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ROJO posted:Are there prefab sheds people like? I could just build a shed, but if the price was right, I would be willing to pay someone to have done most of the hard work and just put some footings in myself. Where you at? There are a number of shed companies in Pennsylvania.
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Mar 3, 2024 02:06
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nwin posted:Weber. I have never bought a Weber. I have had four of them, though, that I have trash-picked; all Genesis models. Every one of them was in good nick, needing new grills and ‘flavorizer’ (heat distribution) bars and a very good cleaning - which is very messy, and probably why the more privileged folks trashed them. I fixed them up and gave them to friends and family. All of the parts for them are available. I have spent up to $300 for parts, including new knobs, wheels, and ignitor sets. Since a new 3-burner Genesis is upwards of $1200, and the refreshing lasts 10-15 years, I have had no desire to replace them with something new. Plus, the heat control is phenomenal. I trash-picked my current grill, which has a very effective side burner, from curbside last summer. It rrplaced the first one I found, back in 1998; that unit soldiers on at a friend's house. Make sure you get a cover; it practically eliminates wear. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Mar 3, 2024 |
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Mar 3, 2024 20:40
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VelociBacon posted:Any recommendations for third party covers? Guess I could make one but yeah. I have a Weber two burner that I also am very pleased with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GFU9VZI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I know it's Amazon, but these King Kong covers are heavy af - the way Weber covers used to be. I get about 4-years out of them, constantly out in the weather & sun. Motronic posted:Webers are quality without being fancy, and yes.....you do pay for it. But it's worthwhile. Trash picking them is a pro move. One of the benefits of having a pickup truck is hucking one in the back the moment you see one. They're very distinctive-looking, and I'm amazed at how many I've found. At one point I had three, in various states of refresh. My sister's former in-laws had a house on Long Beach Island (NJ) in Beach Haven; my niece noted that, starting a couple weeks before Labor Day and continuing towards Thanksgiving, folks are curbing their grills. They buy a new one before the next summer season, some every year. I am tempted to head down there this year and see what's out. First thing is to check & see when the island towns schedule their heavy trash /appliance pickuop
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Mar 4, 2024 04:52
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I'd hit up Stone Harbor or Avalon but would probably get arrested for loitering as a dirty hoi-polloi or some such. It is shocking, and more than a little sad that folks can't be bothered to spend the $3 & get filthy dirty for an hour or two.
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Mar 4, 2024 05:10
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Unless you or your housemates have immuno-compromised pulmonary systems, I think mold remediation is a scam. Doubly so, if the attic area is not part of the living space of the home. It sounds from the one report as if the soffit vents are covered with insulation. That would absolutely result in elevated humidity in the attic space; clearing the soffits and allowing free exchange with the outside air would resolve the humidity issue and arrest any further mold growth. I wouldn't be concerned about moss on the shingles, especially in the patterns that you have there, You can have it removed, but it will come back. The roof of my mother's house had far heavier moss growth on the rear slope for forty years.
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Mar 6, 2024 17:36
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I would go with gas if you are certain that your current rig is actually nearing the end of its service life. If money's the thing, it might be cost-effective to limp along another year and save for gas in '25 Price out the removal of the old oil tank and oil. It ain't cheap, but it least it's above-ground & not in your basement (we had to cut my Mom's abandoned tank apart to get it out, which involved draining the muck and spraying it with water while cutting it apart with an angle grinder). Gas companies may provide you a tank up front, but find out who owns it, & what they charge to 'rent' it... Probably cheaper in the long run to buy your own. There shouldn't be any issues with the piping with switching out the boiler beyond adapting pipes to line up connections that may be in slightly different locations.
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Mar 7, 2024 04:46
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Y'all stop posting about posters please and continue posting about bad ideas. I picture looking up at a stripped attic, with exposed floor framing (rafter ties) and rafters as not a good look. Sure, you can finish the rafter/roof framing, but you have to install W-pan and soffit - to - ridge ventilation for moisture control, then insulate over that, then drywall over that. You're still left with a ton of ugly AF ceiling/(former) floor joists to dress up in some way, and 16" OC isn't going to promote the light, airy look that is a desired characteristic of a cathedral ceiling. You'd probably want to remove most of them while still preserving the structural integrity of the roof. On the other hand, that may be the look the OP is going for. Doesn't consider what mechanicals may be running through the floor space. It can be done if one is really determined, though. mutata posted:Yeah, agreed. The poo poo I've seen in almost 40-years as an insurance adjuster has inured me to almost anything except what is patently unsafe/dangerous.
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Mar 9, 2024 17:47
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Patronize your local hardware store whenever possible. GlyphGryph posted:Is a knife a good enough tool to cut some squares into the drywall? Steak knife will work. Use your cheapest, most hosed-up one, though.
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Mar 11, 2024 04:03
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Not Wolverine posted:I went to an open house yesterday, it was built in 1999. Does a sour smell in a basement always mean mold? If you're describing an odor like day-old+ cat piss: it might be cat piss, but it's probably carpet & pad that's been wet for at least a couple days. When I inspect a water damage loss and I smell that, I'm writing to replace the carpet & pad - although if there's nothing else wrong/stained on the carpet, it can be pulled, the padding replaced after the floor is dried, the carpet re-laid & shampooed with a little mildewcide or bacteriacide in it, and it'll probably be fine.
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Mar 11, 2024 22:04
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Well, you sure as poo poo picked up taping like a pro in a hurry. Sweet!
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Mar 14, 2024 04:39
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I would try it in an inconspicuous area first, and see how it goes. You will probably smear mortar onto the face of the bricks. If/when that happens: wait about a half-hour, get a bucket of water and a wire brush, and scrub the brickfaces clean. I wound up re-pointing some of my older work by hand, wearing rubber gloves - to get the control I needed to bevel the joints. This is the hack way; you should use a grout spoon. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Mar 19, 2024 |
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Mar 19, 2024 20:47
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HootTheOwl posted:Every toilet in my house was grouted to the floor and all were leaking but I couldn't tell because, again, they were grouted to the floor. To be fair: the vast majority of closet-flange leaks (from the wax ring) do not show in the bathroom, around the toilet, but on the ceiling/wall of the room(s) below. So even if they hadn't grouted, there may not have been anything to see. Some installers caulk around the front. So long as they leave the back open, it should be enough air exchange. Full Disclosure: I do not put anything around that seam.
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Mar 20, 2024 01:07
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The Fifty Shades Of Grey curated collection of first editions
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Mar 28, 2024 02:23
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In 2012, we bought a Samsung French-door with the icemaker in the freezer. Had two issues (left bottom door bolt backing out affecting the freezer-door's ability to close completely, and a vent fan duct defect). Once I repaired those, it's been fine for the past 12-years. I think I may be an outlier, though.
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Apr 5, 2024 05:03
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Warbird posted:I just had something super strange happen and I'm not sure what to make of it. I was just sitting here in my nook piddling around on the PC and we lost power, but only apparently for this power circuit. The rest of the house retained power and this room got it back as well after a few seconds. I wasn't doing anything interesting at the time so I don't think it was a power draw issue; I've never seen something like this before. If you are able, cut the power to your breaker panel, remove the cover, and check the affected breaker. The lug may not be as tight as it should be. I had intermittent blinking of the light next to my chair for years, and thought it was a bad/loose bug (the crimp connectors on each leg of your power feed). The electric company verified that they were good 'n tight. A few years later, I had to modernize my panel, and during the swap-out the wires (yes, some of them were doubled up - one of the reasons for the upgrade) literally fell out of that breaker when I was removing it. The ends were pretty blued by arcing, too. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Apr 11, 2024 |
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Apr 11, 2024 19:38
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That was my thinking. The worst thing is the guano; if there's enough of it, you can smell it in the rooms below. It's not the worst odor - sorta...earthy - I don't mind it, but I'm a weirdo (we used to rent this cabin on Lake Bomaseen in Vermont. It always had this smell. I didn't find out until years later from my parents that the sealed-off attic space was bat-infested. Just put up a bat house in my yard, in fact. Anything to cut down the mosquito population... VVV I live in a swamp near the Delaware River. It would take a monthly DDT fogging of essentially my entire town to see peace. Or five of those $1200 CO/CO2 emitters like the PGA & Disney uses VVV PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Apr 14, 2024 |
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Apr 14, 2024 01:19
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Looks good. I’d top it with two layers of 3/4” plywood. You’ll get a number of great suggestions here for the walls. I used the heaviest-grade pegboard.
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Apr 22, 2024 01:16
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The section below the drip edge & in to the gutter is to prevent splash-back getting behind the gutter & running down the exterior wall. Not sure why it's set-up that way; typically, there’s a wood fascia there, with aluminum wrap around it, and the gutter is installed tight against it (the fascia usually runs behind the gutter, not into it) under the drip edge. But it seems to be working so I wouldn’t worry about correcting it until you have to replace the gutters.
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Apr 22, 2024 16:51
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incogneato posted:I'd like to hire someone to make the window in our toddler's room larger. The house was built in the 70s and the windows in the bedroom are currently 4' off the floor. Our main goal is lowering the bottom of that significantly (i.e. make the window taller), both to let in more light and to allow her to see out into our forested backyard. Widening the window is not really important to us, plus I'm guessing that it'd increase the cost by quite a bit. The current window is roughly 3' x 4.5'. From a structural standpoint: nothing could be easier. The opening is reinforced at the top, so there is no load on the opening. You could make it a doorway, so long as you don’t want to widen it. Everything else is aesthetic; the most expensive part is cutting back the exterior finish to accommodate the opening, and installing the proper transition between the opening & the exterior weather covering. Inside, you’ll need new trim at the left & right; if you can get them removed without damaging them, you csn re-use the sill & stool pieces.
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Apr 23, 2024 02:00
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Wondering why they stopped at 150. We have wells here in southern New Jersey over 400'.
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Apr 23, 2024 03:34
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Motronic posted:A cut sheet is the document from the insert or gas log which is incopoprated-by-reference into code as "install per manufacturer's instructions". Don't assume it was built to code, and even if it was you still need to know what code says because you are asking about modifying it. Lol this reminds me of when the code guys came around to do a surprise ‘final inspection’ of my garage -two years later - how they suddenly wanted a sheet for my woodstove. It was an Atlanta Stove Works unit from around 1969, it was given to me; I found that the company had gone out of business. I couldn’t find poo poo on it for documentation. I found a manual online for a similar model. I photoshopped in images of my stove & the installation stand-off measurements & sent it. The township needed it to cover their asses in case I set the place on fire. I was unconcerned because the back wall behind it was (from studs out): 5/8 fire-rated plywood Two layers of 5/8” drywall One layer of 5/8” wonder board 3/8” terra-cotta 6” tile PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Apr 26, 2024 |
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Apr 25, 2024 23:43
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It's a hell of a lot easier to replace an existing door slab that operates properly, but it still requires extreme attention to detail (to site the hinges & the latching assembly) and a fair bit of skill (get a good, sharp set of wood chisels; needed for the hinge recesses as well as the latch bolt plate). It is not a forgiving operation. Get it wrong, you're probably buying another slab.
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May 1, 2024 05:35
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Fit on old wooden doors like that can be a real pain in the rear end, because you have to watch like a hawk if you plane or trim at the height of summer when it's sticking, because a bit too much, and yowza, you have a humungous gap come New Years.
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May 2, 2024 03:20
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Those walls are getting ripped apart if you go with pocket doors. They need a pocket, which means the studs all have to come out and be turned 90-degrees, and there have to be two rows of them to make it. So the wall will be nearly twice as thick as it is now. Moving the wiring will be the least of your concerns.
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May 3, 2024 03:54
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Uh Yeah. You have to make a pocket. Without a wood stretcher, it gets complicated fast.
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May 3, 2024 05:11
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:For the record, using caustic chemicals to clear your drains is pretty rough on the pipes. It's not a "never use them" kind of thing, but if you find yourself using them at all regularly, you may find yourself on the hook for an expensive sewer repair sooner rather than later. A $5 disposable drain snake will usually do the job better, and while it smells terrible, the smell is merely offensive instead of actively harmful. Yo, just showered after reading
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May 5, 2024 01:28
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SnoPuppy posted:Roofing/"scope creep" question.... Unless you / SO have a strong aversion to the aesthetic, I would wrap the existing soffit in aluminum. Mine was wrapped probably around 1985, and possibly earlier than that. Not a day's trouble.
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May 7, 2024 00:42
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Invalid Validation posted:RV pumps run off 12v batteries for a long time. You’d probably be fine with something like that hooked up to a solar panel. Lifting groundwater a minimum of six feet, a minimum of five gallons at a time, fast and frequently enough to stay ahead of the groundwater, requires an order of magnitude more power than an RV clean-or gray water pump servicing the small lines and volumes of an RV. A healthy battery backup gives you a day to come up with another solution until the power is restored.
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May 9, 2024 03:04
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100 HOGS AGREE posted:I'm fixing up the ceiling in my bathroom and I'm also planning on replacing the lovely, weaksauce ventilation fan that's in there with a much more powerful unit... Make sure you have a 4" or larger duct, and that it is unobstructed. Three inches will thwart a more powerful fan
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May 17, 2024 01:13
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I used untreated cedar for corner trim on my garage. I installed it 20-years ago, and wherever it's sun-exposed, it's silver-grey. I could probably make it reddish-brown again with the pressure washer, but it's likely to raise the grain. The only issues I've had is the (cedar) deck screws backing out ere & there, and fuckin' tree rodents chewing on the left-rear outside corner for some ungodly reason. 2004:  2019:  Yes, the 'tearing' is coming off of screws made for cedar. They don't last forever.
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May 17, 2024 02:28
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That is waaaaay more inviting. Good design and execution by you & yours!
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May 22, 2024 17:25
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Vim Fuego posted:One joist bay over to the left and like 1.5 inches into the double uh 2x12? beam that's behind it in that shot. Positioning it left to right is easy. Longer pipe, maybe change the elbow angle a bit. Getting it running inside the wall seems hard. Like I said coming through the wall from below involves a hole in the beam. Coming up straight through the floor then turning and entering the wall is possible because there's about 5 inches of clearance under the oven. I have a really dumb question: Isn't there a recess in the back of the stove - usually the bottom half - that's deep enough to let you slide the stove over it?
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May 23, 2024 15:40
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chutwig posted:Fishing for some Motronic southeastern PA wisdom here. I would first get a plumber out to use dye packs to locate the source. What she may have is an old & abandoned floor drain that is shunting in groundwater. It's been a fairly wet spring, so the ground is pretty saturated as it is. Its a couple of feet below grade, so the grass, etc. on the surface may be dry & people are watering & adding to the groundwater issue. Once it's located, she may have to contact the Philadelphia Water Department to sort out what pipes are running where, if the plumber can't or there's some old funktified poo poo no one knows about.
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May 27, 2024 02:34
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