they don't even always do that.
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Dec 1, 2016 04:10
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I would suggest bribery. Most apartment maintenance guys don't get paid much. Or if there is an HVAC contractor who does your common area equipment, ask/bribe them to hook up the common wire for the unit.
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Dec 6, 2016 23:12
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Ripoff posted:Getting access to the drat HVAC unit to connect it is the big problem, as they literally have it behind a locked door. That's what I'm saying. Find one who will "misplace his keys" in exchange for a 24pk of his choice.
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Dec 7, 2016 02:55
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Motronic posted:And what happen below 25 or so is that it will start up the draft fan as normal and then fault out. Repeat 3 times, etc. I think the vac sensor is too cold or has some other cold-related obstruction to allow it to start up properly. You probably have water/ice in the pressure switches, or more probably the one on the left of the picture, that goes all the way to the bottom of the heat exchanger on the lower right. Because your condensate drain line appears to go to about that level, water probably backs up a little into the pressure switch line when you cycle off, then freezes. Switch fails to make on startup, and it locks out. So yeah. Some dude on the INTERNET says your light bulb solution would probably work. I personally would drop that condensate line lower. And make sure the switches and vac lines are dried out.
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Dec 19, 2016 02:12
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ExplodingSims posted:Just the energy savings alone will be a pretty decent increase. Can be. Under good install conditions that are similar to the "Bench test" setup that SEER is evaluated at. Don't get me wrong. Almost anything made today will be more efficient. But don't take the savings estimate on the label as money in the bank.
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Jan 6, 2017 04:25
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glynnenstein posted:I hadn't bought R-22 in a while and was a little alarmed by the price from my contractor who just swapped out two Bitzer screws for me at work, but apparently I was getting quite a deal! Is $770 for 30 pounds retail the real world we're living in or do I need to shop around? I just have one small building so I don't need it often enough to buy bulk, but all our equipment is 22. I guess it's time for me to do my homework on drop-in replacements, huh? Don't worry. Once Trump and the congress castrates the EPA, they'll be dropping the phase out. R-22 will drop in price once the import and production ban goes away, they will bring back R-12, and I can keep fixing leaks in the same stupid pieces of poo poo over and over again.
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Jan 9, 2017 23:42
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It depends entirely on the latitude and climate in which you live. If you only need heat for a few weeks a year, and don't use natural gas for cooking, then yeah it can be worth it. If your winter lasts several months and you're heating an average poorly insulated residential home, then no. It is not.
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Jan 24, 2017 01:31
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Do you have a filter on the furnace itself? The answer is always filter return air. If possible I would just replace the flex, rather than try to clean it, and put a filter-grill on the return.
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Feb 18, 2017 02:25
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Did you clean the condensate trap (the white plastic block the lines run through)? Those things get full of junk all the time. pull the tubes off, usually there's two screws on the back, and flush that thing both ways in the sink.
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Mar 2, 2017 04:37
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The drain pan on most a-coils is plastic. Not that it should dissuade you. I have heard good things about UV setups, but no firsthand experience.
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Apr 6, 2017 01:47
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Alereon posted:Don't those UV sterilizers produce toxic levels of ozone? No. And even if they did OP's mold problem will kill him quicker than the ozone will.
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Apr 6, 2017 03:41
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ExplodingSims posted:Use the pool heater as the condenser for the A/C Also for preheating your domestic hot water. The downside to this is water to water heat exchangers are expensive and not maintenance free.
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Jun 2, 2017 02:21
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Charge is based on a MAX of 25ft. If you have less line, the unit compensates. More and you need to add. RTFM, it will tell you.
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Jun 13, 2017 03:11
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Kjermzs posted:How badly is this hurting the efficiency? When it is in the low 90s the unit has to run constantly just to maintain a temp of 76. I had the coolant checked and it was where it should be. This probably has little to do with the deck and more to do with your house being poorly insulated. Four Feet of vertical space isn't terrible, assuming there is space around it. As others have said though, a condenser that sniff he own farts is a shameful condenser. FatCow posted:The upstairs AC also seems to draw air in through the WH vent stack if one of the doors is closed. This problem is really hard to solve without being able to see the building in person. But the fact that you draw air IN through a water heater vent is a Bad Thing that you should Fix. It means that when that water heater lights, it may not be venting outside properly, and dumping combustion gases in the building.
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Jul 10, 2017 22:31
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I don't want to diss you for having a healthy respect for high voltages, but most caps in residential hvac applications are run caps wired in series with the start winding. They usually discharge pretty quickly when you shut off the power to the unit. There's always the screwdriver safety check as well. 
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Jul 24, 2017 04:18
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Assuming your systems are sized right and apples to apples, Any place where you need outside air exchange, or have air quality issues. Ductless systems do not filter anything.
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Aug 14, 2017 18:52
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That is true of any system, but minisplits will be worse in dirty environments. That doesn't mean you shouldn't install one in a shop or garage, it just means you have to clean it.
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Aug 14, 2017 19:03
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Clean the coils and replace the filter first.
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Nov 3, 2017 22:40
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vamp thermostats can cause weird issues. I would recommend if you have additional wires available you connect a "C" or common wire at both the stat and furnace.
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Nov 29, 2017 00:54
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If your furnace is in an area that is temp controlled, Add a cheater grill into the return duct. This will pull air from the basement/crawlspace/wherever to make up the difference. get one with a damper and adjust as necessary.
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Dec 9, 2017 00:12
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Installers dont like doing extra work. If the stat doesnt require a common wire to run, they arent going to waste time hooking it up.
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Dec 11, 2017 15:25
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If your AUX heat is running all the time, your heat pump isn't pumping very well. Recommend you get someone to check it out.
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Dec 30, 2017 23:20
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Fossil second stage means getting a gas-fired furnace, and getting your unit wired so it uses the heat pump first, then fires the burners when it gets really cold. Better insulation would be the most effective way of reducing your heating bills, but if your walls are plaster it probably isn't too practical.
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Dec 31, 2017 05:00
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The best part was the lovely potting on the electronics package would loosen up with vibration and let in moisture. Replacement packages include literature telling you to install a drip loop on the wiring harness.
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Jan 1, 2018 20:53
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Typically no, second question they ask is usually what contractor you are working for. Wouldn't hurt to call and ask though. I can't imagine why they would say no for ductboard.
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Jan 11, 2018 06:02
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Also insurance purposes. Modifying heaters like that removes the ul rating, and thus insurance coverage in case of a fire. Two stages won't help much if you aren't being billed by peak load. Eheat is eheat, no real efficiency help other than better insulation.
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Feb 4, 2018 00:33
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 19:39 |
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pull that backplate off the wall and see if there is an unused wire in the cable they put between your existing thermostat and your hvac unit. if you've got a spare blue or gray at both ends, you can use it as the C wire.
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Feb 7, 2018 02:57
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