|
^^^ We built a single story house, problem solved. So yeah as I said, we built a house during 2013-2014, but under different circumstances and it was in Finland, i had a thread about it in ask & tell, not sure if it's around anymore, might've gone into archives. I think today, I would have built the houses heating system around an accumulator tank, right now we use a geothermal heat pump. I can't complain about it, but if we had built it around a central tank like that, we could have connected different heating systems to the tank. And I would have liked to have had a woodburning boiler sometimes. Wood is cheap even if you buy it and I have lots of it just lying around.
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2016 12:53
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 2, 2024 18:53 |
|
|
Like I said, one floor only.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 12, 2016 19:10
|
|
|
We built our 1474sqft house + 462sqft garage + 0.6 acres of land for quite a bit under 300k euros. The land itself was 11k of said budget. County is selling cheap land to attract people to live here, lots of construction going on here. Row houses and individual homes. Of course we did not have an architect designed house but chose from a house building companys catalogue and then tweaked it to suit our tastes. I'm skeptical towards fancy architect houses, simpler shapes, esp. for the roofs are more practical, less joins and less potential places to develop problems and it keeps building costs down. I'm also a big believer in rain screen style facades over anything else ever. And wooden paneling, if anyone tries to bring over vinyl to Finland I hope he gets eaten by a bear. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 08:09 on Mar 26, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Mar 26, 2016 08:06
|
|
|
Nitrox posted:Vinyl lasts longer than wood. With less maintenance to boot Wood panelling can and have lasted over a century.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 30, 2016 05:54
|
|
|
The norm is still longer than vinyl. It's lifespan basically indefinite as long as you paint it every decade (dilligent care, with quality paint it can be 20 years), and use good wood. It can also be easily serviced at any time and you can even make new panels yourself, who knows where you can find just the right pieces in 20 or 40 or 60 years? The factory that made them is probably not even around anymore. But wood is always available to be shaped to what is needed. Like I said, I hope the guy who brings that tacky poo poo here gets eaten by a bear. Fortunately finland is finland and wood is appreciated. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 11:04 on Mar 30, 2016 |
|
#
¿
Mar 30, 2016 10:57
|
|
|
Like I qualified my earlier statement, using good wood. Most older windows here that are a century+ old (and there are alot of old wooden houses here) still have their original trim. They're made from heartwood, slow growth pine. This is an extremely durable material, treated with linseed oil paints as you said. These windows that have been maintained still have loads of life in them. As for paints, more modern paints have taken over here as well, but my parents house is still around and it always had latex paint, the facade was repainted in the 90s and it's soon time again but everything looks fine and will probably last my parents lifetime after this treatment. My grandparents house was repainted in the 80s and has the original panelling. it uses oil paint, no doubt it's far better. One key difference might be rain screen facades, basically a universal form of facades here and a superb design that prevents moisture build up. For wood facades anything but a rain screen design is basically unheard of and those that try to use anything else usually wind up with mold and rot. Also a lot of houses don't have any roof overhang in the states. It's almost always present here and protects the house a lot.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 30, 2016 13:00
|
|
|
Obviously not as I was showing how well good grades of wood would perform (and finest oils, please...) and the stuff in my parents and grandparents houses definitely isn't the high grade stuff. But even the cheapest shittiest wood is better than vinyl. Because it's not loving vinyl.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 30, 2016 14:09
|
|
|
MrEnigma posted:I'm not going to disagree with any of that, because wood is great. And since I love the derails in this thread... I can see how it would be difficult in that case yeah. Still if I spent the money on an architect designed house I wouldn't wrap it in vinyl. Then I'd just buy the cheapest prefab house I could find. Looking at material costs I see anything from 3-8 thousand euros for wooden panelling. Depending on the size of the house and how complex a facade you want. I'm building an outhouse soon (5x5m in size) and will be doing all the work myself so I'll get to see how cheap I can get away with.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 30, 2016 15:16
|
|
|
AFewBricksShy posted:A friend of mine has a more modern version of that in his house, and he told me that's the one thing he would change about the house. While it looks cool, it makes 2 medium sized rooms instead of one awesome room, and he wishes he hadn't done that. One thing to note is not to place a heater against an outer wall. You want it in the center of the house. We have active ventilation that circulates the air in our house so the masonry heaters warmth is carried around the house. We can use it to supplement the house warmth with an extra degree or so in winter. Does make a difference.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2016 06:07
|
|
|
Grw up in a 70s era home too, it wasn't cold during winter, but uncomfortably hot during summers. At least on the 2nd floor.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2016 18:52
|
|
|
The Gardenator posted:I do not think anyone mentioned it, but it would be safer to store the bulk of the firewood away from your main house. Are you required to have fire sprinklers in your home? You can expect average of $10,000 more for that to be installed, but if it saves your life it is worth it. A separate woodsheed is a good idea. I have a pile of wood that's been cut into 1m/3ft lengths and split, then stacked and covered. From what I cut shorter pieces and stack in a small shed for one winters use. I bring in 3 or so crates of wood at a time to let it dry out indoors, as the wood stored outside will always retain moisture near the surface, a few days to a week indoors fixes that. But it's noticeably shittier to start a fire with wood that's just been brought in. And it shits up the chimney more, which depending on use should be swept bi-yearly or yearly.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2016 21:12
|
|
|
Building our house took 1 year, 4-5 months seems overly optimistic to me. It takes a lot of time to let a cast floor slab dry out as well, we probably ran a dehumidifier for several months in the house, carrying out gallons of water per day. The heat pump also had a week long program for drying out the floor slab via hydronic heat system, it was drat 40C in the house at most. But it wasn't enough on it's own. It's very important to give the slab time to dry especially before you put in water membranes like in bathrooms and such, or it'll trap moisture which can't escape. In regular floor areas you have some leeway if it can breathe. But properly drying out the slab helps your houses health in the long run. If you are going for a cast slab floor that is, a crawlspace type floor doesn't require this.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 20, 2016 08:09
|
|
|
If you have a basement I think different rules apply. I would have liked a basement but they are pretty rare in construction here for some reason, and it would have been too expensive, our house sits almost directly on the bedrock which was exposed in places, so a basement would have meant (more) blasting.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 20, 2016 13:34
|
|
|
Yes my own building experience in Finland.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 20, 2016 17:36
|
|
|
Zhentar posted:The draft is much stronger, but it's paired with a smaller throat, so there is net much less air flow. You also get a higher combustion temperature, which means more complete combustion of the fuel (more heat generated) and better radiant transfer (more heat makes it into the room instead of directly up the flue). Overall, the efficiency is more than double a standard fireplace (which means it can even manage to be a net gain in a centrally heated home!). The brand I linked also includes a pull down ceramic front which brings the combustion efficiency all the way up on par with a woodburning insert. I'll just say scandinavian kakelugn.
|
|
#
¿
May 13, 2016 05:08
|
|
|
Boogalo posted:It's a dumb cash grab especially since your water bill probably has a sewer remainder fee which is charged on top of water cost since most water used in a house goes down the drains eventually. For my usage amount, the remainder is double the water cost per 1000 gallons. That's how it works here, still cost 4k to hook up water & sewage despite the hookup being in my yard already and we dug and laid out the sewage and water lines right to the hookup point. P.S. What's the black stuff on the foundations?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 4, 2016 08:22
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 2, 2024 18:53 |
|
|
Concrete foundations really have a lot of moisture in them when new. A lot of problems with mold in houses and crappy indoor air have been traced to people (construction companies really) being too cheap and in too much of a hurry to wait and not drying it good and long enough. That short term thinking might lead to long term problems for the occupants.This is why we waited for 4+ months with the floor heating on and dehumifidiers running before installing any non-permeable layers over the concrete in places such as bathrooms. Our house company wanted us to move faster but that's the greed talking and we told them to wait until the meters said it was down to 80% humidity. This is also why it's super important to have the immediate area around the house foundation well drained. Infact the whole site should be built so the house is the highest point and the whole yard slightly slopes downwards from it. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 07:14 on Apr 4, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Apr 4, 2017 07:12
|
|