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Yeah, did that. My theory is that the clutch disk was stuck to the input shaft splines and not moving, or I did something stupid. If that doesn't work, I can always spend another couple hours trying to bleed it some more. The annoying thing is now I have the trans completely out, I'm tempted to throw the V6 STI trans in... except I don't have the torsen swapped in, the DCCD swapped in, and haven't opened it to check condition of things. But drat, it's sitting right there... Oh yeah, next time I work on the trans poo poo, I'm eliminating the stupid fake u-joint at the trans and replacing it with a helicopter joint, and probably machining delrin bushings for both ends of the stay rod. What a stupid place to put rubber, thanks Subaru.
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Dec 13, 2016 18:58
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Ha, I got the fucker working! Pulled the trans, pulled the clutch... splines got a little buggered and were sorta locked to the input shaft. Couldn't even put the clutch disc on by hand. Prooooobably I got a bit, uh, enthusiastic trying to put it together. Whoops. Cleaned up the burrs with a file, put it back together, voila, it works! Swapped the linkage from my V6 STI box too because the one on the WRX was roached. Much better! Except I forgot a few bodywork clips and had part of the plastic that goes under the nose of the bumper eject itself on the drive in to work today. Oh well, minor loss. Now to get back to AISS stuff! Hope to have it ready to ship Monday.
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Dec 15, 2016 15:12
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All right, did more stuff for Christmas aside from the AISS stuff. Took a couple pictures of that in progress so I'll post about *that*. A 3d printed Dickbutt, sitting on a 3d printed runner with 3d printed venting. The Dickbutt itself is about 3" tall as sitting.  The investment room! Also known as my kitchen. Why my wife lets me do stuff like this in the house I'll never know, but I'm glad she does. My investment recipe is 4 parts plaster, 4 parts sand, 3 parts water, by weight. At some point I'm going to go to goodwill or something and get an old eggbeater to stir it because I'm about tired of stirring this crap with a paint stirring stick. It's a bit more water than normal but that makes it runnier and a bit easier to work with.  One of the invested Dickbutts. Used an empty paint can from Home Depot to pour the stuff in - then will be popping it in a spare oven and baking at progressively higher temperatures until the water is baked out of the plaster and then the plastic is melted/burned out. Popped it in the oven this morning, will bake at 300F all day, then probably 500F tomorrow before firing up the foundry around 5pm.
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Dec 21, 2016 15:52
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Is crossposting bad form? This is in the blacksmithing thread too; let me know and I'll stop. That said, all right, where did I leave off...  So yeah, doing this at night in snow... lol Wisconsin. That's the foundry itself, which is built into an old hot water heater, with a furnace oil burner.  Melting scrap in... still my makeshift crucible, which is a goodwill purchased stainless sauce pot. Really sketchy. Oh well, I'll get lifters for the new crucible made soon.  Lid open with fire nice and visible. Kinda. My phone camera throws a shitfit over this stuff.  Post pour. Worrying because it didn't seem like stuff filled right... I tried going smaller on the vents and being lazy by feeding from the top instead of bottom, so I hope that doesn't bite me in the rear end.  I, uh, need to get the molten metal that spilled out of the bottom of the foundry. And get the bricks chunks that used to be spacers for the crucible out of there. Think I'm going to use a concrete drill to make a 1" or so drain hole in the middle of the bottom, then just fire it up and let it drain.  Can off of the plaster at work this morning... exciting...  A bunch of hammering later, and voila! Definitely had an air bubble on the back blocking flow in, and plaster cracked on one of them too. Oh well, oops, lessons learned.  You know, after a bit of filing and cleanup, those did not turn out badly. Next step is to get all the spilled aluminum out of the foundry, get real firebricks, maybe adjust some stuff on the burner, and I'm thinking then cast some 3d printer parts. Or a cylinder head, whatever.
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Dec 23, 2016 18:15
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OK, random bored-at-work post. AISS is over, so I'll post this here, installed in its new home:  I'm pretty pleased with how that came out. Actually talked to the guy who made the model and got permission to sell some cast ones (no it's not official FR merch, and it's not screen accurate so I think if I make sure to specify poo poo like "inspired by" I won't get C&D'd) so that'll be cool. Need to make a reusable mold because printing each copy would suck if I'm doing more than 1 or 2. I'll do an SA-MART post once I've got some to sell. Working on a new 3d printer too - a D-Bot for those of you who care. The plan is to cast all the plastic corners so the frame is all metal, do a few other minor changes, and scale it up to 2' (or 600mm for you metric folks) cubed. This should allow me to print, uh, well, pretty much anything I want. Pie in the sky project is Subaru EJ heads that don't suck. As intermediate steps, I'm going to work on some rotary intake manifolds, because there's a lot of styles that once existed that are out of production, and for that matter I bet some of the styles that used to exist could be better optimized. Well, and probably work on some other stuff, what the heck. Additionally, I've decided that I'm vaguely pissed at every active differential implementation that you can buy (so loving disappointed now that I figured out how the Focus RS works) so I'm thinking of making a cheap little test rig to measure output torque at a given speed given different inputs. This is another really pie in the sky thing though, because at the end of the day I'd need to get planetary gears cut. It would be cool to work up to a WRX-ish car that didn't have as many asinine compromises. Probably not going to get around to the full scale version but it's fun to learn.
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Jan 12, 2017 15:01
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Boredmusing... I've been doing back-of-napkin sketches for a while, but I think it may be possible to use a custom subframe and some other bits to convert a GD/GC to unequal length wishbones on all 4 corners without cutting the unibody. I need to take a tape measure and figure out if the geometry will work right (IE, it's pointless to do if the geometry will just be poo poo) but I'm starting to do rough drawings of stuff like the rear uprights. And hell, I have a GC sitting in my parent's field to do a mockup on...
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Jan 20, 2017 18:08
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http://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-293/scca-super-touring-u-build-992966/page15/ I think I found my "first good gearbox" solution for after I get pissed at RX-8 boxes.
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Jan 22, 2017 19:00
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No, actually, found a different "first good gearbox". Remembered the Mandeville-Leeson 5-speed we have in the barn. RX-7 smoothcase box with close ratio crashbox gears. Reworked to be a dogleg first and with a 2:1(ish) first gear and direct drive 5th. Perfect... or at least the most perfect gearbox I have sitting around. ... if I can get it to shift properly. But I think I have some ideas why it was getting stuck in gear. In other "oh god, I've lost my mind" news, I got frustrated with trying to find an affordable water brake to build an engine dyno, so I'm fabbing my own. What could possibly go wrong!? And yes, I want my own engine dyno badly enough to make one. (I realize I have a lot of ideas - this one I'm ordering steel for next payday)
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Feb 9, 2017 15:27
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Any thought on a eddy current brake dyno? Something like a bus brake unit.
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Feb 10, 2017 04:23
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Eddy current absorbers definitely work - the issue is they're not really designed for the kinds of RPM I want to use, and for a used unit there's a whole bunch of unknowns about which parts will be holding things back. Even most commercial eddy current dynos I've seen don't like high RPM.
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Feb 10, 2017 13:17
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 Simple looking paddle wheel - so what? Well, it's an assembly built out of parts that I made drawings for, all of which are self-jigging and easily manufacturable with tools I have. Yes, it's a weldment. Yes, I'm going to need to balance it. I'm designing around limits of around 600ft/lbs of torque and 15,000rpm - and before anyone does the math on horsepower capacity, no, it probably will not do both at the same time. I legitimately do not know what the actual absorber performance will be before I can test it, but equivalently sized commercial water brakes can dissipate around 800hp. Stuff I have in mind to do won't use more than about half of that for a while, so I feel like I'm being reasonably conservative. Well. As conservative as someone designing and building their own loving dyno.
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Feb 10, 2017 15:09
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Have you seen the thread on GRM from fujioko who built his own engine dyno? https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/fujioko-builds-a-low-buck-engine-dyno/87005/page1/ He did it so he could consistently test his lean-burn tuning on his B3-swapped Miata. The pump box(?) is from a boat engine builder and tops out at 200HP but the price seems right. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Feb 10, 2017 |
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Feb 10, 2017 15:20
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I have not seen that - I really might have to start following the GRM forum. I'm more or less copying a Stuska water brake that a friend of mine found used and built a functional engine dyno setup out of - I know the fundamental design is capable of responding to loads pretty quickly and after a few years I got tired of waiting for an opportunity find of a water brake at a price I can stomach.
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Feb 10, 2017 15:30
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Reading that thread, I do like a lot of the stuff that guy did. Personally though I don't want to be messing with gear reduction, and the water brake is nice and elegant in a way, as the working medium is the same as the coolant. Like, doing something like that hydraulic unit, you need to cool the fluid, which is another pain... water brake, all the energy goes straight into the water. Additionally, something leaks? It's just water. It's not going to break down or get contaminated or anything else, it's just water.
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Feb 10, 2017 17:04
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Bwah ha ha ha ha holy poo poo have I lost my mind. I just ebayed a National Instruments DAQ card to run this thing (and a lot of other things I have in mind actually). NI PCIe-6251 - which means 16x 16 bit analog inputs sampling at a total of 1.25 million samples per second, 2 16 bit analog outputs, and 24 digital I/O ports. $1700 card that I got for $230ish. Sucker will comfortably do just about... oh, anything I have in mind.
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Feb 13, 2017 19:14
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OK, so, been doing things in the background... got the steel order for the dyno impeller that I've been slowly machining, built a mini ITX computer to run the DAQ, worked out some high resolution printed versions of the skull to take silicone molds from for attempts at semi-mass-production, and got my fire suit / helmet / etc. This weekend, going to be at Midwestern Council's driving school. Hopefully it doesn't rain! NC MX-5 I'm sharing with my dad - built for SCCA T4 so not very modified but good place to get started. Freshly washed it even... uh, nevermind that I carefully positioned it to hide the dents. Going to have to work on the Subaru again soon - sounds like the center differential bearings are going, or at least the coast side. I mean, I could just put it on the rack, pull the extension housing off and swap bearings... but I've got a new (to me) transmission to go in anyway, why not do that?
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Apr 24, 2017 18:35
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Since I know basically nothing about building Miata's, I'm hoping you have some low-buck recommendations. We were given a close-to-free 1989 Miata. The goal is to build a very basic auto-x/HPDE car for friends who aren't experienced drivers. This is not being built for any class/competition, just for fun. We have no/low budget. Here's what I'm planning: 1) All fluids/filters 2) LSD (have one spare) 3) 15" Wheels/Tires (got a good deal from a friend) 4) 2001 calipers/rotors/master cyl 5) Bilstein struts/unknown springs (thanks UpGarage!) 6) Roll bar and hard top 7) Seat drop- several of us are 6'3" + 8) Remove everything unnecessary. We might even make it a trailer-only ride, but we'll see. And when we kill the 1.6, I have a nice S5 core and Rx-8 trans sitting around.
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Apr 24, 2017 18:51
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The nice thing about Miatas is that they're pretty well proven. IMO, the best Bilsteins off the shelf are the Mazdaspeed Miata ones - the valving is surprisingly good. The rest of the Bilsteins have worse valving but hey, the Spec Miatas use basically the worst valved Bilsteins and aren't that bad to drive. Usually they have circlip grooves on the bodies so you can get circle track aluminum sleeves and use cheap 2.5" coilover springs. That, 600lb/in 7" long front springs and 450lb/in 7" long rear springs are a pretty reasonable budget setup, along with a 24mm solid front sway bar and stock 11 or 12mm rear bar. Or 500/400, or 425/325 with 8" long springs, whatever. Spring and bar combinations around there should be balanced reasonably. 15" wheels are basically all that works for NA and NB Miatas. Because of crazy turbo guys, they're now available off the shelf in up to something like 15x10, and 245/40/15 tires. Spec Miatas run 15x7 and 205/50/15 which is fine too. Welcome to the world of relatively cheap tires. https://www.advanced-autosports.com/collections/roll-cages-and-accessories/products/spec-miata-floor-drop This is a nicely packaged lasercut setup to drop the seat pan and notch the trans tunnel for maximum driver fitment - one of the originators of this was Jim Drago, who is about 6'4 and hefty. I personally like Ultrashield rallysport seats; in 17" wide because I'm large. FIA style fiberglass or carbon seats are hard to do for big folks. Look into new front hubs/bearings - they're a wear item at track loadings and people regrease them with better grease to last longer. Not necessarily that bad, just they're a maintenance item and one of the few maintenance vices the things have.
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Apr 24, 2017 19:44
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What did I do this weekend? Why, I had a driver school where I got my novice competition license! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QoAqH1cRwI8 Part of one session - one of the early sessions where I was taking it relatively easy and not that confident yet in the car. Feel free to judge it terrible in your minds, I know I was leaving oodles on the table at that point, but holy poo poo, the whole day was a blast. Except the later parts where it was pouring down rain and barely above freezing in a car with no defogger, no roof, and tires with no tread. Still, got my competition license now and can go racing!
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May 1, 2017 03:10
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Next race is towards the end of May but dad's taking the car for that. Nothing that needs doing, which is nice, but I want to put a shift light on because the 11" steering wheel doesn't let me see the tach anymore. In the mean time, because I get bored at work, started designing a tube chassis 1st gen RX-7 in Solidworks. Going to be a good few years before that's ready (it's after the rotary Miata in the queue) but it's something entertaining to gently caress off doing at work. Also need to design a 3-piece 3-rotor e-shaft and bearing carriers for the non-20B irons... if I do the bearings how I intend it should have a lot more safe RPM potential than the real 20Bs.
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May 17, 2017 02:10
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Minor update - bought my parent's RX-8. They had gotten to looking at their collection of street cars, decided that they weren't driving it enough and were looking to sell... then checked what they're going for. I know, blah blah blah not turbo, whatever, I really love driving the thing, so they offered it to me for $2k, on a no-interest payment plan I jumped. Nice car to drive while I try to fix all the poo poo I've been putting off fixing on the WRX, including the center diff. 130k miles on the RX-8, original engine. Take that haters!
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May 30, 2017 15:17
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What year though, 2004?
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May 30, 2017 21:41
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MiniFoo posted:What year though, 2004? Yup.
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May 30, 2017 21:44
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mekilljoydammit posted:130k miles on the RX-8, original engine. Take that haters! So it's at end-of-life then?
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May 31, 2017 11:12
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Pomp and Circumcized posted:So it's at end-of-life then? Well, supposedly it should be on its 3rd engine by now. I mean, I may pick up a core, rebuild and port it and throw it in anyway because I like doing poo poo like that, but put it this way, I'll let you guys know the first time it fails to get me to work. I suppose I should take some pictures, but you all know what an RX-8 looks like, right?
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May 31, 2017 14:05
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I'd call that a pretty good deal, even if it is rusting into a few large pieces as I'd expect from a car that is in the upper midwest. What work does it need in order to be daily driver ready?
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May 31, 2017 18:37
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Nothing - I'm using it as my DD now. I may throw some Bilstein HDs at it in the near future as it's a little bouncy, and I think the muffler might need replacing or a new gasket somewhere, but it has newish tires, brakes were recently done, etc. Oh, and an S2 starter. Minimal rust - some surface rust around the pinch weld and wheel lips that I may take care of, but nothing bubbling.
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May 31, 2017 19:06
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Oh yeah, there was that IMSA GTU 914 that was at the track and I got a few pictures of it, plus a 1971 Lola Formula Super Vee (seriously, hilarious idea for a formula car) but those pictures are still on my phone. Instead, meet my new doggo, Gertrude McFuzz.  Pit mix of some sort, very chill, very friendly. Already responds well to leash and stuff.
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Jun 2, 2017 02:35
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 Took my work laptop home over the weekend, got a bit of work done. Heh heh heh. I know it's not like, essential I get this done for a while, but it's fun to get the big chunks hashed out.
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Jun 4, 2017 04:15
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Here, have some laughably crude overlays!  And yes, looking at it, I need to fiddle the rear tubes a bit.
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Jun 4, 2017 19:33
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Wow how am I just seeing this thread? So... how's that tube frame mock up work out for a Z? I'm asking... for a friend you see.
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Jun 5, 2017 16:32
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 Bit of an update - finished adding most of the safety structure (which is to say the round tube). extreme_accordion posted:Wow how am I just seeing this thread? The short answer is fine - it's basically a 90s vintage Trans Am Camaro/Corvette/Jaguar/etc tube chassis rescaled to go under a 1st gen RX-7, so there's no reason whatsoever it couldn't be rescaled for something else. Longer answer gets to specifics - I6s are likely going to be longer than a 3-rotor and the rear would have to be redone for anything other than a live axle, for example. But it's all just tube steel.
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Jun 5, 2017 17:01
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http://imgur.com/a/KdjF5 I'll link photos from my race weekend here too; just a "walking around taking pictures of stuff" thing. First race weekend was amazing. Holy crap, it's great to find out that all of this is as much fun as I thought. One thing that it cemented though is that I think a synchro box might be OK with some tweaks. We had the NC MX-5 retuned at Advanced Autosports in Beloit (they do a lot of Spec Miata prep but also build later stuff) where no-lift-shift and autoblip downshift was added. And with the no lift shift programming, there was literally no delay or grinding or anything on upshifts. Going to start tearing apart the Speeduino code to try to turn it into a rotary ignition only setup, plus have gear mapping. My idea is that even with a carb, you could implement closed loop no-lift-shift by just cutting spark. Maybe fireballs but oh well, that's actually a bonus! I'm thinking of picking up a BRZ/FR-S gearbox at some point (gets rid of the dumb RX-8 4th gear) and ordering a 6th gear for the Nismo S15 gearbox and seeing if it fits. That, combined with a 5.38:1 rear end, should give 5 useable track gears in a Miata. Which would be hilarious fun.
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Jul 14, 2017 18:55
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Oh yeah, did a bit more work on the GT-2 thing since I last posted. See, nice affordable Wide 5 stuff! Life is good!  ... life is less good. OK, so what you're looking at is the lines drawn for roll center (which is fine) and the line drawn for KPI and scrub, which is less fine. Because the stack height of the Wide 5 stuff is so big, everything gets pushed too far towards the inside of the wheel, so some of the geometry gets compromised. Ugh. Guess I should start designing a centerlock setup.
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Jul 21, 2017 17:09
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I love Blackhawk- what event was this? I recognize some of the cars from other events.
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Aug 8, 2017 14:34
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extreme_accordion posted:I love Blackhawk- what event was this? I recognize some of the cars from other events. Midwest Council's Summer Detonation weekend - Madison Sports Car Club hosted. Thus far I'm running with Council and dad's running with SCCA - next race is at Elkhart, for him. We may finally have a hardtop.
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Aug 8, 2017 14:46
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Not that I think anyone much will read this, but anyone in the socal area willing to do me a favor in a couple months? Found a guy who has an IMSA fiberglass front clip for an RX-7, but apparently it was modified for extra width back in the day and is too wide for what he's doing. That's kinda perfect for my needs though. Only problem is it's in socal and I'm in Wisconsin; if someone had a truck and the ability to make a crate though, I'd be eternally grateful and or willing to pay monies. Long shot but what the heck.
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Aug 15, 2017 21:11
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 Just a quick post... tinkering with making a semi-accurate-ish body in Solidworks so I can figure out if the chassis is poking through anywhere and start figuring out cooler placement, stuff like that. Cooler stuff is I'm working on centerlock hubs/uprights because I'm crazy. May just stick with 5x5.
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Aug 16, 2017 16:56
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 Duuuuuuh, and then I figured out how to do surfacing.
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Aug 16, 2017 18:50
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Do you have accurate 3d data of an FB?
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Aug 17, 2017 04:23
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