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Alereon posted:Late edit: I guess the real answer is to get an Ecobee, it just chafes that this drat thing should be smart enough to do what I want, except everything about its functionality is so drat opaque. As someone with heat pumps and ecobees, you really should. They allow you to be very spergy about the aux heat settings and the graphs and monitoring in the web portal is very useful for tweaking them. I have our max aux heat set to 28f and aux heat temp differential set to 2f, so it wont' come on at all unless its <28 outside and >2f below the set point inside. I found it was better to do that and barely turn the heat down at night (70 daytime, 68 night) than do a big setback and have it run for hours trying to bring the house back up to temp. If your coil is upstream of the aux heat strips in the air handler, ecobee will also allow you to run the aux heat and compressor simultaneously which supposedly helps efficiency a bit.
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Jan 12, 2017 22:50
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 19:41 |
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If it seems fairly certain that the current system is correctly sized, are those calculations still necessary? We have 2x 2.5 ton heat pumps, the upstairs one works hard in the summer, the downstairs one in the winter. On our hottest days (100-105f) , the upstairs unit keeps up but may be running nearly all of the time. I don't think a smaller unit could handle it, and a bigger one doesn't seem necessary. The upstairs unit is pretty old (Trane XR12 with R22) so I've been half expecting it to require replacement for the last few years. I'd be ok dropping another 2.5 Ton system in unless there's a good reason to have a contractor run load calculations.
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Jul 28, 2020 16:37
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We've gotten some heat pump quotes over the last few weeks to replace our upstairs system which is a 16 year old 2 ton Trane with R22. They're remarkably similar, for 14 SEER single stage plain jane replacements I was quoted $7750 for Lennox and $7500 for Carrier, both including air handler, new lineset, drain pan etc. I liked the carrier guy better and they're a smaller/more local company with stellar reviews so will probably just go with them. Am posting the pricing here because hard numbers can be useful, we're in Maryland which is a fairly high cost area. I did discover MR COOL does a 20 SEER inverter based DIY central heat pump system with air handler, but I'm nowhere near brave enough to mess with fabricating ducting etc and somehow hauling the air handler into our attic. $3300 shipped is a sweet deal though, perhaps someone here is mad enough to give it a try.. https://mrcool.com/mrcool-universal-series-dc-inverter-heat-pump-air-conditioner-split-system/ sanchez fucked around with this message at 02:46 on Jul 22, 2021 |
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Jul 22, 2021 02:43
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beepsandboops posted:I live in a temperate climate. I'm planning on getting a heat pump and have received conflicting info from vendors about whether I need a backup heat source (i.e., whether I need to keep my gas furnace). I live in the mid-atlantic where a heat pump works ok (temps below 20f are rare) and I'd still run a straight gas furnace with an AC unit for summer if we had natural gas service available. Why the heat pump? Gas is cheap & you don't need to worry about an outdoor unit being clogged up by snow or freezing rain. It also meant the occasional polar vortex cold snap was NBD.
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Aug 2, 2021 03:12
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Anyone have experience with central heat pump to warm air system in places that get below freezing? I would get gas every time unless for some weird reason it'd be significantly more expensive. Your vent temperatures with gas will be much higher, heat pumps can feel like they're blowing a cool draft. Gas will work even when it's very cold and you won't have to worry about the outdoor unit getting clogged up with ice, sleet or snow. We have heat pumps and a few times a year I have to go outside to knock the ice off them in the middle of the night, especially during freezing rain. You can also run a gas furnace on a small generator, if power outages are a thing where you are.
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Dec 1, 2021 02:49
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ohhyeah posted:Heat pump question: so I have a Rheem 1.5 ton 14 seer heat pump (RP1418BJ1NA to be precise) as the primary heating for my townhouse, with only electric heating as a backup. Does the heat pump have a minimum temperature it’s safe to run at? I’ve set the thermostat to use the heat pump while the outside temperature is over 25F, but could I just set it to zero and not worry? This is in northern Virginia where it may get into single digits once a year. I live in MD and have our auxiliary/electric heat locked out above 23f and the heat pump locked out below 10f. So above 23f is 100% heat pump, between 10f and 23f is heat pump plus aux as needed and below 10f is purely electric. Ecobee thermostats handle this kind of thing really well. The heat pumps don't seem to do much once it gets into the teens outside. I figured out the 23f setting by some trial and error, below that temp our heat pumps in our house cannot keep up anymore. It is the most efficient configuration. The setting you have will work but you're missing out on some cheaper heat pump warmth. Unless you have a weird setup I imagine your system is similar to ours and does not need any kind of manual intervention to switch from heat pump to resistive, you should be able to set and forget. sanchez fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Jan 7, 2022 |
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Jan 7, 2022 01:28
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