Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Locked thread
Dirty Beluga
Apr 17, 2007

Buy the ticket, take the ride
Fun Shoe
Whatsup Model C buddy :D



Mine is a couple years older than yours, it has the oiler style with the 'gits' on the top - didn't pull the ID card but serial number math says it was late 30's. Working on re-assembling now after a full tear-down and rebuild if you have any questions! With some care there's no reason these can't hold tolerance to match a new Chinese lathe.

Had a blast with the restore, getting to the home stretch:


Motronic posted:

I'm gonna need a chip tray, so it may just end up being a welding project to make a purpose built chip tray/table.

in the mean time, Wal-Mart sells oil drip pans that fit perfectly under the bed.

Dirty Beluga fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Mar 8, 2016

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Dirty Beluga
Apr 17, 2007

Buy the ticket, take the ride
Fun Shoe
garbage pail is a lot easier for big parts:


Mine had a thick coating of gunk over a rough coat of original paint, electrolysis made short work of getting all the parts shiny!



Your ways are in very good shape, a couple dings near the chuck are to be expected - little imperfections are not going to bother the accuracy.

If you had more time I'd def recommend adding hardener to the paint, I had Sherwin Williams color match their oil based enamel - it is night and day durability the parts with and without.

Motronic posted:

It's playing the game between not letting the ways rust and not contaminating what I'm painting.
A quick wipe down with paint thinner keeps the metal from rusting too quickly. You can take it bare and then (within reason) paint it as you have time. For areas that don't need paint / assembly 3 in 1 oil applied liberally works great. Once it's together def get the proper SB oils but no sense wasting them now.


slap me silly posted:

Holy poo poo, you don't choose small projects huh. And there are apparently two other people in the thread who also did this? It's a mad mad world

old lathes are cool as hell <3

Dirty Beluga fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Mar 10, 2016

Dirty Beluga
Apr 17, 2007

Buy the ticket, take the ride
Fun Shoe
an old computer power supply works fine for electrolysis. 12V at whatever amps cleaned most of the lathe bed in a day. Steel electrical conduit / computer case panels are great electrodes too, if a magnet sticks to it you're good.

Dirty Beluga fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Mar 21, 2016

Dirty Beluga
Apr 17, 2007

Buy the ticket, take the ride
Fun Shoe

sharkytm posted:

PC Power supplies aren't designed to be shorted, which is what this is effectively doing.

Not really shorting them unless the chunk of metal your de-rusting touches one of the electrodes. There's basically no conductivity until you add an electrolyte, once you add some and put a chunk of rusty greasy metal in there it's not perfectly conductive either - its a resistive load.

A car battery charger is perfect if you have one around, if not a PC supply works great and someone usually has one for free.

Dirty Beluga
Apr 17, 2007

Buy the ticket, take the ride
Fun Shoe
looking great!

  • Locked thread