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Use the blue one, but you have to land the other end of it at your furnace/fancoil/whatever. The black and yellow in the Y slot may be for something else. I can't tell via the INTERNET. If you have trouble identifying where it needs to go, post an image and we will try to walk you through it.
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Feb 7, 2018 03:52
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It depends. if that is a 24v stat, yeah you will probably be fine. if it's an older milivolt stat, it won't work. if you have a voltmeter and know how to use it, on the back there should be a pair of wires coming in, turn the stat off and take a voltage reading across them.
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Feb 25, 2018 20:13
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INTERNET research is showing me that those taco zone controllers do not play nice with Nest thermostats without a third wire connected to C. If you don't have a third wire going to that stat, you may want to have your electrician run you a new thermostat cable. There is a C on the taco controller, but you may want to find someone locally to hook it up for you if using a voltmeter is not your speed.
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Feb 25, 2018 21:28
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The IT guys should just spin up 6kw worth of crypto mining rigs as a base load.
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Mar 4, 2018 21:15
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Minidust posted:I've got an oooooooold in-wall air conditioner that works fine on a functional level. However, strong winds will cause it to make loud farting noises when it's not in use. Like lately there's this nor'easter going on, and the thing just farts loudly all night, it's terrible. I even removed the front cover and stuffed some foam inside the vent, to keep the wheel thing from moving, but it's not that because the farting noise continues. Ever hear of anything like this?? It sound like some moving component is to blame. I know the best solution is "get a new unit" but that's $500 I'd rather not spend when the thing still cools just fine. You probably have a small leak in the gasket surrounding the unit. Wind blowing in or out makes it vibrate.
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Mar 10, 2018 17:44
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Internet Diagnostic: Your start cap died, but then a month later your start winding also went. A lot of blower motors are PSC motors that are wired like this:  Replace the motor. If you can spare the cash and your furnace is newer (you won't be replacing it in a few years) ECM motors are more energy efficient, and have nifty features like an always-on air circulation mode.
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May 4, 2018 01:40
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Yeah don't bother with the ECM then. They sell universal PSC motors. Just read the nameplate on your old one and try to match the numbers.
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May 4, 2018 01:51
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1: Union apprenticeship. I did trade school on my own dime, at the time the locals weren't taking anybody. Now they are waking up to the fact that all their guys are retiring soon. 2: it's not a hard test. 3: depends on the trade school. some have better programs than others. ask the larger contractors in your area which ones they like to see. the smart companies will have reps on the program board, and will be scouting for talent and guiding the curriculum. 4: no. take care of yourself. a lot of guys in the trades with broke rear end bodies. 5: Construction sperience helps with the "how did this system get like this", when you are trying to figure out if it's a broken piece of poo poo due to: Neglect Incorrect Install Incorrect Engineering Assumptions All of the Above 6: Time is time, afaik. Have to ask your local.
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May 25, 2018 02:35
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as loving awesome as a minisplit that used water as the working fluid between indoor and outdoor units would be, I don't believe those are a thing. the First thing you should do is set your thermostat to Fan Always On mode, to help circulate the air through the problem room. If this room has attic space above it, make sure it is insulated. Large windows? check for infiltration and heat gain. as far as fans go, an exhaust fan or something probably wouldn't hurt either. edit: holy poo poo they do make chillers in minisplit sizes. still Do Not recommend it for hvac purposes though.
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Jun 2, 2018 00:07
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Unhelpful post: Lennox got better after they stopped trying to make Pulse furnaces work in residential applications. Pulse boilers in large commercial buildings work OK if you tear them down and inspect/replace the seals yearly. Not so much when joe homeowner neglects them for years on end. They also "special snowflake" compared to everything else on the market, so you really needed to RTFM or get training to work on them. None of that has anything to do with your situation. Really, there is very little difference with the design of modern residential equipment these days. They are all condensing, natural gas burning, forced draft, hot surface ignition, with aluminum coated steel heat exchangers. The major thing is if your installing contractor doesn't cut any corners and follows the manufacturer installation rules, and local building codes. I would pick the brand/installer that has better warranty guarantees.
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Jun 22, 2018 23:36
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Naffer posted:Second unrelated question: Is it possible that my air handler ductwork was put together such that I have no access panel to the coil? The system was running without a filter when I moved in and I want to check the coil for clogging, but there is no way in. It's pretty weird. Extremely common. The install guys ain't gonna be there several years later to clean it. So why bother? 
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Jun 30, 2018 16:39
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Vaporware posted:Sounds like low refrigerant pressure to me. Icing will slow the airflow. chicken/egg problem. no airflow can cause icing it could be a lot of usual suspect problems. dirty filter/coil dirty blower wheel low refrigerant charge. low outside ambient temp
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Jul 2, 2018 03:08
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Given what most places charge for a holiday service call, I wouldn't. I would stick the inlaws in a hotel if they can't suck it up, and start budgeting for a replacement.
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Jul 4, 2018 13:41
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Not Illegal, as your system is unlikely to hold more than 50lbs with a correct charge. I have several large commercial systems that have known leaks, but will not get repaired until later this month when I can safely shut them down. Many people in this industry like to use loose interpretations of EPA rules to browbeat clients. I can't say I haven't, in order to motivate people to actually fix stuff. Nobody is going to go chase after you, joe homeowner. It's up to what you think is right, and how much you can afford. That's why I recommended budgeting a replacement. The amount of r22 you leak is insignificant
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Jul 6, 2018 00:29
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You are making the assumption that your total External Static Pressure is 0.5. Unless that's a value you actually measured, your blower isn't working at that pressure, nor giving you that many CFM. But let's assume you have an ideal installation, and you are at approximately 0.5 You want 400CFM a ton. Maybe 350 for humid areas. That puts you under at 2/4. Assuming the 3/4 tap gives you 2k cfm, that might work, some boards you can wire to run the same tap for both heat and cool.
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Jul 6, 2018 22:45
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Jaweeeblop posted:With r22 being phased out in a year and a half quote:R22 is going to continue climbing exponentially in price for the next few years. Imma stop you right there, because this is exactly what I meant by the FUD surrounding EPA phase-outs. What is actually happening is R-22 will be unlawful to Produce or import. So unless your name is Chemours, Arkema, or Honeywell (all of whom are ahead of the game and want R22 gone.) You have nothing to worry about. Your household system will not be "illegal" Recharging it will not be illegal. Repairing it (or not) will not be illegal. Buying existing stock of R22 will not be illegal. Yes, the price of 22 will rise a bit, as supply decreases, but recovery and recycling of r22 is also not illegal, so there will be a supply available for the (already declining) demand. You can still buy R-12 on ebay. Yeah the price is higher than in the 1960s. So is milk and gasoline. There's also 32 Flavors of R-22 replacement refrigerants, for all applications. Anyone telling you "R-22 will be illegal" just wants to sell you a new system, because he's too lazy to fix yours. you should buy a new system
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Jul 10, 2018 00:35
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Yeah sorry, that post was aimed at all the lurkers reading the thread. Yes you, sweaty broken AC goon. I know you're out there. Every time I hear the phrase "R22 will be phased out", 9/10 the person hearing it equates that with "R-22 is now like HEROIN and PCP And the feds will come to my house and rip out my air conditioner". It's a colossal communications failure on the part of the EPA, and a lot of people take advantage of it to scam other people.
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Jul 10, 2018 01:42
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The advantage of inverter-driven ductless systems like that Freidrich J system, is that they can modulate themselves down if the load isn't very high. They're great for contractors (and customers) because there's no such thing as oversizing a unit, which can happen with standard on/off systems. so you size it up a bit to avoid "under performing unit" callbacks, and the magickal box inside regulates the cooling or heating power to whatever is needed. So that unit would probably work, but yeah you probably don't actually need two full tons. That said, find someone to do an actual load calc.
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Sep 21, 2018 22:01
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Harveygod posted:That looks like the return duct. They don't blow hot air, they suck air back in to be warmed. This. The "cold" ducts are Returns. they bring air back to the furnace.
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Oct 13, 2018 02:03
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Jealous Cow posted:Aprilaire 600 humidifier question: Nah, that works. The humidifier shouldn't be running when your furnace isn't anyway, unless you live in the desert or something. use some plumbers putty or something if the hole not being sealed bothers you.
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Oct 15, 2018 22:42
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Qwijib0 posted:the lack of foresight needed to get to that point is amazing. unfortunately not. commonplace.
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Nov 6, 2018 14:07
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Crotch Fruit posted:I have a voltmeter and probes, but I'm not certain I have enough skill to comprehend the circuit diagram enough to troubleshoot the board. As much as I would like to try to DIY it more, I would also like to not see my breath when I get out of bed in the morning. Hell, even that wouldn't bother me so much if I didn't have a 4 year old and 2 year old that love to kick their blankets off at night regardless of how cold it gets. In addition, the next thing I need to troubleshoot is a gas fireplace. . . Eventually a technician is supposed to show up sometime later tonight, hopefully not under the $$$emergency rate$$$. you need to hold the pilot down until the thermocouple heats up and it stays lit by itself. as for your furnace, you probably want to clean that flame rod.
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Nov 14, 2018 00:36
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You have an airflow problem. It's not something we can easily solve via internet. I can give you a list of stuff to check, half of which you will probably not possess the equipment to measure. Your only real choices are to either keep calling them back until they solve it, find someone else who can, or replace the furnace, which if it was able to vote in the midterms may be a good move.
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Nov 27, 2018 04:32
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Is your blower running, in the right direction, and are the blades on the wheel clean.
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Jan 26, 2019 18:51
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Afaik The big difference between "laboratory use" and "hvac" vac pumps is duty cycle. Lab pumps are supposed to run continuously for months at a time, hvac ones are field devices, maybe a few days at a go. Permanent lab setups also usually have filters and fluid separators before the pump to keep the oil clean. As far as noise goes, styrofoam hut, and pipe the exhaust out is my recommendation. I have a fieldpiece vp85 that i find a bit quieter than most standard pumps, but i cant give you a db comparison. 90% of the time they shove these things in an insulated mechanical closet, or in our case its a temp setup to get an ac unit working.
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Jan 28, 2019 17:38
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Also a quick addendum, for your application more CFM does NOT = more better. For automotive ac and small lab applications, you will spend so little time in gas evacuation, anything over 6cfm is a waste of money. Oh and buy a micron gauge.
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Jan 29, 2019 04:16
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Some pics: If you do have the change for a completely new fan, they do wonderful things with blade geometry these days. If you can find a nametag on the old fan, you may be able to come up with a CFM rating to compare replacements with. Even if it doesn't match the hole in the side of the building, you can get sheet metal adapter. Otherwise, take an amp draw of the motor, and if you are below FLA, get an adjustable sheave for the motor shaft, and increase the driving diameter until you are getting the max hp for your motor. 
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Feb 28, 2019 01:25
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Intermittent lockout issues are not something we can diagnose over the INTERNET. It could be all, none, or a combination of the things you listed. is the control board giving you flash codes? That said, the unit is 30 years old. If you lived anywhere but socal, it would have gotten replaced years ago.
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Mar 1, 2019 23:58
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Static pressure is the "resistance" to airflow the fan has to push against. So you have described you are running this to move air through a steel shelled worksop, where is the air entering the space? Is there a large door or window that will be open while this fan is running? The reason i ask: the larger your air intake, the lower your static pressure, the closer the fan will operate to its "rated" cfm.
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Mar 28, 2019 03:22
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The windows will be fine, i was just checking you weren't running this thing against an airtight building and expecting results. Like i suggested previously, i would try to find out what the old fans cfm rating was and go up from there.
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Mar 28, 2019 04:27
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Fan relays are cheap, callbacks are not.
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Mar 29, 2019 21:40
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Apr 5, 2019 21:19
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SpartanIvy posted:So tldr: clean your loving condenser cooling fins. Carefully, don't blast it with the hose. and turn the power off first.
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Apr 7, 2019 04:57
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Airflow. Change the filter, dont' use a high merv, is the blower wheel dirty on the blades?
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May 26, 2019 14:41
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Yes, No, you're looking at the fan that moves air inside, because you thought it was insufficient. It would be on the unit inside.
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May 26, 2019 14:46
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non comedy option: The HVAC Thread: Please change the filter
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May 30, 2019 12:44
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I just drove for two hours to tell someone that. Also a belt.
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May 30, 2019 23:55
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check to make sure the contactor pads aren't toast. but It's probably too late at this point.Mr.Popadopolis posted:*Thoughts on buying a used condenser? If the person who did the disconnection wasn't an idiot, what're the risks? That it ran for years with unclean coils, filter, marginal run capacitor. The 800 you save is not really worth the risk, unless you're flipping this property soon. Wowporn posted:Would this be an okay place to ask about dinky little window units? Glancing through a couple pages it feels like this thread is mostly about big fancy central air projects but I couldn’t find anywhere that made more sense
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Jun 9, 2019 19:37
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the EERs of both window and portables are not great, I use a portable because in northern climates getting units in and out of windows sucks. at your latitude you won't notice the difference in efficiency. Portables are much easier to deal with, just a bit more finicky to set up. I recommend splurging on a two-hose unit if you can. Taking room air for the condenser just pulls outside air in somewhere else.
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Jun 10, 2019 00:59
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RH is very expensive to measure with extreme accuracy. Question for you: You're using ecobees, what is your cooling threshold set at? Your units may be short cycling, or at lest not running long enough to make a dent in the humidity level of the space. If you don't need precision temp control (you don't), I would recommend setting the cooling threshold to 1.5 degrees or higher, so the units run longer and have more time to pull water out of the air. Other settings you may want to play with: overcool: the higher the better. minimum on/off times if you are in auto heat/cool, make sure you have a large enough split between the heat/cool setpoints. Note: all of the above will cause more energy use. the ecobee is set up by default to save you energy. MRC48B fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Jun 28, 2019 |
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Jun 28, 2019 23:12
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