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kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

wormil posted:

I am about to remodel the bathroom off our family room. This part of the house has a slab foundation. I will gut the bathroom, insulate, replace all the pipes, then put it back together. No problem. Looking for advice on the putting it back together part. The back wall is bumped out for some reason and I'm trying to decide what to do with it. The current sink cabinet was built in place and I hate it, I've always hated it. I want something modern, clean and simple but I also need to store towels and various crap used by a family of four. I do not want another weird shaped cabinet but I am open to suggestions.

TLDR: I need to design around this weird wall shape in a bathroom.


Floor plan. Blue lines are approximate locations of current plumbing.



Pic



Is that an electrical panel in your bathroom? That's... not allowed anymore. It hasn't been allowed for some time. You might want to talk to your local code authority. They may make you move the panel if you do a remodel.

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kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

wormil posted:

Oh, I'll check on that. Edit; that became code in 1993, this bathroom predates that by decades.

How much work are you doing in this bathroom? Depending on the extent of your renovation, your city/county may make you move that panel. You would need to ask them.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Zhentar posted:

Hot water lines with no insulation in direct contact with concrete? Definitely would not be my first choice.

Isn't that exactly what radiant floor heating is?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

wooger posted:

I thought water based radiant is usually pipes running in slots in special foam blocks, over the sub-floor, with a radiant barrier on the bottom to prevent the heat leaking down.

That's one option for radiant heating with water. Another is to run the pipes on a floor, then pour concrete over them. It's usually used for radiant heating on a slab/basement, because then you don't have to worry about the extra weight or the concrete leaking to the floor below while pouring.

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Apr 20, 2016

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Cithen posted:

I just moved to the country from the city, so I'm not used to having weaponized means of varmint population control.

How much will the propane option hurt my lawn?

This much.

https://youtu.be/xDEira01c0Q

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Vulture Culture posted:

Any tips for locating a drywell on my property? My town doesn't require it to be on the survey so no one has any real idea where it is. My original plan was to grab a 4' Bully soil probe and follow the greywater line from where it exits the garage, but I'm not sure that jamming a metal-tipped thing at a PVC pipe is necessarily the best idea.

Got a pipe snake? You could stick it down a knockout until you hit the end, then count off the feet.

And you don't jam that hard.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Motronic posted:

Local electrical supply would be my first choice, but there are nice (Levitton, etc) contractor packs available at the big box stores. There are also TERRIBLE quality contractors packs there as well, so beware.

Seconding your local electrical supplier. Big box stores usually have 10 packs though. Keep in mind all of the outlet restrictions you'll have, like TR outlets everywhere, GFCIs where necessary, WR outside, etc.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

devmd01 posted:

Lol my neighbor picked a tulip polar off the town tree sale list as one of the trees I’m buying him. Not my yard, not my problem!

I like tulip poplars :(

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

grover's been grilling again.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Try a damp rag and a clothes iron.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

devmd01 posted:

Now we’re getting somewhere with our 14’x18’ screened in addition/patio rebuild.



Yes the exhaust vents are being moved, I’d rather not have an icicle feature in the winter.

Aww. Just leave your furnace exhaust there. You can call it your sleeping room!

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

IOwnCalculus posted:

Merry Cardsmas!

It's a beaut, Clark.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

tangy yet delightful posted:

Is there a good brand/model of microwave these days like how y'all sing praises for Bosch dishwashers? Just had my barely over a year old GE countertop microwave poo poo the bed.

I bet it's the main fuse inside.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

tangy yet delightful posted:

Let me go more in depth on how the microwave failed. I put my coffee mug in it for a quick hit start button > get 30 seconds of heating up coffee. But the MW stopped after maybe 20 seconds. I tried it again and after only a few seconds it stopped again. Now it just doesn't turn on at all. I've tried different plugs and checked the breaker panel, nothing is tripped.

Could this be a fuse or something else that's an easy fix? I have read that microwaves have capacitors requiring that one knows what to do so you don't discharge a capacitor into your body for not-so-fun times.

GE Model JES1145SH1SS

My GE microwave likes to act up sometimes. It's always the main fuse: either the fuse is corroded or the clips the fuse fits in are loose. Yes, microwaves do have big scary parts inside (look up fractal burning). That's why you need security bits to get inside them. In my experience, the main fuse is up near where the cord comes in, far away from the dangerous bits. If you know what you're doing, you'll be safe.

For what it's worth, my GE is a piece of poo poo and I need to adjust that fuse every year or so. Also, with such intermittent power issues, the clock only works for a week or so before it blanks out.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
No continuity for a NC switch = no bueno. I'd stick with the cheap one since you were already set to throw the old one away.

edit: Well, a "switch" in that it'll ever only flip once, then it's open forever, such is thermal fuses.

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 01:14 on Jan 17, 2024

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

blindjoe posted:

I also had a microwave from the 80s's with a dial, it was also indestructible.

I don't know if it's survivorship bias, but if you can find an old microwave, keep it and cherish it.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

EVEN HIGHER

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

the tingler posted:

Not sure if this is the best thread to ask, but I need to buy a sitting mower for a 2+ acre yard. As a transplant from southern California, I have no experience in lawn mowers. Any advice on getting something that will be good, low maintenance, and long lasting?

Electric riding mowers aren't there yet, especially for 2+ acres, plus their prices are ridiculous. If you have lots of trees, you may want to get a zero turn radius mower.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Is there a good source for decent quality lamp parts like sockets, shade harps etc?

https://www.grandbrass.com

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Motronic posted:

Now that is one pro click. Saving that for the next relevant random applicable project.

Oh yeah. Grand Brass is the best site I know of for fixing light fixtures no matter how old they are.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Motronic posted:

Humidifier, not dehumidifier. If you live somewhere with a winter these things are just magical.

Can confirm, humidifiers really make the difference. No need for lotion for your dry skin, no static shocks zapping you after crossing the carpet...

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Sirotan posted:

If you're truly #blessed your house will just come with a drywall saw, sealed inside the attic, next to an abandoned section of knee wall built for no discernable reason



This almost happened to me yesterday. I was doing work up in the attic and came down with my linesman's pliers. I went back up and sure enough, it was half buried in insulation. This is why you count tools before, after AND during your repairs.

That was also how I found a screwdriver 10 years ago.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

GlyphGryph posted:

Its probably super expensive to get plumbing run to a new room, huh?

Homicidal tendencies aside, it depends on how much digging and cutting concrete will need to be done.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Refinishing is much cheaper than replacing. What's your budget like?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Mr. Apollo posted:

The trim is all in good shape but it could use refinishing. That's why I'm wondering if I should stick with the varnished oak or do something else. I hadn't really thought about a budget right now since I'm focused on the windows but maybe $5K - $7K for all the trim in my house? I don't know if that's reasonable or not. My place is about 3,800 sq. ft.

I'd stick with what you got and refinishing it. Still that's a huge place for a DIYer. Do one room at a time. Use a putty knife to work the boards loose from the walls. Protip: you can write in pencil on the back sides of the boards where they go, like the room name, numbering, directions, etc.

devmd01 posted:

Nicely stained wood trim never goes out of style.

You're drat right.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Another method is to shim the hinges with some paperboard.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Sirotan posted:

Turn it off, put your food in a cooler, throw some towels in the bottom, point a hair dryer at it for a while and melt it all.

This is the answer. You don't even need the hair dryer if you have the time to wait.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Now is the time to wire up some outlets for your worktops.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Polio Vax Scene posted:

What is this metal plate above the gutter for?


What are these growths on this tree, anything I can do about them?


That plate is supposed to keep leaves out of your gutters. Your mileage may vary.

As for the tree growths, your tree is trying to make babies.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

FuzzySlippers posted:

In my garage if I frame/drywall the concrete wall and drywall the ceiling you can see where along the top of the concrete wall there will end up a little empty tunnel behind the frame/drywall and below the ceiling.


Anything wrong with that? I figure that could be used in the future if I need to run any more wire. I've found references to that being called a 'raceway' but I'm not sure if I'm supposed to like line it in anything if used that way. Maybe cut a couple access points in the drywall? Some kinda spacers for any romex running through it?

A "raceway" is basically any wiring path. It's a really open definition.

I'd just drywall over that space. You aren't losing that much space.

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kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
Is a duplex to one inlet allowed? I thought it was one to one.

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