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peanut posted:I want kitchen suggestions too. I had the builders add these massive niches (milk carton for scale) and it's finally time to add hardware. The back is drywall but the thin vertical sides are reinforced with proper wood. The white surface is wipeable wallpaper... Have you considered hydroponics? 
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Apr 11, 2017 06:19
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So I have a problem and I'm not sure how to fix it I have some drawers in my newly bought house where the previous owner hosed up and didn't tighten a bracket into place. This means that the drawers collide with the one below them when they are opened and closed. What's the trick to fixing this. The screw is covered by the counter on top, and there doesnt seem to be any vertical movement in the screw. I can shift it from side to side. Anywhere else on the forums geared towards sorting this sort of stuff out?  
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Apr 22, 2017 03:20
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peanut posted:Oh my! I would probably give up on that original screw and put some L brackets on each side to fasten that vertical bit to the underside of the counter. Tried that lol. Can't get the screw to move. Do I need to saw it out?
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Apr 22, 2017 03:54
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dyne posted:Did they not screw it in enough or did the center of the cabinet sag and pull it out? If it's particle board it wouldn't hold a screw well. Didn't screw it in enough. They're touching each other because of the sag in the middle and angling the drawers inwards just a little bit as well
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Apr 22, 2017 05:05
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That's clever but still looks like a pain in the dick
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May 13, 2017 06:33
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Skutter posted:I'm glad I found this thread. We just bought a house back in October and are slowly working on random projects around the place. Right now we are trying to decide which major project we should do, as far as energy costs go... Our living room was built as an addition in 1985 and has 0 insulation, so we need to get some blown in. It also has a giant sliding glass door that lets in a lot of heat as well, plus our two other doors could stand to be replaced. Also, all of our windows are from when the house was first built in 1956 (they look similar to this: https://windowtintfl.com/wp-content/uploads/front-of-home-window-tinting-Debary.jpeg), so they are not very good efficiency-wise either. For anyone with any experience with or knowledge of this, what would you take care of first? Is it just a matter of the cost and going from least expensive to most? Or is one more important than the others? Might be worth contacting a pro and doing an energy audit. Some guy will basically show up and make a report for you of expected cost savings of the various things you can do to improve things. Well worth it when I did mine, and depending on where you live it may even be covered partially by an energy program
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Jun 15, 2017 00:06
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Alereon posted:I would note that you should check what kind of audit it is, around here they just look at your appliances and faucets and give you some LED bulbs. What is really worth the money is thermal imaging viewer checks of your insulation, blower door tests to quantify air leakage, and duct leakage testing. This is what we did specifically. A lot of places with give free bulbs and faucet aerators too which is nice, but cheap enough anyways
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Jun 16, 2017 06:06
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deadwing posted:Ugh, ants (probably carpenter, these dudes are huge) are coming into my back bathroom and driving me crazy. I saw one a few days ago, whatever, crushed it and flushed it. The next few days, there's three or so in there, gently caress it, crushed em and flushed em. Today, they're going apeshit. Have to have killed 40 or so in there. No lines, no tracks, just all scouts probably coming in from outside because of the rain. Killed a few in my toilet tank too, fuckers were going in there for delicious moisture. So, whatever, I'll find where those dudes are coming from and shut em down. I swear by terro. Got a gently caress ton of Ants in my house when we came back from camping one weekend and this cleared them out. On a side note, if you know where they are coming in, I threw down flour which is supposed to gently caress up ants pretty hard
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Jul 9, 2017 06:13
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I ordered outdoor Terro baits, but they won't get here until Monday. Probably buy a couple of the normal ones from Home Depot tomorrow and just stick em out on the lanai and hope they can steer them away from coming inside.
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peanut posted:Yup! Daruma/darma/dharma. Based on a ugly dude who meditated so hard his arms and legs fell off. Or he started Shaolin Kung Fu. That said, dharma is a whole nother concept that's more related to Jainism. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dharma?wprov=sfla1
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Jul 25, 2017 07:02
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Could have had a dope demon pit, man
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Oct 7, 2017 23:03
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Been looking to winterize my new windows for the season, and was wondering if what I have for curtains is enough? They are listed as thermal but I'm not exactly sure if that's marketing or what. Material doesn't seem particularly thick but I'm not sure if that's what's important Live in Calgary if that gives a rough idea of the weather. curtains on amazon
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Oct 18, 2017 23:23
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peanut posted:Get a Toto with heated bidet seat. Bidet talk, is there a way to do this without spending a ton of money? Any of the nicer ones I see are way too much and the cheap ones look pretty sketchy
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Nov 4, 2017 06:41
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Southern Heel posted:1930's - I don't have a picture but the main consumer unit (and the units in the garage and outside office) are all brand new. The kitchen was wholly re-done about ten years ago. The optimist in me is hoping that whoever installed those would not have permitted non-compliant wiring in the house; but I won't be able to get into there until the end of the month (when we actually complete). Is an inspection not a thing prior to purchase? If anything it would be a bargaining tool on final price for the place right?
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Nov 14, 2017 17:04
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm tired of sanding the corners (edges, really) of freshly plastered rooms, and I've only done two so far. Weed?
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Dec 8, 2017 20:37
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cakesmith handyman posted:Use the attic space, but install a series of Korben Dallas/5th element pull down weapon racks. Do it
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Dec 27, 2017 22:23
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tetrapyloctomy posted:I'd drill a hole in it and see if water collected. You're going to have to repair it at some point anyway. If you use a hole saw, say 2", you can also replug the hole with what you remove if you're careful, which means only a weird skinny ring of smooth spackle on an otherwise textured ceiling instead of a more obvious defect. Would you not just drill a little hole and spackle it?
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Jan 25, 2018 17:36
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Pigsfeet on Rye posted:What qualities are you looking for in a couch? I looked this loving thing up a week or so ago and now Google is convinced I want one and wont stop serving ads
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Mar 30, 2018 21:14
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TofuDiva posted:Eh, just plan to post about your house once you move, then it's relevant I agree with this. Don't put yourself in a sketchy situation bending over backwards for these guys.
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Oct 19, 2019 00:34
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Is there any benefit to insulating/weatherstripping the garage door on my attached garage? I won't be using it as a workshop during my Canadian winter, but my living room is right above it and obviously the floor gets a bit cold. Not sure if it's the sort of thing that will ever earn it's money back, or if it's even a good idea. Anything hung I can do to make my place warmer I'm for, but I'm not sure whether or not the garage makes sense as it's not being used for anything other than parking my car
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Oct 23, 2019 06:43
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PremiumSupport posted:Even if your garage is unheated, you'll see the most benefit from insulating the walls and door. That said, anything to keep the cold air out and the less cold air in will help a little bit. Part of a townhouse complex built a while back so the walls are as insulated as expected for a 30+ year old building. So if I insulated the door with a fiberglass kit and stripped it that would definitely help, cool. I've just fixed the weatherstripping on the door from the garage to the house which should make a huge difference heat wise as well
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Oct 24, 2019 00:36
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devmd01 posted:New speed queen is getting delivered tomorrow. They have a ten year warranty right now, parts and labor. Let me know how you like it. I really want to pick up one of those mother fuckers
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Nov 18, 2019 18:31
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Demolishing my currently unused ensuite bathroom and putting in a new shower, vanity, etc. Where's the best place to buy glass showers in Canada? Everything im finding at home Depot etc seems to be 32" or 36" by 40"+ but I want something a bit wider at around 40"+x40"+. Looking for corner shower, agnostic on shape but want to be able to tile the back 2 walls. Bathrooms 8*8 ft roughly if anyone has solid ideas for an empty corner of the room which was once an unused linen cupboard
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Jan 4, 2020 03:33
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Sirotan posted:Sorry the quality is poo poo because dude couldn't figure out how to send this to me any way but via MMS: This is some good poo poo right here
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Jan 9, 2020 17:48
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Getting close to putting down tile for this bathroom. Anyone have recommendations on tile underlay? It's just plywood at the moment, and I know I can just do mortar, but I'm seeing all this Schluter leveling plastic that looks pretty good
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Feb 3, 2020 17:54
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Hmmm, well at this point I'm just trying to find my best cost/effort point. Haven't really layed down a tile floor in ages. Bathrooms 8*8 ish which sucks for the ditra dimensions I can buy. Not totally sure what to go with, just want to do the job properly and not leave too much room to create problems for myself with leveling
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Feb 3, 2020 19:45
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Awesome. Any reason to gently caress around with the self levelling underlay? I imagine whatever I go with I'll want some sort of waterproofing (liquid redguard?)
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Feb 3, 2020 21:26
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AFewBricksShy posted:Only if you need it. And yes unless you’re slab on grade you’re going to want to waterproof at least the shower. If you are slab on grade I’d still end up waterproofing the shower. Shower is waterproofed as gently caress (kerdiboard). It looks like I'm going to do backerboard for the floor (then paint on a waterproofing?) then the tile
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Feb 3, 2020 22:58
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Tile talk. I'm subway tiling halfway up the walls on my ~8x8 bathroom as well as tilling to the roof in the corner where I'm putting my tempered glass shower. How should I be realistically approaching this? Is it a case of doing one wall at a time and coming back at it between sessions if I only have time to work on it in the evenings? Is it the sort of thing where I need a much longer period of time so I can try and rush through it and do it all at once?
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Mar 11, 2020 00:10
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Bought some Philips bulbs for a vanity light that's hooked up to a GE smart dimmer. I'm getting some really bad humming when dimming the bulbs which is unexpected as they are "dimmable" Phillips. Did I gently caress up somewhere when wiring things up? Id expect these to work pretty decently as they are "dimmable" as per the box. I have an led ceiling light that has had zero issues dimming on the same circuit.
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May 11, 2020 05:52
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Just bought a new place and want to put some legitimate effort into decorating the place and color coordinating it. Any good recommendations for where I should start? The walls are a nice neutral grey so I'll likely be trying to avoid painting, rather decorating it through rugs, furniture, etc. I have some furniture from my old place but that will mostly be going to bedrooms and the basement so I have a lot of room to get exactly what I need for the space
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Oct 10, 2021 18:01
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This might be more of a question for the home automation thread, but has anyone dealt with an automatic water shut off system? I'm buying a place built in 89 that has some poly b in it. Not too worried about damage because its on the better end of risk factors (right kind of poly b, installation date, proper fittings), and I plan to replace it eventually. Reading into the flo by moen, and it seems pretty bananas as a stop gap in the meantime. It does some basic use monitoring so if you have a major leak it shuts your main water off automatically. More importantly though, you can run health checks on your system during off hours to look for minor leaks such as a leaky tap, toilet, or pinhole leaks in the poly b.
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Nov 5, 2021 22:41
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Inner Light posted:drat that's expensive, I know any avoided water damage can pay for itself, but lol at a pinhole leak in a toilet getting you back your $900 for the Moen Flo. Maybe it's a good thing though, I'm not sure. My concern is more developing a pinhole leak in some poly b, and passive monitoring would be great for that. Regardless, it would be some mix of the flo and physical flood detectors in high risk areas. Seeing about 700$ cad to grab one so not the most horrendous cost to implement it
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Nov 5, 2021 23:36
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PageMaster posted:Anyone have experience with home water detectors and shutoffs? It looks like the two big-names are Flo by Moen and the Phyn Plus for about the same price. I'm half interested in it for the emergency shut shut off, and half for small leak detection. Do they actually work as intended? Any pros or cons to one or the other? I'm in the market and the Moen flo looks legit. I'm still not sure on the value of adding additional sensors, but I'm installing mine specifically to catch long term pinhole leaks and for that it seems perfect
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Nov 16, 2021 06:21
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H110Hawk posted:Happy Thanksgiving folks. I would like to thank one of these threads for telling me that the express mode on the Bosch dishwasher is worth using and actually gets dishes clean in 30 minutes. I have a feeling today is going to be a 4 load day. Will it have problems cleaning at all, or should I just use it all other time unless I have some particularly bad pot?
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Nov 26, 2021 05:34
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pmchem posted:Heat. She'll be picky about the looks, but that's her domain. I don't have strong opinions on them, but figured I'd see if goons had thoughts since there are Very Strong Opinions on things like dishwashers here (informative, of course!) Heat wise electric is pretty energy efficient vs gas so that's always nice
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Nov 29, 2021 01:46
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falz posted:Efficient vs gas? I mean gas is way more efficient if we're talking $$ Are they? Maybe I missed something but I was pretty sure electric was substantially less to run https://www.hamiltonhomecomfort.com/gas-versus-electric-fireplaces/
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Nov 29, 2021 03:10
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Involuntary Sparkle posted:We just bought our house and the previous owners had put in an IKEA kitchen and we're honestly very pleased with it so far. It looks great (it's approximately 5 years old too) and we've already been able to make a few minor changes because of how modular it is. If/when we remodel in the future we're definitely going to look at IKEA first. Our old place had an Ikea kitchen and it was great. Especially nice because Ikea sells drawer/cabinet organization designed to exactly fit their kitchen stuff
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Dec 4, 2021 19:23
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Anyone familiar with heating a jacuzzi tub? New place has one but it completely drains my hot water tank filling it 3/4 of the way I'd get a second tank, but it seems like the real move is getting some sort of inline heater. Totally out of my element here w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Dec 14, 2021 |
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Dec 14, 2021 01:08
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Maybe a question for another thread, but I'm upgrading an Ikea cabinet with a wood tabletop and goofed a bit on making it, so the bottom is a bit bumpy/warped. Being that the wood isn't perfectly flat against the top, should I attach them with some pl400 adhesive and clamp it? Or is there something more appropriate for attaching them. Not super uneven or anything but dealing with some of the excess wood glue from making the countertop is going to be a pain in the dick to get perfectly flat...
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Feb 3, 2022 05:47
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Slugworth posted:Grout should never be used in corners where two planes meet. It will always crumble as the walls shift over time. Find a caulk that matches the grout color as close as possible (it'll be sold in the same aisle as grout). I've been noticing this in my new places master bath shower. Should I go in and caulk all my corners etc preemptively?
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Feb 18, 2022 21:20
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