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We have sliding lower cabinets, and specifically, in the corners, there are sliders that pull the drawer out, then a second set that pull from the corner, perpendicular to the first. Allows for full use of the corner space without a lazy Susan. If you feel like adding plumbing, a hinged spigot over your cook surface. This allows you to easily fill large pots with water without having to carry them across. I don't have this, but I like it. pics: https://goo.gl/DYnIee If you have access to natural gas/propane then that's great for a cooktop. If you must have an electric cook surface, I recommend an induction cooktop. I replaced our old electric with induction last winter and I love it. Much much more responsive temperature changes, easier to cook without burning, much finer temperature control and much less waste heat making the kitchen hotter. I ended up with a higher end Samsung model http://goo.gl/vMbshX Note, I did not pay 3600 like that says. we got it new for 2700 I think. Induction is pricier in general though, they bottom out around $1000 I think. Seconding to plan out trash/recycling locations ahead of time.
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May 9, 2016 17:18
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angryrobots posted:I wish we had sprung for induction, but I don't remember there being anything near the $1000 range when we bought our glass topped Samsung 4 or 5 years ago. Doing a quick search, yeah I was lowballing it a bit. There are handful to be had at around 1400/1500 before any discounts though. I guess depending on what you are used to it may or may not be a huge difference. I had cooked on a gas stove for years, then when we moved to our current place that had a standard electric I just, man I hated it. It was just super frustrating, but the induction has pretty much fixed that for me.
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May 10, 2016 14:09
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H110Hawk posted:Seconding this. Bought the $800ish model with third rack for silverware. It adds a surprising amount of space and is well worth it. I also bought an $800 ish Bosch with a 3rd rack. It has been great. Had it 2 years now without any issue at all, no need to pre rinse things at all, its baddass.
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Sep 8, 2017 17:37
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I have a Bosch 800 series with the 3rd rack for silverware. It owns. Would buy again.
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Nov 17, 2017 20:48
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I am in the early stages of refinishing a basement room that was originally "finished" in about 1972ish. Exterior walls are block and they installed furring strips and then put wood paneling on that. When they installed electrical outlets, instead of surface mounts or anything, they just used a hammer to smash out a hole in the block wall and recessed the box in that. See pic.  So, how would you guys recommend I fix the wall here? Keep in mind this is below grade so I cannot access the opposite side of the wall. I have 2 thoughts so far. First would be to use rigid foam board and cut a piece to fit, caulk it in and use minimal expanding foam to fill gaps. Second would be to glue/caulk/affix a metal mesh to the inside of hole and when that is firm, fill it with mortar or cement. So, any suggestions? Edit: there are going to be 5 of these to deal with. emocrat fucked around with this message at 15:03 on Jun 16, 2021 |
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Jun 16, 2021 13:55
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Sorry about that. changed image host. should be good now.
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Jun 16, 2021 15:03
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PainterofCrap posted:I would shove something in the block, such as styrofoam. Not paper or wood...something nothing will eat. Yeah that is basically my instinct as well. Cut a piece if XPS board to fit, seal it in. It is likely the route I will go.
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Jun 17, 2021 14:09
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Vintersorg posted:Hell yeah - I currently do not have a stove to use! Sounds like you may get it in regardless, but im just gonna slide and throw out a plug for electric induction. I had a really nice gas range at my first house and it was great, when we moved the new house had a standard electric that we hated. We considered plumbing gas to the kitchen (the house had natural gas but only in the far opposite corner of the building), but decided to go induction instead. Absolutely no regrets. Induction solved basically every issue I had cooking with electricity while also making cleanup a breeze and removing any worry about my kid leaving the gas on or anything. Nice to use less petroleum products also. Its been nothing but upside for us.
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Jun 17, 2021 16:25
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Sounds like chaos!
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H110Hawk posted:The cool thing is whenever they decom old nasty plants every single person using electricity benefits, vs distributed causes like nat gas furnaces and internal combustion cars. It's this 100%. A gas appliance will only ever burn gas. An electric appliance is as clean as the grid which is in constant flux. But generally, over time and over the the life of the appliance it will contousuly move towards cleaner fuel. Also maybe I have solar >< (I don't. But I wish I did. But I also like my trees).
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Jun 20, 2021 01:53
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Looking for any and all advice about window replacement. current windows are original to the home which was built in 72 and is brick clad exterior. I have 9 original windows, 7 normal ones and 2 that are large sized living room ones. What material should I be trying to get? Argon filled? Something else? Any notion of cost expectations? Goals are to get better efficiency, easier to use/clean and clear panes instead of the style I have now where a window is made up of 16 separate pieces. I'm just starting to research and I'm looking for any advice to build a baseline of information so I can evaluate qoutes and options.
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Jun 20, 2021 16:50
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CancerCakes posted:-Lots of good info-- Thank you, this is all very helpful. CancerCakes posted:If you have any windows that get large amounts of sunlight consider solar control / low-emissivity / IR rejection coatings (different name for similar function), which essentially reduce the amount of IR passing through the window while not significantly reducing transmission. This especially is not something I had thought but may be very relevant. I do live in the US, in Central Virginia, and obviously I should have included that info. With regards to energy savings, I do not have any expectation of getting my money back in savings at all. I look at it more as an investment in quality of life. I would likely lower my energy bills some, but not enough for it to ever make sense on a purely financial level.
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Jun 21, 2021 13:26
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Talk of LEDs has reminded me of an issue I have that I haven't been able to find direct information on. I have 2 bathroom vanity lights that are 3 bulb fixtures, for standard A-19 bulbs. They are not particularly old, installed sometime in the last 15 years. We have LED bulbs in them and, it doesn't work great. sometimes a bulb wont come on, sometimes 2 won't. Sometimes one of them will be dimmer than the other. A few bulbs have died in these over the past few years. I don't believe there are heat issues as it is not a particularly enclosed area. I don't know what bulbs they are off hand, but we use them in other lamps in the house without issue. What's going on in these, and how can I replace them with something I can be confident wont have the same issues?
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Jun 22, 2021 15:48
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Looking for some advice on dealing with efflorescence. I recently started a project to renovate a section of our basement, I removed the wooden paneling that was installed and 1972 to expose the concrete block foundation walls and discovered a moderate amount of efflorescence. I plan to paint the block with Drylock or something similar, so I am cleaning the walls. I went it with a steel brush to remove loose deposits (worked well) then I scrubbed it why a nylon stiff bristle brush and a water/vinegar solution. It is much better, but its not clean. My real problem I think is that this is indoors. If it was outside I would get a cleaner on it, let it sit, scrub then blast it with a hose and wash everything away, but it is indoors and I don't really want to open up a hose or pressure washer inside the house. So im scrubbing this, but I cant really get it clean. Anyone got suggestions on how I should go about it? Yolo with a hose and a wet vac? A particular method or cleaner you suggest?
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Jul 5, 2021 00:53
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E-go power+ makes a swappable head pole tool that can be a trimmer and saw and weed Wacker. Also have mowers/blowers etc. It uses a 56v system and batteries can be bought with different capacities, all tools can use all batteries though. I have a push mower and backpack leaf blower from them and I like them both very much. Plenty of power, and easy to use. I've had the about 5 years now, only issue is one of my 2 batteries died at the 4 year mark. I can't vouch for the head trimmer as I haven't used it myself.
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Jul 9, 2021 22:29
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SpartanIvy posted:I have owned 3 Ego mowers and loved them all. My current one is the self propelled select-cut and it's a beast. I upgraded to it purely for its leaf mulching ability which is superior to the older models. I have only owned 1, but I also really really love my Ego mower. Just a vastly superior tool to the gas powered ones in my opinion, and like the above poster, I am never going back.
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Jul 30, 2021 17:56
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Wanderless posted:I'm looking to do a bit of a remodel that will involve a new kitchen. I'm looking at cabinet options. IKEA offerings look flimsier than what I have now so that's out. Other than Lowes/Depot and random local kitchen remodel places, are there other options I should be looking at? I would urge you to look at flat pack ready to assemble options. Searching rta cabinets should get you a lot of options. I can't recommend a specific source as it's been 10 years since I did it, but I have built a kitchen for myself with these type of cabinets and was very happy with it. Pay attention to the specifics of what you choose but you should be able to get the cabinets made from high quality ply with real wood doors and fronts. They come with hinges and such, you would buy handles and pulls separately. The catch of course is that you assemble them yourself, but in my experience it is straight forward and simple if you are reasonably handy.
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Dec 4, 2021 15:58
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The Slack Lagoon posted:I have a gas oven on its way out, but I think I'd like to replace it with electric. I have 100a service - is that enough to do an electric oven? Other big power draws are a condensing heat pump dryer and a central ac. I cant answer your direct question, but I just to dip in and encourage you to look at induction cooktops over traditional electric. I hated cooking on electric forever, but induction has been fantastic in every single respect.
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Jan 19, 2022 15:50
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Rythe posted:Anybody have a recommendation on a simple device or idea to prevent a child's door from being slammed during temper tantrums? https://www.amazon.com/Dreambaby-F117-Foam-Door-Stopper/dp/B001DD885W or similar. we have some that are panda bear shaped. they work great.
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Mar 10, 2022 15:58
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I got a guy coming in about 4 hours to talk to me about replacement windows. I don't know anything about replacement windows, so what are some things to keep in mind? My house is a 1972 brick ranch and im looking at replacing 10 original windows. 8 of them are double hung sliders and 2 are larger format with a picture window flanked by 2 narrow double hung sliders. All have grids. I am aware I will not make the cost back in any efficiency gains, if I do this it will be an investment in comfort/style/longevity. Any and all information you guys can arm me with would be appreciated.
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Apr 12, 2022 14:09
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I will definitely be getting multiple quotes (currently have 2 companies scheduled and waiting on a 3rd). Good note on checking fit and finish on existing jobs, thanks. Any advice on materials choice? Low e coatings and such?
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Apr 12, 2022 14:48
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I'm looking at replacing my front entry door, wondering if there's any advice on choosing between steel vs fiberglass? I am in Central VA, non coastal. I'm not concerned at all about like, extra security or anything, just longevity, maintenance and efficiency. That kinda thing.
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Apr 19, 2022 17:35
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Infinotize posted:I’m just gonna say, I have had regular electric, gas, and induction ranges, and I right now I have gas service to the house but an induction range. They are really nice. Agree with this. I also have natural gas service to my house but use an induction range. It's really great and I don't plan on ever going back to gas.
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May 5, 2022 11:47
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I am working on a basement renovation project and could use some advice. I am refinishing a room and looking to lay down subfloor over the concrete slab. The finished floor will eventually be carpet, it is entirely inside the bounds of the wall framing and there will no be no structural concerns anywhere. I have lived here for 7 years, through every weather was get in central VA and we have not had, and I do not anticipate, water issues. Basement stays dry, I have run moisture tests and am confident of the space as well as the grading around the building. My plan has been to use 1/2 thick xps foam on the concrete and then cover that with osb subfloor. This will give me a thermal break from concrete as well as provide a softer (than concrete) floor surface for us. I am finding myself a bit paralyzed here though as I worry about overlooking some aspect of the project and screwing it up. I have found numerous references and discussion online where people do this, however they seem to go about it many different ways. So my questions are basically: is this an inherently bad idea? and if not, how should I go about laying and securing the subfloor? Some options I have read about are as follows: Do the whole thing floating, with the weight of osb layer holding the foam down. Lay the foam as above but then float 2 layers of subfloor, where the 2 layers are screwed together to make a single unit. (downside is losing more height in the room). Laying foam then tapconing the osb into the concrete over top (if my experience with tapcons and old concrete is anything to go by this seems awful to do). Glue down foam directly to the concrete then glue down subfloor to the foam. Looking for any experience or feedback on this suggestions of other methods, anything at all to help guide me.
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May 5, 2022 20:31
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Epitope posted:Could adding 1/2 inch thick wood strips in between foam sections help? Trade some thermal and softness for stability? I will test this. I've kinda just disregarded sleepers as I've always seen them as made from 2x4s. But of course I could just make them thinner. So, this plan would be to fasten a grid of 1/2 wood to the slab, fill in with xps then lay subfloor and fasten that down into the wood grid. I understand your suggestion correctly?
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May 5, 2022 21:28
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ssb posted:Let's talk more about this because it would save me a bit of trouble. Historically, I have hated electric stoves because I like instant burner temperature changes (especially I hate waiting for them to heat up forever), I like to be able to visually see the flame to help gauge how much heat I'm putting in (this is probably not actually all that important so long as the burner dials are accurate) as well as notice if someone left a burner on, and they in general just seem a lot easier to cook on. Plus you can use it as a quick grill for some veggies or whatever if I don't feel like using an actual grill. Also, you can still use the burners if you lose power, which isn't all that uncommon in rural Virginia. Ill throw my experience in as well. We moved to our current house in 2015 and one of the first things we did was replace the lovely old style electric range. In our prior home we had installed a very nice gas range and we considered doing that here, but we would need to run about 50 feet of pipe and weren't really up for it. After some research we took the leap and moved to induction, and I will NEVER go back. it owns. We bought a Samsung ( I think the specific model is not made anymore but it looks similar to this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Samsung...211SS/320714840). I have used it since January 2016 and have never had a single issue with it, no service calls. It boils water faster than anything else I have ever used. Temp change is very responsive both up and down. Our model has LEDs in the glass top that simulate the look of blue burning gas that go up and down in intensity with the burner setting. Ours has actual knobs, I have used a few others that used push buttons for burner temp and I disliked that interface a lot. So, A+ highly recommend.
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Aug 8, 2022 18:47
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Blowjob Overtime posted:Yeah I should probably clarify - I would be in favor of dials if there was any other indication the cooktop is on for ours other than the digital readout. Or even just dials to change the digital readout instead of push-button. Dials are much easier to grab and adjust quickly if things are going sideways. To clarify on my end, our Samsung has the LEDs as I described in addition to an in glass numeric readout, 1-9 + power boil. In practice, I use the numbers to set temp, and the burner display to see what's on/which burner. My preference for the knobs is partly speed of use, but also I used a different model recently that had only push button controls and it sucked. Partly cause the push button is inefficient, partly cause the build quality was bad and it would frequently not register presses.
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Aug 8, 2022 22:11
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slurm posted:Room sized asbestos remediation is six figures right, ie "learn to enjoy your room as is" I had 400 sqf of asbestos tile with asbestos mastic removed by a remediation company 1 year ago for 3500$ all in. Central Virginia area.
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Jan 31, 2023 22:29
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Kylaer posted:I would appreciate recommendations on some appliances, please. I've read through a fair amount of this thread but not all of it - enough to pick up that Samsung should be avoided, for example. I'm looking to buy an electric washer and dryer and an induction stove. The consensus earlier in the thread was Speed Queen for the washer/dryer, but I also saw various people saying they use a lot of water and energy and their capacity is low - is there a more recent best recommendation for these? The first place I always look when shopping for big items is Costco, but of course I'm willing to look anywhere. I have had a Samsung induction slide in range for 7 years. Love it. No issues at all, no repair calls, it's been great. Really really prefer the physical knobs it has for burner temp, and while it seems gimmicky the led "flame" under the pots is actually helpful. Ymmv of course, but I recommend it completely.
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Feb 26, 2023 02:31
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and get a Wolf or Miele if they're really that much better, but I expect a lot of that cost is just paying for the brand name.
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As part of a larger project I need to build a backsplash for a home bar. Its very long and thin, about 6 inches high by about 12 linear feet. I would like to make it clean, smooth, waterproof and also, if possible, be very very thin. So, I am casting around for material ideas (suggestions welcome) and one thing I am considering is using rolled aluminum flashing. I am curios if anyone has experience with that and any advice they might have. Specifically I wondering/worrying about 2 things: getting it to lay flat, and holding it with adhesive. Any recommendations on adhesive to bond it to plywood are welcome as are suggestions on removing the "roll" out of it so it lays flat while adhesive sets.
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May 31, 2023 19:16
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My kitchen faucet broke today. It was old and sucked so whatever, fine. Can anyone give me decent pointers on what to look for, Brands, styles, price points etc. to make sure I end up with something that is actually quality? I just don't want to have something that breaks/doesn't work well.
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Aug 7, 2023 18:06
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skipdogg posted:Depends on what kind of style you want and what your budget is. I'd just go with a name brand faucet from LowesDepot that you like. I've got a Moen single handle pulldown faucet and it's a faucet. It works, matches the rest of the stuff. It does it's job. I was under the impression that Moen was fairly poor quality. Is that not the case? H110Hawk posted:Make sure you're in the $400+ section. There are built-to-cost ones around $150-200 and built-to-last ones in the other aisle. Or just go to a fixture store and get better service for the same price. This is sorta my suspicion. You think $400 is around the inflection point for quality vs not?
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Aug 7, 2023 18:48
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Thanks for the faucet advice everyone. Got a 400 ish one from Fergusen and it is installed and working. Hooray.
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Aug 9, 2023 13:03
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I had one ego battery die on year 4. Second and third ones are still working fine in year 7 and 3. Been extremely happy with my mower and backpack leaf blower from them.
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Oct 9, 2023 22:39
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It's not a quick solution but as a last resort you could fill the hole with very hard curing epoxy and then start fresh. If you do that I'd suggest drilling a small pilot hold to start with then using that to guide the tip of the larger diamater cocncrete bit.
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Dec 24, 2023 15:03
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