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Slavvy posted:I don't believe that's true as thousands of cars get imported here every day and the only time they get taken apart is when they're inspected for roadworthiness long after they've left port of entry. Getting it into NZ wouldn’t be the hard bit. Getting it home in Australia is. AQIS are the guys who will arrest you over a banana.
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Jun 29, 2018 14:24
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Right that makes sense, forgot Australia doesn't have a huge vehicle import industry 
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Jun 29, 2018 21:02
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One of the things I failed WOF on was leaking power steering box, it’s been leaking for like a year so it wasn’t really a surprise. Got a used box for $220, dropped it off at the shop today to be swapped over since I’m away from home for work next week and don’t have time to play with it myself. Will keep the old box and have it recon’d for a spare.
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Jul 5, 2018 22:05
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Cruiser has been sitting on the front lawn for the last month or so, hasn’t really moved. Tossing up selling it as-is to fund a slightly newer rust-free Toyota 4wd of some kind. Don’t actually need a daily driver in my town as pretty much everything is less than 2km away and I have been getting in the habit of walking or biking everywhere. Have been keeping an eye on JCD for a fairly specific vehicle but it appears that they’re extremely uncommon. So that’s my boring update. May keep the Cruiser, May not. Depends if I can find what I want and if the panel beater reckons that my rust can legitimately be permanently fixed because I don’t want to deal with more in another 12 months
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Aug 11, 2018 22:07
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I've decided with great regret that it just makes sense to sell the BJ73 rather than pour money in to fix the rust temporarily. A sad day
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Aug 23, 2018 08:42
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Well, poo poo.
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Aug 24, 2018 02:44
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 Mini-Troopie
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Aug 24, 2018 03:02
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What will you buy instead? I saw a nice full size one at Horopito the other day.
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Aug 24, 2018 05:11
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Let's just say that manual, diesel, leaf-sprung, solid-axle, old, Toyota 4wds are not out of my life
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Aug 24, 2018 05:35
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Hopefully rust, on the other hand, IS out of my life
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Aug 24, 2018 05:42
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gimpsuitjones posted:Let's just say that manual, diesel, leaf-sprung, solid-axle, old, Toyota 4wds are not out of my life *Ferremit gets an unknown phone call from a NZ phone number*
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Aug 24, 2018 07:01
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I still need that Hilux!!!!
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Aug 24, 2018 10:33
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Ferremit posted:I still need that Hilux!!!! A whole LN106 is just about cheaper than a 1HD-FTE from a wreckers, right?
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Aug 24, 2018 11:28
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The Cruiser knows I’m trying to sell it, wouldn’t start when I went to move it to take the bullbar and winch off and take photos for sale, an hour of winching with my hi-lift jack later and trying to push start a cold indirect injection high compression diesel later, I’m very sweaty and it’s running at a high idle in the driveway
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Aug 25, 2018 01:39
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gimpsuitjones posted:A whole LN106 is just about cheaper than a 1HD-FTE from a wreckers, right? A house is just about cheaper than an FTE from a wrecker....
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Aug 25, 2018 09:34
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Ferremit posted:A house is just about cheaper than an FTE from a wrecker.... You haven't seen NZ housing prices lately huh 
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Aug 25, 2018 09:49
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That said, I already own a house, didn't buy something with a 1HD-FTE, and may or may not have bought a mint low-k's rust-free LN106.
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Aug 25, 2018 09:54
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Well.... 1KZ-TE's fit in those things like a glove- just gotta move the engine mounts on the chassis forward 60mm, but you'd probably weld them on better than Toyota did originally anyway if you do move them... Tho since the 2L-TE and 3L basically share blocks and heads, and are just bored and stroked, you CAN steal all the turbo stuff off a rusted out 2L-TE surf and bolt it straight onto the 3L motor. I think you have to swap two head studs in the head to make it work, but the holes are already there so its just a case of running a tap down the holes to clean the threads out and then using two nuts to move the studs over. the 1KZ is the more fun option tho. Nothing quite like turning the inside rear tyre into a cloud of smoke in 3rd gear at 1400rpm going around tight corners! If you are thinking bout sticking 33's under it, Im pretty sure Ive got a snake racing 2" body lift kit and the bolts for it kicking around SOMEWHERE in dads shed?
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Aug 26, 2018 00:58
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Ferremit posted:Well.... 1KZ-TE's fit in those things like a glove- just gotta move the engine mounts on the chassis forward 60mm, but you'd probably weld them on better than Toyota did originally anyway if you do move them... Found a mint rust-free single cab with less than 150k km on the clock so the plan is to drive the 3L til it's stuffed before thinking about an engine swap... which might take 20 years since it'll only be used for hunting/4wd/road trips and bits and pieces of housework like hauling firewood. I will be finding a blown 2LT to poach the turbo bits, maybe with an aftermarket or upgraded turbo though. I've been driving a mate's double-cab with turbo'd 3L lately and it pulls well enough that I'd be happy with it, weighs 2ton which is probably quite a bit more than the single-cab (haven't picked it up yet and won't for another 2 weeks). Feels similar to my old 1KZ Surf. Will be getting my 33/10.5s on it eventually but I'm probably going to go with a front diff relocate to fit them rather than a body lift, want to keep it as low as possible... they are known as the Rollux after all. Cheers though.
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Aug 26, 2018 01:51
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So I picked this up today. Full on farmer-spec, poverty pack 1994 LN106 Hilux. Single cab, n/a 2.8 diesel, LSD rear open front, standard 4.3s, solid axle, leaf springs, lovely chinese ATs on generic steelies, front benchie, 5speed manual, poo poo bullbar and alloy steps, legit 145,000km, no rust, literal porch board flatdeck, I'm the second owner. Modifications have already begun: I bought a space case for the deck because there is no room at all in the cab 
gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 10:52 on Sep 8, 2018 |
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Sep 8, 2018 10:47
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gimpsuitjones posted:So I picked this up today. Ok, this is lovely.
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Sep 8, 2018 17:54
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What's a benchie? And good score on rust and mileage.
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Sep 8, 2018 19:15
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gimpsuitjones posted:So I picked this up today. Nice, you basically got the dream lux configuration. All you need now is a 5LT!
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Sep 8, 2018 20:12
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cakesmith handyman posted:What's a benchie? And good score on rust and mileage. Technically a 3 seater 
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Sep 8, 2018 21:07
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Retract crotch before engaging 4LO.
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Sep 8, 2018 21:37
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143K? Yeah, that’s actually “open front and rear diffs”. Toyota can’t make a LSD to save their life. It was hosed the moment the first owner turned out of the dealership. Those LN106’s are HILARIOUSLY/TERRIFYINGLY quick with a 1KZ under the hood and 4.5 diffs on 265/75R16’s. Certainly do not have the brakes to match the engine! Looks pretty sweet. I couldn’t go back to a single cab- I like to actually recline my seats now! Correction- maybe a single cab 70 series...
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Sep 9, 2018 00:40
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^^ yeah the limited slip doesn’t, but that’s pretty normal with a Toyota. Will be getting lockers of some kind anyway Took it up Takapari Road for a bit of a test, goes well with stock springs and lovely Chinese all terrains, the 3L actually pulls great in a 1500kg Ute. 31s scrub in the front under flex. Rear doesn’t have enough weight in it to flex much with the heavy load springs at the moment. Definitely want spring lift for more flex and a diff push or body lift for clearance. 
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Sep 9, 2018 01:07
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I love this.
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Sep 9, 2018 09:25
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gimpsuitjones posted:^^ yeah the limited slip doesn’t, but that’s pretty normal with a Toyota. Will be getting lockers of some kind anyway Do you have any plans for the bed? I know with your trips you pack a ton of gear and water, any plans for sides? Just sayin.. stakesides with bows and a cargo cover would be pretty awesome. Something like an M37: 
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Sep 11, 2018 03:52
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gimpsuitjones posted:So I picked this up today. Nice dude. Are you gonna keep the flat deck or replace it with a traditional gated pickup bed? also, I've never seen a grill guard that runs directly into the running boards, but its kind of amazing.
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Sep 11, 2018 20:23
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rifles posted:Do you have any plans for the bed? I know with your trips you pack a ton of gear and water, any plans for sides? I'm planning to chop 6 or 8 inches of length off, and build a frame of some kind over it, probably with a hard roof and roll down canvas sides, possibly with some kind of drawer system. Lots of ideas out there, just need to decide what will be most practical for me
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Sep 15, 2018 09:13
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Kommienzuspadt posted:Nice dude. Are you gonna keep the flat deck or replace it with a traditional gated pickup bed? Gonna keep the flat deck but mod it a bit. Brush bars attached to the bullbar are pretty standard in NZ/Oz
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Sep 15, 2018 09:14
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Got the Hilux home, via a few backroads/4wd tracks I'd not driven yet. It goes really well and is pretty much mint. Gave it a good clean out inside after I got home to try get rid of the sheep smell, there was an absolute pile of hay everywhere, including packed all around the fusebox. Found one little bit of surface rust in the passenger side drip rail where some schmutz had built up and retained water, but it should be easy to fix and the floor, sills, firewall, chassis are all mint. Floors on these old Hiluxes rust out really bad sometimes but this one is like new.     Assembled in New Zealand!  Engine bay is mint  and now, my modifications/to do list, sort-of in order: - Thorough external clean - Tidy up wee bit of surface rust - Install a functional head unit - New am/fm aerial that isn't broken and won't break in future (whip aerial replacing the factory telescopic junk ideally, taking suggestions) - Replace that one tiny stupid plastic dash trim clip I broke - Extended diff breathers - Rear mud flaps - Seat cover - New carpet or vinyl for floor? Drivers side floor has a rip in it - LN65 steering wheel for ~*retro*~ 2-spoke action - Fit my 33/10.5R15s - 2 inch spring lift all round - Drop drag link - Adjustable torque rod - Front diff relocate, either through re-drilling spring perches or adapter plates - Extended brake lines - rear u-bolt flip kit (apparently a front u-bolt flip needs hi steer) - Surf air-box - Snorkel - 2LTE turbo parts! - EGT+Boost gauges - ARB bullbar - Adapt existing side steps to attach to ARB bar? - Front recovery points - Change my 24v winch over to 12v and install - Chop tray - Reattach back end of tray - Chop horrendous tow bar off tray - obtain better towbar for rear recovery point - re-line tray with ply - build frame for tray - UHF radio - Spotties? - Second battery + isolator/battery management - Solar input to run second battery/accessories - oh yeah some kind of lockers front and rear gently caress that's quite a long list gimpsuitjones fucked around with this message at 10:36 on Sep 15, 2018 |
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Sep 15, 2018 09:34
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I'm impressed that I managed to get 9.8L per 100km on tyres that ranged from 24-27psi, pretty good mileage
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Sep 16, 2018 01:45
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On the plus side the 33s look rad On the minus side my rims rub the calliper so they don’t actually fit. Boo, have to buy new rims. It’s not a problem with the offset, it’s just a little lip on the inside of the D window holes 
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Sep 16, 2018 09:45
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gimpsuitjones posted:On the plus side the 33s look rad Rub, or catch? If they just rub, you can probably file the caliper slightly to fit. If they catch, yeah, it's new wheel time, or 5mm spacers?
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Sep 17, 2018 13:29
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If its those little fins on the calipers, they can be massaged away with a flap wheel on a grinder. Was the only way to get 16" rims onto a 120 series prado IIRC.
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Sep 17, 2018 14:36
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Yeah it’s the fins. Spacers aren’t legal here unfortunately. Considered grinding the callipers, not sure which way to go yet
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Sep 17, 2018 19:48
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Grind 'em. I've done it before, and the 14" VW wheels I run on the Fit in the winter rubbed until I let them self-machine the caliper to fit. 
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Sep 17, 2018 22:43
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They fully lock up the front wheels so it’s maybe a mm or 2 of grinding on the calliper... will have another look sometime it’s not raining and decide on the appropriate course of action
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Sep 18, 2018 01:48
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