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Thank you for this. This is one of the most valuable threads on SA.
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May 2, 2016 18:00
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I'm looking to build something that might be a unicorn: small, can host a 1080 or future 1080 Ti, have lots of USB 3, and be quiet. At idle it should be silent from 18" away. For reference, my H110 plus EVGA GPU liquid cooler are not thusly silent (pump noise). Small works against big fans, which works against quiet airflow. Pump noise seems to be above my audio threshold, but maybe with a custom loop? I'm not sure what the good small cases are for this sort of thing. Budget is let's say $750-1000 for case/cooling/CPU/motherboard/RAM. I'm in the USA. I'll be doing a bunch of VM work in addition to gaming, so I'm not sure if I want 4 cores or 6.
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May 11, 2016 00:31
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Many local computer stores will assemble for a varying-reasonable fee.
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May 11, 2016 00:45
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Hmmm, a custom loop is probably not possible at that price point, especially if you want to include the video card. Here is the best I can think of: Hmm hmm. Thanks! I have an SSD and a quiet PSU, so that leaves me about $300 total headroom in my budget. Does that get me to a custom loop? (Assuming it would even be as quiet as air; I don't care about OC.) What's the general calculus on when to prefer Haswell-E over Skylake, in terms of workload? Or is Broadwell-E going to be the thing to wait on for 6-core setups? Josef bugman posted:I did find this site: http://www.pcspecialist.co.uk/intel-computers/ I don't know the UK well enough to say, sorry!
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May 11, 2016 07:44
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VulgarandStupid posted:You should watch this. Essentially, you shouldn't custom loop if you're on a budget. Thanks, that's really helpful; I'll pass on the loop, though it seems like a fun project at some point. I think 4C/8T will suffice for what I'm doing on this machine. AVeryLargeRadish posted:$300 can get you a low end loop for the CPU but it won't be very quiet because you won't have the large radiators needed to run the fans at very low speeds, also you need a big case to fit a 360 or 480 rad so your small form factor goes right out the window. I went with Skylake in the quoted build partially because of cost but also because there is only one mITX X99 motherboard out there and because X99 means i7-5XXX parts, and i7-5XXX parts mean 140W of heat to dissipate and that means noise. Perfect, thanks a lot for the explanation.
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May 11, 2016 14:21
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My desktop was damaged by movers, so I'm going to be building a new machine on their dime. My current setup is: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($439.99 @ Newegg Canada) CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($149.99 @ Newegg Canada) Motherboard: Asus MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($371.49 @ Amazon Canada) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($94.50 @ Amazon Canada) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($94.50 @ Amazon Canada) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($209.40 @ Amazon Canada) Storage: Seagate 4TB 3.5" 5900RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive ($244.72 @ NCIX) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Founders Edition Video Card ($616.99 @ Amazon Canada) Case: Nanoxia NXDS1W ATX Mid Tower Case ($278.10 @ Amazon Canada) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P2 1000W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($219.99 @ Amazon Canada) Wireless Network Adapter: Intel 7260HMWDTX1 PCI-Express x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter ($68.84 @ Amazon Canada) Total: $2788.51 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available I think I want Skylake this time, and would like a board with many USB3 ports (Vive + Rift). Is motherboard wireless good, generally? I could also look at a different case, I'm not married to the DS1; it was quiet, but huge. I'm not interested in liquid cooling for the CPU this time around. I will probably pick a non-FE 1070 or 1080, but I don't know which one -- MSI has treated me well in the past.
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Aug 9, 2016 21:48
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Phlegmish posted:So, what you posted is your current, damaged desktop, right? Is there nothing you could salvage, did they throw your computer out of a third-story window? That is my damaged desktop, yeah. I don't know what's salvageable, there was liquid involved and the case is impressively bent. I'll find out at some point in the claims process, probably after I need to replace the computer. I did have dual GPUs at one point in its lifetime. What semi-fanless modular PSU would you recommend that can carry a future 1080Ti? I have 32GB of RAM because I do a lot of VM work. What cooler would you recommend? I'm more interested in quiet than in overclocking. What motherboard would you recommend? Do I want Z if I'm not OCing? Do the Skylake-era Z boards have more difference than just the ability to OC?
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Aug 10, 2016 12:14
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Instant Grat posted:EDIT: Actually, its more efficient brother the P2 650W is basically the same price. It's essentially the same thing except Platinum efficiency instead of Gold. On top of lower power bills, this also means it'll stay fanless for longer periods of time. Yeah, I have a P2 right now and I don't think I've ever heard the fan. Thanks for the RAM info. I'll hunt for a good Z170 board.
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Aug 10, 2016 23:01
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What's a good smallish case that will have quiet airflow sufficient for a non-blower 1080 Ti (when it drops, let's say equivalent to a 980 Ti in temp), sports front USB3 ports, comes in white, has good cable management, and is good to work in? I have a single platter drive and an SSD, so I don't need much in the way of drive space. I'm coming from a DS1, and would like something less...substantial.
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Aug 12, 2016 13:42
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Instant Grat posted:What's up my Nanoxia buddy pal I think I'd rather stay ATX, but I'm building a new machine so I could go mATX if that got me a great case.
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Aug 12, 2016 14:28
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GutBomb posted:RAM doesn't really need a heat spreader anyway, right? Right.
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Aug 15, 2016 02:33
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I always underclock by 25% when I'm doing my taxes, just to be safe. if you're not worried enough to use ECC RAM, you shouldn't be worrying about a stable overclock
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Aug 16, 2016 01:04
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blah_blah posted:This is a ridiculous and unwarranted standard, especially when you consider that there are almost certainly lots of significant scientific computations being done on 'factory overclocked' GPUs. Yeah, I'd be interested in examples of such a rejection policy from a top-tier journal. Zack Ater, care to link one? Do they also require ECC and certain SMART values?
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Aug 16, 2016 01:40
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Looking for ultra-at-100fps gaming at 1440 plus VR smoothness, and ability to run 3-4 VMs at once when working. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($409.99 @ Memory Express) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: Asus Z170-DELUXE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($409.99 @ Newegg Canada) Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3400 Memory ($134.99 @ Newegg Canada) Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3400 Memory ($134.99 @ Newegg Canada) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($219.99 @ Memory Express) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 1080 8GB GAMING X 8G Video Card ($989.99 @ Memory Express) Case: be quiet! Silent Base 800 (Silver) ATX Mid Tower Case ($189.99 @ NCIX) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P2 1000W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($219.99 @ Amazon Canada) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($179.99 @ Newegg Canada) Total: $2889.91 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-08-16 12:22 EDT-0400 Questions: - anything I should know about that case? - are the MSI Gaming line still good this generation? - haven't had a Cryorig cooler before, but I hear they're nice to work with and work well. any benefit to using a be quiet! cooler in their case? - I don't see an M.2 950 EVO offering, just PRO at a significant premium. two questions from that: is M.2 actually going to be a meaningful perf gain? would I rather have whatever advances are in the 950 over the M.2 interface? - I am really bad at picking motherboards, I went with this because it had a pile of USB3 and generally seemed good. I am receptive to suggestions. Thanks for any feedback. I used to be right on top of this stuff, but have fallen behind several months on this thread, so I don't know what the herd wisdom says these days.
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Aug 16, 2016 17:27
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Smirk posted:This seems to be a common point of confusion, and understandably so. M.2 only describes the physical connector, but it supports both SATA and PCIe, with the latter being faster. Further complicating things, PCIe drives can either be AHCI or NVMe, with the latter being faster. So, just within M.2 drives, you have SATA, PCIe AHCI, and PCIe NVMe. Check out some benchmarks to decide whether the faster, more expensive drives are worth it to you. OK, that explains the pricing gap I've seen, thanks. Unless I was looking at an ITX build I don't think M.2/SATA would really be worthwhile, though I do hate drive cabling. I'll have to read benchmarks and ponder, thank you.
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Aug 16, 2016 20:54
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Col.Kiwi posted:Agree. That would be exactly the reason to use an m.2 sata drive, in a small case or to avoid cabling issues. If you dont care about the space occupied by the drive& cabling, normal 2.5" sata is just simpler than m.2 sata for the same performance. m.2 PCI is for sure faster but in a normal desktop system you're unlikely to be able to notice at all. Yeah, I was looking into it because I found that compiling big things (Firefox or Chrome, f.e.) would sometimes be I/O bound, but I probably don't care enough to pay double per GB and be limited to 500.
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Aug 16, 2016 22:27
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The Iron Rose posted:750 watts is actually super inefficient since you're wasting electricity and efficiency below 50% utilization, which your machine almost assuredly is. I thought, though, that for semi-fanless PSUs the higher the rating the more load they could handle and stay fanless. Is that not the case?
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Aug 17, 2016 16:14
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a retard posted:bad bedbug problem I'd say you want the i5, but mostly I want to congratulate you on a thread first.
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Aug 18, 2016 00:06
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Looking for feedback on 3 specific parts for my build: CPU Cooler: be quiet! PURE ROCK 51.7 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($49.98 @ NCIX) Motherboard: Asus Z170-DELUXE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($409.99 @ Newegg Canada) Case: be quiet! Silent Base 800 (Silver) ATX Mid Tower Case ($189.99 @ NCIX) Anyone have thoughts on what to watch out for there, or what I might want to get instead? Looking to build a quiet machine with many USB3 pieces and maybe wifi, in a not-huge but decent-airflow case that I won't hate building in. E: actually, the cooler isn't in stock in Canada, so I'm taking suggestions for cooling a non-OC'd 6700K. Subjunctive fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Aug 18, 2016 |
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Aug 18, 2016 16:25
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LogicalFallacy posted:Have you thought about going for a mobo without built-in WiFi and adding a wireless card? Looking around, you can save $100+ even if you go with one of the more expensive cards, just by how much cheaper you can get the motherboard. I didn't find another board that had as much USB 3/3.1 and M.2x4 even without the wifi, when I was looking. If there is one that's "this minus wifi" I'm definitely game.
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Aug 18, 2016 17:28
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Khablam posted:Or AIO liquid cooling to remove the block-of-metal problem. My liquid CPU cooler was broken during my recent move (on a moving truck, not shipped), they aren't super robust.
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Aug 20, 2016 00:48
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vanbags posted:I also play everything with v-sync disabled because I've heard it increases input lag. Do you notice a difference?
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Aug 21, 2016 21:37
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Gaming at 4K will go way past $1600, and not fit ITX, assuming you want high settings at 60 fps. 1440 gaming with a good gsync display can hit $1600, IMO.
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Aug 22, 2016 03:13
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Let him buy you lunch.
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Aug 24, 2016 22:25
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Jose posted:I think that my PC has 2 4gb sticks of ram in it, can't check as I'm currently at work, and the 8gb ram i ordered is a single stick. Is that going to matter at all? Won't be optimal, but as long as you have a slot free it should work fine.
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Aug 25, 2016 12:31
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Dick Trauma posted:I'm being asked to spec out a system for developing Unreal/Unity engine games. I don't have any experience with this but from what I've read it doesn't seem to be much different from any other "power" rig. If anyone has experience and can make suggestions I'd appreciate it. I have no budget info but the person requesting has already tossed around very large numbers so a $3000+ system probably won't shock anyone. You want 32GB of RAM, and you want hexacore for performance when the editor and game are both running. If your budget permits, definitely go ultrawide. More than any other development I've done, Unity and Unreal made me crave more pixels.
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Aug 26, 2016 16:53
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When am I going to remember to check RAM height before ordering? My 25th build? 30th?
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Aug 26, 2016 23:00
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beepsandboops posted:Giant cooler, RAM sticks, or both? Yeah. Luckily the megacooler is the D15, so I can just slide the one fan up a bit, but I realize how bullet-dodgey that was.
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Aug 27, 2016 02:07
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NihilCredo posted:If you're not overclocking, you don't want a 6600K (just a regular 6600) The 6600K is clocked higher, even if you don't OC it.
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Aug 28, 2016 03:33
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Oneiros posted:Is this a Australia / non U.S. thing because the 6600K is either nearly identically priced or actually cheaper than the 6600 sans "K" on Amazon and Newegg? K is $25 more expensive than non-K in Australia, per pcpartpicker.
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Aug 28, 2016 04:53
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RandomPauI posted:It'll take me a bit to save enough for a new entry level gaming computer. Would it make any sense to buy parts piecemeal? No, it pretty much never does unless you find a serious sale. Computer parts fall in price, but don't rise, and new parts emerge that can provide better value.
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Aug 29, 2016 00:33
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I just built a new machine from scratch (the wound from the cooler is still healing), and I'm having some trouble with it. The first is that my USB2 devices (Razer mouse, WASD keyboard, Audioengine speakers) don't work in the USB3.1 ports, in BIOS or Windows. There are two USB2 ports, which work fine, but I have more than 2 devices and that stuff should be backwards compatible anyway, right? The motherboard is an ASUS Z170-DELUXE. The second is that when it's rebooted or sleeps, it doesn't come back up. The power light is lit, but pressing it doesn't wake. I have to long-press to shut it down, then boot it back up. When it's stuck the numlock key doesn't respond, so it's pretty far down. After I boot it from a lockup state, the motherboard's "surge detection" trips, which I'm pretty sure is spurious *unless* my power supply is defective. It's an EVGA P2 1000W. I've read this may be fixed by a BIOS update, which I will attempt shortly. Machine is basically:
Cranking it under Heaven doesn't trip anything, and temps stay fine.
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Sep 3, 2016 19:11
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VelociBacon posted:This all strikes me as more of a mobo issue than anything else. I'd try updating the BIOS first and see. I left it unattended performing the BIOS upgrade (using the in-UEFI tool), and when I came back it was hung with the fans at max. It no longer appears to boot. I will investigate reset options. The release note for this bios was "Improve system stability", delightfully.
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Sep 3, 2016 20:37
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VelociBacon posted:At this point I'd remove the GPU and disconnect any non boot drives to eliminate possible culprits and also safeguard those components if the mobo is really hosed somehow. Do you actually have 4 PCI-e SSD drives? The RAM clicked; I'm definitely not new to building. I have one "PCIe x4"-type M.2 SSD. It's the only drive, other than a USB key. I'll look for the reset button when I get back to the machine, thank you!
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Sep 3, 2016 20:50
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VelociBacon posted:Sorry - I wasn't sure your experience. No offense taken!
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Sep 4, 2016 01:41
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VelociBacon posted:At this point I'd remove the GPU and disconnect any non boot drives to eliminate possible culprits and also safeguard those components if the mobo is really hosed somehow. Do you actually have 4 PCI-e SSD drives? I used the reset button with the same BIOS, and reset the CMOS, and got it booting (the filename needed is only documented via trial and error accounts on forums?). My DX:MD performance issues are resolved, at least. My devices continue to not work in the USB3 plugs, and sleep/reboot remain a death sentence. I wonder if wake-on-USB isn't set correctly or something. I couldn't find anything to tweak in the BIOS, and the keyboard/mouse don't stay lit. When I force it to power down after a failed sleep the next boot always says that overclocking failed -- I'm not overclocking. Frustrating.
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Sep 4, 2016 21:14
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VelociBacon posted:I'd try updating that BIOS again, or contact your retailer and replace the mobo. I don't want you to be right, but I think you're right.
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Sep 4, 2016 21:52
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mustbetv posted:Now, with this new system, I'd like to use that old 840 EVO if I can. The question is, can I? I know it had a reputation of being problematic as heck, but is it overcome-able? In a best-case scenario I clone my 120 SSD install to the 1tb and use it as a boot drive and for programs. If that's not viable, I just stick the 840 in the case and use it as temp space for my primary use of scanning documents and processing them for subsequent permanent storage on different drives. But is it going to give me fits if I even try and use it either way? I was using an 840 EVO as my primary drive until a month ago, and it'll be going in another machine when I build it. Update the firmware and straight on until daylight.
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Sep 13, 2016 22:44
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