|
I also have metal studs and am dreading figuring out how to mount a TV. I might outsource it to a Task Rabbit person, hopefully they don't screw it up.
|
# ¿ Jul 19, 2021 04:46 |
|
|
# ¿ May 7, 2024 13:24 |
|
Motronic posted:Some rando person is a crapshoot. What you want a molly bolts. They come in various capacities. Modern TVs aren't that heavy, so I'm assuming that's what you're talking about. Are you saying you wouldn't bother trying to mount a modern TV into the metal stud, and/or that mounting it to the stud is not possible? My current TV is 55" and 38 lbs, not including the weight of any mount, but ideally I would want to future proof the mount location in case I go bigger in the future.
|
# ¿ Jul 19, 2021 04:54 |
|
Beginner question. This quarter round is installed to begin with by a nail gun right? One of the nails missed the baseboard so this popped out. To fix it, should I pick up brad/finishing nails, hammer it in as deep as I can, cover nail with spackle and paint white? e: and yes my floors are dusty, working on that.
|
# ¿ Jul 19, 2021 18:17 |
|
Yeah I'm weighing just dollar store super glueing it to the baseboard at the top, I just think if it ever has to be serviced (e.g. floor covering refinished or changed), it will be annoying for the next person and may crack if they need to break the glue. Thanks guys.
|
# ¿ Jul 19, 2021 18:49 |
|
stealie72 posted:Have you tried a magic eraser or straight up sandpaper? When you say things you're willing to sand -- do you mean sand and repaint? Or sand the edges of where you're using the magic eraser to feather the marks? I'm going to use it to get some minor crap off of my painted walls, but I'm concerned the end result will be more noticeable than just leaving the minor crap there, due to difference in color/sheen.
|
# ¿ Jul 21, 2021 15:53 |
|
Motronic posted:Yeah, but you will want to figure out how deep it's going to be from the face of the wall to the back of the lath and get the right size anchors. Still haven't figured out whether it's worth it to go into my steel studs for this stuff with toggles, or just have more toggles and go through drywall alone. What is the deciding factor here, simply how much hassle I am OK with to find the center of a stud? And more holes than strictly necessary since I probably won't hit the center first time? This would be my first time hammering through a wall in my life so far, lol. Dunno how I've managed to avoid it.
|
# ¿ Jul 22, 2021 22:20 |
|
I don't know anything about Bosch warranties, googling I see they're only 1 year which sucks. Maybe you could give them a call and see if they'll help you out despite being over 1 year.
|
# ¿ Jul 24, 2021 16:44 |
|
QuarkJets posted:We are looking at buying a house, and the preinspection report found a slope in one of the bedrooms of 2" per 6'. From what I read, that's a huge slope. What could this mean in terms of structural stability if the other rooms are level? Is the floor in that room just warped or is the house probably structurally unstable and shouldn't be inhabited. We've gotten these questions in the house buying thread before. AFAIK the only way to get an answer to that is to hire a structural engineer as part of your inspection period. Once closing happens, there is no going back, so what if a structural engineer at that point says the cost would be prohibitive? The only reasonable way to do it is during inspection.
|
# ¿ Jul 25, 2021 18:56 |
|
Bioshuffle posted:I think it's a scam, but we didn't get a choice. My real estate agent said it was due to the pandemic Haha this makes no sense. Where is the paperwork for this requirement? Did your REA show you anything in writing about this? I would be livid. Also what is the HW company?
|
# ¿ Jul 26, 2021 16:47 |
|
Newbie question: Is there any significant disadvantage to replacing wooden original windows with vinyl replacements, besides the fact that you're losing an original piece?
|
# ¿ Jul 26, 2021 22:48 |
|
Speaking of window chat, I have builder grade wooden windows and double glazing on my 15 year old place, and the pane seals are starting to go. Some are cloudier than others, and the fogginess is sometimes only noticable by me because I'm cursed to see those details. I'm dreading the $250 each pane and figuring out when I should pull the trigger on reglazing. Check out some bad photos, what would you do? Also, is it normal to have them look super cloudy when looking out both panes at the top? Windows open at bottom: https://i.imgur.com/aOnWcoZ.png Issue with window at right: https://i.imgur.com/IBYWmw7.jpg e: most are pretty clean but I need to do a full cleaning before ruling out dirt. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 13:57 on Jul 27, 2021 |
# ¿ Jul 27, 2021 13:54 |
|
Sous Videodrome posted:dryer vent stuff Hey man, I have a foil duct too where I moved and my inspector said it was a safety issue and I should get it replaced some point soon. How are you aware there are pinhole leaks in the foil duct? Not positive how big of an issue it is, but I felt comfortable leaving mine for now.
|
# ¿ Jul 30, 2021 14:48 |
|
devmd01 posted:I called the right guy to clean my fence, he has a serious setup. Totally worth $300 for as much fence as I have. Had him clean the playground too while he was here, might as well re-stain that while I am doing the fence. You got pictures of the fence for us, any before/after?
|
# ¿ Jul 30, 2021 16:47 |
|
cruft posted:cat5 has a maximum theoretical speed of 100Mbps The dude said CAT5 but it's possible he meant CAT5e. 5e is good for 1Gbps up to 100 meters. Your max speeds for WiFi also seem low and depend on a ton of factors, most importantly router. A modern wifi router with 3 antennae should pull at least 300Mbps, not sure if it's 802.11n or what these days but there's MU-MIMO/AC and a bunch of other crap involved. I have no trouble getting 350-400Mbps on my wifi and I have a bog standard Amazon TP-Link Special, nothing fancy like the other posters in this thread. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Aug 4, 2021 |
# ¿ Aug 4, 2021 22:18 |
|
Queen Victorian posted:Also I've heard that gas dryers can cause yellowing in your whites after a while. Sounds like an urban legend. Anecdotally have never seen this, and I don't think there's any evidence to this claim. Other stuff sure but not this one.
|
# ¿ Aug 4, 2021 22:34 |
|
Ball Tazeman posted:
There you go. I'm wondering what's going on there. Did the top of the window frame kind of... collapse a bit and allow a gap?
|
# ¿ Aug 6, 2021 21:38 |
|
BonoMan posted:Yeah we won't accept them unless something falls through with others (and we like the terms of course). As a buyer I asked my REA about expirations. They said their experience on the selling side was they ignored 100% of them (the time, not the offer itself), because they never had a deal during their career where a buyer's expiration date/time was followed through with by the buyer.
|
# ¿ Aug 10, 2021 04:27 |
|
actionjackson posted:Being a modern design slut, this unit in a Mies Van der Rohe designed building almost makes me want to move to Chicago, but they don't allow dogs (wtf) I live in the city and am fairly familiar with values here. That is a great neighborhood, old building though. There are probably condition issues not apparent from the photos. It is priced to sell because 1BR units can be difficult to move, even in a neighborhood like that. There is no parking included, and street parking will be functionally impossible in that area (very dense). Will probably run you $150-200 a month at least. It seems like a fair price, but I agree with the other poster it is probably artificially low due to some undisclosed financial or reserve issues that would come out in the buying process. Something tells me they don't have a recent reserve study, which an old large building like that absolutely should. My 2B/2BA condo a few miles north of there has a $300 HOA, but we don't have a pool.
|
# ¿ Aug 19, 2021 17:57 |
|
actionjackson posted:thanks. the listing does say it includes a garage parking spot. I would think you could easily live there without a car though anyway? that's the main reason chicago appeal to me - lots of condos, and lots of density. If you look closely at the listing info provided to MLS, it says 'fee/leased', I believe meaning no parking is included with the cost of the unit. (i.e. you do not receive a deeded parking spot or a 'limited common element' spot that is only available to be used be the unit owner). I see it says 'garage parking' in the real estate agent decription, which I think is quite sneaky. There is garage parking (notice it does not say 'parking spot'), but it is not free / included. Most people looking to buy in this part of the city can afford an extra $200 / mo for parking, but I looked particularly at places that were not like that. In Chicago dense neighborhoods, having a deeded or common element spot will be worth ~$15-30k extra, so when you see below market places it usually means they do not have a spot. It can also sometimes be deeded separately. e: and yeah you don't need a car in that part of the city. In the winter you just need to be prepared to walk a bit or plan your bus/train transfers...it will take longer to get pretty much anywhere outside of your neighborhood without a car, which is why I like having one, but it is mostly a selfish waste. I live a 5min walk from a train station (CTA) so I have an easy choice between the two. I'd encourage you to come here, we have a wonderful town. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Aug 21, 2021 |
# ¿ Aug 21, 2021 01:52 |
|
Ahahaha the wrapping paper
|
# ¿ Aug 23, 2021 20:40 |
|
falz posted:Someone posted about this awesome looking Thermostat last winter or something: drat that looked dope, what a shame. FWIW, I really enjoy the latest full color Nest (not the cheap garbage Nest they built to provide with energy company subsidies). It's got a metal body, the LCD is good quality, and the UI is real slick. I find it better looking than Ecobee which is a rounded square vs. the classic circle.
|
# ¿ Sep 2, 2021 16:53 |
|
Pre-covid with regular commutes, I think the jury is still out on if it's better to let A/C cool your home while you're gone vs. turning it off while you're away. Probably comes down to type of equipment and home. In my mind it all comes down to hours of use per day on days with identical temperature gradients. I think I've found my total hours of use are down when I leave the A/C on a warmer temperature while I am away, so sometimes I use that feature. But as been said I'm home the vast majority of the time now anyway! What a weird couple of years.
|
# ¿ Sep 2, 2021 18:30 |
|
nm posted:Also, why do I need a c-wire? Like even the eco bee needs me to install something on the HVAC system to make it work without a c-wire and I'd prefer not to go on my roof. Why doesn't someone just build something with a power brick or something? Depending on your system, Nest does not require a C wire. I don't have a C wire and have never had issues, used it for 5 years in my old and new place. Unfortunately it is tough to tell without a multimeter until you buy one and try it, but you can find out within a return period. However if you have a power outage, it likely won't be able to boot after, but it has a Mini USB port on the back that you hook up to any good charger (cable not included) that charges it up in like an hour. The small amount of current it needs to maintain battery voltage can usually be sucked from the other thermostat wires. Source: https://support.google.com/googlenest/answer/9251212?hl=en Not sure about Ecobee but I assume it's similar. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Sep 3, 2021 |
# ¿ Sep 3, 2021 00:55 |
|
What are we looking at in the 2nd picture, are those rollers?
|
# ¿ Sep 6, 2021 05:01 |
|
On window chat, I have been unable to identify the manufacturer of mine and need to replace a couple with blown seals. I at least would want to reach out to the company and see if they have any program to help out before I commit to shelling out $250 per thermal unit for reglazing. No label or anything found anywhere on the window or frame, which is made out of wood. The place was built in the early 2000s. Any ideas on finding the manufacturer or am I out of luck? Plus I bet them helping a subsequent owner with blown seals is unlikely. No luck with this article: https://www.hunker.com/12425836/how-to-find-out-who-manufactured-the-windows-in-my-home
|
# ¿ Sep 7, 2021 01:11 |
|
What is that we're seeing beneath the previously existing brick underneath the door? I'm not a construction understanding person, so I don't know what's normally underneath a brick exterior before you hit things like studs and drywall.
|
# ¿ Sep 16, 2021 01:34 |
|
Sirotan posted:9 months after I spent weeks of my life scraping, patching, sanding, sanding, sanding, sanding, painting, texturing, and then patching some more because I wasn't satisfied, my ceiling looks like this again: Sorry man. Is that settling of the house or what? Can you apply paint with a toothpick or something to just make the crack less visible?
|
# ¿ Sep 27, 2021 15:19 |
|
I have a 2-string fan with a single wall power switch which I kinda like. For now I don't want to bother finding a way to connect it with a remote, so I set the fan to what I want and leave the light off when going to bed, and I have a Hue lamp that I turn on and off with Siri. Works well for me.
|
# ¿ Sep 27, 2021 16:51 |
|
meatpimp posted:That's terrible, but do your research before filing a claim with your home insurance. It sounds like it's a contractor problem, in that case, it's the contractor's insurance. Yes, you can file with your company, they'll pay, then subrogate with the contractor's company, but it will be a ding against you with regards to insurance. In Ohio, you get one freebie, then the second one impacts your rates. With something as loving annoying as that looks, I might go ahead and do the homeowner's claim and suffer the CLUE backlash / premium increase. I would be worried about filing with the contractor's insurance, having them drag it out for XYZ days, changing my mind and filing with homeowner's, then finding out in the interim I've blown past some maximum days since incident reporting rule and then I'm SOL. Other folks can correct me if I'm wrong though, I know goons are often rightfully anti-claim. Sorry that happened OP, hope you can get it repaired right.
|
# ¿ Oct 3, 2021 00:46 |
|
Man it is ridiculous that insurance companies are literally denying people Because Miami. If there is no other climate change red alert that exists in the universe, in our country it should be that insurance companies will not take your money to insure property there, or it is at least difficult to find one that will.
|
# ¿ Oct 4, 2021 15:11 |
|
Exsanguinated by the Jersey Air Force? Skeeters?
|
# ¿ Oct 10, 2021 04:37 |
|
Apropos of nothing, I recently bought a dumb-tier Roomba for my single level condo. It bumps into stuff so forcefully, it is quite jarring to be in another room and hear it working. *wham* *kerchunk* I also refuse to let it run unattended in my office/2nd bedroom, I'm going to leave that door shut while it's working. There is virtually no way to guarantee it's not going to grab onto a monitor, laptop, or table lamp power cord and completely destroy the item and my floor when it falls. It doesn't even need to grab/suck up the cord, even bumping into it and dragging it along would be enough to pull stuff off my desk. Its obstacle detection requires a fairly large force to stop and a cord dragging something wouldn't trigger it. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Oct 18, 2021 |
# ¿ Oct 18, 2021 17:46 |
|
I don’t understand a thermostatic mixing valve at all. What’s the benefit over just…. Mixing cold and hot water at the tub? My 50 gal gas tank runs out using the bath too. I solve it by running the tub filler at maybe 50% max volume. It takes a long time (like 20+ min) to fill the tub but it guarantees I have some more hot water for a shower or whatever once the tub is full.
|
# ¿ Oct 27, 2021 14:54 |
|
brugroffil posted:My washer just decided to fail. Prepare for a sea of Speed Queen zealots
|
# ¿ Oct 31, 2021 17:52 |
|
One tip I learned from the You Tubes is gently scrape a utility knife behind the cover plate before you tear it off, or if you feel any resistance. This will avoid a large chunk of paint and potentially drywall paper from coming out with the plate and expanding your project scope.
|
# ¿ Nov 3, 2021 16:27 |
|
w00tmonger posted:This might be more of a question for the home automation thread, but has anyone dealt with an automatic water shut off system? drat that's expensive, I know any avoided water damage can pay for itself, but lol at a pinhole leak in a toilet getting you back your $900 for the Moen Flo. Maybe it's a good thing though, I'm not sure.
|
# ¿ Nov 5, 2021 22:48 |
|
meatpimp posted:True, that's been a constant battle with my son until he left for college and now my 12 year old daughter. I always heard the bathroom fan should continue running for a while after a shower. Maybe the difference isn’t so stark that it actually causes issues though.
|
# ¿ Nov 6, 2021 16:45 |
|
Sous Videodrome posted:Good news! I got it working. Grats on the toasty feet
|
# ¿ Nov 13, 2021 05:48 |
|
Maybe I’m an idiot but what’s wrong with that window? Are you going to replace it with another of the same size? I’m still learning about what makes a good vs. garbage window.
|
# ¿ Dec 2, 2021 06:56 |
|
|
# ¿ May 7, 2024 13:24 |
|
Steve French posted:I bought a new fridge recently. Naturally, when that happened, the old fridge that came with the house (a garbo tier top-freezer kitchenaid) became my glorious garage fridge. I’m guessing you may be overthinking this. Fridges, like AC units, have minimum operating temps where the compressor/refrigerant will function properly. You could google the model number and see if you can find a manual with the temp listed. Refrigerant just won’t boil and do its thing correctly at a certain point IIRC.
|
# ¿ Dec 22, 2021 07:43 |