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The other downside is that it will fail at the least opportune time. I've considered keeping a spare...got lucky that when mine failed the weather was fair, and I had the luxury of waiting on Prime two-to-infinity day shipping.
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Jan 1, 2018 19:30
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I wouldn't add a heat exchanger to the existing forced air a/c, the blower fan isn't designed for that additional restriction. Where are you located?
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Jan 4, 2018 05:16
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The only thing they refuse to sell me (and in one case wouldn't even give a price for), was actual hvac equipment itself. I've purchased tools, capacitors, a drain pan and float switch, with no issues as a cash sale at both Johnstone and Baker Bros.
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Jan 11, 2018 20:08
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There's also the portable AC unit option. They aren't super effective, but may work well as additional cooling in such a small space LG LP0817WSR 115V Portable Air Conditioner with Remote Control in White for Rooms up to 150-Sq. Ft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBF75QJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fWSeBbWRYZYK4
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Jun 2, 2018 17:59
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Y'all are being awful dire. Let it melt (fan on, AC off), then run it less so it doesn't freeze up and get a service call tomorrow after the holiday and see if the refrigerant is actually low before you decide to R&R the whole thing. Or I dunno, call around and a service call may be the same or less than a hotel room at a holiday rate and get it looked at today. How low did you have it set when you let it run all night, and what indoor temp did you wake up to?
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Jul 4, 2018 15:23
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STR posted:I'm no expert, and I know this is just a temporary install (... on ~35-40 year old apartment building), but goddamn, it ain't pretty. It looks downright Payneful. I'd say that's a neat solution to Carrier them over until the new concrete pad cures. Whoever came up with that is a Goodman.
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Jul 9, 2018 17:38
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STR posted:I mean, they certainly did make it a bit more Comfortmaker. It's been hot as Heil here lately, hopefully they didn't get Rheemed too bad on that work. I'm sure it will be fine, they are obviously very well Traned. When you stay in an apartment and don't have to cover major property repairs, well that's just the Frost King on the cake.
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Jul 17, 2018 05:01
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I wanted to do something with Lennox, but couldn't make it work anywhere. just like the real thing. 
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Jul 17, 2018 05:15
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Yeah I'm sure everyone is just scrolling past. 
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Jul 17, 2018 05:28
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Jaxyon posted:It's hot as balls in Los Angeles, any good guides on how to use my central air most efficiently? My personal temp settings which are a compromise between efficiency, recovery time, and comfort 7:30am-6pm: 78° 6pm-11pm: 74° 11pm-7:30am: 73° (but in the cooler months sometimes bump it down to 72° because it doesn't run as much and gets humid.) The heat pump has an easier time reaching its setpoint at night, and we're not home during most days so I try to work that to my advantage. Even on very hot days, it takes quite a while for the house to warm up from 73° so it doesn't run much during the daytime.
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Jul 26, 2018 21:59
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It sounds like you need a better company for service, but "hard start caps" are also called "compressor savers" and they are very much a good thing. It definitely didn't kill your old cap, and $300 to swap it is absolutely ridiculous. Good luck with your troubles. It's really difficult to find a good tech.
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Aug 7, 2018 04:27
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Hey all, control wiring question. I have an older Trane heat pump with electric backup heat that I want to install a new Honeywell 2 heat 1 cool tstat on. I've found some reference online to what I've got but want to double check. On the old tstat, I think B is common, X2 is emergency heat, W is aux heat because Trane.  So on the new modern Honeywell - R- red C - grey O - orange G - green Y - yellow W2 - white E - black And cap off the brown (outdoor tstat, not used). Yes/no? Edit: well it appears to work fine! angryrobots fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Dec 6, 2018 |
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Dec 5, 2018 22:08
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Hi all, more Trane questions. Went over to the house-for-sale to find the condenser unit a block of ice, with the unit running in heat with the condenser fan not running. After eliminating a bad cap or locked up fan, I attempted to test for voltage at the fan and found that by moving the fan control relay on the defrost board, the fan would instantly kick on. Initially, I misdiagnosed this as a loose fan wire, as it was not plugged in all the way and after defrosting/power cycling the unit cut on in heat mode fine.... But at the first defrost cycle again the fan did not cut back on after switching back to heat. So first of all, the defrost board is bad (well specifically the fan control relay is hanging up), and I shouldn't need to further diagnose, yeah? And second of all, here's my board:  Is this replacement board gonna work? It's listed as replacing a long list of model #'s, and I noticed it only has the moly plug and not the extra plugs my old Trane has. My gut is that these are extra coil temp sensors and a thermistor for the old manual tstat (replaced with digital) and not needed, but I'd appreciate a confirmation of that. I'm going to run to a local HVAC supplier tomorrow and check their price, and I have a feeling they will have the same or a similar part in stock.
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Jan 16, 2019 02:07
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Probably a good option, but I neither trust my soldering, or my diagnosis that it's definitely the relay (as opposed to some other bad connection or part on the board) since I dunno how to verify control voltage with the relay in place. Also, the house is pending sale and will be scheduled for an inspection anytime so I need it fixed ASAP.
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Jan 16, 2019 13:25
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Well my local supplier doesn't carry Trane poo poo, apparently they keep it on lock down locally so you have to call the Trane authorized repair place.  So I Amazon'ed it with expedited shipping.
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Jan 16, 2019 16:13
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Exciting update - installed new board Friday, left it all weekend during freezing temps, 25°F the last two nights. Checked it today and no ice on the condenser, and happily 65°F inside. The replacement board did have pins for all plugs except for the T1 thermistor which is unused (though, interestingly it did have a spot on the board labeled T1, but no prong). A++ would install internet parts again.
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Jan 22, 2019 17:10
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Jerk McJerkface posted:Curious why possibly six? Wouldn't it cut out at the main setting (2) plus the dial (1)=3psi? Are you thinking the number on the white dial is six? I think he's saying that someone could have wound it past 5, since it doesn't look like it has a stop.
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Feb 22, 2019 21:13
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Following up on this, as I'm looking at replacement fans, does static pressure matter at all if I'm just trying to exhaust the hot air from the building/generate through air flow? Should I just be looking at CFM at 0" static pressure or is there a certain amount I should be looking for? Math says the building is around 75,000 cu. ft. so I've been looking at something 15-20000 CFM for a 3-4 minute air change. I have a 40x60 uninsulated metal building in SC with no afternoon shade. It has a gable end fan that works and moves a lot of air - the walk though door is on the opposite end so can prop that open and move air across the whole space. Frankly it makes little difference in the worst part of the summer. Our shop at work is exactly the same as mine, but fully insulated and that makes a huge difference.
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Mar 28, 2019 04:33
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The fact that cycling the breaker kicked it on while the tstat was already commanding the fan to run probably indicates a weak cap.
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Mar 29, 2019 20:50
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What's the low pressure line at the condenser feel like?
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Apr 5, 2019 19:41
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It doesn't necessarily mean there's a leak. I would stop trying to run the system and call for service. Edit - yeah a massive supply air leak is an issue, though I'm not entirely sure that's your only issue. I guess patch that and see how it goes?
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Apr 6, 2019 01:13
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Exactly what is loose on your duct work? Is it not attached to the unit?
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Apr 7, 2019 03:34
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SpartanIvy posted:90% mastic by volume New thread title?
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Apr 7, 2019 05:36
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Just since you didn't mention it - you have checked/changed the filter at some point right?
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May 26, 2019 18:34
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The HVAC Thread - It's called refrigerant
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May 30, 2019 12:56
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Jaded Burnout posted:"No returns" No returns, supplies are limited
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May 30, 2019 23:02
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Have you verified that the compressor is getting sufficient voltage?
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Jun 9, 2019 17:18
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How much does the unit cycle outside of 4-9pm? What's your "away" settings? Have you tried adjusting your "away" temp to run the unit a little more and see if the humidity drops? Have any of the techs checked that the air handler units are leveled properly and draining condensate the way they're supposed to?
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Jun 19, 2019 20:05
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For that kind of runtime, imo yeah that's an oddly high indoor humidity level. I would like to check the air handlers, at least look at them and make sure the external catch pans are dry. Also the tech checked that the fresh air system is "working" I know, but was he able to verify that the damper is fully closed and sealing well? Or did he just check that it wasn't being commanded to open?
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Jun 19, 2019 22:50
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But when you disabled it, was the damper open or closed? Set it to like 40% and see what happens.
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Jun 28, 2019 01:59
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Gotcha. Just noting that the HVAC tech (or whoever "they" is) had it set to 60% which is the same reading you mentioned it hasn't dropped below. I would definitely drop the setpoint of the fresh air system to whatever humidity level you want it to be, as a start. Assuming the damper is operating, you should be able to get to the fresh air intake (does it have it's own air filter?) and test for airflow using something like tissue paper. Also, yeah the condensate drain clean out things need to be capped. You shouldn't have conditioned air blowing into the attic space. I don't think this is the cause of your humidity issue in total, but it could be a contributor. Whatever volume is blowing out into the attic, the same is being drawn inside the living space from outside.
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Jun 28, 2019 04:51
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^^^^^quoting this post from him earlier. I think you are probably correct about the ecobee settings based on the morning runtimes, but IMO it is also fighting the fresh air system. It's like the worst of both worlds  .skipdogg posted:Maybe this house will be different, but want to make sure I'm not missing something. That system was arguably undersized for the house though. It ran non stop most summer days.
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Jun 28, 2019 23:51
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The existing 220v line won't work. In fact, most whole house services won't be enough for a tankless electric. If you're serious about it you need to call an electrician first because your biggest expense will be getting that upgraded. Also your utility service itself may be insufficient, efb
angryrobots fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Aug 22, 2019 |
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Aug 22, 2019 16:30
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I bet the dirty coil line is bullshit*, trying to push the blame a little on you. And that $/lb on refrigerant is absolutely ridiculous, especially considering it's a warranty repair on their own install. Let us know how it goes. *Edit- assuming you weren't blowing grass clippings at it, or have a dryer vent pointed directly at the coil. I do clean mine annually but most people don't and unless there's some reason it's getting extra trash in the coil, it probably doesn't make a huge difference. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Aug 29, 2019 |
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Aug 29, 2019 22:39
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WTF do you live on the edge of a quarry
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Aug 29, 2019 22:59
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MRC48B posted:Please don't tell people to use a pressure washer on the condenser. They will do it wrong and gently caress up the fins. That was my understanding as well. It's been a long time, but I still have night terrors from past experiences using a fin comb
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Aug 30, 2019 01:36
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Regarding the mini splits being pre-charged for a specific line set length - if you had the space to leave the excess line set rolled up in an inconspicuous area, is there any reason beyond efficiency loss to do so? Would the efficiency loss be more than negligible?
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Sep 3, 2019 01:30
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That must be a local thing, I used to use Ferguson exclusively cause they were the coolest and had free coffee. (Edit - they closed this location several years ago tho) Anyhow I've not had any issues with commercial counter sales, but there's a million fly by night HVAC guys here and I suppose dealing with individual sales has to be a good chunk of business.
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Sep 10, 2019 01:22
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He "thinks" the compressor wasn't on? And he had gauges on it?
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Sep 17, 2019 19:13
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"This line is cold." "Too cold."
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Sep 17, 2019 22:42
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