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Is that 5 amp fuse intact?
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Sep 29, 2016 11:42
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You can get little portable dehumidifiers with wither a tank you empty periodically or attach a hose to a drain. I think you'd want to try one of those as a first step.
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Nov 28, 2016 00:47
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That would come in around an 8 SEER. I wouldn't suggest you should count on that lasting much longer but it happens. I'm out of residential stuff these days but I saw an 1984 system in 2016. Alot depends on the install location and maintenance. Did you have it serviced and the pressures checked? Are there obvious signs of deterioration?
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Jan 6, 2017 01:10
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Seems pretty reasonable to plan a replacement; you'll probably see a number of improvements. You might get more service out of what you have, maybe years, but it's a lot nicer to do replace it when you choose rather than when it chooses.
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Jan 6, 2017 06:43
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I hadn't bought R-22 in a while and was a little alarmed by the price from my contractor who just swapped out two Bitzer screws for me at work, but apparently I was getting quite a deal! Is $770 for 30 pounds retail the real world we're living in or do I need to shop around? I just have one small building so I don't need it often enough to buy bulk, but all our equipment is 22. I guess it's time for me to do my homework on drop-in replacements, huh?
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Jan 9, 2017 23:34
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R22, chlorodifluromethane, has been the most common residential refrigerant for the last 30 years or so. It's an HCFC with less ozone depletion potential than dichlorodifluromethane, R12 and a CFC, but has pretty massive global warming potential. It's been phased out on a timeline established by the Montreal protocol in the early 90s.
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Jan 25, 2017 03:14
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Alereon posted:Don't those UV sterilizers produce toxic levels of ozone? I don't have firsthand experience with them but my filter guy does installs in hospitals and pharmaceutical facilities so either their don't or it can be mitigated enough to not affect the most sensitive people/equipment. If the UV isn't a workable option, which I couldn't say, the traditional fix is to cut access so that you can clean the coil easily enough to do it regularly.
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Apr 6, 2017 02:23
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Regular no-rinse evap coil cleaner has always worked fine where I've been working, but they do make specialty mold products. I'd try a non-acid no-rise evaporator coil cleaner first and see what kind of results you get. I'm not sure what is available in regular hardware stores, but I don't think it would be too difficult or expensive to track down something on the internet if you don't have anything local. Just abide the MSDS warnings as they are usually moderate alkaline.
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Apr 7, 2017 14:51
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Molybdenum posted:how many actual different manufacturers of HVAC units are there? I'm talking gas/electric furnaces/ac combos for residential use. There are about 5 or 6 manufacturers of HVAC equipment in the US sold under different brand names. UTI is the megacorp that makes Carrier, Bryant, Payne, Tempstar, and some more. Other groups are York/Luxaire/Coleman; Goodman/Amana/Janitrol; Rheem/Ruud; Lennox/Armstrong; Trane/American Standard; Frigidaire/Gibson/Mammoth, etc. It's been 15 years since I did any residential installs so I've lost track of a lot of it.
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Feb 4, 2018 17:33
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Jaweeeblop posted:Also $22 per pound seems pretty high. Supply houses here in San Antonio are at $475 per 30lb cylinder. I guess this is pretty local. DC was $575ish last fall for me. The price my mechanical contractor was getting buying 100s was only a little better, too.
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Jul 9, 2018 12:40
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Pimblor posted:I like to sleep cold, and I set my newly installed (like within this month) 3 ton Goodman to 68 before I went to bed, I woke up and it's 100% humidity out and the house is 70%. The pan water sensor was red so I used a rag to sop up some of the water and it kicked back on. But I just noticed there's no gravity drain at all for the pan itself. Is this normal? I seem to recall the old unit they had plumbed in a drain for the unit and the pan. Should the installer fix this or am I stuck with leaving a cheap wet dry vac in the attic? You need a condensate drain, either gravity or a pump, and the installer should have hooked one up. It is a ridiculous for them to have overlooked that.
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Jul 24, 2018 13:18
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There should be a wiring diagram for your unit on the back of the cover door. There will be a box with the codes for your unit that explains what they mean. An installation manual I searched up that may be the right model suggests 2 blinks is a pressure switch issue, but you should check that your model uses the same codes to be sure. The first thing the furnace does should be turn on the draft fan. Before the gas ignites do you hear the draft fan start? If you do, it is probably a pressure switch that needs to be replaced. If you don't, it's probably the draft fan/assembly that needs to be replaced. It could also be a relay on the control board.
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Nov 13, 2018 19:32
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Crotch Fruit posted:I do hear a fan start before ignition, and after ignition sometimes it hums along as if everything is OK, but sometimes the flame light blinks rapidly and the flame goes away immediately. I did find the circuit diagram with blink codes. For the OK (green) LED - on is normal, 1 blink = 1hr lockout, 2 = pressure switch stuck open, 3 = limit switch open, 4 = pressure switch stuck closed 5 = twinning fault (I'm don't even know what twinning is). For the flame LED, off = no flame, rapid = unexpected flame, slow = marginal flame, steady = normal flame. I believe it blinked 4 times rapidly before shutting off, I think it was an unexpected flame but that seems a little odd that would occur right after a call for heat. You may need someone to look at the control board. If you know what you're doing you can poke around with a meter and check the flame sensor, etc. If you're not up for it or don't have a meter with micro amps, you can turn off the power and do the basics before calling; make sure the board is seated right and all the connections are good, and make sure the flame sensor is well located in the flame.
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Nov 13, 2018 23:29
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Crotch Fruit posted:The current filter was installed about 1.5 months ago, I think it might have been $15 at Wal-mart, it's a Filtrete Merv 9. Right now the thing is extremely gray and also bowing a bit from the suction. . . The last filter that was in the unit lasted em, about a year if you can count being sucked through to a point of nearly jamming the blower motor as "lasting". I suspect vast quantities of unfiltered air have passed through my HVAC system, the tech did check the AC coils and said they looked fine. I will go buy a cheap minimum legal qualification of a filter to try to test the air flow again. My furnace is 13 years old and thus not legally illegible to vote in the midterms. A filter should be changed well before it bows from air pressure. If you went from a fiberglass to a pleated you'll have to change the filter more often. A year is probably too long for most people anyway. Also, don't ever hire that HVAC company again.
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Nov 27, 2018 13:11
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Crotch Fruit posted:I will admit that I went far too long on the previous filter that was left in for a year. I think turning up the blower might have been what caused my filter to bow this time. Is it realistic to assume that leaving the old filter in too long might have caused there to be more dust in the house lesdi gto clogging the new filter early? How should I determine the amount of airflow necessary for my system? The main thing that causes unexpected filter problems in my experience is switching from fiberglass or washable to pleated, which will almost always need a more frequent interval. Otherwise, getting new pets, leaving windows open a lot, or sometimes landscaping changes can add load to the filter. Somebody also told me recently that the wildfire smoke can load up a filter, but I have no experience with that. You'll have to feel it out for a little while, but just check visually. I've had some places that if I wasn't there 4 weeks to the day it would freeze up and I'd get a service call anyway (doctor's office lobby), and others where I was changing it just on principle after a year. When it starts to look loaded up and not just stained with dirt, it definitely needs to be changed.
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Nov 27, 2018 14:57
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th vwls hv scpd posted:Since the discussion here with pleated filters has me a little concerned since my unit is from the mid-90s, is a pleated filter that you replace monthly during the summer and every other month in the winter acceptable? If you haven't had problems, then it's probably fine. The main things are you don't want to run without a filter and get your coil/heat exchanger dirty, you don't want to restrict airflow and freeze up the coil with a clogged filter, and you really don't want to get the filter so dirty that it gets sucked into the blower and breaks stuff and also dumps the dirt into the system. e: Honestly the best you can hope for from lots of people is that they remember they have a filter a couple times a year or have a seasonal service visit in Spring and Fall. Quarterly changes are usually recommended, but sometimes that's more than you need and sometimes it's too little.
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Dec 1, 2018 01:52
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skipdogg posted:My pan has an overflow switch that kills the system if it gets tripped. This is correct. You need a trap on the condensate like or the system will suck (potentially nasty) air in through the drain and prevent water flowing out.
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Jun 26, 2019 11:53
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devicenull posted:What's that thing in the first picture on the far left? It says OPEN, is that a fresh air intake that's stuck open? It certainly looks like a ventilation damper wide open.
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Jun 27, 2019 23:43
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Keep in mind if you have an R22 system that refrigerant keeps going up in price like crazy. A couple pounds might cost a few hundred dollars these days, depending on where you are.
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Jul 12, 2019 16:19
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Can homeowners legally buy r-22? I honestly don't know. I always have to put my epa card on file wherever I've bought but that seems obvious for commercial stuff.
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Jul 3, 2020 04:43
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kastein posted:Honestly what's really needed is a standard for communications between thermostats, other sensor devices, indoor units, outdoor units, in duct blowers, surge heaters, dampers, etc. Something like CAN would be a great physical layer for it, then stack standardized packet formats on top of it for each control type and allow full configuration so each indoor unit/booster/damper knows which thermostats tell them to do what, different brands of equipment could be used together more effectively, etc. Unfortunately I'm sure there would be a lot of resistance to such an idea in the industry because everyone's already got their own proprietary ecosystem they want to sell you, and they like that it doesn't work with anyone else's stuff, and love 24vac dumb controls even if a single point of failure can burn up a piece of equipment like motronic described, because it means not having to learn any new tech and being able to sell the replacement unit. Even though that system was designed to work with non modulating 60% efficient oil furnaces in 1955 or whatever and has been poorly extended and added to since then, while still not really adapting well to modern modulating furnaces and chillers, or horror of horrors, both in one system and the user wanting the system to just do what's needed to maintain temp without having to flip a heat/cool switch. Something like that exists for commercial stuff.
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Dec 9, 2020 00:24
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As a point of reference, I looked at my latest indoor air quality survey for my commercial office building and the ASHRAE recommendation is a maximum limit of 700 above the ambient outside air level. That puts a recommended upper limit approximately between 950-1050. I would expect residential recommended levels would not be higher than that, and possibly lower. Though, as already noted, in practice levels above the recommended limit are probably not uncommon.
glynnenstein fucked around with this message at 16:29 on May 25, 2021 |
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May 25, 2021 16:26
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RoboChrist 9000 posted:I don't care about that minor nuisance. I care about COVID. Replacing the one-hose portable AC with a two-hose portable unit or a window unit will help with your negative pressure. Consider a small stand-alone HEPA filter air purifier - one with a charcoal filter will help a little with smoke smell as a bonus. IMO these, and doing what air sealing you can, are the changes that are practical for you to make, though they may be of limited effectiveness. The stuff I've seen about reliably effective HVAC approaches to covid mitigation are all mostly beyond DIY means and tend to be expensive - the two main ones being maximizing air changes and high MERV filtration.
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Jun 15, 2022 14:32
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Slugworth posted:Oh, I didn't mean to sound too whiney/outraged about the price, I just wanted to get a better idea of what was involved. If was correctly diagnosed as a bad switch and isn't actually low on refrigerant or has a fast leak, you probably don't have to rush; however, as long as the switch is jumped out you lack some protection against causing a much more expensive repair.
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Jun 24, 2022 18:51
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I don't know if I'd call duct work easy. I suppose flex duct is easy, but with rigid back when I was helping out with residential installs a couple decades ago, we never regretted paying a few hundred to have a sheet-metal guy do that stuff for us. There's an art to doing it fast and neat.
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Aug 5, 2022 15:30
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 19:51 |
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Dr. Eldarion posted:Had an HVAC guy out here to do an annual furnace inspection / maintenance, and he said the inducer motor is going. The furnace is 11 years old and out of warranty. It's a Rheem high efficiency variable speed system. (I can get the model number if it helps) I'm almost 2 decades out of doing any residential stuff so what the gently caress do I know, but that seems like it's in the neighborhood of 10x of what I'd expect the part to cost.
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Oct 13, 2023 19:52
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