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~Coxy posted:I don't know about the US in particular, but I should be surprised if it's very different to here. (AU) You can have a 2 floor hydraulic elevator installed for around $20-25k around here. You can reduce that cost if you plan ahead in your build, even if you don't need it installed right now. Most architects will stack a couple of appropriate-sized closets. Maintenance should be under $300 a year, repairs are likely after a few years and can run up to a couple grand depending on what's gone wrong. Most residential elevators around here are pretty much trouble free because they aren't being used as much as a shared commercial elevator. Inspection around here are on initial install only (as opposed to annual on commercial installs). Also don't forget about chair/stair lifts. They are much less expensive and can be installed in nearly any reasonable sized stairwell.
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Mar 12, 2016 18:05
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From what I recall he has pre-approved zoning for a certain footprint and can vary it only up to about 20% before he has to go through the entire process again. That may not be enough to do it all on one floor, if the lot even makes sense for a much larger footprint. I remember watching your build thread though. It turned out really, really nice and I can see why you'd be happy with the all on one floor thing.
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Mar 12, 2016 21:27
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Zhentar posted:Heat loss/gain is a function of the size & characteristics of the exterior building envelope. It doesn't matter how you partition the interior, except that it takes a little more effort to counter stratification the more freely air can travel between multiple stories. Unless we're talking about ye olden days where you had doors everywhere and fireplaces in every room so you could separate functional spaces that didn't need to be heated right now. This is basically unheard of in modern design and largely antiquated by proper exterior building envelopes.
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Apr 1, 2016 03:05
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xwing posted:The laws of thermodynamics haven't changed... hot air rises. You have a multi-story home and upstairs will naturally be hotter (stratification). It can be compensated for, but it's still hotter. It has nothing to do with the envelope, it has to do with the loads inside the building. Nothing to do with the envelope? Then you haven't been in an 1800s house that isn't really any hotter upstairs during the heating season because all the hot air leaks int the attic and right on outside. I'd say that has a lot to do with the envelope.
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Apr 1, 2016 15:43
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Liquid Communism posted:Yeah, especially don't get in with Nest. They're in financial trouble, and if they go under your snazzy wi-fi thermostat will be a brick. At least a Nest thermostat is still useful when not connected to anything. I put one in my office because it's an easy way to have an occupancy sensor to turn the heat/ac down when nobody is in there. It also does a drat good job of figuring out how long to run my radiant heat without overshooting the temperature.
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Apr 7, 2016 15:10
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Gounads posted:Got plans in hand. They are cheaper, straighter, lighter, easier to work with, more consistently carry the load they are engineered for and available in much longer lengths than the poo poo fast growth pine lumber available these days. They are more susceptible to water damage, but that's hardly a concern as you should not have your joists getting rained on. They are also marginally more likely to fail in a heavy fire situation simply because there is less of them to burn. But we're not talking anywhere near engineered truss with gusset plates kinda bad.
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Apr 10, 2016 13:43
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, it's not so much about saving the house as it is about giving you a few extra minutes to get out, and in some cases allowing the fire department to actually go into the house to perform search and rescue. I'm pretty sure I've seen Motronic say that if your house has engineered trusses supporting the roof, the firefighters often aren't allowed to go into the house because it's too easy for the roof to collapse. Exactly this. It's something I bring up because most people aren't even aware of it. This isn't about saving an on-fire home, it's about occupant safety and it's a risk decision you should be consciously making, not just having it made for you by someone else if your in the position to make it. FYI, 20+ years in the fire service and 5+ as a Fire Marshal where I not only did investigations but plan approval, permits and inspections. And in that time I've seen the occurrence of full on house fires drop tremendously. We typically end up with little more than a "room and contents" these days. The #1 reason for this is central station alarms. Get a good fire alarm/security system that is properly installed (and not just to the code minimum....get things like heat detectors in the attic, etc) and pay for the monitoring. It's the absolute best thing you can do to save your home. It gives us in the FD the head start we need. The #2 reason is modern building codes and materials. No more balloon construction, where we'd have a first floor or basement on fire, it would appear to skip the second floor and then the attic was ripping (hint: it's in the walls on the second floor also, but hasn't made it through the plaster yet). Much better and safer HVAC systems, better appliances, better wiring - I'm talking in capacity, grounding, quality of insulation/boxes/switches/fixtures, GFCIs, AFCIs and even without those regular breakers are simply much better than they used to be and certainly better than glass fuses. Even bare minimum code, as crappy as that is in many aspects, it light years ahead of even 70s/80s construction. xwing posted:It'd be pretty hard to tell and in practice and there's many areas they'd never go inside if that was a hard rule. It's not a hard and fast rule, and it's also not hard to tell when you have a ripping attic fire and the roof is distorted already. In that situation I don't let me guys go in, period. We don't trade lives. 99.9% of the time we find it was an engineered truss and the gusset plates had warped in the heat and popped off. Motronic fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Apr 11, 2016 |
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Apr 11, 2016 17:27
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Congrats! Hopefully that's the last of the bureaucracy you have to deal with. Good luck with the build! Opening permits is certainly not the last bureaucracy you need to deal with by basic definition. But this is great news and very good progress.
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Sep 14, 2016 01:47
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Are there more permits that will need to be acquired after this point? Or other things that he has to get approval for? Obviously he's still going to need to get inspections taken care of, but I don't really think of that as being bureaucracy. Building, mechanical, electrical, plumbing and potentially fire protection or grading permits could be required depending on jurisdiction. Some wrap all of those into one building permit. Some don't and you'll need to submit sealed plans for each and fight over minutiae.
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Sep 14, 2016 16:36
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peanut posted:Are these kinds of committees common in the US or is it just your town? I'll tell you it's a thing near where I am. If you need your variance to be approved by a local elected (or appointed by elected people) board the rest of the non-elected-or-appointed public are supposed to have time to have a say about it. If he did not need a variance from the existing code this would not be an issue. I'm not saying his requests were at all unreasonable or shouldn't have been allowed to begin with in the adopted code, just talking procedure here.
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Sep 16, 2016 02:25
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xwing posted:1 week gets you to 70% of it's full strength. 28 days is what is specified usually for full strength. He has a lot of site work with the grade. It's probably convenient to get site work done while concrete is curing. 28 days is design strength on average. For most mixes that's about 75% and it continues to get stronger for years. Other mixes can be at 75%+ in a week - or a day.
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Nov 10, 2016 14:33
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xwing posted:I know... I'm an architect Then you should also know better than to continue spreading this 28 day thing that every concrete guy cringes when they hear. Literally the first google result for 28 day concrete: http://precast.org/2013/10/28-day-myth/
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Nov 10, 2016 17:08
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Glad to see your contractor knows that Zip board is the poo poo. Good job so far.
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Dec 11, 2016 16:55
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KKKLIP ART posted:How can a tub not meet code? Really easily if it's a spa tub. There are electrical requirements for those things for very good reasons.
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Jan 26, 2017 16:19
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Holy poo poo man, this is like a real house now. Happy to see it so close since I've been following from the beginning. It really turned out great (other than that banister, and I'd live with that, but paint it the same color as the wall in semigloss so it wasn't so obvious).
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May 11, 2017 01:05
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"I can't believe it's a meter base!" (I also can't believe the coax and cat 5 was put through the siding that shittily......I'm hoping you're going to box and caulk over that and connect the conduit in some weathertight manner)
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May 13, 2017 02:05
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There is a code-compliant solution to in-wall power now: https://www.amazon.com/PowerBridge-...recessed+outlet It mounts like a low volt box (i.e., doesn't need to be on a stud) because it's not permanently wired to utility power.
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Jun 7, 2017 18:31
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:They're still noticeably more expensive than using standard breakers plus a GFCI outlet, though. I think a lot of that depends on the layout. In my barn/shop? Hell yeah breakers. The panel is right by the door. In the bathroom or kitchen? Hell no, that means I need to go into the basement to reset them.
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Jun 13, 2017 00:15
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glynnenstein posted:Back in the day you avoided putting them on refrigerator circuits so that you didn't spoil your food with a nuisance trip but that might not be current code. I'm like, one or two code versions out of date on actually needing to know this poo poo professionally, but I believe it's still fine to not have them on a fridge outlet if it can be considered a "machine outlet" or whatever the term is. Basically if it's just used for that appliance, and it's not generally positioned to be usable for other things, like if it's behind the fridge. Same deal used to go for washing machine outlets even in laundry rooms with a sink.
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Jun 15, 2017 14:30
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Gounads posted:I also over-seeded after the initial grass was up and cut for the first time (that's probably overkill). Nah, that's a great plan to choke out any weeds early on. Make sure you're mowing it high. Most people mow entirely too low and that's a major reason their grass is mostly weeds.
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Aug 17, 2017 16:37
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