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So yeah, you guys asked me to make a project thread. Between when I decided to turbocharge my Ducati Monster 696 and today, I've also taken on an arguably as insane (or more insane) project, which is building a sidecar rig as a birthday present for my wife. This thread will track progress on both projects, then. Because I'm apparently both a glutton for punishment and a complete moran.  Project 1: Turbocharge my 2010 Monster 696 Goal: ~120HP, so around 7-9lbs of boost. Planning to use a Garrett GT1241 turbocharger. Current Status: Monster is in pieces. Bill of Materials is mostly complete (I'll post it later). Waiting on cash to start buying stuff. Difficulty level: BRING IT ON  Project 2: A memorable gift for my wife's 40th birthday Goal: an unholy union of a 1963 Duna sidecar and a 1976 Honda CB400F Super Sport. Current Status: Sidecar being shipped to me. '76 CB400F purchased, waiting on shipper. Refurb tank and NOS side panels purchased and shipped to kick-rear end moto painter in Florida. Custom 40th anniversary-style badges will be hand-painted on the side covers, along with hand-painted HONDA / Super Sport logos and pinstripes. All in silver over a base of black to match the black / aluminum sidecar. The '76 hasn't been on the road since 2002, but the seller (who is one of those awesome old dudes with a barn full of neat old bikes) claims that it runs. I plan to replace everything related to brakes, replace the tires, rebuild the carbs, convert it to electronic ignition and replace the coils / plug wires / plugs, refurbish the gauge cluster, and clean up the frame which has some surface rust on it. This may mean stripping the whole loving thing and painting it. I also have to weld on eyelets and ball joints in exactly the right places for the sidecar mounts. So, you know. Easy. Difficultly level: Her birthday is in mid-April.  
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Feb 19, 2016 21:07
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Thanks, guys. I expect that the Duna-CB400 project is going to have me taking days off work to have any chance of getting it done in time; I really want to give it to her on her 40th if it's even remotely possible. Did I mention that I have to buy a TIG welder for both of these projects?   I'm so happy to finally, finally, finally have a garage in which I can do these kinds of insane things.And really happy to have a deadline so that I actually maybe get one of them done! 
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Feb 20, 2016 03:30
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Title for the motorcycle arrived today. TIG welder & accessories, chop saw, metal bender, angle grinders, cutoff & wire wheels and other assorted bits en route. Bench grinder / stand, and standing drill press purchased, partially set up. A shitload of NOS / repro parts ordered from 4into1.com to refurb / replace all the wear items, electrical, anything related to the brakes... Oh, and I've decided to make the sidecar rig a leaner. This is much safer for the rider, and actually easier to fabricate. Kind of. Just need a couple of heavy-duty Heim joints. Should be interesting. My wife is complaining that I'm ruining the surprise by telling her that she can't go in the garage - she's just got no idea. At all. Even if she suspects it's a sidecar... Painter says he's sending photos of the tank and side panels in black with pinstripes tomorrow - I'll post them when I get them.
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Mar 1, 2016 05:21
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The tank: The panels:   Note that these don't have any clear on them yet, just the black base and pinstripes. Should have the first layer of clear on tomorrow, then the logos and "badges" on later in the week, and final layers of clear next week. They're going to look spectacular, I think. ninja: set up the Harbor Freight 13" 16 speed floor-standing drill press this evening. It's a surprisingly solid unit, and there is no measurable runout in the chuck. Major win for $270 minus the 20% super coupon. HandlingByJebus fucked around with this message at 06:12 on Mar 2, 2016 |
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Mar 2, 2016 06:05
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builds character posted:This is great. What can you possibly do for her birthday next year though? 41 is not as big a birthday as 40. I figure I have 10 years to come up with a plan to top this.  There are a bunch of schools of thought about how to determine where to weld the balls and eyes for the sidecar mount, but basically it comes down to physically positioning the sidecar and bike next to each other in the physical arrangement that you want them to be on the road (typically with the sidecar wheel's axle 6-18" in front of the bike's rear axle, and with a slight toe in), then determining where the most accessible strong parts of the motorcycle's frame are, and designing arms that go from the sidecar frame to the two low points and one or two high points on the motorcycle. The sidecar's lead (i.e. how far the sidecar's axle is ahead of the bike's rear axle) determines how hard or easy it is to turn, trading off how stable it is at speed. Since I'm planning on making this a leaner, though, I only need two mount points on the underside of the bike - one fore, and one aft, both as low and on the centerline as possible - to locate the Heim joints that will allow the bike to lean while maintaining the same position for the sidecar. So rather than welding to the frame, this means building a mounting plate that locates to hard points on the frame (ex. center stand mount, motor mounts) and provides the attachment points for the Heim joints. Should be simpler, it's less invasive to the motorcycle's frame, and it's way safer to ride (i.e. you still ride the hack with countersteer, rather than direct steering). The downside is that the sidecar ends up being further away from the motorcycle than with a hard-mounted rig.
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Mar 3, 2016 03:20
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Mar 3, 2016 23:50
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Mar 4, 2016 20:09
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Yeah, dude did an amazing job on them. Can't believe that's all hand-painted! Now I have to do the paint justice with the rest of the project.
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Mar 5, 2016 05:48
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Chris Knight posted:Great project ideas, and those paint jobs are excellent! Thanks man! News: I TIG welded some bar stock to some other bar stock last night. I have a huge stack of parts for the CB400F, which arrives tomorrow. This weekend, the project begins in anger.
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Mar 15, 2016 23:29
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Oh fuckin'  SNAP. I knew that exhaust was going to make this project a total pain in the dick, but drat, that's going to be a giant pain in the dick.
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Mar 17, 2016 00:54
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Left hand sidecar Not a chance - for multiple reasons. Super unsafe on left-hand-drive roads, and I am not going to cut up a rare 50 year old sidecar worth probably 3x as much as the bike to solve this problem. I'll build a left-side exhaust first. Current status: very, very happy that I bought a refurbished tank to be painted. The one on the bike is full of rust. When I siphoned out the tank, I saw dime-sized chunks of rust in the hose. gently caress. Thank goodness there's at least an inline fuel filter in there. The bike is also a little bent. It wasn't obvious in photos, but both fenders are rusty / pitted and misaligned, as are the headlights / gauges. Fortunately the wheels and forks seem straight. There's a lot more rust on the frame and other parts of the bike than I thought. It is really starting to look like I'm going to have to take the thing down to bare metal and have it painted, which I'm not stoked about. The front shocks are a mess too; seeping fluid, and making awful clunking noises. They need seals, probably springs, and definitely oil. The costs of buying a 40 year old motorcycle that hasn't been on the road in 14 years, I suppose. The sidecar's wheel is on, and I've built a crappy little wood stand to position it appropriately for mocking up the mounts. I'm not sure if it's going to be possible to create leaner mounts given the position of the pipes, so I'm looking at either relocating the pipes, building a super complex mount that goes around them, or giving up on the idea of a leaner and going with a hard three-point mount. I have created a to-do list in the garage. It's long. I have less than a month until my wife's birthday. I've got this. 
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Mar 17, 2016 08:13
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 Just mocked up, obviously. Haven't even finished tearing the bike down yet, let alone started mounting the sidecar or the tank / side panels...   I think I'm going to paint the fenders and chainguard black.
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Mar 19, 2016 02:53
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Well, poo poo. 
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Mar 20, 2016 03:39
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Slavvy posted:You know how to weld, right? Yeah, but... I'm not sure how to replace this exactly. edit: Current state, as I give up for the night: 
HandlingByJebus fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Mar 20, 2016 |
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Mar 20, 2016 05:07
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Not a tonne of progress today, due to another minor setback: That's the oil filter bolt, which had decided that it wanted to be a permanent part of the oil filter cover. The flange on that fucker is pretty thick. Cutting it off was a lovely project, but I got it. Current status:  Nothing on the frame except for the engine and engine mounts. Once I separate the two, the stripping and painting process begins. Fun fact: the forks weren't low on oil, they were completely empty. I don't even know how that happens except for some kind of structural failure allowing the fork oil to leak out, so that sucks. PS: the tach cable is still attached because the retaining screw is rusted to complete poo poo and fused to the valve cover.
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Mar 21, 2016 01:26
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Gorson posted:Drill a hole through the center, take a new bolt, cut the head off, insert through the hole and weld both sides? That is probably the answer. Drilling out that much bolt is going to suck out loud, but that looks like more or less how it was done at the factory.
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Mar 21, 2016 06:09
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I think welding something into that broken bolt is the way to go but the crucial part is how you get it out from there. I'd torch the post around it and use a manual impact driver to remove it. Or maybe an air gun. I don't believe that it is screwed in. I think it's a section of threaded rod that is welded on the far (and maybe near) side of that hydro formed section of the rear frame, with a collar over it, which is also welded to the frame. The back side of that hydro formed section has obviously been welded to, but only for something the general size of the threaded section. If you look at how the "shank" of that bolt is attached to the frame, it looks like it has its own collar / washer, which is welded to the outside per of the frame. I'm really not sure how I'm going to tackle it. At least the threaded section is only loaded laterally - it doesn't support the weight of the bike, it only locates the top of the shock on the shank. So just welding a new section of threaded rod might be sufficient.
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Mar 21, 2016 19:26
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Slow progress. Finally got the master cylinder apart. Note the broken eyelets on the circlip, which was literally rusted into the groove. Thank gently caress for Evapo-Rust. I've been bathing drat near everything that's come off the bike in the stuff, and it's magic. Some pieces, the rust literally wiped right off afterwards. Incredible. Obligatory:  Then I tackled getting the engine out of the frame, which I thought was going to be pretty easy.  That lump is loving heavy, and it has to come out the side of the frame, of course. I managed to avoid dropping it or (I think) damaging it, but I am in a lot of pain from just wrestling the drat thing around. I have absolutely no idea how I'm going to get it back in the frame. Obligatory:  I'm not happy that I've had to leave the engine leaned forward like that, but it's so front-heavy that I can't actually put it on wood blocks, which had been my plan previously. Not sure how to proceed with it. Next step: figure out the broken suspension lug on the frame, then strip it and paint the entire frame. I have figured out how to make a leaner mount that will use only existing holes on the frame, so I don't need to weld to the frame! Except for that loving suspension lug, of course.
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Mar 22, 2016 05:25
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Bucephalus posted:Standard procedure is to lay the bike on its side, then lift the frame off/lower the frame on. Well. That will be easier than what I did to get it out. Thanks!
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Mar 22, 2016 15:03
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builds character posted:
Project blockers: 1. Threaded section of right rear shock mount Known potential issues: 1. Master cylinder was rusty, but not in the bore; not yet sure if rebuild will be successful 2. Forks were devoid of oil; not yet sure if they're structurally sound 3. Need to find / purchase an intermediate-long list of NOS/repro parts (headlight surround, oil bolt, oil filter cover, rear shocks, potentially fenders if I don't want to paint them...) 4. Clearing the exhaust for a fixed setup would be difficult  5. The speedo cable carrier on the front wheel does not allow the wheel to turn easily. The wheel bearings are fine, but the carrier wants to turn with the wheel. 6. Both the speedo sensor and tach sensor retainer screws are fused and need to be EZ-outed, drilled, or nuked from orbit, and replacements will be super-easy to find.Nitrox posted:So wait, you're going to line up and weld side cart to a bare frame? Did you take measurements on a fully weighted bike first? Absolutely not, fortunately I am not that stupid. Per above, I've figured out how to build a leaner mount in such a way that it will clear the exhaust easily, and will locate to the front bottom engine mounts and the centre stand mount. No welding to the frame, and I will do it once the bike is back together.Note that I will cry if it doesn't work and I have to weld to the frame. HandlingByJebus fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Mar 22, 2016 |
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Mar 22, 2016 15:50
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I was just planning on wire-wheeling the poo poo out of it, but media blasting is probably a better call. I'll look into that. Just ordered another $800 worth of parts from 4into1. Decided that chrome fenders help make the look, and not enough time to wait for stockers to be re-chromed, so I'll clean them up and sell them to help recoup the cost. Already have a single-line conversion for the front brake, but it's unclear to me how that incorporates the brake pressure sensor for the brake light. I suspect that converting to a more modern 11mm master cylinder with a micro switch is in the cards. So much time left!
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Mar 22, 2016 17:05
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Frame, swingarm, side / kickstands, and one chrome bit dropped off with media blasters. Ready tomorrow, $200. Nice.
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Mar 24, 2016 18:19
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 I plan to get these pieces in primer tonight. So tempting to just fuckin' clear them though. Gorgeous! 
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Mar 26, 2016 00:22
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Parts in primer: Parts left to refinish:   Also need to clean up the engine, as you can see from the top photo. Carbs are all cleaned up, waiting for re-assembly. New (repro) fenders have arrived, along with new oil bolt and oil filter cover, and repro rear shocks. I've sorted out the speed sensor on the front axle; still need to extract that retainer screw (and the tach cable retainer screw too) - but I have NOS replacements for them! Tomorrow's job is to sand out the couple of runs in the primer, figure out the broken suspension stud, and then if I still have time, to get the parts that still needing refinishing in prime. I need to get some 1" OD mild steel tubing ordered, with some bends, and I need to figure out how thick I want the mounting plate to be. I also need to order heim joints and high quality shank bolts to match them; I think I should probably sort out a threaded section for the front tube to provide explicit toe adjustment. I'm trying to decide if I want to make the front mount section out of a billet, and to allow height adjustment (i.e. allow adjustment of the amount of dynamic toe imposed by the leaning motorcycle). This timing is getting really loving tight. Three weeks, one day. also ordered a modern master cylinder, because the rebuilt one leaks like a loving sieve.
HandlingByJebus fucked around with this message at 05:31 on Mar 26, 2016 |
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Mar 26, 2016 05:17
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Gorson posted:Frame looks awesome. Removal of 40 year old paint will burn you out, you saved yourself from many headaches by getting it blasted. It's expensive, yeah, but really if you're halfway decent all you need to do is turn one trick and you've made up the cash. You'll be off that street corner in 2 hours, tops. Some Chineseum unit from eBay that's for an XR250. It has an integrated microswitch (yay!) so I can send back the pressure switch banjo bolt I ordered. Meanwhile, back on the ranch: Carbs are back together:  I welded on a new section of M10x1.25 thread to replace the sheared section of the right suspension mount:      ..and I've put that stuff in primer. Yes, it's a little crooked, but it's a solid weld and it was a bit of a bitch to do, so I'm calling it a win. I wire wheeled the rust and paint off the engine mounts and rear signal stalks, and got them in primer:  Not pictured: drilled out the recalcitrant speedo cable retainer screw. Sanded down the runs on the centre stand. Sprayed the kickstand in VHT gloss black chassis / rollbar paint; the centre stand in VHT matte black chassis / rollbar paint. Trying to decide which I like better before painting the frame.
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Mar 27, 2016 04:35
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Stuff is black!    I taste enamel paint when I breathe. I think that's probably not great. But this stuff looks great! I chose the matte paint for the frame and swingarm, but have used the gloss for the other parts. I'll probably use the last of the matte for the rearsets. Also, not pictured: I blew the rust off the headers with a wire wheel. They've got a bit of pitting, but little enough that I think a quick polish will make them totally usable.
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Mar 27, 2016 19:49
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Plugs and masking off the frame! I'm really happy with the way it turned out. There are a couple of runs but they're not in places that are visible when the bike is together, so gently caress it. I got the forks apart! After fighting with them for like two hours, I realized that I own a loving impact wrench and maybe I should try it. Two "bzzup"s per fork, and look at the sludge that came out...  Fortunately, the springs and the rest of the internals look completely mint. Like, factory fresh. No scoring on the stanchions, but some clumsy fucker gouged the poo poo out of the tops of the sliders, presumably trying to dig out the oil seals during some past attempt at maintenance. With some oil in them, I bet they'll actually work well. And of course the seals are super easy to replace once the whole fork is disassembled. Not pictured: changed the shoes on the rear brake. Tried really hard to avoid inhaling any of the guaranteed-full-of-asbestos dust in the drum. Honestly, even finding some evidence of ham-fisted attempts at maintenance make me happy - this bike has *not* had a happy, easy previous life. After getting through a layer of grease today, I discovered that the engine VIN doesn't match the frame VIN. Neat! That explains the missing engine mount bolt. Next steps: 1. Polish the fork sliders 2. Rebuild the forks 3. Replace the front / rear tires + tubes + liners 4. Start reassembly after the frame paint cures!
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Mar 28, 2016 00:52
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Still waiting on metal polishing stuff to refinish the fork tubes, so tonight I got the engine back in the frame! But first I test-fit one of the side panels against the freshly-painted frame:  Then I pulled the oilpan and valve cover in order to make drat sure I had enough clearance to get the engine back into the frame without banging it up. Mission accomplished:  Fun fact: the CB400F's valve cover contains the top bearing surfaces for the cams and the cam gear. And the loving rockers are mounted to the inside of it! Very interesting design - I was very surprised when it wanted to jump off of the head as I backed the bolts out! Then I buttoned the top and bottom back up:  Good news: everything went smoothly! Bad news: I can't find one of the bolts for the loving valve cover! 45 minutes after I removed it. I left the bolts in the cover specifically so I wouldn't have this problem. Goddammit. I have ordered a bunch of 7/8" OD 11ga DOM tubing, and some 14ga hot-rolled sheet. I need to either rent a tube bender or find some 7/8" 11ga pre-bend Us somewhere, which I'm having trouble with. Thanks a million for the tip about putting the motor on its side and lowering the frame over it. Saved me a lot of time and trouble, and probably saved me from scratching the poo poo out of the frame.
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Mar 30, 2016 07:05
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Putting poo poo back together:  Steering head bearings cleaned and repacked with synthetic grease. Carbs installed. Airbox / battery tray / electrics holder installed. Not pictured: rear inner fender reinstalled, and retainer screw for tach cable drilled out. I got 85% of the way through changing the front tire, but then it started to make awful tearing noises rather than getting the last 18" of the bead over the edge of the rim. So, I'm taking the wheels into a shop tomorrow rather than damaging the brand-new tires. All the tubing and pre-bent U-sections are ordered, arriving next week. Eastwood hasn't shipped the loving metal polishing kit yet, so I'm going to have to source some bits locally to clean up the forks. They're on the critical path now, because I can't position the sidecar without having both wheels on the ground, and I can't figure out for sure if I can engineer a leaner mount or not, and I can't even sort out a fixed mount. I'll mount them up as they are if I have to, but I'll be pissed about it because it will absolutely mean tearing them apart again in the fall. I've realized that I need to figure out how to get the valve cover breather sorted, because just mounting it directly would interfere with the throttle mechanism. The engine still looks filthy because most of the paint is coming off of it. I don't have the time to disassemble, clean, and paint it right now. So it will be coming back out over the winter. Side note: I'm shopping for an interesting classic bike that doesn't need significant work, so that I have something to ride while my Monster is in pieces. Current target: '79 Yamaha XS750 triple. HandlingByJebus fucked around with this message at 08:03 on Mar 31, 2016 |
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Mar 31, 2016 08:00
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Gorson posted:Looking good. You're probably going to want to engineer some type of support for that carb rack. Removing the airbox also removes the rear support for the carbs, and they will bounce around and wear out the rubber boots and cause air leaks. This will make it a nightmare to get it running right. The pod filters are also going to make it run lean, so a rejet will probably be necessary. Thanks, I'll look at something to support the fronts of the carbs. WRT jetting, I definitely know - I've rebuilt the carbs and replaced all of the jets with stock and stock settings, so I'm expecting it to run a bit lean out of the gate. Just need to figure out how lean before changing anything. New slow jets are easy to find for these carbs, and I think I should have enough adjustability in the needles to sort out the rest. ninja: learned a thing today from somebody who knows these bikes really well: the engine serial numbers never match the chassis serial numbers. Whew!
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Mar 31, 2016 19:41
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Current status: Polishing kit from Amazon should be here tomorrow, then I'll be able to button up the front end and front brake. Need to get the spring re-installed on the center stand. Then it's rear brake, rearsets, shifter linkage, hand controls, control / gauge cables, wiring harness, coils / plugs / caps, and headlight. Then I make sure it starts, then install the electronic ignition. Gonna be a busy weekend.
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Apr 1, 2016 09:08
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Current status:  It's a motorcycle again! Almost. I'm breaking for dinner, but my goal this evening is to get the forward controls, cables, coils, and front brake installed. Tomorrow, wiring and fuel lines, maybe I'll see if it'll run!
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Apr 3, 2016 03:05
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 Not pictured: ran the clutch, tach, and speedo cables. Installed new brake caliper. Still have to do all the fuel and electrics, and fill the forks with oil, and add oil to the motor (gently caress, going to go put some tape labels to remind me right now). Also ordered an 18mm spark plug socket because  But it's getting there.
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Apr 3, 2016 06:36
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Slide Hammer posted:Lookin' so nice. But still wondering about how the sidecar will mount... Is a custom exhaust system looking likely, so it could be out of the way? No, there will be no custom exhaust. This exhaust is the whole point of the bike, really - I will honestly give her the motorcycle and buy something else to go with the sidecar before changing out the exhaust. I think I have figured out a way to get three points for a hard mount without modifying anything. I am fairly convinced at this point that a leaner setup isn't possible in a safe way, though.
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Apr 3, 2016 18:04
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Gorson posted:
Yup, absolutely. Maybe even tomorrow evening. It's some fuel and hooking the points to the coils away from attempting a start (then I'll install the electronic ignition and do it all again). Today I ran the wiring harness, installed all the electrics, installed the rest of the cables, installed the front brake line (and bled the brake), installed the seat, installed the battery, and put oil in it. All the electrics worked on first key turn (yusss), including the starter, which I bumped a few times to get the oil distributed. As I was looking around to figure out which of the yellow or blue wires is for the left coil and which is for the right, I realized that I hooked up the loving coils wrong (1-3 & 2-4 instead of 1-4 & 2-3), so hopefully I've got enough length in the HT leads to make it. Would sure be nice if the goddamn wiring diagram in the shop manual had mentioned something about that (PS: spot the Subaru guy, expecting opposing cylinders to share a waste spark). Temporary bike to ride while the Ducati is in pieces update: 1977 Yamaha XS750 triple*.  It has a bad rectifier, so it isn't charging the battery, and the front brakes are so weak I nearly rear-ended my wife pulling out of the driveway where I bought it. But god drat does it make a nice noise, and it's like riding a fairly quick couch. I'm in love. And I ordered new brake lines / pads, a new regulator-rectifier, and some oil filters for it. * Which will absolutely not be temporary. It is part of the stable now.
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Apr 4, 2016 07:26
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8ImpRY_B2E Second try after redoing the plug ends and changing the spark plugs. First try it didn't do anything and then backfired really badly and scared the poo poo out of me - then of course I realized that I had the 1-4 and 2-3 leads reversed. Plugged them in the other way and presto! I didn't run it for long because I don't actually have a fuel supply attached, the line I have is a bit too big and it leaked all over the bike. And this happened:  
HandlingByJebus fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Apr 6, 2016 |
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Apr 5, 2016 04:51
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Gorson posted:YES! Afaik yes, that was fuel. So: don't use VHT chassis and rollbar paint for motorcycle frames. Looks like it's coming back apart in the winter to be stripped again and powder coated this time. And I'll crack apart the motor and do bearings and paint the cases and clean up the wheels and...
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Apr 5, 2016 17:26
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   That motherfucker is fully assembled. Except for the mirror, which I installed after I took the photo. Everything's done: Dynatek electronic ignition, fork oil, touched up the gas-hosed bits of frame paint with no overspray , installed the low-wattage H4 halogen sealed-beam replacement setup, removed dust and fingerprints and all that crap from everything.Remaining issues: will not idle until very warm, and badly then even. It is pig rich - visible grey exhaust, and just trying to make the thing idle, it went through around half a litre from the test tank in about two minutes. That's... not good. Need to sort out a mount for the right-side mirror. Need to re-strip and repaint the frame (haw, haw, goddammit). When I do that, I'll probably take the engine down to the casings and get them refinished too. And the wheels. Because why the hell not? But, it sounds loving amazing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWjOFq4XAKM Holy loving hell, what a noise.  So tomorrow I start building the sidecar mounts and building sidecar-to-bike adapters that accommodate the sporty frame. I may actually give my wife the bike today, just in case she wants to ride it as-is and find another bike to strap the sidecar to. Maybe I'm dreaming though. Heh.
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Apr 7, 2016 01:46
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Welp, today was a productive day: the lower mounts are completely fabricated. Front lower mount (built out of 1/8" bar stock, replaces the right side front engine mount) with sidecar side heim joint:  Front lower mount, motorcycle side:  Front lower mount, sidecar side:  Front lower mount installed:  Rear mount, sidecar side:  Rear mount, motorcycle side (replaces the centre stand):    Both lower mounts installed:  
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Apr 10, 2016 04:40
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TheNothingNew posted:I'm feeling a bit slow: does the rear mount not have a rotational point, or spot where it can angle? Thanks! Unfortunately when I looked at it hard enough it became obvious that a leaner setup wasn't going to work. It will be a rigid 3-point mount (4 if I can figure out a 4th) - third point will go from the sidecar fore/aft external rail to the rear seat support frame section (the ~45 degree section aft of the rider's right foot). In this setup, the heim joints just give me some toe and pitch adjustment for the sidecar, and also provide some adjustability to make up for some of my fabrication slop (there's definitely some fabrication slop...) Not what I'd hoped for, but it will still be very cool.
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Apr 10, 2016 07:03
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