|
In this particular case, the state property involved is the margin of the road. The state owns N feet of the land on either side of the center of the highway. The N feet bordering our land is a downhill slope planted with rock roses. The state probably doesn't care until it finds out, which will happen when pulling permits. Sigh.
|
# ? Apr 23, 2024 05:22 |
|
|
# ? May 4, 2024 15:22 |
|
Arsenic Lupin posted:In this particular case, the state property involved is the margin of the road. The state owns N feet of the land on either side of the center of the highway. The N feet bordering our land is a downhill slope planted with rock roses. The state probably doesn't care until it finds out, which will happen when pulling permits. Sigh. Oh that's strange. In PA we own to the centerline of the road the property borders and X feet away from that is a by-statute state easement. They wouldn't care about this, unless they were going to need that land for something (widening a road, a delegated utility easement) in which case they would just give you the too bad so sad we're using this now.
|
# ? Apr 23, 2024 12:02 |
|
In my garage if I frame/drywall the concrete wall and drywall the ceiling you can see where along the top of the concrete wall there will end up a little empty tunnel behind the frame/drywall and below the ceiling. Anything wrong with that? I figure that could be used in the future if I need to run any more wire. I've found references to that being called a 'raceway' but I'm not sure if I'm supposed to like line it in anything if used that way. Maybe cut a couple access points in the drywall? Some kinda spacers for any romex running through it?
|
# ? Apr 24, 2024 20:04 |
|
Motronic posted:Oh that's strange. In PA we own to the centerline of the road the property borders and X feet away from that is a by-statute state easement. They wouldn't care about this, unless they were going to need that land for something (widening a road, a delegated utility easement) in which case they would just give you the too bad so sad we're using this now. And even then you can fight that expansion, my parents successfully got PennDOT to go back to the drawing board on a road project that was going to take their well by holding up how much it was going to cost them to replace their well in a new, more suitable place. (Unfortunately, having them pay for a new well would have been the preferable option.)
|
# ? Apr 24, 2024 20:09 |
|
FuzzySlippers posted:In my garage if I frame/drywall the concrete wall and drywall the ceiling you can see where along the top of the concrete wall there will end up a little empty tunnel behind the frame/drywall and below the ceiling. A "raceway" is basically any wiring path. It's a really open definition. I'd just drywall over that space. You aren't losing that much space.
|
# ? Apr 24, 2024 23:45 |
|
kid sinister posted:A "raceway" is basically any wiring path. It's a really open definition. Could do the cool garage thing and leave it unpainted at Level 1 Finishing too
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 00:31 |
|
I hate painting so I expect it’ll be just bare drywall for a while. I don’t really know what I want to do with it but half the garage is already drywall (facing the interior) so I figure getting that uniform is a good place to start. Actually want I want is some lovely wood paneling everywhere because I’m nostalgic about dark mildewy old basements/garages but everyone else would hate it. The reaction from visitors when they found out I added wood paneling would be pretty funny
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 00:55 |
|
God drat I underestimated the amount of foam I’d need…and also how much to use. Got 2 windows done with one can. Might have been able to do 3 because holy poo poo that expanded quite a bit.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 01:20 |
|
nwin posted:God drat I underestimated the amount of foam I’d need…and also how much to use. Yeah......I almost mentioned this bit it's something you juse have to learn by feel. It just keeps on expanding for a long time. Now you know. Cut the extra off with a razor knife. The snap off blade knoves work great for this. It's really going to make a huge difference this fall and winter if you were getting breezes through those windows. High effort/low cost great quality of life improvemant.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 01:47 |
|
Motronic posted:Yeah......I almost mentioned this bit it's something you juse have to learn by feel. It just keeps on expanding for a long time. Now you know. Cut the extra off with a razor knife. The snap off blade knoves work great for this. Yeah, that was exactly it. I put in a relatively small amount per the instructions (fill half the space), but there were some large gaps and it wasn’t instantly expanding so I thought “meh, what the heck” and added a bit more. Whoops. I cleaned it up with a razor blade and I’m ready to nail the trim back in. When I pulled the trim I figured I’d just reuse the nails but that doesn’t look feasible, so I guess I’ll be pulling these Brad nails out and then using my air nailer on the trim afterwards.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 01:54 |
|
Expanding foam is something everyone has to experience to understand. Acetone on a rag, pro tip.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 04:09 |
|
FuzzySlippers posted:I hate painting so I expect it’ll be just bare drywall for a while. I don’t really know what I want to do with it but half the garage is already drywall (facing the interior) so I figure getting that uniform is a good place to start. I rolled on the cheapest white paint I could find, just to brighten the room up. It really helps IMO. The original drywall was brownish so not that pretty to look at. Didn't bother mudding any seams either. Working on another place soon and it'll be OSB and just cheapest white paint again.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 06:43 |
|
H110Hawk posted:Expanding foam is something everyone has to experience to understand. Acetone on a rag, pro tip. I'm tempted to post pics of my first attempted use of it. Basically made a wall look like a moon scape desperately trying to scrape off excess with... I don't know a piece of cardboard or something? Good news is you make that mistake precisely once.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 12:44 |
|
H110Hawk posted:Expanding foam is something everyone has to experience to understand. Acetone on a rag, pro tip.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 14:49 |
|
BonoMan posted:I'm tempted to post pics of my first attempted use of it. Basically made a wall look like a moon scape desperately trying to scrape off excess with... I don't know a piece of cardboard or something? Also should we tell them re: once?
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 17:02 |
|
My crappy old craftsman riding mower is down for repairs right now, so I was cutting my front yard with my Honda push mower. My neighbor took pity on me and let me borrow his exmark 60" zero turn I have been spoiled forever
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 17:43 |
|
I've got an active gas fireplace with a brick facade in my family room. It actually works, and a couple times a year we run it. When we do, we turn on the gas, make sure to open the flue, etc. As much as I generally hate this trend, we're considering mounting our TV to it. Since it's a working fireplace, I'm not sure on the rules about attaching things to it (relative to the decorative ones people end up with these days). I've got two questions. The image below isn't mine, but it's the same general idea. 1. Does mounting a mantle on the red line seem safe, in regards to proximity to heat? If I were running it all winter long I could see why that could be an issue, but since it's only a couple times a year, I have to imagine it's fine. 2. More importantly, how safe/wise is it to drill into the brick? I'd imagine that it's at least one brick deep, so what, 3 or 4"? My concern would be breaking into the actual chimney itself, or otherwise compromising the non-decorative component of the fireplace.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 19:24 |
|
The Wonder Weapon posted:I've got an active gas fireplace with a brick facade in my family room. It actually works, and a couple times a year we run it. When we do, we turn on the gas, make sure to open the flue, etc. I put a tv over my fireplace, used a mount from https://www.mantelmount.com/ and couldn't be happier with it. I suspect it's fine to mount the tv there (I'd make sure you have an actual mantle to direct heat away from the tv a little). If it's real brick I'm sure appropriate anchors would do the job just fine. With the mount I linked, you can put the tv quite a bit higher than your red line and it would drop down more than enough.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 19:48 |
|
VelociBacon posted:I put a tv over my fireplace, used a mount from https://www.mantelmount.com/ and couldn't be happier with it. I suspect it's fine to mount the tv there (I'd make sure you have an actual mantle to direct heat away from the tv a little). If it's real brick I'm sure appropriate anchors would do the job just fine. $300 for a tv mount, yowza Sorry I don't think I was clear. The red line would be a wood mantle, about 1' deep. The TV would be mounted just above that, possibly sitting on the mantle itself (and secured to the brick to keep from tipping). It would look something like this: (red is wood mantle, blue is TV) The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Apr 25, 2024 |
# ? Apr 25, 2024 19:52 |
|
The Wonder Weapon posted:Sorry I don't think I was clear. The red line would be a wood mantle, about 1' deep. The TV would be mounted just above that, possibly sitting on the mantle itself (and secured to the brick to keep from tipping). It would look something like this: (red is wood mantle, blue is TV) If you have a wood burning insert the mantle clearance requirements will be noted in the install documentation. If you have a masonry fireplace that guidance is likely contained within your governing building code. In my experience a wood mantle located where you indicate is unlikely to meet requirements. It will depend on the depth of the mantle, but generally combustible mantles of average depth need to be a minimum of 12-inches above the opening. EDIT: missed the word 'gas' in your original post. If it's a gas insert the requirements will be in the install documentation, if it's a gas log in a masonry fireplace refer to your building code.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 20:14 |
|
I can see why you would want to mount it down there because when I lived in an apt with a TV mounted above a fireplace in the more usual position to do so (like where the white mantel is in your pic) I didn't like it since the angle was hard on the neck (my wife didn't mind as much but she also wanted it there in the first place). Wouldn't the TV be blocking those vents in your pic? I would assume those have some function to it, but I don't know much about gas fireplaces.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 20:51 |
There was a discussion of the fireplace TV thing somewhere around here recently. The long and short of the discussion was that there's a significant risk of the heat loving up your TV, depending.
|
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 20:58 |
|
Hieronymous Alloy posted:There was a discussion of the fireplace TV thing somewhere around here recently. The long and short of the discussion was that there's a significant risk of the heat loving up your TV, depending. Only if your fireplace isn't made properly. This person's ask seems to be "how do I install a proper mantle so that doesn't happen?" And they got the correct answer: it's in the cut sheets for the insert and their local code.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 21:08 |
|
Tezer posted:If you have a wood burning insert the mantle clearance requirements will be noted in the install documentation. If you have a masonry fireplace that guidance is likely contained within your governing building code. FuzzySlippers posted:I can see why you would want to mount it down there because when I lived in an apt with a TV mounted above a fireplace in the more usual position to do so (like where the white mantel is in your pic) I didn't like it since the angle was hard on the neck (my wife didn't mind as much but she also wanted it there in the first place). e: Motronic posted:Only if your fireplace isn't made properly. This person's ask seems to be "how do I install a proper mantle so that doesn't happen?" And they got the correct answer: it's in the cut sheets for the insert and their local code. The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Apr 25, 2024 |
# ? Apr 25, 2024 21:12 |
|
The Wonder Weapon posted:$300 for a tv mount, yowza
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 21:25 |
|
The Wonder Weapon posted:I'm not quite sure what this means. What's a cut sheet? Is that the specs of the installed fireplace? Because I don't have that. Is the assumption that that they built it properly according to the local code, and the local code would have information about depth of the brick, etc.? A cut sheet is the document from the insert or gas log which is incopoprated-by-reference into code as "install per manufacturer's instructions". Don't assume it was built to code, and even if it was you still need to know what code says because you are asking about modifying it.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 22:09 |
|
I guess I don't know what to do with this information. Do I call my local housing board and ask if they have documentation on file for what was installed?
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 22:21 |
|
The Wonder Weapon posted:I guess I don't know what to do with this information. Do I call my local housing board and ask if they have documentation on file for what was installed? You should be able to find a tag on the gas log or insert that lists a manufacturer and model number which you can look up online and download the documentation for.
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 22:30 |
|
The Wonder Weapon posted:I guess I don't know what to do with this information. Do I call my local housing board and ask if they have documentation on file for what was installed? If you have a model number for the insert/gas log that's a good place to start your research. Often you can find it on a stamped metal badge somewhere on the equipment. efb
|
# ? Apr 25, 2024 22:30 |
|
Motronic posted:A cut sheet is the document from the insert or gas log which is incopoprated-by-reference into code as "install per manufacturer's instructions". Don't assume it was built to code, and even if it was you still need to know what code says because you are asking about modifying it. Lol this reminds me of when the code guys came around to do a surprise ‘final inspection’ of my garage -two years later - how they suddenly wanted a sheet for my woodstove. It was an Atlanta Stove Works unit from around 1969, it was given to me; I found that the company had gone out of business. I couldn’t find poo poo on it for documentation. I found a manual online for a similar model. I photoshopped in images of my stove & the installation stand-off measurements & sent it. The township needed it to cover their asses in case I set the place on fire. I was unconcerned because the back wall behind it was (from studs out): 5/8 fire-rated plywood Two layers of 5/8” drywall One layer of 5/8” wonder board 3/8” terra-cotta 6” tile PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Apr 26, 2024 |
# ? Apr 25, 2024 23:43 |
|
Hieronymous Alloy posted:There was a discussion of the fireplace TV thing somewhere around here recently. The long and short of the discussion was that there's a significant risk of the heat loving up your TV, depending.
|
# ? Apr 26, 2024 16:34 |
|
I just removed my TV from in front of my unused fireplace hearth and mounted it above my new TV console/cabinet we got last week. I'm really picky about cleanliness so I wanted to make sure all the power and HDMI cords are hidden in the wall. I bought a box that has two outlets in a box behind the TV, with a pass through for HDMI cables to come out another box at the bottom near the outlet by the floor. It took a lot longer than I anticipated due to some unexpected issues with ungrounded wires and old boxes/outlets. Thankfully we had the idea to remove the t&g boards in my garage wall to gain access to the wiring from behind making the job 10x easier with less drywall repair. In order to center my mount where I wanted on the wall, it didn't align with the existing studs. We had to add two horizonal 2x4 fireblocking type studs behind the drywall to screw the mount into. Again, going from the other side made it a breeze. It's mostly done now, aside from a few details. I need to pick up a few existing work outlet boxes and outlets, plus a bottom HDMI pass though box and a few covers. I'm super happy with how everything turned out. Just a few small things tomorrow. We spent a ton of time just figuring out the wiring. My house is from 1955 with a remodel sometime in the 90s so it has a mix of ungrounded 2 strand snakeskin wiring with modern 3 strand grounded romex. Most of the updated wiring areas are grounded but a few rooms are not. This circuit has a few outlets that are modern romex and grounded, but a few outlets towards the far side of the circuit that aren't. This was not. Thankfully we were able to remove the old and replace it with new romex so everything is grounded now. But now I think I need a larger TV. It's 65" but it's probably 12' away vs the 8' it was before. It makes a huge difference being a little further away. Maybe if/when this dies, I'll consider a larger model.
|
# ? Apr 28, 2024 11:20 |
|
Is a duplex to one inlet allowed? I thought it was one to one.
|
# ? Apr 29, 2024 03:21 |
|
Yes. This is that area of code/UL listing/whatever where it was recognized that if you don't allow sensible things everyone is going to run extension cords through drywall.
|
# ? Apr 29, 2024 04:17 |
|
My wife is getting really excited about the idea of replacing our carpet with hardwood floors. I am not opposed to the idea but would like to get some realistic advice first. Are there any goon-recommended guides to wood types, potential pitfalls, etc, or should I just spam this thread with questions?
|
# ? Apr 29, 2024 05:16 |
|
My wife had the same idea but a little research about the pros/cons of actual hardwood vs the better quality lvp wood imitation got her to switch to that idea. I did all the work myself and it was tedious but not particularly difficult. That was a couple years ago and it’s worked out well. My issue with real wood floors was the extra expense and more difficult maintenance. I like that I don’t have to think about any special handling for these floors. Proper wood certainly has a certain cool vibe but not worth the extra effort to me at least
|
# ? Apr 29, 2024 05:32 |
|
So my garage finishing project looks a little harder. The state of the garage is that walls and ceiling facing the interior are insulated with unpainted drywall, the back walls are on a slope and were just bare concrete, and the exterior wall had rough mix of osb/cheap drywall that had some old water damage and no insulation. Now the only time we've ever seen any moisture issues in the garage is when I had life problems and let the concrete slope area right up against the garage back wall get completely covered in leaves/tree poo poo and after a bad rain we had a little water seep into the garage where the old water damage was. I cleaned everything up and the problem never repeated. Currently everything is bone dry despite raining a lot lately. We don't know the story behind the old water damage if there is anything else to it. When I pulled off all the old drywall I found more water damage than I expected. So I have some wood to replace at least. Is there supposed to be something between the framing wood and presumably the exterior siding besides that thin rotted wood? Feels like there should be something sealing it but google isn't clear on that. I dunno what the scrap of yellow foam is from either. Here's a whole album of pictures of the garage if people are curious. Any suggestions on what I should do besides replace the wood there? Anything to stay extra dry in the future? Since this is the PNW moisture is a constant. Eventually I also want to come up with better water handling from the exterior side, but not sure how since it's all concrete and is already properly sloped to drain. Something like a ground gutter?
|
# ? Apr 29, 2024 08:44 |
lavaca posted:My wife is getting really excited about the idea of replacing our carpet with hardwood floors. I am not opposed to the idea but would like to get some realistic advice first. Are there any goon-recommended guides to wood types, potential pitfalls, etc, or should I just spam this thread with questions? We have some nice white oak floors downstairs and put in some nice lvp flooring on our upstairs. After 4-5 years with both we will put in lvp any time. We have pets and cleaning/ maintenance on the lvp is so much easier and nicer. We went with a mid/ high range quality brand for it but it was still cheaper than its white oak equivalent. Id vote for lvp, seems like its here to stay.
|
|
# ? Apr 29, 2024 11:20 |
|
FuzzySlippers posted:
Honestly that doesn't look too bad to me. If it's dry and isn't actively rotting, I'd probably just cut a plywood patch to cover the spot where what I presume is OSB turned to mush and call it a day. Obviously you want to make sure it doesn't happen again, but if it's not a recurring issue or clearly getting worse I wouldn't worry.
|
# ? Apr 29, 2024 13:08 |
|
|
# ? May 4, 2024 15:22 |
|
FuzzySlippers posted:My wife had the same idea but a little research about the pros/cons of actual hardwood vs the better quality lvp wood imitation got her to switch to that idea. I did all the work myself and it was tedious but not particularly difficult. That was a couple years ago and it’s worked out well. What difficult maintenance are you referring to? If you mean refinishing, that is something you're only doing once every couple decades, which I would guess is on par with the lifespan of LVP. The only maintenance I do to my hardwood floor is vacuum it, and mop it occasionally. I am firmly on Team Hardwood. Obviously the big downside is cost but otherwise it is a renewable resource and not just more loving plastic, you can refinish it many times (mine are 80 years old, could go another 80 I'm sure), if styles or your tastes change you can just stain it or finish it differently instead of having to throw it in a landfill and buy a whole new floor! It also looks infinitely better than LVP, imho. If I couldn't afford hardwood I'd probably put in carpet over LVP, personally (assuming it's not a bathroom or kitchen, etc).
|
# ? Apr 29, 2024 13:55 |