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fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

Looking at the manual for the Asus Z170 ~*Pro Gaming*~, all of the DDR4 3200 configurations they qualified were 4x4GB. They seem to favor this configuration over 2x8GB in nearly all the ram sets they list as being qualified. The marketing page also mentions: "Second-generation ASUS T-Topology enables DDR4 memory overclocking to reach new heights: over DDR4-3400MHz with all memory slots populated."

So should you get 4x4 instead of 2x8 when overclocking RAM? I don't have a mobo or ram yet

This thread also has me scared and I'm probably being stupid even overclocking RAM: http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=149795&page=12

e: also read this on the asrock extreme4 manual, where they go the other way:

quote:

*3866+(OC) memory frequency can only be achieved when a single memory module is installed (Single channel memory).
Please refer to Memory Support List on ASRock's website for more information.

fozzy fosbourne fucked around with this message at 17:11 on May 3, 2016

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fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

HMS Boromir posted:

They were going the same way with the "all memory slots populated" comment - they were advertising the speeds you can get in the worst case overclocking scenario.

The conventional wisdom is that QVLs are more like a suggestion and any RAM is supposed to work with any motherboard that has the right slot on it. I took a quick look on PCPartPicker's completed builds though and people seem to have used Corsair 3200 and 3000 MHz 2x8 sets with no issue, so you could go for one of those if you want the peace of mind.

Yeah, I eventually deduced that after looking at the ASUS supported memory table some more. They have fields that say whether they support 2 or 4 dimm configs and some of the cards only support 2 dimm configs, so it looks like they were probably qualifying 4x4GB as a worst case scenario like you pointed out.

fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

fozzy fosbourne posted:

Yeah, I eventually deduced that after looking at the ASUS supported memory table some more. They have fields that say whether they support 2 or 4 dimm configs and some of the cards only support 2 dimm configs, so it looks like they were probably qualifying 4x4GB as a worst case scenario like you pointed out.

Actually, I guess there is some ASUS specific tech called "T-Topology" that applies to 4 dimm configs? Found a big thread but haven't read about it much yet: http://www.overclock.net/t/1241807/asus-t-topology

fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

Found this post on overclock.net from the Asus rep that I wanted to share:

Raja@ASUS posted:

ASUS North America - ASUS Z170 Motherboards Q&A Thread

I know we are the only vendor able to "truly" work at 3733 so far - who knows. We use T-Topology, so 4 DIMM configs are best suited to running on our boards. To be honest tho, anything past DDR4-3400 requires slack timings, so is not worth running on a 24/7 system. One of those things, DRAM suppliers going crazy to get high frequency kits into the marketplace, hoping that the unwitting make a purchase

http://www.overclock.net/t/1568154/asus-north-america-asus-z170-motherboards-q-a-thread/90

fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

I think the Noctua has a mount brace thing that makes it easy to take the heatsink tower off without having to reapply thermal paste and such

fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

AVeryLargeRadish posted:

Uhhh, no, I'm not sure how such a thing would even work. What it does have is a mounting system that lets you remove the tower without needing to remove the backplate and such which is pretty nice.

You're right, my bad. It's just the backplate, and yeah, in hindsight it would probably be practically impossible to keep the same cooling with a modular chip-to-heatsink interface

fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

If I have a Fractal Design Define R5 and a couple 140mm noctua fans from the newegg sale recently, how would you recommend configuring them in the case? Probably going to overclock a 6700k and 1080.

I've done a little research, but it all seems like bro-science with people rationalizing negative, positive, and equal pressure. If there's something credible with some empirical results I could look at, that would be cool.

fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

I bought a Noctua D15S. This thing blots out the sky and puts even the original xbox and gaben to shame. It's screaming bad idea to me since it's like attaching a dumbell to the side of the motherboard, but I got a good deal and it has good reviews :cheers:

fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

nuclear_cheetos posted:

Finished my build and installed Spanish Windows 10.

Hilarious bottleneck with the 660ti from a friend until I get a 1070/1080 but it runs most games fine at 1080p.

My only concern is GPU heat since the PSU is directly beneath it, as illustrated:



Seems to temp OK under normal load and of course the CPU is fine, but it seems to me I may have to get a smaller cooler if the 1070/1080 has a large amount of cooling on it.

Although I suppose I could always get a larger case.

Is that the d15? Have you looked at the d15s? It's offset a bit from the gpu. Also, are you going to remove this drive trays?

E: also are your cpu fans pointing away from the exhaust case fan?

fozzy fosbourne fucked around with this message at 01:34 on May 22, 2016

fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

I've read some reports of overdrive calibration not being very good when some panels are overclocked. Might be good to do some research on a particular model just in case. For example, http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/content/asus_rog_swift_pg279q.htm#overclocking. I personally wouldn't buy a panel that I need to overclock to get to the refresh rate I want without some testing like in that article I linked that gave me confidence it's not going to look like a blurry piece of crap* at that refresh rate. Luckily, that panel is pretty sweet at 144hz! I have the XB271HU and it's godlike imo

*for the record, that model doesn't become a blurry piece of crap at 160hz, it's just slightly worse than 144. But I'd be wary of monitors that may not have been very tightly tuned in terms of overdrive to begin with

fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

Moola posted:

can anyone recommend any cheap quiet cases?

I have an Antec case atm and it vibrates enough to annoy me.


xgalaxy posted:

I love my Fractal R5. I think it is the best case I've ever bought.

fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

I had asked here about experiments in regards to case airflow and found this article interesting http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/1

fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

I think the whole "humans can't perceive frequencies higher than 60hz" thing is a myth based on some poor conclusions from some studies done before the right equipment existed. It's immediately apparent just in the Windows/OS X UI alone when you go from 60 to 144hz, when moving your cursor or dragging a window. And you can still see sample and hold motion blur at that 144hz frequency, albeit reduced, that begins to disappear when you turn on backlight strobing (but not uniformly across the whole panel). This suggests there is still a lot of headroom for sample and hold displays before you no longer perceive blur when you do something like move your cursor across the screen. I've seen MAbrash and other folks speculate that for sample and hold displays, the threshold where we wouldn't perceive sample and hold blur would be somewhere between 300hz and 1000hz.

Remember, 60hz is kind of like qwerty for keyboards*; it wasn't picked because it's some number that happens to be really compatible with human physiology. It was because of 60hz power generators back in the 30s, at least according to this research paper published by Microsoft:

O.G. Microsoft posted:

The origins of the 60Hz (and 50Hz) field rate
The good thing about the existing field rate of 60Hz (and to a lesser extent, the 50Hz European standard) is that it allows the analog transmission bandwidth to be kept to a minimum and yet is not so low that the picture would fail to do a reasonable job of portraying motion or be seen as excessively flickery when viewed on the small screened TVs envisioned back in the 1930s when the TV system was being designed. Ideally it would have been good to have a higher field rate (above 70Hz), but analog transmission bandwidth was (and still is) too expensive to make this practical.
When TV was being designed in the 1930s and electronics was in its infancy, it was difficult to design oscillator and power regulation circuits, so it was necessary to make the TV field rate the same as the power rate. This power frequency had been arrived at back in the Victorian era, because it was an efficient rate to run a power generation turbine and worked well for the transformers necessary for power distribution. From the 1970s onward, with the advent of modern electronics, the requirement to base TV designs on the power frequency went away, but of course the TV standard was well established by then.
Dn642112.IC458332(en-us,VS.85).gif
60Hz generators, so 60Hz video.
https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/hardware/dn642112

Maybe it becomes more difficult to perceive with non-sample and hold displays, like CRT, but then the problem was perceptible flicker at lower frequencies.


* not the myth about qwerty being designed to slow typewriters, but rather the recent belief that it's just a best guess at a layout from feedback from telegraph operators

fozzy fosbourne fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Jun 6, 2016

fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

Seems like you should look into xmp profiles for your ram before screwing around with manually entered values, especially if you know nothing yet. I'd Google xmp and the model of your mobo and see what pops up

fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

I have the noctua d15s and some g.skill tridentz. That noctua heat sink is cut a little higher to accommodate ram

fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

I don't have VR, but when I was downloading drivers for my asus z170 pro gaming they had beta usb drivers that were supposedly for rift compatibility.

fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

AVeryLargeRadish posted:

If you can fit them M-Audio AV42 or AV32 should be really good, I have some older M-Audio Studiophile AV 40s and they are very, very good for the price, these are the newer versions of my speakers so they should be very good. They are pretty large, mine are 6.5" deep, 6" wide and 9" tall, but they really need the size to produce good sound so it's worth it, IMO.

FWIW, the amazon reviews for the AV42 appear to consider it a big step down from your AV 40s https://www.amazon.com/M-Audio-AV42-20-Watt-Compact-Speakers/dp/B00X741TB0

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fozzy fosbourne
Apr 21, 2010

Zero The Hero posted:

Can anyone tell me the difference between these "different" series of ram?

I can't remember why, but I remember reading something that made me favor trident back when I built my system. I think it was the brand they used for their highest spec stuff so I guess I speculated that it might have a marginally higher tolerance or something, but I honestly don't remember. But my advice would be to get the trident in a tie breaker because I trust fosbourne research from 2 months ago that he doesn't remember.

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