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I was wondering that myself, last time I hired a concrete truck it was a single guy with a remote controlled contraption that just poured out the stuff where he wanted it.
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Apr 8, 2016 15:11
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Here the entire floor slab rests on at least 4 inches of insulation underneath but usually more, also on the sides. PEX lines are just cast straight into this slab. No need to fiddle with anything when the floor slab is separate from the stuff that faces the outside and it gets nice and toasty.
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Apr 19, 2016 10:02
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We have an old hoover washer we bought used for 100 euros, lasted 5-6 years maybe. We line dry everything so no need for additional complexity with dryer functions.
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Apr 21, 2016 07:43
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Please, they are Robot craftsmen.
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May 8, 2016 06:49
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peanut posted:Geez I wasn't planning to hang it myself, you nerds. Wallpaper is the standard here for normal people houses that aren't doing old school mud or lime plaster. $10/sq meter for the good stuff. There are some excellent patterns, and some barftastic one. I've noticed this before, I think it's an american thing. Wallpapers are the norm in scandinavia.
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Jun 2, 2016 04:25
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Indoor carpeting was a thing that was decades ago here but is still a thing in the US...
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Jun 2, 2016 14:00
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The chandelier is like the rooms own dingleberry
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Jun 3, 2016 04:23
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Something I am doing ATM. This is 12 cubic meters of soil (about one truckload), good stuff, no rocks in this unlike the first 200 cubic meters we got elsewhere for our lawn. We didn't put a lawn above the support wall and only had gravel, but it was too much gravel, we have a pretty huge driveway (panorama shot from last year) so we're adding a patch of lawn there. And filling in other places in the lawn that needs it... In addition to adding a lawn here we'll also get rid of the remaining gravel infront of the house and cast a concrete walkway in place over it. Having a cement mixer makes everything look like a concrete mold.
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Jun 3, 2016 06:08
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I would only consider a Ferguson.
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Jun 4, 2016 16:47
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Last year I did the bricks, then autumn and winter sapped my interest in the outdoors, but now summer has returned and on sunday I started on the mold for the concrete countertop, this will be 5 meters long: Going to cast it in two sections with as small a seam as I can manage, to reduce the risk of cracks. I also got fiberglass for concrete to mix in as well, I spent all last year looking for acid stain products but cannot find any, it's a US thing, or atleast not a thing in Finland or Sweden. So I will probably add in some pigment when mixing the concrete. Not sure if I want dark gray or something in earth tones... If I could have gotten my hands on acid stain I would have gone with something "coffee" style.
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May 23, 2017 13:20
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Thanks, I got lots of garden projects ongoing and planned for the future. I want it this big so we can sit and eat there, cooking on the left, eating on the right. I want to build bar stools later that can be stored underneath the open section. This way I don't have to build a wooden outdoors table that has to be put away for the winter (for which I have no storage room). Last year I put the garden stones down and finished the terrace, this year I have made a tar / linseed / turpentine mixture, tinted with brown and red pigment to get the right color, so we'll treat the whole thing when temperatures start climbing above 18C regularly, it's only like 17C at its warmest now:  Shoulda put something underneath the stones to prevent grass growth! Ants also like to build nests down there, not that we mind ants, comes with living near the forest and they keep other things away, but when they get this close they find their way into the house. After that I suppose it's time to tackle the japanese style pergola / garden swing...
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May 24, 2017 06:34
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I did a quickie project last week because I hate the hose reel, it's always falling over and pissing me off. I had some scrap metal though. 
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May 31, 2017 13:03
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Cast half of the concrete countertop last weekend but it didn't go so well, hard to screed it when there's a wall on one side, and the round cutout for the grill is sticking up higher so I wasn't able to get with the trowel at it's back. Result is low and high spots in places. gently caress. Plan now is to just keep going, cast the other half, goto town with a diamond grinding blade and get down all the high spots and see if I can use self-leveling concrete to fill up the low spots. The 2nd part of the top is atleast accessible from both sides so screeding it flat is going to be easier.
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Jun 14, 2017 13:08
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Done with the casting now, did each half over the last two saturdays:
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Jun 19, 2017 06:29
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jarito posted:Quick deck question. We just bought a house in San Antonio, TX and it has an upstairs deck, show below. Maybe cover the roof with a tarp while washing it? Doing the same thing soon except it's on ground level so no roof to worry about. Using a linseed and pine tar oil mix that I've tinted myself to a red-brown color. But I think most normal people just buy some product straight from the shop.
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Jun 24, 2017 11:17
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Update on the outdoor kitchen, going slow, I had a 2nd project going too (background), well a 3rd and 4th too... What I've done is grind the top and sides somewhat, soften corners and fitted the sink, which required a lot of fitting and grinding since it was another design than I made the hole for. Treated the concrete instead with a teflon like coating, leaves the concrete as is, which I came to like, water just beads on top, supposed to be heat resistant too:  Next up is plaster. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Jul 26, 2017 |
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Jul 26, 2017 19:48
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Applying plaster to the brickwork now:
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Jul 29, 2017 17:03
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We have a central vacuum cleaner and it's great. We've emptied it a few times, you just unhook some latched and empty out the bin. No bags to worry about. I'd just want another outlet to plug it into. It's also great if you got these ducts on the floor that you kick open with your foot and sweep dirt into.
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Jul 31, 2017 06:56
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Yeah, or in our case, we only have one port centrally placed, and one long 10-12 meter hose that reaches everywhere, except into the sauna, and sometimes I'd like to vacuum outside the door on the deck so I'd like another port.
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Jul 31, 2017 10:50
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I'll just add another port if I want one, but our house isn't that big so we basically only needed one. Bigger houses and houses with more than one floor have multiple ports Pros: -Much stronger vacuum motor -Runs quieter -No vacuum to pick out and haul around -Air is ejected outside so no returned dust that passes through the filter -No vacuum filters or bags, our model has a cloth self-cleaning filter that filters outgoing air, but it goes outside anyway... -Can have dust sweep ports near the floor to sweep dust into, we have one. We much prefer it to the old fashioned vacuum cleaner.
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Jul 31, 2017 12:24
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That insane roof will definitely loose more heat than the walls. One way to correct the walls could be to add insulation on the outside of the walls.
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Oct 30, 2017 10:39
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I'd find the lowest spot in the concrete, where the water pools, from there on I would cut a channel in the concrete out to the side. The channel would slope outwards to create a natural runoff.
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Nov 8, 2017 13:19
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Looks like what people around here use, come in plastic or metal variations:
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Dec 31, 2017 22:19
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Hubis posted:Dear Homespergin' Thread: This bugs me from an energy use/environmental perspective. Definitely not the way to go as a species.
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Jan 15, 2018 07:16
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My parents have got a NIBE air to water heat pump in their 1970s home, replaced a wood and oil combo boiler, it works great they say, very little power draw to keep the house warm. But apparently most british houses are less insulated than my parents old house which is hardly a paragon of efficiency, and this in the mild UK climate to boot, those must be some leaky houses y'all are building there if my parents place is doing fine in much harsher conditions. http://www.bbc.com/news/business-19511637
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Jan 15, 2018 08:35
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I installed gutters and downspouts on my garage myself, it's not really that difficult, even came with instructions. I don't know how gutters would correct a roof leak though.
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Feb 22, 2018 19:11
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This downfall of snow we got (50cm in a day and more just keeps coming) makes me want a snow blower.   I just got done showeling snow using my trusty snow sled, but it just keeps coming, this morning it looks like I hardly done anything. So after work today I know what I got ahead of me...  The only cure for snow is a cozy fire.  I have to say I am really surprised at this axe by the way. I made the shaft myself from arctic birch (the local traditional material, hickory has taken over though on new axes) and I made it wrong, the S-shape is supposed to be inverted. It was my first axe shaft I made so I got confused but it still works despite being the wrong way around. The axe head I got for a few euros and even being an all-round style forest axe, a jack of all trades axe, it splits logs better than my dedicated Gränsfors splitting maul. It's just so easy to go out and split firewood with this thing. I guess a big factor is that it's a lot lighter so maybe the Gränsfors technically splits logs better (I can't tell if it does though), it's so much heavier that the work is a lot more effort. I feel a bit cheated now with the Gränsfors. Also the difference between the hickory handle on the gränsfors vs the birch handle is noticeable. The hickory is quite more durable of course, but the birch doesn't transmit the impact back through the handle so feels nicer to use.
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Feb 4, 2019 07:13
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peanut posted:I am excited about your new externally venting kitchen hood!!! It has been surprising to learn that so many people have lovely hoods or none at all. I... what? If a hood doesn't vent externally, where does it go?
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Feb 4, 2019 07:29
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Can we talk snow blowers here too. I am looking at an old Ariens, it's probably from the 1980s, it no longer has the original motor but instead a Briggs & Stratton 10hp motor. Are these old beasties still good? I generally trust older machines more than new ones, as long as they haven't been tortured.   Seller wants 640€ for it which seems a bit high, 450-500€ I think if it's in good shape and I guess an older machine like this is of higher build quality than a new one (they've had many decades to rationalize the design since).
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Feb 4, 2019 14:16
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Personally I am not sure what to recommend re: the windows. Are they wooden framed windows? If so I would keep them and fit an interior window in the old fashioned scandinavian style and turn them into double glaze windows. But it's hard to say without knowing what the current windows look like. Double pane windows like that are very efficient. They became the standard window in the late 1800s here and are not worth replacing with triple glaze, you would not recover the costs in savings, so triple glazing only comes on new windows. I like wood because it can be maintained with age, raw materials grow in the forest Apparently in Canada they have a system a lot like what I am talking about except they have it reversed, with the windows on the outside. Storm Windows they call it. https://wheretheroadbends.wordpress.com/byggnadsvard/windows/ His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 08:44 on Apr 1, 2019 |
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Apr 1, 2019 08:41
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Another overlooked thing is the roof, it's a major source of heat loss. Good insulation and sealing in the roof helps more than adding insulation to walls.
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Apr 3, 2019 06:29
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Normal people have got budgets and limited money, so it does factor in for most people. And it's a crap shoot with modern windows and the materials they're made of, so in a measely few decades they might be worse off in insulation rating than the old wooden windows were. And they where a massproduced product requiring specific components that might not be available, infact I bet most windows are not made to be repaired but instead replaced again. It's not a sustainable practice so I don't like it. Wooden windows can be maintained and even upgrade / modified for the least environmental impact.
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Apr 4, 2019 |
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Apr 4, 2019 04:53
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With windows constructed like I have suggested, one isn't compromising hardly anything against modern windows on the comfort issue or energy savings, and it might not even be that expensive since it's not a complete set of windows with multiple layers but an interior sash fitted to existing windows, sealed tight on the inside, the outer layer allows for some air flow though. Assuming the windows in place now would be compatible with such a thing anyway. My reasoning was to get within 90-95% of a modern three pane window for cheap, and also I am not fond of the throw away and buy new culture, hence I like to offer an alternative view. Nobody has to take it as gospel.
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Apr 5, 2019 13:47
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Jaded Burnout posted:But here you've pushed it from "recouping the [entire] cost" of replacement windows to energy savings "factoring in", which means you're no longer arguing about the same thing. If you go back and read I was talking about how efficient double pane windows were and that they are so efficient that from an economic perspective it's not worth replacing them. That's just a statement on it's own. Of you recall I stated this might not apply in this situation because of the design of the windows, their quality and what shape they are in now. But the person in this case has single pane windows and so an upgrade would definitely help. My idea was maybe he could modify his existing windows to two pane windows like the scandinavian traditional windows, might be cheaper and last longer and better. quote:And now we're shifting to the disposability argument, suggesting that a few decades worth of better insulation makes replacing windows now not worth it? Not sure I follow that one exactly. So what if we're shifting, two things can't be true at once? I was saying 10 decades of better insulation is better than say two decades. You seem to be thinking I've argued to let the windows be as they are? My suggestion was, maybe (impossible for me to tell, I do not know the details) then it's possible to upgrade the single pane windows to maybe 90% of what a three pane modern window would be, going by the types of windows I am accustomed to here. I don't see an inconsistency here. It would still be an upgrade from the current situation. quote:And now we're fully off the financials and onto personal preference and environmental impact when we started the paragraph talking about using energy bill savings to pay off higher priced replacement windows. I again don't seen an inconsistency. Only way this makes sense to me is if I said, leave the widows as they are. But that's not an argument I've made. quote:but I hope you can see that by slowly pushing a discussion in this direction you've inadvertently scooped up all the other things we were talking about and set them up as opposition to wood-framed window construction, and in doing so you've muddied everyone's positions on the topics. I believe your post stems from a misunderstand of what I have written. P.S. Jaded Burnout posted:Spring Heeled Jack is referring to the common fallacy of "spend a bunch on sextuple glazing and you'll make it back in energy savings". Actually, in my view, that's what I have been talking about too... His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Apr 5, 2019 |
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Apr 5, 2019 18:01
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Fallom posted:Colorado gets a lot of hailstorms but people spread "replace your roof every 4 years" as a rule of thumb instead of the far more sensible "get it inspected if the hail was the size of baseballs." My parents have got a tile roof and it's still fine after 40 years and will probably make it longer than the house, sheet metal roofs are generally expected to make it 50-70 years as well. Barring accidents anyway.
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Apr 19, 2019 06:29
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We put asphalt shingles on these barrel saunas we manufacture at the company I work at. They will last the lifetime of the product (20-30 years). But yeah I can't fahtom putting it on a house, like a real house.
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Apr 19, 2019 07:35
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Tjärpapp in swedish, or takpapp. It's mainly used on smaller structures, like sheds, gazebos, outdoor saunas like I mentioned. But it has been found on houses in sweden, believe it was more popular in the past. Particularly on flatroofed buildings.
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Apr 19, 2019 10:07
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nielsm posted:Yes tagpap is a thing but it's not used as tiles, I only see it sold in rolls. I don't know about denmark but here it's sold in rolls too, but not only rolls. The stuff we use comes pre-cut and is fitted like shingles but it's really the same stuff. Looks like this:  And here's some american stuff:  [edit: clarification] His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 12:13 on Apr 19, 2019 |
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Apr 19, 2019 11:56
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I don't got an AC to clean. But I do have a centralized ventilation system with built in heat-exchanger (FTX ventilation). I clean those filters 3-4 times a year. I always am ready with the vacuum when I pull out one filter, bugs, dead wasps and stuff tends to fall out. I have considered putting a finer meshed net over the air intake, just a grille now.
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Apr 26, 2019 13:49
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Hey we build those. Well not that exact one, but that style.
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May 28, 2019 13:18
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