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nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

surf rock posted:

I have a pair of small water stains (one hand-sized and the other a third of that) on the kitchen ceiling and another (roughly two hands) on the guest bedroom closet ceiling; They're all at least three years old; they were present when I bought the house and haven't changed in that time.

Unfortunately, a new stain about the size of a throw pillow appeared in the master bedroom closet a couple of months ago. I had a roofer come out, inspect the whole thing, and make some repairs that came out to $700. They have a team that does interior repairs, and the estimator for that finally came out.

He looked at the four stains, said "none of these require any drywall replacement; we would just hit them with two coats of stain killer and two coats of paint," and then quoted me $850 for the job. They would be painting the whole kitchen ceiling, but that's a 10'x10' room, and the other two areas would just be the little closets. The ceiling is textured so that's annoying.

This is pretty clearly a "this job is too small to bother with, so I'm going to quote a ridiculous price so that we don't have to bother with it" quote, right?

Also... what's stain killer? I'd never heard of that before.

Stain killer/ Kilz

https://www.lowes.com/pd/KILZ-2-Int...wE&gclsrc=aw.ds

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nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Speaking of alarms, any recommendations for an alarm for a chest freezer in the basement to detect temperature drops? The ones I see on Amazon mostly say they’re too quiet to hear if the freezer is in the basement.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Another renovation question:

Our house has an unfinished basement and a long term goal would be to at least partially finish it. The furnace and oil tank are in the basement so probably wall that area off separately but make the rest into a potential living area.

There’s no ductwork or anything like that in the basement now (split ac on main level and central ac on upper level).

I guess my main question is there is humidity in the basement now-will finishing alleviate the humidity or will we run a humidifier there all the time still?

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Motronic posted:

What do you mean by finishing? Finishing it without any environmental controls/upgrades will not "fix" a humidity problem. One can absolutely have the correct HVAC to manage the humidity as part of finishing, but most people are too cheap for that and just throw in a dehumidifier.

Ideally we’d make a space for an office/bedroom. There’s no windows except for those small ones you see in basements so I doubt we could count it as a bedroom since there’s not two points of egress…I’d have to read up on state law for that.

But yeah, we’ll have some workout equipment there, some storage, the electrical panel/furnace in the basement, so I was hoping to section off a place with drywall/electricity/drop ceilings/flooring maybe for an office/bed for when guests come.

There’s a ton of “finished” basements in Connecticut where the entire thing is finished with carpet/flooring/walls/etc that they use for bonus rooms, etc.

The previous owner tried to start something but I’m not sure why because it’s ridiculously small (it might work for an office but I dunno about fitting anything besides a twin size bed in there). During the inspection, they noted that they usually try and recommend drywall starts 2’ above the floor so moisture doesn’t seep into it, and they think that’s what happened here. Once I move in I’ll take a closer look and if needed, just cut off the bottom 2 feet with a rotozip or something.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Meaty Ore posted:

I feel like we must have gotten lucky with our Samsung fridge; we've had it for about eight years now and have had absolutely no problems with it. On the other hand, it was a fairly basic model, so I guess maybe there's less stuff there that could fail?

drat, I was sad to hear about Samsung. They’ve got this one fridge that seemed right up our alley:

https://www.costco.com/samsung-29-cu.-ft.-bespoke-4-door-flex-smart-refrigerator-with-distinctive-color-combinations.product.100768308.html

We’re always looking for more refrigerator space for produce so we figured we could get this and just use our chest freezer for everything.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Not specifically home zone but I want a wall mount for my 65” tv. Anything to look out for or are they all the same?

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Is there anything difficult about choosing a type of carpet or installer? When I’ve rented, my landlord just went with the cheapest carpet at Home Depot or lowes, but my new house needs new carpet in three bedrooms and I’d like to not cheap out on it because I’d like it to last 10+ years.

Home Depot has some decent stuff (lifeproof) with a 15 year warranty but it’s $4 / square foot and I don’t know if that’s reasonable or not.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

So what are these metal doors near my furnace for? I can open them up and it appears to be a cutout through my foundation to something else…



Only thing I can think of is an ash deposit for the fireplace.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Redoing vinyl in kitchen-should I just put new over existing or rip out the old/in with the new? The installer said to rip out and replace subfloor would cost $1k.

Pretty sure the existing linoleum is from 1988.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Well I’m an idiot and made my first mistake as a homeowner- I assumed.

Went to mount my tv about 4” below where the previous owner had mounted his. I used a stud finder and verified that, but I must have drilled through a wire because the power in the living room doesn’t work and the breaker in the basement tripped for the living room.

I’ve got an electrician coming out tomorrow but I have no idea what to expect. He said his rate is $90/hour.

Best case is I guess he’ll have to knock some holes in the wall to see how much wiring I hosed up, and then replace at least that much. No clue what code would require to see if he can even just replace a few feet of wire or if he needs to replace the whole thing. Basically no clue what I’m up against.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

H110Hawk posted:

There is a UL listed hidden splice. It will take basically an hour and then you get to patch it and paint it. Or they can cut a box if they need to do anything more complicated. This is easy.

Nice! This is the one and only time I plan on drilling into the wall, so hopefully this doesn’t happen again. I think it was the lag bolts that did me in-I read that wires are supposed to be far back enough that you shouldn’t hit them with a nail or screw on normal occasions.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

brugroffil posted:

If you don't already have an outlet box behind the TV, this could be a good opportunity to add one

Good point. There’s one below the tv about 3-4’ but it’d be nice to have it hidden completely.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Welp, turns out I managed to drill directly through a wire that was connecting two outlet switches to each other. I saw no need for the two switches since my TV was hooked up there and I’ll never use the switch to turn my tv off, so he just disconnected those switches. It turns out behind the wall are the stairs so there was no easy access for his other option, so he was going to need to make two holes in the wall with a blank cover on one of them.

I bought one of those recessed outlets this morning and he installed that so now it looks much better. Live and learn I guess.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

I know very little about plumbing but the previous owner redid the downstairs half bath. To me this looks janky as poo poo, but maybe because I’ve never seen it before (flex pipe, using some kind of thread pvc instead of pvc cement).

Thoughts?



nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Tiny Timbs posted:

Oh my god what

This just needs an extender piece between the sink bottom and the trap and it’ll be a straight shot into the wall. They’re like $0.50 and can be cut to size

Again-not a plumber-but the sink drain is like 1” to the right of the wall pipe. Would your idea still work?

Thinking of just throwing this on a list to have a plumber fix, along with installing 1/4 turn valves on all the toilets and bibs instead of those loving needle valves. I tried looking up how to do it, but I have no idea if I have a threaded or soldered or compressed setup on any of my supply lines and I don’t want to spend a day trying to get one of them correct.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Anyone here have a heat pump water heater tank?

We live in Connecticut with an oil fired boiler which heats water on demand essentially. We got an efficiency test done and it’s running at 80% efficiency which is great since it’s very old but recently serviced. However the energy audit mentioned it as a possibility.

Running the numbers, it makes sense. Right now I’m burning about a gallon of oil per day using water in the summer. It was $5.30 a gallon last fill up but I know that’s high. Still, figure $4 a gallon and during the summer I’m paying $120 a month for hot water which seems ridiculous. I have to think a heat pump water heater would be more efficient, even if it had to convert to standard electric rates to keep up with extra demand or in the dead of winter.

We’ve got 2.5 bathrooms and a family of four. The only time we notice a decrease in hot water availability is doing laundry and taking a shower at the same time, though that may also be since we’re on a well.

What am I missing? Seems a 40 -50 gallon heat pump water heater would be a no brainer.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Yooper posted:

I do, I like it. We have a Rheem 50 gallon that has no issue keeping up with a family of 3. I'm not sure on exact monthly cost, but last month our electric bill for the whole house was $170, and that's at $0.22 / kwh. Subtract some AC time, dryer, stove, lighting, TV, well water pump, etc. The "Yellow Tag" said energy usage of ~$100 a year and I'd say that's probably a decent estimate.

The app it comes with sucks, I disabled the wifi connectivity as the whole thing felt flaky and I was afraid some stupid update would brick my water heater.

Just be aware it's taller than a standard hot water heater and the outlet location is different than a gas unit. It also has a condensate drain and you will get condensate.

One added bonus is we run our forced air unit in fan mode only and it circulates the water heater chilled-dehumidified air in my basement and keeps the main system from kicking on as much.

Interesting-thanks! To be honest I’m not completely sure how it all works/if it will work with my system. I’ve got a split ac unit on the first floor and a central ac unit in the attic for the second floor. I’m told they both have a heat pump and my boiler is in the basement.

I scheduled an estimate for my boiler about 2 months ago and they’re coming out next week. After doing some research, I have zero plans to replace the boiler but I figured I’d bring this up to see if it’s doable.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Any recommendations on best way to replace this chandelier? The top mounting bracket is about 14-15’ high on an angled popcorn ceiling. I’m not concerned about the wiring, just wondering how I would get the old one down and replaced with a new fixture.

My guess is the wiring isn’t done at the bottom of the chandelier where the lights are, but at the top of the ceiling instead. I’ve got a ladder but no good place to put it as an extension ladder and it’s not tall enough as a normal A-frame ladder. If I stand on the top level I could hook the chain and bring the base of the chandelier to me, but there’s no safe way to reach the top part on the ceiling. That weird space on top of the closet is a no-go as well. Even if it would bear my weight, it’s too far for me to reach the ceiling fixture.

I’m guessing I need an electrician with a tall ladder for this one, right?



nwin fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Jul 16, 2022

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Blowjob Overtime posted:

There were a handful of people itt (myself included) who got the Frigidaire Gallery series a couple months ago that is about 1/3rd the price of other comparable induction ranges per Consumer Reports:



Mine replaced a lovely resistance coil electric, so it is worlds of improvement, but it was specifically chosen in lieu of gas. Part of that was the aforementioned indoor air quality, part of it was due to existing infrastructure (would have needed to pipe the gas there). If yours is gas range and oven it may be the opposite for you needing to get 220V there.

You are right about there not being a quick visual indication from the actual "burners", but with the digital readout it's pretty easy to determine what temp they're all at pretty quickly. Completely understand the concern, as I asked my wife to mark our old stove dials with some high-vis paint (ok, nail polish) to help quickly read them when cooking. For induction specifically, digital would now be my first choice for exactly that reason.

You definitely won't be able to quick grill veggies on the burner, but doing them under the broiler in the oven has done the job for me on this and the previous electric stove.

Cookware you can test by putting a magnet on it. If the magnet sticks, it'll work on induction. Sounds like there are some pans that magnets "kind of" stick to and may or may not work, but all of ours were very clear yes or no when we tested them. Most likely candidates for not working are non-stick, as those are usually aluminum. Again, pros and cons on that part - I lost a pan I liked, but used it as an excuse to buy some new stuff. Cast iron and pretty much any All Clad-style stuff will work on it.

Yeah I’ve had this same stove for about a month and it works great. This house had a lovely electric range but alll my previous homes had gas which I loved.

Yeah-no visual indicator for the flame but it’s pretty easy to dial in with the digital controls. Samsung makes one that now has “visual flames” to help out if it’s a huge issue.

I wanted the GE profile because of its ease of use wrt the knobs (on the Frigidaire you have to tap the + and - keys for each burner, with the GE you can slide the virtual knobs which I liked), but it was backordered and almost 4 times the price. Very happy with what I have and holy poo poo does water boil faster than any gas stove I’ve ever come across. It’s almost frighteningly fast using the “P” setting on the burner.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Adding to fireplace chat. My home inspector did a very basic inspection and he didn’t video the chimney or anything like that.

I’d like to get it inspected to see if it has a liner and general use of it. I don’t think I’ll really use the thing, but it stinks like a campfire so I don’t think the PO even got it cleaned-they just brushed out the base.

What should I be asking for? A safety inspection with cleaning?

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Aw gently caress, when was asbestos outlawed because my house is full of popcorn ceiling (1988 build).

Edit: 1989…loving cool. I don’t recall this ever being brought up during the inspection.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

15 years for a water heater is pretty good. If you can swing it, I’d replace now instead of dealing with a rush request and water leaking everywhere. Not a huge deal for cleanup if it’s in your garage, but anywhere else is going to suck.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

actionjackson posted:

I called Pella to ask about my patio door handle, as it's a bit loose (but still totally functional). It's one with a multipoint lock. apparently i'd have to replace the whole set - both the interior and exterior handle, lever, faceplate, and lock. 680 GODDAMN DOLLARS. no thanks. the handle just has a bit of give allowing it to move towards and away from the door. maybe there's a DIY way to fix it.

Also cleaning question again, deep cleaning a stainless steel sink. mine definitely needs it, it doesn't have any of the shine it had originally. I tried this

https://www.thespruce.com/how-to-clean-a-stainless-steel-sink-5093605

at least the baking soda and vinegar steps. seemed to work somewhat well, but not totally. maybe just repeat several times? any other ideas?

Barkeepers friend.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Do you guys think this is mold on some wood in my basement? If so, should I be concerned?

The PO who owned for two years admitted he didn’t keep up with running the dehumidifier as needed because he’d forget to empty the bucket for days at a time. I’ve resolved that with a pump so it can continuously run without stopping, though it’s currently off since temps are getting cold.



nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

The first pic is just dirt or maybe old mildew from when the lumber was outside at some point. You can see the marks where there were sticks or something that aren't dirty. The second one could be mold but looks more like bluestain or dirt or something to me.

Thanks for all the responses. I’ll cross that off my list.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

tangy yet delightful posted:

I feel like I've seen posting about ordering window blinds online but of course I didn't save the links. Can ya'll post up where you've ordered from before and had good or bad experiences? Need to outfit a house and I'm assuming homedepot isn't the best option for doing so.

Selectblinds.com

Great experience and easy to install.

Never pay full price. They routinely have 35-50% sales.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Can anyone recommend a good snake to keep at home for random drain issues?

The PO of our house had long flowing black hair and we found it all over the place, to include the master bathroom sink drain. I used a cheap plastic zip from Home Depot on it and :barf: so figured maybe I should get something else and snake more gunk out when I get a chance. We’re on septic and have put draino down drains, but we’ve still got a few slow drains.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

PainterOfCrap and other knowledgeable people: would there be any use in making a post on home insurance-what to get/deductible amounts/etc?

When I bought my house, I kind of just went through it blindly with a $2k deductible and I don’t know enough of the ins and outs of it to make sure I didn’t miss anything I definitely need coverage for. I just went with Geico’s recommendations since they are whom I use for car insurance.

I’m not even sure what kind of questions I’d need to answer to give you enough info to help. I’m not in a flood/hurricane/tornado zone (15 miles inland of the Connecticut coast), but that’s all I think would be beneficial to provide at this point.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

PainterofCrap posted:

The insurance comes in four parts:
Coverage A - the house
Coverage B- other structures that are not for habitation (garage, shed, and on some policies: your in-ground pool)
Coverage C: contents
Coverage D - Loss of Use. This is a reimburseable-only coverage (you have to spend the money first) for extraordinary expenses that you incur when your house cannot be lived in. Doesn't have to be structurally compromised: Having no power, water or heat are all grounds. Fear of mold is grounds. Most people want to stay in their home, so when they say that they can't, that's pretty much grounds

Coverage A is what it costs to rebuild the entire house and includes the basement and foundation, but not the land (unless you are in California & there's an earthquake). It is NOT the market value. Most policies write this as replacement cost value (RCV), not actual cash value (ACV) (more on that later)

B: same for however many structures you have on the property. Usually 10% of coverage A. You can elect to increase this if you rebuild or modify these appurtenant structures, or add more to your property. Also RCV.

C: best defined as your belongings, things that you would take with you when you move. Includes plugged-in appliances not permanently installed (i.e your refrigerator, but not your dishwasher). You can also increase this limit. Make sure you read the limits for certain items, such as cash, jewelry, firearms, and collectibles. As Motronic said you may want to consider scheduling Grandma's 16-carat diamond ring, or that Luger you great-uncle brought back from Sicily.

D: Keep any and all receipts for meals and lodging if you have to leave your home. This coverage will reimburse it. Many carriers also have accounts with companies that will locate a hotel or long-term housing and bill the insurer directly so you don't have to pay. Korman Suites and similar providers are popular with us since they have their own kitchens. Keep in mind the 'extraordinary' definition: these are expenses above & beyond what you would normally incur. So, If you go out to eat twice a week normally, we'll reimburse you for the other five days of meals. If you buy groceries & cook, you'd be doing that anyway so there's no incurred expense we'd pay there.

Normally this limit is the same as coverage A, although some high end policies don't have a dollar limit, they just say, "reasonable." Some have limits on how long you can stay out of the house (1-year); some are unlimited. Only once in 35-years have I come close to exhausting a limit. Once I paid for a family of four to go on a 2-week cruise because it was cheaper than local accommodations (the Dad Vail Regatta was in Philadelphia and room rates were outrageous when anything could be found). If you have an extraordinarily large family, or one with serious mobility issues, you may want to look into increasing this limit.

Sub-Coverages to watch:

Hidden mold or rot. This nifty coverage, usually limited to $5000 or $10K, will cover the cost of mold remediation should mold arise out of a covered loss (mold has been excluded for years, so this gives back some limited coverage). See if it includes hidden rot: that way, if, say, your toilet floods the house, and during the course of repair find hidden rot in the subfloor or framing under the toilet, this will pay (up to the limit) to repair that rot damage, which (like mold) is normally excluded. Not too many companies offer it, so ask if it's available. Again it's a cheap add, so get it if you can.

Code upgrade. Most policies will write this in to Coverage A as an additional coverage that is 10% of coverage A. If you are buying a house built since 1990, this limit is probably sufficient. If you are in a house built before WWII, it probably is not. Many local governments have codes about minor things like rubble & mortar foundations, foundations with no footings; asbestos; lead piping (you'd be surprised); knob & tube wiring, Federal Pacific Stab-Lok panels...amazeballs PO "There, I Did It!"s, and the kind of substandard building practices this thread revels in.

Unfortunately when you're in the middle of rebuilding you Mayfair rowhome after some tuner drove his Miata through your foundation wall into your basement, and the Philadelphia L&I folks are marvelling at the build techniques of their grandfathers and writing pages of required changes, that money will disappear right quick, and no, you can't use leftover Coverage A money for it. Sorry.

So consider bumping up your code upgrade limit if you can

Service Line Coverage and Mechanical Breakdown coverage: Not everyone offers either or both of these but ask if they do because you want these. They're cheap and will save your rear end. The former covers failures of soil lines, water mains, underground electrical runs etc. outside the home that cause covered losses. It'll cover excavation and repair or replacement of the run, usually up to $10K.

The latter covers appliances or mechanicals that fail & cause a loss (gas furnace fire: boiler puffback; icemaker or dishwasher flooding). These are handled through an agreement with Hartford Steam Boiler, who will determine if a loss is covered or not, and how much. They send me a report, I pay you, and at the end of the year, HSB reimburses us some percentage.

ACV/RCV: When you have a loss that damages 15-year-old wallpaper, or five-year-old engineered wood floor, or a room painted two years ago, or your kid's room with crayon all over the walls, or hammerstrikes to the walls or trim (or Fido has been chewing up the baseboard...really, puppers, WTF?). then the value or replacing re-papering, re-painting is diminished by age, and/or wear and tear, so we would pay what it costs to restore it and subtract for the wear. That's ACV (If you ever have a liability claim - go after someone else's policy for damage done to your property - that's all they'll ever pay: ACV).

RCV means that we agree to pay the reasonable cost to restore your property (less your deductible). The catch, so to speak, is that we'll pay ACV up front, and, once the repairs are completed, we'll pay the depreciation ("recoverable depreciation") to you once you show: a) that the repairs are completed, and b) that you actually spent all of the money, including the deductible, to do so. If it costs you less than RCV, we'll pay the difference between the ACV & what it actually costs you.

So you want RCV coverage on contents. The only way to get ACV on coverage A and B is through certain high-risk writers (like Scottsdale or Philadelphia Contributionship) or if you find a carrier that still writes an HO-1 or HO-2 or a Standard Fire Policy (SFP-1) (named-peril policies; the SFP-1 covers fire & that about it,was probably written by Ben Franklin)

Note: most companies will limit their depreciation to 50% no matter how hosed-up something is. Of course, there are exceptions coughcough Allstate, Homesite cough

A little bit on perils:

named-peril policies only cover the perils that they write in the policy.
Coverage c (contents coverage) is usually named-peril only (although, as usual there are exceptions but usually only in policies written for large risks (i.e. the wealthy) or scheduled items (which are usually broader). This leads to situations where the damage to the house or garage is covered, but the contents are not (typically exterior finish or roof leaks not caused by wind) which is fun to explain to people along with why we're covering the water damage from a roof leak but not the roof repair.

All-Risk (bad name. Really should be "Open Perils"). Essentially, the policy says it'll cover everything, then has a long list of exclusions. But then you get to Additional Coverages, where they'll limit or take away some coverages, and dollar-limit what they'll pay on others.

Typically you're getting an HO-3, or a higher-end version of the HO-3 (ours is called an "HO-3000") and these policies cover A and B as open-peril, and C as named-peril. D kicks in on any covered ,oss.

and finally: the deductible. Get the highest deductible you can afford. The lower you go, the higher your premium will climb.

SO

tl;dr:

Make sure you have sufficient limits to cover your stuff
Get the highest deductible you can afford
Get RCV for contents
See if hidden mold/rot endorsement is offered
See if Service Line and/or Mechanical Breakdown coverage is available

This is awesome-thank you!

My in-laws recommended shopping around for homeowners insurance every 2 years to make sure you’re getting the best rate. That sounds pretty intense to me.

I plan on calling GEICO to ask some of these questions but I’m not sure if it’s necessary to shop around every 2 years… I definitely want to know if increasing my deductible is worth it or not as well as ensuring I have proper riders for my guns/jewelry and make sure it’s listed as RCV.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Paging painterofcrap to answer eason’s roof question.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Question on a big oak tree in my front yard.

I took some pictures but I’m concerned how it’s leaning. I’d guess it’s got a 10-15 degree lean on it. I’m not worried about it hitting the house, but if it falls in the direction of the way it’s leaning, my leech field and septic system is probably going to be underneath it.

I’m not sure if that could cause damage or not, hence the question. We had a tree company out to cut some trees down and he said this one wasn’t a concern, but did say if it were to fall, the septic could be an issue.

He looked at it in the summer but now that the leaves are gone, it looks way worse to my untrained eye. At the minimum it needs trimmed, but if it’s a hazard I’d rather just pay the whole thing now and be done with it.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Phil Moscowitz posted:

Sometimes oak trees list. Can you get an arborist out to take a look? Not just a tree trimmer?

Do you see any roots pushing their way up to the surface that might indicate the entire tree and its root system are shifting?

I can see some roots under the grass pushing up, but it’s been that way since I moved here in June…so no clue if it’s recent or not.

I’ll call an arborist up-thanks!

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

nwin posted:

Question on a big oak tree in my front yard.

I took some pictures but I’m concerned how it’s leaning. I’d guess it’s got a 10-15 degree lean on it. I’m not worried about it hitting the house, but if it falls in the direction of the way it’s leaning, my leech field and septic system is probably going to be underneath it.

I’m not sure if that could cause damage or not, hence the question. We had a tree company out to cut some trees down and he said this one wasn’t a concern, but did say if it were to fall, the septic could be an issue.

He looked at it in the summer but now that the leaves are gone, it looks way worse to my untrained eye. At the minimum it needs trimmed, but if it’s a hazard I’d rather just pay the whole thing now and be done with it.



So we had an arborist come out today. The tree is fine and healthy, just old and in need of a trim.

Two options he gave us:

1) trim the deadwood for $750.
2) take the tree down to the stump and remove all the wood for $2400.

He said if we trim it, well have to do it again in a few years as the tree will find new branches to shed. If we wanted to cut it down, we’d obviously lose the shade it provides and it’s a huge oak, but it’s at the bottom of our driveway and it only shades the grass and not the house.

Even with the existing lean, he didn’t seem concerned or notice any telltales about it falling over any time soon.

Part of me is leaning towards just cutting it to the stump and being done with it, maybe planting a new tree near it after I can get the stump removed. It sheds a ton of branches that are a pain in the rear end and while trimming it would alleviate that, this oak has a million leaves that need picked up in the fall. Seems like a recurring cost of $750 every 5 years or just pay $2500 and be done with it for a while and not worry about the tree ever falling.

What do you think?

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Alright, you’ve all convinced me after speaking more with the arborist-the big white oak stays. I’m getting both the big trees out front trimmed and he’s going to clean up a few others.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

We’ve painted a bunch of our trim white but now we’re left with brown solid doors throughout the house. They’re good wood and study so I don’t want to replace them but we’re thinking we’ll paint those white too.

Any thoughts on those Wagner airless sprayers going for $150-200 at Home Depot? Seems like an easier way to take the doors off and quickly paint them but I’ve never used one.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

StormDrain posted:

When you say solid I assume you mean not hollow, what does the door look like otherwise? Smooth, six panel, two panel etc?

I'm against spraying unless you're spraying down a whole house. Over spray you gotta mask for and more cleanup of the tool. For a door you should be doing multiple coats and painting all six sides if it's new, but not so important if they're already sealed. So at a minimum you're investing a lot of time to let everything dry so you can flip it, so it doesn't get stuck to the floor or walls or masking or drop cloths.

With all the setup I'd rather just use a mini roller and paint brush.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Mustache Ride posted:

I was looking for a pic but I can't find one, but when spraying doors I've screwed a big piece of plywood or 2 2x6s to the bottom, stood them up on a tarp on the driveway and had at it. You can walk around the door easily enough and get all sides.

It's hard to tell if that's a solid core door, but if it is and you like the style, it may be worth sanding and doing a coat of kilz and 2 coats of white that matches the trim.

Thanks for the tip. It is a solid core door. There’s so many loving doors in this house that well probably do exactly that. 11 of them I think.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

We had a few oaks taken down that were a safety hazard to the house (not the other trees I posted earlier which are just getting trimmed). We had the stumps ground down but would ultimately like to plant another tree.

Could we plant a tree near or on where the stump was ground, or would that be a bad idea? I’m guessing it wouldn’t work since the stump isn’t completely removed and there’s still a lot of roots in the area.

Edit : google to the rescue. It’s not a good idea.

nwin fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Feb 25, 2023

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

The wood by my fireplace is starting to look uneven, I’m guessing from the house settling.

It’s easily seen in the picture. There is a nail where the head was raised about 1/8” and I was able to hammer that back in.

Any ideas how I could get the wood fixed? It’s not in a super inconvenient location and the only people who would go there are my kids who would stub their toes.

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nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Ack- didn’t you just remodel that kitchen?

Was it compression fitting or shark bite?

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