Two other points for Team Hardwood: 1) wood ages *better*. Nobody will ever pull up old carpeting and be excited to find an old lvp floor underneath. Old hardwood floors have character. Old dinged up plastic floors are just trash. 2) counterintuitively, hardwood is softer to walk on. I'm a big guy and I kinda stomp around and over the course of a day I can definitely notice a difference in my joints if I've been walking on wooden floors or on something else. Obviously carpet is even softer but carpet is just rubbing your feet in fecal matter after a few years no matter how hard you clean it (as you can easily tell by running a steam cleaner over it a few times). Bonus extra credit point: if it were really a luxury product they wouldn't have to name it luxury
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 14:32 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 08:15 |
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We redid our entire first floor minus powder room with solid maple last year. We're planning on living here for 20+ more years, so the extra cost was worth it. If we weren't, LVP may have been a more attractive option.
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 15:56 |
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Yeah, the people who insist that lvp looks and feels the same are either trying to sell lvp or trying to cope with not being able to afford the hardwood they really wanted. Don't get me wrong, decent lvp doesn't look terrible. We've got some. It's firmly acceptable. But lmao it's not comparable to hardwood. What it should really be compared against, though, are the various wood laminate and similar low priced wood finishes. I think it gets very competitive when you are in a price point where you're realistically looking at those rather than hardwood, and it sure as gently caress wears a LOT better. The area in our house that isn't LVP is that poo poo and holy crap I hate it. The PO's got a tiny bit of moisture on one spot near the door and it's bubbled because it's poo poo and the laminate is a laminate with probably garbage glue. It's not coming apart or otherwise unworkable as a floor, nothing bad enough that we have to go through the hassle of replacing it right now, but it's ugly as gently caress. I really, really should have pressed harder to replace that floor when we moved in.
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 15:59 |
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I've never regretted going for naildown solid oak with walnut borders in the attic, even though there's some unevenness due to the humidity at the time of install.
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 16:17 |
Cyrano4747 posted:. That's absolutely fair. My current place has a wood laminate flooring and after ten years it was wearing out and lvp would definitely have been a superior option.
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 16:25 |
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FuzzySlippers posted:My wife had the same idea but a little research about the pros/cons of actual hardwood vs the better quality lvp wood imitation got her to switch to that idea. I did all the work myself and it was tedious but not particularly difficult. That was a couple years ago and it’s worked out well. e:quoted the wrong person lavaca posted:My wife is getting really excited about the idea of replacing our carpet with hardwood floors. I am not opposed to the idea but would like to get some realistic advice first. Are there any goon-recommended guides to wood types, potential pitfalls, etc, or should I just spam this thread with questions? If you live in a warm/humid climate in a house over a crawlspace, LVP floors can rot out your subfloor pretty quickly if you don't have a good vapor barrier in the right place under the subfloor. Vinyl is much much much much less vapor permeable than carpet or hardwoods and can cause moisture to build up in the subfloor when you're running the AC. If none of that applies to your house, then yeah it's largely cost/aesthetics. Prefinished hardwood has some super durable finishes these days, finished in place hardwood isn't as tough but wears pretty well and naturally, but I'm also amazed how realistic looking LVP/laminate have gotten. I have not been able to find lvp/laminate in anything that looks like narrow strip flooring (1.2-3.25" wide) though, and I like narrow floors and think they're period appropriate in alot older houses, but it's pretty hard to find engineered hardwood that narrow as well. e: I'd also say the colors available in LVP/laminate seem to be a bit more 'on trend'? I've had trouble finding a more classic warm brown than I have with prefinished stuff which seems to lean a little more classic/timeless which is more my style. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Apr 29, 2024 |
# ? Apr 29, 2024 16:57 |
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FuzzySlippers posted:
That black paper is what's keeping the water out, mostly. Through a combination of puddles and capillary action wicking water got up behind and possibly down the side of the concrete. That scrap of foam might be spray foam from an attempted fix. I'd guess the other side is your stairs down, and that this spot is behind the piece of siding that's suspiciously newly painted from when it leaked before. Probably keeping puddles off your stairs is the easiest way to deal with it unless you get a professional.
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 19:00 |
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The fancier lvp we got is pretty comparable to standard wood floors to me and people ask if its real wood I can imagine someone more wood knowledgeable would spot it instantly and it doesn't compare to like renovation show fancier wood floors. When I've had old wood floors (I can't speak to something brand new with any potential scienced up changes the last decade or two) there are a lot of things that can stain, scratch, or damage it that the lvp floors shrug off. I just want my floors to floor I don't want to think about them. Like dealing with cat pee on a wood floor sucked, but it cleans up fine on lvp (we had an ancient cat where this was frequently an issue and she managed to stain the old kitchen wood floors that I never got around to fixing before it was replaced). My ideal home would be more rural with an older wood vibe and there I could see wanting to have some nice proper wood floors, but not worth the bother on this standard suburban home.Horatius Bonar posted:That scrap of foam might be spray foam from an attempted fix. The foam is more like a kitchen sponge than any old spray foam I've seen (there are lots of spots where they did go nuts with spray foam). I dunno if they ever made any kind of weird insulation like that. It seems like any form of weather barrier should be installed from the outside so I guess for now I can ignore it and repair the framing. The exterior issues can be a whole different project since it isn't currently a problem.
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 21:53 |
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The engineered hardwood floors that came with my house have a very matte, non-glossy finish. You can easily feel the wood grain through the finish. I really like it because it doesn't show dents and scratches, they just fade into the wood grain. I also like the wide planks. There's some synthetic floor in the basement that sorta matches the rest of the house, I don't know if it's LVP but it's no comparison; the hardwood is nicer.
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 23:58 |
I want to have my side entry door replaced. I got an Andersen recently for the back door and really like it. The side door is my primary entrance to the home though, and I currently have a smart lock on it. It's super convenient, and looking at the smart lock option for Anderson it doesn't seem ideal because you have to remember to lift up the handle before it can lock - I'm never gonna remember that. I am thinking maybe an Andersen isn't the right choice for this door. Any other recommendations for a quality entry door?
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# ? Apr 30, 2024 02:29 |
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Any reason you don't just buy a door without the smart lock, and move the one you already have and like from the old door to the new one?
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# ? Apr 30, 2024 02:49 |
Final Blog Entry posted:Any reason you don't just buy a door without the smart lock, and move the one you already have and like from the old door to the new one? I currently have an August lock and it won't work Andersen doors. So I guess I'm just looking for a good door brand recommendation that doesn't have that "lift-up to lock" mechanism that all the Andersen doors seem to have.
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# ? Apr 30, 2024 04:14 |
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I loved our cork floors, and would be my choice again, but with a big caveat of not with pets.
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# ? Apr 30, 2024 05:56 |
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You guys keep talking about hardwood floors but over here we got softwood floors
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# ? Apr 30, 2024 06:27 |
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Realistically, we are looking at engineered hardwood because shipping solid hardwood to Alaska is too expensive (and this isn't exactly a historic house that would benefit aesthetically from it). The fancier options I can get locally seem to be Kahrs and Kentwood. Otherwise it's mostly generic store brands through Carpet One, Flooring America or the dreaded Home Depot. There's already vinyl tile in the entryway and kitchen so I'm not too worried about mud and spills. I am a little more concerned about the opposite situation. Here in the frozen north, winter means occasional cold snaps that result in very low indoor humidity for 5-10 days at a time. We also like to turn the heater down if we're on vacation. Am I going to have to start worrying about these things now or is it a non-issue unless the house stays cold and dry for months at a time? My in-laws don't seem to worry too much about their floors as long as nobody walks on them wearing ice cleats.
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# ? Apr 30, 2024 07:01 |
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fletcher posted:I currently have an August lock and it won't work Andersen doors. So I guess I'm just looking for a good door brand recommendation that doesn't have that "lift-up to lock" mechanism that all the Andersen doors seem to have. What kind of door are you talking about, specifically? Your standard in-swing exterior door is going to have the same handle set mounting hole(s) regardless of brand, assuming you're buying one prehung. If you're talking about a sliding patio door, yes that will definitely limit your choices.
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# ? Apr 30, 2024 12:34 |
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^^ i was going to say.. how TF is a deadbolt lock not compatible with Anderson, do they have some kind of proprietary locking system. is the door thicker?
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# ? Apr 30, 2024 13:21 |
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Could also be a storm door?
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# ? Apr 30, 2024 14:31 |
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tater_salad posted:^^ i was going to say.. how TF is a deadbolt lock not compatible with Anderson, do they have some kind of proprietary locking system. is the door thicker? I believe all Andersen doors have a narrow stile that is not wide enough for 'standard' door hardware. At least, this applies to all of their full-lite glass doors and it looks like their other doors have a similar stile width. The same goes for Marvin doors - these are window companies making doors so their doors aren't really designed to be used with commodity hardware. Andersen has the one compatible keypad unit already mentioned, it's a Yale product that I think is specific for Andersen's doors. fletcher posted:I currently have an August lock and it won't work Andersen doors. So I guess I'm just looking for a good door brand recommendation that doesn't have that "lift-up to lock" mechanism that all the Andersen doors seem to have. Simpson and Trustile are decent, but honestly it comes down to price point. Every major door brand has cheap and expensive options and they differ greatly. I guess I've never seen a Thermatru that I like, but it's a big catalog. Go to some local lumber yards and see what they stock, they should have a showroom to help narrow it down a bit. You may also want to search for 'window and door' companies as depending on how your local market works that stuff might be at dedicated showrooms instead of co-located with lumber yards.
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# ? Apr 30, 2024 17:37 |
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We have an old house and I'd like to put in screendoors to improve air circulation, something like this. I am absolutely sure that the door frame will be out of true: house is 90 years old. If I order just a door, will a carpenter (as opposed to a handyman) be able to fit it? Or is that pretty much a lost art?
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# ? Apr 30, 2024 18:32 |
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Arsenic Lupin posted:We have an old house and I'd like to put in screendoors to improve air circulation, something like this. I am absolutely sure that the door frame will be out of true: house is 90 years old. If I order just a door, will a carpenter (as opposed to a handyman) be able to fit it? Or is that pretty much a lost art?
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# ? Apr 30, 2024 19:43 |
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Installing a door is an exercise in frustration. Leave doors to the pros.
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# ? Apr 30, 2024 19:46 |
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BaseballPCHiker posted:Installing a door is an exercise in frustration. Wouldn't dream of doing it myself, just trying to figure out which kind of pro I need.
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# ? Apr 30, 2024 20:14 |
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Arsenic Lupin posted:Wouldn't dream of doing it myself, just trying to figure out which kind of pro I need. You simply need the exact opposite of a wall pro
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# ? Apr 30, 2024 20:53 |
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What is it about hanging doors that makes it so difficult? I'll probably be hanging one here eventually, hopefully only ever the one, but people make it sound like its going to be a nightmare. (Thankfully in my case it will not be a door that needs to fit particularly well and gaps will be fine) Edit: poo poo I just remembered I'm gonna have to hang the door for the sauna, too, when I get around to building it. GlyphGryph fucked around with this message at 04:39 on May 1, 2024 |
# ? May 1, 2024 04:34 |
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Interior doors aren’t too bad. Exterior doors can be a pain due to how everything has to be just right, but a screen door can be half assed since it obviously isn’t air tight by its nature. My parent’s rental is old and weird sized on everything and I just bought a screen door slightly bigger and cut it down enough to fit
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# ? May 1, 2024 04:43 |
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GlyphGryph posted:What is it about hanging doors that makes it so difficult? I'll probably be hanging one here eventually, hopefully only ever the one, but people make it sound like its going to be a nightmare. (Thankfully in my case it will not be a door that needs to fit particularly well and gaps will be fine) It's like the three body problem. Fitting a pre-hung door into it's rough opening isn't too bad, even if the frame is off somehow, because the door jambs and door act as a single piece. It'a relatively straightforward. Actually hanging a door requires you to account for the frame, jambs, and door moving independently. Moving/adjusting one will almost always shift the others too. And that's on top of any compounding errors from when you hand measure and mortise. It's theoretically simple but in practice can feel impossible.
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# ? May 1, 2024 04:47 |
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GlyphGryph posted:What is it about hanging doors that makes it so difficult? I'll probably be hanging one here eventually, hopefully only ever the one, but people make it sound like its going to be a nightmare. (Thankfully in my case it will not be a door that needs to fit particularly well and gaps will be fine) It requires a mutitude of skills, finesse, jigs and routers. Please don't confuse hanging a door with installing a pre-hung door which is great invention that takes 98% of the required skill out of the process.
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# ? May 1, 2024 04:50 |
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It's a hell of a lot easier to replace an existing door slab that operates properly, but it still requires extreme attention to detail (to site the hinges & the latching assembly) and a fair bit of skill (get a good, sharp set of wood chisels; needed for the hinge recesses as well as the latch bolt plate). It is not a forgiving operation. Get it wrong, you're probably buying another slab.
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# ? May 1, 2024 05:35 |
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Maybe I'll make some cheap psuedodoors to practice first, hah. It doesn't sound like something I'm likely to get right the first time, and potentially an expensive mistake to make if I gently caress up. Also, speaking of mistakes, I've been continuing work on repainting the house, and only just realized that on the latest room I forgot to apply primer before painting the wood trim. Whoops. That usually means peeling paint in a year or two, right? I suppose there's not much I can do about it now, though.
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# ? May 1, 2024 12:07 |
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GlyphGryph posted:Maybe I'll make some cheap psuedodoors to practice first, hah. It doesn't sound like something I'm likely to get right the first time, and potentially an expensive mistake to make if I gently caress up. You think you can make a door?
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# ? May 1, 2024 12:56 |
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Given enough time, practice, and resources, why not? (I do not plan on spending the time resources though, lol) But that wasn't what I was saying. In that example wasnt me making a real door, bit just something I could use to practice the hanging process. A model rectangle in a model frame or something. I will need to be figure out how to make (furniture) doors eventually once I finish getting the hang of drawers, and I would like to make the sauna door myself. But I do not at any point intend on making my own actual house door, no. That is well beyond my abilities or patience. GlyphGryph fucked around with this message at 13:48 on May 1, 2024 |
# ? May 1, 2024 13:21 |
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GlyphGryph posted:Given enough time, practice, and resources, why not? (I do not plan on spending the time resources though, lol) The big problem with hanging a door yourself is that you have to deal with the old frame, and they're basically never fully square. Even assuming that they were built perfectly square (which is a loving huge assumption and just lol if the house is more than a few decades old) they're likely to have shifted a bit with time. The process is annoying because it's a lot of putting the door in, seeing it rubs at the top right, pulling it down, taking a little material off to try and fix that, re-hanging it, seeing it still rubs (or rubs in a new place), repeat etc. And this is ignoring things like inletting the door for the hinges, we're just going to assume that all that is done. Obviously a lot less of a problem if you truly give zero fucks and don't mind a quarter inch gap on every side and latching it with a gate latch. You can throw a door up on a shed with a lot less drama. My two cents is that pre-hung are the way to go even if it means you're pulling off dry wall from around the door frame to secure it. Doing that is a much simpler problem, and I can re-dry wall a chunk of wall, put trim back, and paint it all in less time because that's a much simpler set of skills that I'm comfortable with. Also the intermediate steps are the sort where you can put the project down for a bit and come back, while hanging a door is kind of an all or nothing thing: if I put the dry wall on hold I've just got patched but un-mudded drywall or unpainted walls or the trim is missing etc. If I get half way through hanging a door I still don't have a door, and that can be pretty annoying depending on the room.
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# ? May 1, 2024 13:55 |
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If the door frame I need to hang was in dry wall, I would absolutely do that. Unfortunately that whole wall is solid wood planks (and is absolutely not perfecly square) Although even then maybe it would still be easier to cut and fit a new frame into the wood. I'll investigate the option at least. Interior wall I'll be working with: Functionally, I just need something that will keep the cats out of the space beyond (they keep knocking all my tools off the shelves and walls), but I would like it to look good as well, so I dunno I'll figure out something. GlyphGryph fucked around with this message at 14:08 on May 1, 2024 |
# ? May 1, 2024 14:02 |
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Don't let these plebes scare you, they have no idea what they're talking about. Doors aren't even supposed to be square, they're rectangle.
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# ? May 1, 2024 14:48 |
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Motronic posted:It requires a mutitude of skills, finesse, jigs and routers. Please don't confuse hanging a door with installing a pre-hung door which is great invention that takes 98% of the required skill out of the process. So true. But good luck if youre dealing with an exterior door in an old house thats settled.
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# ? May 1, 2024 15:00 |
Me and my dad installed a new back door a few years ago. It’s not that bad. I’ll admit you definitely need some purestrain confidence to just plow through any problems that might arise.
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# ? May 1, 2024 15:05 |
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BaseballPCHiker posted:So true. 4 packs of shims needed, minimum.
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# ? May 1, 2024 19:22 |
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Hanging a door is easy. Making a door open, close, and latch easily and effortlessly is hard.
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# ? May 1, 2024 19:29 |
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# ? May 21, 2024 08:15 |
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I replaced a screen door 2 years ago with my Father in law. We shimmed and trimmed the hell out of it, it was a thing of beauty. But every winter because of moisture change or something, something in that part of the porch shifts and then the door rubs. And then the FIL comes back again around Memorial Day and the moisture has changed again and the porch shifts back and everything's fine again.
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# ? May 2, 2024 02:10 |