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illcendiary
Dec 4, 2005

Damn, this is good coffee.

actionjackson posted:

every appliance should play the LG washer chime when it's completed whatever it's doing

I’d gladly give up the nice chime for the ability to lock out the power button when I turn on the child lock. The child lock prevents my kid from pressing all buttons *except* for the power button, so it can’t stop him from stopping something midwash. It’s absolutely infuriating. My FIL has an older LG where the panel lockout includes the power button, so I guess it’s a recent change. Must be a safety thing

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illcendiary
Dec 4, 2005

Damn, this is good coffee.
I have a vented crawlspace (SoCal) that I’m looking to do some work in. I’m hoping to seal off some plumbing gaps through the flooring, along with some tidying work (junk left by previous contractors, etc.).

It’s a pier-and-beam foundation, vented along the perimeter, with no vapor barrier installed. There are a lot of rocks on the ground when you crawl around - would it be safe to remove them? I assume they’re just random rock that was underground at time of construction (mid-60s), but it makes it annoying to crawl around with so much rock. Just not sure if there’s a downside to cleaning them out, like some sort of soil retention mechanism.

illcendiary
Dec 4, 2005

Damn, this is good coffee.
I bought our bedroom fans from Modern Fan Company exclusively based on looks, they work pretty well too. The remote does kinda suck though.

illcendiary
Dec 4, 2005

Damn, this is good coffee.

corgski posted:

You can probably find some dude in a rural cornfield in Iowa who's happy just to have the opportunity and it's throwing the whole estimate off. 2k for a service upgrade isn't even get out of bed money to an electrician.

Anytime I see TOH or Quora estimates on work I just take that number and multiply it by 3 for San Diego and that usually gets me in the ballpark.

illcendiary
Dec 4, 2005

Damn, this is good coffee.

Shifty Pony posted:

Also interested to know this. Need to replace a ~2004 toilet with abominable flushing power with something better.

Toto Drake?

When we bought our house, every bathroom had a 1960s-era American Standard 5-gallon flush toilet in there, era-specific pastels to match each room’s color. Sucked to get rid of them because they looked cool but we have Toto Drake IIs in their place and they’ve worked well

illcendiary
Dec 4, 2005

Damn, this is good coffee.

Qwijib0 posted:

tru-tone has restocked for 2023, if anyone is looking for good C7/C9 LED christmas lights

https://tru-tone.com/

I have mine put up for the year already, we’re expecting kid #2 any day now and I figured I may as well make use of free time while I could. They look great

illcendiary
Dec 4, 2005

Damn, this is good coffee.

Shifty Pony posted:

Welp, I hope everyone got their tru-tone orders in before today because Technology Connections (2.14M subscribers) just name dropped them hard with an unpaid endorsement.

He’s been talking about them for a couple years now, I believe it’s part of how they took off.

illcendiary
Dec 4, 2005

Damn, this is good coffee.
I used these:

https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/223220/CLIP-10009.html

They worked extremely well; I attached them to my roof’s flashing as opposed to gutters. My roof is a 1/12 and my house is one story so walking around is trivial, but 200’ of installation took about 20 minutes once I had the strings set up.

illcendiary
Dec 4, 2005

Damn, this is good coffee.
Asking here as more of a sanity check before I take on this job, figured it was as good a place as any to inquire.

Bought our home (Southern California) in September 2022, renovated for a few months and moved in November 2022. The main disclosure from the seller’s side was that the roof was leaky in the living room of the home. There were water marks on the ceiling when we moved in so it seemed like an honest disclosure, and the problem point in particular appeared to be the chimney. This is the living room:



This is a closeup of what the ceiling/stone looks like when it's wet and is leaking:



Here is the roof/chimney in question:



This is the east elevation (i.e. facing west). The roof (tar and gravel) was installed in 2012 and appears to be in good condition for the entire span except for this single problem area. Every roofer (four) I had to assess the roof before purchasing the home who actually got up and walked around on it told me it was installed well and had a lot of life left. We’ve lived here for a year, we monitored all rooms during the (admittedly few) heavy rain events we experience here, I crawled around the attic at multiple points during downpours to keep an eye out for water intrusion, etc. This is the one spot in the house with a leak. All that is to say, please don’t tell me to replace my roof. That is on the radar for 5-10 years from now.

An additional photo of the chimney. This is the southeast elevation, facing northwest.



These photos were taken in December 2022/January 2023 respectively, so before we did anything to the area. This is how we purchased the home. You can see issues with the flashing between the chimney and the roof, including a spot where it was clearly patched up with some Henry’s wet patch or whatever.

This is what we thought was the root cause of the issue; namely, water leaking down the south and east elevations of the chimney, getting past the flashing, and then leaking through along the cinder block construction of the chimney proper. This channeled water along the cinder block through the attic (there isn’t any decorative stone in the attic of course) and onto the chimney rock in the living room, where it also leaks along the ceiling plaster.

We paid a roofing company to repair the flashing in February of last year. This entailed removing the old flashing, cleaning up the surfaces that had the old patch applied, removing the torch down surface of the roof extending about two feet away from the chimney, and then reapplying the tar and gravel with a torch. All in all it seemed like they did a good job…but it didn’t fix the leaks.

This led me to my next theory, which is that the tuck pointing between the rocks had deteriorated/was woefully inadequate. At some point in the lifespan of the house (built 1964), the owners paid someone (or I guess they could have done it themselves) to apply a sort of sealant between the rocks. It’s sort of rubbery and has clear cracks in it, which tells me it’s past its useful life or maybe wasn’t the right material in the first place. You can see the material between the stones in the image below (disregard the red circle, it’s from an earlier round of troubleshooting last year, that flashing/sealing has been replaced).



Now it looks pretty plain to me that this stuff looks like absolute rear end. My wife and I were able to spend several weekends on the roof scraping the sealant out of the south elevation, and then we tuckpointed with a mix of Portland and quikrete. All in all I think we did a pretty good job, I don’t believe that part of the chimney leaks anymore, and it looks good (my opinion - Motronic, please yell at my workmanship by all means).



The problem is that we pulled this poo poo out with picks and it took two of us working probably 8-10 hours combined to do pull it out. The tuck pointing was easy by comparison. The east elevation is like 4-5 times the area of the south elevation and my wrist hurts just thinking about tackling this project. My questions are:

1. Does this seem like an adequate solution to stopping water intrusion into the gap between the stone facade and cinderblock chimney construction
2. Does the material used previously as a sealant look familiar to anyone?
3. Is there’s an easier way to pull this poo poo out? Assume tool cost is not an issue, I will gladly pay to expedite the process
4. I suppose it's *possible* that the flashing repair company didn't do a good job, but a visual inspection makes it look like there's a good seal there, at least to me

Another mitigating factor is that the roof is a 1/12 or 1.5/12; great to walk around in, but for this particular corner of the attic, near impossible to reach.

I appreciate the help and thoughts!

illcendiary
Dec 4, 2005

Damn, this is good coffee.

Horatius Bonar posted:

Water traveling down the masonry seems like the problem. Repointing will help but not fundamentally solve it. Does the flashing installed extended back to the cinder block behind?


Something like this. Existing sheathing would be the cinder block.

If so good news, I'm pretty sure you can and should remove all that caulk, that's blocking the drainage plane for water. I don't see any on-purpose weep holes in the masonry.

If your flashing doesn't go back to the cinder block, get in touch with a mason.

That’s a great diagram, thank you! I seriously doubt the flashing goes back that far. My guess is that it just sits under the stone facade and is tar/mastic’ed in place. In other words, an L shape and not a flattened Z shape as shown in a diagram, lacking the additional upward reach between the stone and cinderblock.

Blegh, that seems like an even more extensive rework. I’ll see what masons I can find in the area to work on.

illcendiary
Dec 4, 2005

Damn, this is good coffee.

Vim Fuego posted:

I had a rock chimney causing roof leaks maybe a decade ago. I hired a mason to tear it apart and completely rebuild it from the roof level up. I believe it cost $4-5000, but it's been a long time.

Yeah between Covid and being in SoCal (both of which are 2x multipliers in my experience) I’m going to assume it’s a $20k job for my house. I’m inclined to just make replacing small portion of the ceiling an annual tradition. When we we replaced the ceiling last year as part of some drywall and painting work and that portion wasn’t all that expensive.

illcendiary
Dec 4, 2005

Damn, this is good coffee.

Tezer posted:

I recommend that you call a mason. Not someone who will work on masonry, someone who only works on masonry.

My initial thoughts are that you may have used the wrong material for tuckpointing. I see the words 'Portland' and 'Quikcrete' but not the word 'mortar'. What I would really like to see is the term 'type [X] mortar' with a description of why you selected that mortar type. This wouldn't result in water leaks (and you say that area no longer leaks), but if you're using the wrong mortar there may be other things that are going wrong.

The chimney cap, the poured flat top of the chimney, is not a very good one. All rain that hits it will run down the stone face with plenty of time to seep into any cracks in the mortar and make contact with the flashing below if it doesn't get absorbed before that. A good chimney cap will extend beyond the face of the stone (an 'overhang' on all four sides) and allow water to drip directly onto the roofing below. This way the bulk water raining down on the top of the chimney avoids touching the two areas that are likely to leak - the mortar and the roof flashing.

A good mason can quote repointing the entire chimney (if needed, maybe you used the right mortar and that area is good!) and repouring the cap. They will also be able to diagnose your issue with greater specificity. I doubt you want to pour that cap yourself, and it definitely needs to be replaced, which is why I'm jumping straight to 'call an expert'.

Thanks, this is helpful. I misspoke, these are the materials I used:




You can't quite see it in the second photo, but it's Type-S. I was working off of recommendations from this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWHC2NyuJR4&t=116s

The feedback on the chimney cap/crown makes sense. We had a separate contractor come out for fireplace/chimney repair (unrelated to the stone/leakiness stuff) because a third contractor (chimney sweep) recommended repairs after we had it cleaned out. We haven't used the chimney since we moved in which is not a huge deal, but resealing the crown was part of his quote. I wonder if he intended to build it out to allow a direct drip down, as you mentioned. I guess I can call him back out and ask, considering the quote was from around a year ago.

I asked him for help regarding repointing but he said he had no interest. Looking back at the email though, he did provide the name of a mason who he thought might be able to help.

Appreciate all the feedback thus far, everyone.

illcendiary
Dec 4, 2005

Damn, this is good coffee.

Arsenic Lupin posted:

For people whose partners want to paint brick: See if you can talk them down to limewash. It's much more removable than actual paint.

If your partner wants to paint brick, sever

illcendiary
Dec 4, 2005

Damn, this is good coffee.

mutata posted:

Earthships loving rock. So do geodesic domes, too, by the way, even though they are awful and make awful homes. The Tom Scott video about the rotating house in San Diego or wherever was awesome too.

Man, hosed up little houses are the best.

Edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gisdyTBMNyQ

This is on Mt. Helix in La Mesa, just east of San Diego proper. Really cool house, you can drive right by it on the way to the top of Mt. Helix.

illcendiary
Dec 4, 2005

Damn, this is good coffee.

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Grab a dremel and a sanding/grinding attachment, and enlarge the hole in the strike plate on the doorframe.

Lol it never occurred to me to do this. Thank you!

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illcendiary
Dec 4, 2005

Damn, this is good coffee.
I think your house looks nice and I probably wouldn’t notice, OP

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