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I'd be willing to take a crack at installing them to be honest, I'm aware of the risks and could and would treat them like they were actively trying to kill me. The rubber was my concern.
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May 2, 2016 02:52
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Garbage Dick posted:I'd be willing to take a crack at installing them to be honest, I'm aware of the risks and could and would treat them like they were actively trying to kill me. The rubber was my concern. Listen I am all for absurd hijinx but loving with some rusted rear end split rims in a field somewhere without a safety cage? If you die I want it to be funny not all explodey (I don't want you to die)
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May 2, 2016 03:25
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Explodey deaths are funny deaths, usually. I mean I don't want him to die, but I'd be lying if I said I wouldn't watch that video.
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May 2, 2016 03:33
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I've read up on the process, and it's basically like anything else that could kill my rear end instantly. Make sure it's clean. Make sure you are deliberate and not cut corners. KNOW AND RESPECT THE TRAJECTORY DANGER ZONE (click me) I mean I did do tires for a decade, I know what I'm doing I'M A PROFESSIONAL
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May 2, 2016 03:36
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Yeah it's a matter of thorough cleaning, inspection and making sure everything's seated (also peeling the ring off without putting too much tension on it, a sprung lock ring is bad). It's one of those things where it's really easy to kill yourself but it's also really easy to not kill yourself. efb, 13" knows what's up, they are what they are. Any tire is dangerous anyway, of the 6 serious blowout incidents I had to do paperwork for 4 were radial tires on drop center wheels. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 03:59 on May 2, 2016 |
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May 2, 2016 03:52
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Christ almighty I feel like someone slipped amphetamines into AI's Raisin Bran this year and now we're all just trying to turn it up to 11. How do you safely de rust a split rim for cleaning? Wire brush and prayer?
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May 2, 2016 03:54
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Christ almighty I feel like someone slipped amphetamines into AI's Raisin Bran this year and now we're all just trying to turn it up to 11. I had a 5" knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder, severe crusty scale-y poo poo gets chipped with medium-light hits with the ball peen first. A regular wire brush and any hammer-like object would do if you aren't doing 'em all day every day.
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May 2, 2016 04:02
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Christ almighty I feel like someone slipped amphetamines into AI's Raisin Bran this year and now we're all just trying to turn it up to 11. The doctor didn't buy that excuse 
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May 2, 2016 04:03
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Tommychu posted:Yeah it's a matter of thorough cleaning, inspection and making sure everything's seated (also peeling the ring off without putting too much tension on it, a sprung lock ring is bad). It's one of those things where it's really easy to kill yourself but it's also really easy to not kill yourself. Yes but then there is the matter of doing it in a field in the middle of nowhere with possibly inadequate tools. But I digress can we get this go fund me going or what?
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May 2, 2016 04:11
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I guarantee if we can get a compressor set up, possibly rent a generator, I can fab up a long reach air line http://m.audiko.com/ringtone/mad-max-fury-road---buzzards-arrive/war-rig?ring=37322963 and we just play dodge the incoming rounds on their way back.
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May 2, 2016 04:14
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It looks like I can pretty definitely provide miles for SEA to CMH - gimme dates and confirm we're a go, I'll need some dick info, and I can book.
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May 2, 2016 04:26
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I just need to find out a little bit more on actual time lines and dates as well and I'll get ahold of people offering with my details
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May 2, 2016 04:38
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I used to help my dad replace the tyres on his truck which ran split rims. As long as you clean the rust off (usually used a drill with a wire brush attachment) and deflate the tube before removing the tyre, it's all good. Never had any issues.
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May 2, 2016 04:49
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You Am I posted:I used to help my dad replace the tyres on his truck which ran split rims. As long as you clean the rust off (usually used a drill with a wire brush attachment) and deflate the tube before removing the tyre, it's all good. Never had any issues. Yes but there are plenty of videos in dedicated split rim handling shops of the mofos exploding I'm just saying this is a random eBay dump truck that is going to be towed to god knows where and blah blah last I will say on it just make this happen I am ready to donate to this cause
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May 2, 2016 05:27
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Garbage Dick posted:I've read up on the process, and it's basically like anything else that could kill my rear end instantly. Make sure it's clean. Make sure you are deliberate and not cut corners. Hoooooooooooly poo poo that's just.... yeah no thanks
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May 2, 2016 05:47
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Re-use of the rims also assumes that they are salvageable. On an ebay truck that has been sitting in a field for however long. If it were me I'd assume they are shot and plan accordingly... but then I also wouldn't be making this thread, so more power to you either way.
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May 2, 2016 05:47
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The owner of the Gremlin I've posted about is very seriously weighing quitting his job and flying himself out with me to participate.
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May 2, 2016 06:45
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Someone set up a Go Fund me or whatever already, I need a new car but I need this much, much more.
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May 2, 2016 12:29
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Garbage Dick posted:The owner of the Gremlin I've posted about is very seriously weighing quitting his job and flying himself out with me to participate. I'm becoming increasingly concerned with how you are, for lack of a better term, grooming that boy.
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May 2, 2016 16:15
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm becoming increasingly concerned with how you are, for lack of a better term, grooming that boy. I smell a reality show.
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May 2, 2016 19:24
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm becoming increasingly concerned with how you are, for lack of a better term, grooming that boy. Flat-rate techs are not born, but rather crafted with pain and corruption.
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May 3, 2016 06:59
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Hoooooooooooly poo poo that's just.... yeah no thanks No, it's perfectly safe, just get a safety cage https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2HwfyjUXFI Powershift fucked around with this message at 07:14 on May 3, 2016 |
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May 3, 2016 07:12
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Powershift posted:No, it's perfectly safe, just get a safety cage He was wearing his hard hat, he'll be fine.
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May 3, 2016 07:18
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Powershift posted:No, it's perfectly safe, just get a safety cage Holy Christ, I need a super slow mo to see what the hell even happened 
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May 3, 2016 07:31
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Sidewall failed where it meets the tread right about neck level to the dummy. Decapitated it nicely and blew the body at least 15'.
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May 3, 2016 11:14
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everdave posted:just make this happen I am ready to donate to this cause Buy plat for ExplodingSims and Garbage Dick so they can PM?
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May 3, 2016 13:50
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Liquid Communism posted:Sidewall failed where it meets the tread right about neck level to the dummy. Decapitated it nicely and blew the body at least 15'. It boggles my mind that the air escaping the tire alone could do that, if that's possible what is even the point of the cage.
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May 3, 2016 16:18
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The point of the cage is that you're not supposed to rest your head on the cage.
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May 3, 2016 16:31
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leica posted:It blows my mind Fixed for relevance.
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May 3, 2016 16:33
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Astonishing Wang posted:The point of the cage is that you're not supposed to rest your head on the cage. I don't think just standing next to it would have made much difference, your lifeless ragdoll body gets thrown 10 feet instead of 15 maybe?
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May 3, 2016 16:38
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leica posted:I don't think just standing next to it would have made much difference, your lifeless ragdoll body gets thrown 10 feet instead of 15 maybe? It looks to me like if they'd placed the dummy about 6" from the cage it wouldn't have been touched by the cage. 6" makes a huge difference in this case. Usually I'm arguing that 4" is decent but today it's 6".
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May 3, 2016 16:52
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Astonishing Wang posted:It looks to me like if they'd placed the dummy about 6" from the cage it wouldn't have been touched by the cage. 6" makes a huge difference in this case. Usually I'm arguing that 4" is decent but today it's 6". Plus that was a 25 pound dummy, not an actual person. 150 pounds makes a huge difference in this case.
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May 3, 2016 17:10
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Stuff you're gonna want to replace - - all wheel bearings and seals. Cross your fingers that you don't have to, but don't be surprised when they are junk from sitting in contaminated oil/grease (and in the case of the top half of any bearing, sitting in nothing, rusting) for years. - check the differential. If the ring gear has been sitting in the same spot for years there's a very high chance that 2/3 of it is covered in bubbly blistered rust and the rest is buried in mucky emulsified solidified oil. My rear diff and wheel bearings on my MJ are loud as hell compared to how they were when I parked it, and it only sat for 5 years and was moved several times 3 years ago. If this happens, you can either disassemble it and wirebrush+brakleen it off and reassemble with fresh oil and cross your fingers for a few thousand miles before failure, or you can install a different axle, or you can stick it on uship and deal with it at home. - all ujoints are probably seized solid, or the needle bearings are a pile of rust and they'll fail within a few hundred miles - tires of course - the whole fuel system - the whole brake hydraulic system - remember that the brake shoes and clutch most assuredly are going to be asbestos on that beast. And all the brake dust in all 4 drums. And all the dust in the bellhousing. - the engine and head probably have flash rust and caked-on dust all over them on places you'd really rather not have rust at all. Plan on a new motor before moving it, IMO, unless you are REALLY lucky. - regrease the entire chassis/suspension/steering. Expect at least a few things in the suspension and steering to be seized solid or made out of rust that will fall apart when you've driven a short distance, leaving you with very loose sloppy joints. My truck, again, had zero steering issues in 2013 when it was last moved, and now has deathwobble and had 1/8" of play in a track bar rod-end that wasn't loose before. - at least pop the top off the transmission and make sure it isn't full of water, mud, or nests/mouse food storage, double check that the top half of the transmission internals aren't a solid ball of rust from the oil draining off after a few years, etc. Electrical is probably about ten wires in a truck that age. Starter, starter solenoid, ignition, left turn, right turn, headlamps, reverse lights?, brake lamps, maybe interior and dash lighting, horn. And only three of those actually matter if you travel during daylight hours and have a temporary or florida plate on it, and only one actually has to stay working while the truck is moving  As for tools, remember that this is a 50s Chevy... if you have 6 point wrenches and sockets in sizes 3/8" through 7/8", a jack, and two screwdrivers you can probably take the whole truck apart except for the pinion yoke nut and maybe some bits on the suspension that won't be in stock at any store along the way anyhow. SouthsideSaint said this already and he is right. My 5 ton could pull this if it was actually reliable enough but seeing as it's stranded me once and otherwise been broken for 5 of my 6 years of ownership and probably gets worse fuel economy than this truck, I'd recommend just driving the '51 instead. As for the split rims, you guys are nuts. If you really want to go full-on nuts and it has 20 or 16.5" wheels (does it?), a vast supply of milsurp rubber is available that would marginally fit. Anything from 36" to 54" diameter depending on rim size. I'd really suggest finding some modern tubeless wheels though, what lug pattern does a '51 6400 use? The old big six lug pattern? 8 lug? 10 lug? The pics look like old six-lug, but I'm not sure. That's not a very common lug pattern these days, but some cube vans and small MDTs use it still, or I think they do, it might be a different lug circle diameter. I think you're insane to consider driving that thing home any serious distance but I'll donate if you do, it's a good kind of nuts. It sounds like fun if you don't have anywhere you need to actually be in the next month or so and don't mind scrounging junkyards and parts stores every 50 miles, aka if you did this in summer 2013 when I was single and jobless with no one to answer to I would be offering to fly out and ride shotgun too.
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May 3, 2016 17:58
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ITT I learn that he'll fill the box on his dumptruck with AI Goons wanting to help. This would be the best.
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May 3, 2016 18:17
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kastein posted:As for the split rims, you guys are nuts. If you really want to go full-on nuts and it has 20 or 16.5" wheels (does it?), a vast supply of milsurp rubber is available that would marginally fit. Anything from 36" to 54" diameter depending on rim size. I'd really suggest finding some modern tubeless wheels though, what lug pattern does a '51 6400 use? The old big six lug pattern? 8 lug? 10 lug? The pics look like old six-lug, but I'm not sure. That's not a very common lug pattern these days, but some cube vans and small MDTs use it still, or I think they do, it might be a different lug circle diameter. They're 10-lug, but the front only uses 5. According to the Internet, the tires should be Dagen H fucked around with this message at 21:46 on May 3, 2016 |
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May 3, 2016 18:53
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Siochain posted:ITT I learn that he'll fill the box on his dumptruck with AI Goons wanting to help. A bed full of tool chests and blackthumbs hanging off the sides fixing things as they break. I'm loving this thread. How does one refurbish a diff on a moving truck?
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May 3, 2016 19:10
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Cakefool posted:A bed full of tool chests and blackthumbs hanging off the sides fixing things as they break. I'm loving this thread. Eternally, Shiny and Chrome!
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May 3, 2016 20:49
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Cakefool posted:A bed full of tool chests and blackthumbs hanging off the sides fixing things as they break. I'm loving this thread. Hot swappable vertically mounted diffs and an extra diff on top to transfer between them as necessary.
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May 3, 2016 21:00
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I'm the lonely Cherry Bomb.
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May 3, 2016 21:36
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Tires look brand new from here
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May 3, 2016 21:37
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