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peanut
Sep 9, 2007


You can buy sythentic? deer/wolf piss to at attract/deter other animals

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H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Deviant posted:

I actually went up in the attic to try and get to it to even take video, and that chunk of the roof is so cramped that I nearly had a panic attack. And then had to go BACK for my phone I dropped.

Oh yeah gently caress that. If it were accessible from outside then shop vacs are awesome. Just make sure you have the filter in there otherwise it's just a angry wasp cannon.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


H110Hawk posted:

Oh yeah gently caress that. If it were accessible from outside then shop vacs are awesome. Just make sure you have the filter in there otherwise it's just a angry wasp cannon.

at first you had my attention.

now you have my interest.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe

H110Hawk posted:

angry wasp cannon.

Pro DIY username

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

peanut posted:

You can buy sythentic? deer/wolf piss to at attract/deter other animals

Does this actually work? I'm not sure the deer around here have seen anything resembling a wolf in generations

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost

H110Hawk posted:

Oh yeah gently caress that. If it were accessible from outside then shop vacs are awesome. Just make sure you have the filter in there otherwise it's just a angry wasp cannon.

lol goddamn

I wonder if the best approach is to have a bag in the shop/vac and then suck some wasp killer spray into the shop vac before going after the wasps themselves. I hope never to find out.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

tetrapyloctomy posted:

lol goddamn

I wonder if the best approach is to have a bag in the shop/vac and then suck some wasp killer spray into the shop vac before going after the wasps themselves. I hope never to find out.

I mean they all ship with some basic mesh filter. Or you could just ziptie/tape some metal fabric mesh to the outlet. It's not hard, but the penalty for error is hilarious to others. No need to spray poison into it. If you really want em dead quicker than ignoring the problem will do you could take it outside and suck in some diatomaceous when you turn it off as the unit is spooling down in hopes it doesn't all rocket out the back. You can also dump some down the wall cavity to ensure anything that didn't get sucked up dies. (Think: larvae or however wasps procreate.) A literally "scoop" of it will do, I would probably do a cup?

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


this is why I pay a guy for pest control

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


devicenull posted:

Does this actually work? I'm not sure the deer around here have seen anything resembling a wolf in generations

Sorry in advance if your attic fills with wolves

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000

I LITERALLY SLEEP IN A RACING CAR. DO YOU?
p.s. ask me about my subscription mattress
Ultra Carp
I'm looking for a light switch with a dusk sensor that will turn on when it gets dark then automatically turn off like 2-4 hours later.

I have found extension cords that do this but not a light switch. E.g. https://a.co/d/hy7YQfo

I don't want a "smart" switch and I'd prefer not to have to program a 7 day schedule. I just want it to come on at night then turn off a bit later. Does this exist in light switch form?

Vim Fuego fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Apr 21, 2024

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Vim Fuego posted:

I'm looking for a light switch with a dusk sensor that will turn on when it gets dark then automatically turn off like 2-4 hours later.

I have found extension cords that do this but not a light switch. E.g. https://a.co/d/hy7YQfo

I don't want a "smart" switch and I'd prefer not to have to program a 7 day schedule. I just want it to come on at night then turn off a bit later. Does this exist in light switch form?

There are "smart" switches where you can set them up once and they do more or less what you want. The more. Time you put in the more accurate it will be, but they won't turn on when it's merely dark out for other reasons. I don't think I've ever seen a device where it has a photosensor integrated like that. It would have to be outside.

https://leviton.com/products/vpt24-1pz

These are really nice and as I recall easy to program. You can even put in your lat/long and it will adjust all year.

Invalid Validation
Jan 13, 2008




Most smart switches you can set up to turn on at dusk.

SpeedFreek
Jan 10, 2008
And Im Lobster Jesus!
Fill the bottom of the shop vac with a few inches of water, mix in a little dish soap. Most of them fall in the soapy water and down immediately, works best on a full sized shop vac.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Vim Fuego posted:

I'm looking for a light switch with a dusk sensor that will turn on when it gets dark then automatically turn off like 2-4 hours later.

I have found extension cords that do this but not a light switch. E.g. https://a.co/d/hy7YQfo

I don't want a "smart" switch and I'd prefer not to have to program a 7 day schedule. I just want it to come on at night then turn off a bit later. Does this exist in light switch form?

They make porch lights that do this with the sensors integrated into the fixture (and they aren't terribly expensive) if that's at all plausible for your application.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000

I LITERALLY SLEEP IN A RACING CAR. DO YOU?
p.s. ask me about my subscription mattress
Ultra Carp

H110Hawk posted:

There are "smart" switches where you can set them up once and they do more or less what you want. The more. Time you put in the more accurate it will be, but they won't turn on when it's merely dark out for other reasons. I don't think I've ever seen a device where it has a photosensor integrated like that. It would have to be outside.

https://leviton.com/products/vpt24-1pz

These are really nice and as I recall easy to program. You can even put in your lat/long and it will adjust all year.

Ok, I'm giving this a try.

Wallet posted:

They make porch lights that do this with the sensors integrated into the fixture (and they aren't terribly expensive) if that's at all plausible for your application.

Yeah, I have some fixtures with the photo sensor. This is a rope light that underlights a sculpture in an interior hallway. It's plugged into a switched outlet. So I want it to come on when it's dark, but I don't want it lit all night, and I can't install a fixture.

FuzzySlippers
Feb 6, 2009

So my unfinished garage had a corner workbench area with some very old plywood walls and plywood tabletops that were in rough shape (it also had a lot of weird crap screwed on by successive generations of owners). I removed the extras and plywood so it is back to just the structure. That seems pretty solid so was just going to add some fresh plywood to cover and call it complete. Before I did I was just curious if there was anything about it I should change or improve before the structure is covered again. A sanity check I guess? Even though they feel solid as is it seems like some extra horizontal 2x4s on the walls would be proper to add.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Looks good. I’d top it with two layers of 3/4” plywood.

You’ll get a number of great suggestions here for the walls. I used the heaviest-grade pegboard.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Now is the time to wire up some outlets for your worktops.

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000

I LITERALLY SLEEP IN A RACING CAR. DO YOU?
p.s. ask me about my subscription mattress
Ultra Carp
In wall dust collection ports

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

kid sinister posted:

Now is the time to wire up some outlets for your worktops.

This. So much this.

Put an outlet over each bench. Not having extension cords running a round is the best.

Polio Vax Scene
Apr 5, 2009



What is this metal plate above the gutter for?


What are these growths on this tree, anything I can do about them?

~Coxy
Dec 9, 2003

R.I.P. Inter-OS Sass - b.2000AD d.2003AD

Vim Fuego posted:

Ok, I'm giving this a try.

Yeah, I have some fixtures with the photo sensor. This is a rope light that underlights a sculpture in an interior hallway. It's plugged into a switched outlet. So I want it to come on when it's dark, but I don't want it lit all night, and I can't install a fixture.

Do you actually want the switch to control the rope light, or for it to only ever turn on and off on your schedule?

If the latter, use a outlet timer and leave the switch permanently on.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Polio Vax Scene posted:

What is this metal plate above the gutter for?





You need to clean the roof debris out of your gutters.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Polio Vax Scene posted:

What is this metal plate above the gutter for?


What are these growths on this tree, anything I can do about them?


That plate is supposed to keep leaves out of your gutters. Your mileage may vary.

As for the tree growths, your tree is trying to make babies.

FuzzySlippers
Feb 6, 2009

Two stack plywood is the plan. I’ve seen recommendations for more but the benches are connected to the wall so I don’t think it needs any extra weight from the top. I also don’t use any fancy hand tools so I think two will do it.

The dust port idea is interesting. I’ve wanted to figure out a better dust handling system, but it seems like collectors are pretty pricey. There was a cheaper harbor freight unit I’ve seen recommended but they don’t seem to sell it anymore. Right now I just have a shop vac. I could setup the pipes for later use at least.

More outlets would be good as I have some dumb rear end extensions going for power tools. I’ve swapped out outlets but never added a new one. With the absurd cost of electricians around here I suppose I need to figure out how it’s done.

FuzzySlippers fucked around with this message at 08:06 on Apr 22, 2024

GlyphGryph
Jun 23, 2013

Down came the glitches and burned us in ditches and we slept after eating our dead.
What do you plan on using it for, mostly? Personally I'd make sure at least one of the surfaces is thick enough I could at least add some dogs and clamps, those have been the single biggest difference for me between good and mid workbenches.

If its attached to the wall, then it looks fine other than that.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Polio Vax Scene posted:

What is this metal plate above the gutter for?


It's drip edge. It makes the water coming off your roof drip down into the gutter and not get sucked up under the roof by capillary action.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



The section below the drip edge & in to the gutter is to prevent splash-back getting behind the gutter & running down the exterior wall.

Not sure why it's set-up that way; typically, there’s a wood fascia there, with aluminum wrap around it, and the gutter is installed tight against it (the fascia usually runs behind the gutter, not into it) under the drip edge.

But it seems to be working so I wouldn’t worry about correcting it until you have to replace the gutters.

Polio Vax Scene
Apr 5, 2009



Cyrano4747 posted:

You need to clean the roof debris out of your gutters.

That's partially why I was up there

PainterofCrap posted:

But it seems to be working so I wouldn’t worry about correcting it until you have to replace the gutters.

I'm replacing them this year. They're 30 year old vinyl gutters. There is wood fascia behind the gutter, but I don't think it has wrap, so that might explain the sheet.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

FuzzySlippers posted:

. Right now I just have a shop vac. I could setup the pipes for later use at least.

I would do this now while it's easy. Same with far too many outlets. If you wire it with 12/3 and a 2pole 20a breaker you can do top/bottom of a duplex outlet on different circuits. Live your best power tool life.

FuzzySlippers
Feb 6, 2009


Actually if I stuck some insulation between the boards how far is this from half rear end finishing that garage wall? Around the corner is more concrete slab/wall/whatever I could throw down some more boards and more insulation

Would that make it a bit less drafty in there? Not sure if I should have some kinda plastic barrier in front of the concrete since behind this wall is earth (I'm on a slope so just this side). Not sure what I'm supposed to do with these big rear end bolts in the wall either if I was trying to do this more properly.

Previous owner just bent them out of the way when he put in those boards. I'm also not sure how one would handle the exterior wall with the window since it's like half framed and half concrete. Here's the transition point.

The wall towards the inside of the house is drywall.

Edit: actually i think the wall bolts are something for pouring concrete. They come off with a bit of wiggling so I don’t think they are important

FuzzySlippers fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Apr 22, 2024

incogneato
Jun 4, 2007

Zoom! Swish! Bang!
I'd like to hire someone to make the window in our toddler's room larger. The house was built in the 70s and the windows in the bedroom are currently 4' off the floor. Our main goal is lowering the bottom of that significantly (i.e. make the window taller), both to let in more light and to allow her to see out into our forested backyard. Widening the window is not really important to us, plus I'm guessing that it'd increase the cost by quite a bit. The current window is roughly 3' x 4.5'.

I'm out of my depth hiring someone for something like this. Frankly, in our brief time being homeowners, we've just hired people for yard work and minor plumbing, not putting holes in walls. Are we just looking for window companies, or does the fact that we'll need to knock out part of a wall mean someone else needs to be involved? I'm not even sure a rough ballpark of how much we should expect this to cost, so it may be more money than we really want to stomach.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Ok my Leviton humidity sensor switch in my bathroom has now failed twice. The first switch only lasted a month or so, this last switch went for maybe four months, so I’m done with it.

However, it doesn’t solve the humidity problem.

The existing fan is from the original build in 1987. Some Braun fan with a light. I’m thinking of replacing it with a new one that has the humidity sensor built in. Either a Braun or Panasonic seems available at Home Depot.

I only have two light switches currently. I have 1 main bathroom vanity light and the aforementioned vent fan with light in the ceiling. One switch turns both lights on and the other controls the fan.

Two questions: how do I figure out what size fan I need for CFM? The bathroom is about 5x13 in dimensions with standard 8’ ceilings. The rule of thumb i see online is 1 cfm for every square foot, so that puts me in the 70 or 90 cfm range, right?

Next question: will I be able to easily wire this? The house has 14/3 standard romex, so I’m hoping yes, but who knows.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



incogneato posted:

I'd like to hire someone to make the window in our toddler's room larger. The house was built in the 70s and the windows in the bedroom are currently 4' off the floor. Our main goal is lowering the bottom of that significantly (i.e. make the window taller), both to let in more light and to allow her to see out into our forested backyard. Widening the window is not really important to us, plus I'm guessing that it'd increase the cost by quite a bit. The current window is roughly 3' x 4.5'.

I'm out of my depth hiring someone for something like this. Frankly, in our brief time being homeowners, we've just hired people for yard work and minor plumbing, not putting holes in walls. Are we just looking for window companies, or does the fact that we'll need to knock out part of a wall mean someone else needs to be involved? I'm not even sure a rough ballpark of how much we should expect this to cost, so it may be more money than we really want to stomach.

From a structural standpoint: nothing could be easier. The opening is reinforced at the top, so there is no load on the opening. You could make it a doorway, so long as you don’t want to widen it.

Everything else is aesthetic; the most expensive part is cutting back the exterior finish to accommodate the opening, and installing the proper transition between the opening & the exterior weather covering.

Inside, you’ll need new trim at the left & right; if you can get them removed without damaging them, you csn re-use the sill & stool pieces.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


When last heard from, the Lupin family were coping with the fact that their septic system was both failing and illegal.

Today I found out that our well, which was dug a couple of decades ago, isn't on our land. It's on State land. The well drillers went down to 150 feet on our land, didn't get any water, and went oh well I guess we have no choice but to go past the property boundaries.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Arsenic Lupin posted:

When last heard from, the Lupin family were coping with the fact that their septic system was both failing and illegal.

Today I found out that our well, which was dug a couple of decades ago, isn't on our land. It's on State land. The well drillers went down to 150 feet on our land, didn't get any water, and went oh well I guess we have no choice but to go past the property boundaries.

Yikes.

What's the solution? Buy the bit of land you're on from the state? Cap it and re-drill on your own land?

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Wondering why they stopped at 150. We have wells here in southern New Jersey over 400'.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Cyrano4747 posted:

Yikes.

What's the solution? Buy the bit of land you're on from the state? Cap it and re-drill on your own land?

I have no idea. The septic people are going to call us later this week and talk options.

corgski
Feb 6, 2007

Silly goose, you're here forever.

Cyrano4747 posted:

Yikes.

What's the solution? Buy the bit of land you're on from the state? Cap it and re-drill on your own land?

I mean after a couple decades of continuous use you could probably look at adverse possession laws.

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tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



corgski posted:

I mean after a couple decades of continuous use you could probably look at adverse possession laws.

Yeah but it's against the state lol, good luck

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