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wooger
Apr 16, 2005

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Some Guy From NY posted:

Same scenario as you. The walls didn't even have 2x4 studs. It was originally brick, then like 1x1 boards and then sheetrock.

When I renovated the house, I added 2x4 studs which obviously caused internal loss of space, but it had to be done. So the final outcome was; brick, 2x4 studs with rockwool inbetween and then sheetrock. I believe a vapor barrier was placed between the brick and the rockwool.

From what I remember too about rockwool is that it is mold resist.

Oh, ouch.

Yes, I’ve thought about that as a solution, but ultimately it doesn’t get that cold here, I’m in a terrace, so 1/2 my walls won’t lose as much heat, and I just dont want to give up 4 inches from every external wall right now.

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wooger
Apr 16, 2005

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Darkrenown posted:

I do mean fjärrvärme, yes. I'm not against geothermal, but it costs a lot more to set up. The current setup is an airpump and an electric boiler for waterborne heat and hot water, plus electric underfloor heating in a couple of places. I'm not against just getting a new pump either, I just thought fjärrvärme would make sense with water based heating. I'll need to look into it more carefully, but it seems like Geothermal would be around 150k, fjärrvärme 60k, new air pump 20-30k.

Holy poo poo, you guys are talking about actual drill down to the hot stuff geothermal, not just a heatpump?

Is that something that’s only viable in certain areas?

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

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Hubis posted:

Oh, interesting. I guess I'd always conflated the two in my head as being sort of the same thing.

They are right? Just different options for the same method depending on what climate and geology it’s being installed in.

Darkrenown posted:


Does the US have fjärrvärme/district heating as an option? To explain, certain power plants also make a lot of hot water, which is then sent through insulated pipes to people's homes to be used as hot water and for radiators rather than having your own boiler.

Definitely don’t have it in the UK - it seems like a wonderful thing, though I guess you have to be fairly near to a power station for it to be an option?

We don’t even have central hot water heating within blocks of flats here - every single 1 bed flat has its own electric or has boiler, which has always bugged me as being a massive waste of resources - not to mention space in all the flats.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

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Darkrenown posted:

I assume there's some distance requirement, but it's not like the power station is close enough to see. In fact, I think what they actually do is pump the hot water to a large accumulator tank in the city and then the water is sent out from that.

And yeah, I'm from Scotland, so I've a lot of experience of UK flats. Included freezing my rear end off due to draughty 100 year old single pane windows, another nice thing about living in Sweden is double-glazing is almost universal and triple pane windows aren't uncommon.

I get the sense that decent double and triple glazed windows are for some reason much cheaper in Scandinavian countries and Germany than in the UK. I see no reason for this.

The majority of UK houses have the worst poo poo white PVC double glazing here, I’ve never seen a place in Sweden or Finland that didn’t at least have aluminium framed double glazing.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

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Is it not better to just get an HVAC guy to check the ducts and quote for a fix, during which time he will tell you exactly what’s wrong with the way it’s done. And if you ask, what he’d do to fix it.

Edit:
Get a few quotes and see if it’s worth your time to do a proper fix.

wooger fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Nov 24, 2020

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

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Elviscat posted:

No, there should be insulation between every conditioned and unconditioned space in your house, what you want is insulation between all the floor joists and a plastic vapor barrier encapsulating it. You can spray foam or caulk any gaps prior to insulating for more protection. There are entire companies devoted to doing this. As long as your crawlspace is properly ventilated it won't create any moisture issues.

Do you not want the vapour barrier between the floor & joists and the insulation in this case, rather than the other way round?

I’d use breathable insulation rather than any kind of foam, and put the vapour barrier on top (wrapped up over the joists), then insulation, then a wind proof (but vapour open) barrier on the bottom.

The gaps in the wood floor can also be filled with slivers of wood & a mix of sawdust & glue, though you really need to sand and refinish at the same time for it to look good.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

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OSU_Matthew posted:

Yes! look into French Cleat systems.
They’re also super strong and adaptable, and can do cabinets or anything else you come up with.

I just bought some mid century teak wall cabinets, and they actually come with their own proprietary french cleat system, with a spirit level built into the cleat. Top stuff.


OSU_Matthew posted:

If you’re just looking for floor standing shelves, wire shelving is the way to go imho.

Agree. Unless you’re storing ultra heavy stuff like engine blocks, in which case you’d need an industrial racking system anyway.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

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They’d better be generating all their energy from renewables before they tax people heating their homes.

Electricity from a coal power station is more polluting than a modern natural gas boiler by order of magnitude.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

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H110Hawk posted:

Short people need not apply. This looks like my dream.

The dream for tall people is no upper cabinets, blocking your view of half the counters.

Plus raise the counter height by 6 or 8 inches.

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wooger
Apr 16, 2005

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H110Hawk posted:

Where am I supposed to store things? I'm not bending down. Those lowers may as well not be there.

Full height floor to ceiling cabinets on another wall is my choice. And some minimal shelves for stuff I’m actively cooking with.

If you replace all lower cabinets with deep drawers they’re much more useable imo.

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