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Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
We had to cut a trench through our stamped and dyed slate-look concrete patio to run utility conduits. We're finally patching the cut on Wednesday. I was bemoaning the fact that it won't match the rest of the patio, and my wife suggested doing something creative with it, like embedding sea glass or something. Is it straightfoward to just sprinkle and smooth some sea glass in after its poured? Will this do terrible things to the lifespan of the concrete? We live in the San Francisco Bay Area, so it never really freezes here (so no freeze-thaw cycles on any water that may get under a piece of glass).

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Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
That video is very helpful, thanks! I may give this a try.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
Machine/saw out the holes on the striker plate to be taller so that they cover both extremes?

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

PainterofCrap posted:

I know a couple people that work there. They’re still pretty good - I still have my homeowners with them - but they are gradually going the way of Nationwide. Chubb is heading that way as well.

I’ve been with Allstate for a long time (though I guess the homeowners policy is Pacific Specialty as I was told Allstate wasn’t writing new homeowners policies, it’s still managed by my same Allstate agent though). I keep wondering if I should switch to someone else - who do you think is the most trustworthy?

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
My Samsung washer and dryer play a cheery rendition of Schubert's The Trout when they finish running. I had no idea it was a real piece of classical music until one day my father in law was playing classical music songs on YouTube for my toddler and The Trout came up and sounded oddly familiar.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9TpRsLdKVAg

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
Speaking of lovely paint jobs, I had my house painted a year or two ago and it's already peeling and flaking in many places. I now suspect this is because the painter didn't prime the bare wood siding. Will it be sufficient for now to scrape the places it is flaking and prime and repaint those places? Even without the primer the paint is holding on most of the house.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Final Blog Entry posted:

Yeah just scrape/sand those spots to a sound surface, spot prime, and repaint as needed. A slow-drying oil based exterior wood primer is generally best for wood siding, but I think the oil might flash worse than latex for spot repairs so you may be better going with a latex wood primer so you don't have shiny spots.

Was it all bare wood before you had it painted, or were there just spots of bare wood where it had peeled before?

Thanks! There was old vinyl siding over the original old growth redwood board siding, so the wood underneath was bare. We had them take the siding off and paint the house.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Danhenge posted:

I know that with Cedar it has oils in that mean that anything without really strong adherence can slough off - I dunno if Redwood is the same way.

I don't know either. The siding is presumably original to the house, i.e. from 1920, so I don't know how many of the original oils would be left by now anyway.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
Can you all help me think through everything I should do for a house that won’t be occupied for a bit? My mom is terminal in the hospital and won’t be returning to her house, and then I will inherit it. I’m sure it’s not that complicated but I don’t trust my mental capabilities all the way right now to not forget something dumb. We’re in the Bay Area so no worries about freezing temperatures or severe weather (not in a particularly flood prone spot and she has a sump pump that I know is working). My house is only 20 minutes away so going by the place isn’t too hard, and her neighbor is also looking out.

So far I can think of: set the thermostat lower (60? 55?), have the mail stopped or forwarded to me, clear out the fridge.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
Thanks everyone, I appreciate it. If I can't do anything for her directly, taking care of things at the house is at least something tangible I can do.

Premium forwarding is a good call, I didn't know about that service.

Airing out the fridge and turning it off is a good call. The sump pump is in a small basement (like 8' x 8' if that) that's not finished and basically holds just the furnace and water heater.

I think she already has some lights on timers but I'll check that they're set up right. She also has a smart doorbell camera so I should see if I can get that switched over to give alerts to my phone instead of hers.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
Pretty sure you can still get isopropyl alcohol in drug stores here.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Hed posted:

Yes, sorry I was phone posting. What everyone described was a metes and bounds survey. They're kind of cool, and it's all over old deeds in the eastern US.

My deed is like this too and I'm in the Bay Area. Might be because my neighborhood is fairly old, my house was built in 1920.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Anecdotal evidence and all, but my gas bill dropped by half in the summer when I switched my old gas tanked heater to tankless. I’m a one person household that doesn’t use a ton of hot water so maybe that makes me in the ‘most efficient for a tankless heater’ category. I’m in a fairly warm climate where the heater isn’t having to raise the incoming water temp a ton and I’m in one of the wettest areas of the country so I’m not too worried about the little bit of extra wasted water. As far as waiting for hot water, I don’t think it’s particularly longer than with my tanked heater. They are in about the same location and when the tankless thing fires up the water gets hot real fast.

Except for the initial install cost, A+++ it’s great I can fill my gigantic tub or take forever showers. I did have to get my gas meter upgraded and run a new, larger gas line to the water heater, but the gas co. took care of upgrading the meter and since I’m on a crawlspace, running a new copper tube gas line wasn’t a big expense.

I'll add another anecdote in favor of gas tankless. I have a gas tankless heater, switched from gas tank heater 5 or 6 years ago to make room for some rearranging we did. I have no complaints. It heats up in 5-10 seconds even at the farthest tap. My gas usage did not go up, nor did my water usage.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
Yeah, and it can be easy to slip from “didn’t plan well business-wise” to justifying shadier and shadier behavior to try to get out of the hole you’ve dug.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Final Blog Entry posted:

Stopped at Costco for a few things and saw they have an AC buying service with Lennox and an established local hvac company that does the estimates and installs. 15% back in the form of Costco bucks. Gonna have them out next week to get another quote to add to the pile.

Even accounting for the Costco gift card rebates, every home item I've gotten quoted from a Costco-based sales person has been much more expensive than getting it elsewhere (SunRun for solar, Lennox for AC).

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

StormDrain posted:

Goddamn microwave came with a dent.

Makes food real hot though which is nice.

Also I wish I had the time to redo this backsplash. It already was on the list since the new oven is a slide in rather than standalone and the shorter microwave added to it AND helps you see it easier.



nice selfie

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
I tend toward Delta after getting to visit their headquarters and tour their R&D lab ten years ago, I was impressed by the way they approached things. I've not been let down so far by anything of theirs.

They told a great story about how they didn't used to make toilets, but they saw a customer opinion survey that showed them as the number two most trusted toilet brand, so they figured they might as well start. Then they had to figure out how to get videos of lots of different people's usage so they could see all the different ways people interacted with toilets. When they did this for showers, the solution was to hire strippers to come in and allow themselves to be filmed showering. I think for toilets they didn't revisit this method and mostly just had anonymized videos of employees in a work bathroom that was clearly designated for the purpose. Because toilet usage is done in private, there's very little standardization about how each person does things -- we don't adjust our behavior based on what we see others do. But the one pattern that stood out is that, when sitting down, women pulled their pants down just enough to uncover their butt while men dropped their pants all the way to the floor.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Arsenic Lupin posted:

:iiam:

We're going to have to have septic work done, and code requires the new system handle N gallons of water use per bedroom. I am probably stating that imprecisely, at best: the issue is that how much waste the septic system is required to handle is a multiple of the number of bedrooms. So I called the county tax assessor to find out how many bedrooms we have on record. (It's ambiguous, because one of the three upstairs rooms doesn't have a closet, and I wasn't sure how to count it.)

The assessor tells me we have 1 2/3 bedrooms. That's 1.6666. The one bedroom is on the ground floor. The two-thirds are upstairs.

Does anybody have guesses how this could have come about? I know there have been renovations to at least one of the upstairs rooms, reducing its size to put in a bathroom, but that's all I know. This is in California, but I don't know the right search terms to find California/Mendocino County standards defining what is a bedroom.

I went out and did some measurements. The smallest room has more than 70 square feet of floorspace, the smallest dimension is 8 feet, the ceiling is 7.5 feet, and the window is at least 6 sq. feet and is operable and can be used as an exit assuming you don't mind falling 12 feet. Yes, we do own an escape ladder somewhere.

I have never heard of this. How many bedrooms do you think you have? Four?

Also, I would think that regardless of whatever weirdness is going on in the county records, if they've way under-counted your bedrooms you shouldn't just use that as an excuse to under-size your septic system. The septic system will know how many people are using it even if the county doesn't.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
It was super easy, I did it a few months ago. Got a big spool of cable and a bunch of keystone jacks. Make sure you get a line tester and test everything as you go so you can redo the jack on the spot if needed. I was pretty proud that all my jacks worked the first time and I ended up finding a broken 5 wire in one of the jacks my contractor put in. Annoyed too, but proud.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
Cat 6, unshielded. Cutting holes in the wall was fine. If you’re nervous, start small and then enlarge the hole. My only snafu was drilling a hole through the exterior wall with one of those really long drill bits for sliding down through the face plate cut out to drill down through the sill plate into the crawl space. Pulled it out and saw sunlight 😱

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

how do we make this the new thread title

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Rocko Bonaparte posted:

We're looking at a property where we'd have to do new construction and I'm trying to figure out the cost of a slab foundation for, say, a full house and an ADU vs having a basement ADU. The ADU would be for my mom. The impression I get is that building a basement would cost anywhere up to 3.5x the slab but the outside of windows, I'd have the exterior "for free." The alternative would be, say, an ~1850 square-foot house and a ~750 square foot ADU (restrictions on ADU sizes here). Here are some factors I consider in this:

1. Keeping all a big utility room in the basement so our main space doesn't have to have them.
2. Consider separate A/C ducting because that's apparently that's a huge vector for noise that can't otherwise be readily mitigated (?). With separate buildings, this isn't an issues, but I'd have separate A/C anyways.
3. Being able to build a basement into a hill or something so there's ground level access and decent windows on at least one side so it's not a dungeon.
4. I don't necessarily need the basement to be the full size of the upper floor. We'd want the upper floor to just be one-story. I suppose we could try to do, what, three stories of <1000 square feet each (like, 1000 + 1000 + 600 or whatever).
5. Sewage for the basement would be a hoot there because it would have to be septic and that field would have to flow properly.
6. Sump pump and flooding shenanigans.

We haven't even bid on the land yet and it's really the only one where we're considering new construction, so we're really just poking around on this.

We bought our house with an unfinished basement, which we then finished into an apartment for my in-laws. Later, we built a free-standing ADU at the back of the yard. As Shifty Pony said, stairs definitely become a challenge as they get older. Also, you can put a ton of nice windows in, but a basement is still a basement and you can only do so much for natural light. Also, there are limitations to sound proofing between levels.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

extravadanza posted:

Simple hook at D, towel bars at A and/or C.

I like this, hook just to keep the towel at hand during the shower, bar at A/C for drying and storage.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
If you think the moisture sensor is why your clothes aren't getting dry enough, make sure you check that your exhaust vent is clear.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
I'm pretty sure a switch with a timer (for auto-off) and/or humidity sensor (for auto-on) is required here (SF Bay Area). It's pretty nice, you don't have to think about turning it on or off.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

kreeningsons posted:

Considering my partner also has trouble remembering to turn the fan on while showering, then they will probably have the same trouble remembering that this one switch has to stay on all the time to power the humidity sensor. So I guess I’m going to look into the low voltage switch option. Hopefully that could spare me from having to explain to guests how to power the fan if they want to drown out any bathroom odors or noises, too.

If you don't have nwin's problem, i.e. if you do have space for one full sized switch devoted to the fan, then the regular humidity sensor/timer switch should be good for you. Ours (Leviton) is a push-button to turn it on or off, it's not a regular toggle switch.




Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

PainterofCrap posted:

Tradespeople have worked their whole careers without ever having seen, let alone worked with, lath & plaster.

Outside of the Northeast, plaster gets rarer & rarer. I remember dealing with an adjuster from Houston, who was doing storm duty in Philadelphia, that had never seen a building erected before 1965. He marveled at what old-growth lumber and dimensional framing looked like.

SF Bay Area here, plenty of 1920s and 1930s California bungalows in my neighborhood. My house is from 1920, lath and plaster, and old growth redwood siding.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
:rip:

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
Opened my back door this afternoon and then it wouldn't close. The bottom of it is now sticking out just enough to catch on the doorframe, just a couple millimeters it seems. Do I sand it down? Drive a screw into it? Some other fix?

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
It has been wet here, so that's probably the most proximate cause. But the rubbing is interesting, I hadn't really looked at that until I had a reason to. I suppose the door could be a bit off square -- seems to be some more room at the top of the frame (though not enough for a gap).

Edit: actually the door looks to be quite square still, just this bottom piece that's sprung out. I'll try a screw.

Muir fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Jan 31, 2024

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Muir posted:

It has been wet here, so that's probably the most proximate cause. But the rubbing is interesting, I hadn't really looked at that until I had a reason to. I suppose the door could be a bit off square -- seems to be some more room at the top of the frame (though not enough for a gap).

Edit: actually the door looks to be quite square still, just this bottom piece that's sprung out. I'll try a screw.

So, uh, it fixed itself. I think it is a swelling issue, but what triggered it today is my wife left the door open for a while, when we normally never leave that door open. So I think normally it swells and shrinks within the confines of the door frame (likely causing the occasional scraping that's visible), whereas today it swelled outside the door frame and so wasn't confined. I went back to look at it again, and it closed just fine.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

VelociBacon posted:

I don't know your situation but that doorframe needs probably some work regardless. If your door doesn't look like that doorframe don't do anything to the door (like sanding it etc).

Here's the whole door frame -- it looks even all around to me?


The bottom of the door has some damage (thanks, kids) so that piece that's separating is probably why there's so much play there.


The inside of the door frame doesn't seem to have any damage from that, though.


And the rest of the door itself is in good shape.


The door and frame were done about 6 years ago when we redid the back of the house.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

Verman posted:

Likely moisture intrusion caused it to swell and you closed the door and caught it. Was there a recent volume of precipitation or a big temperature/humidity swing?

The bottom of my door did this. My guess is the sill plate got some water under it and pushed the metal plate up which caused friction with my door. If it's a tight fit, it doesn't need to swell much.

Yeah, I’m in the Bay Area. We had some big rain a week ago and some more coming tomorrow, but nothing in the past few days.

Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you
just throw a run of flex tape down on that bad boy
/s

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Muir
Sep 27, 2005

that's Doctor Brain to you

w00tmonger posted:

Crossposting

Is that all just regular-rear end Douglas Fir? If so, it's not going to last more than a few years in contact with the ground.

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