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I'm trying to build a budget gaming PC with a budget around $600-$700. Before I go any further I have to say I haven't put a computer together since highschool (2002) and the last new computer game I bought was Freelancer (2003). So basically I have no idea what I'm doing anymore and looking at parts makes me want to curl up into the fetal position and cry. With that said I found this parts list in a Lifehacker article from 2015. Country: US PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-4590 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ SuperBiiz) Motherboard: MSI H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($43.88 @ OutletPC) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($37.88 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($46.98 @ OutletPC) Video Card: XFX Radeon R9 280 3GB Black Edition Double Dissipation Video Card ($208.98 @ Newegg) Case: Cooler Master N200 MicroATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ Micro Center) Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ Newegg) Total: $612.69 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-10 21:55 EDT-0400 I'm guessing this parts list could use some updating so any suggestions are welcome. I do know I want at least an Intel i5, 8 gigs of RAM, and wifi. I also need a full set of peripherals but I'll most likely find some cheap Logitech stuff for the mouse and keyboard. The monitor has been the biggest sticking point for me as it sends my budget soaring. I'll probably just hook the computer to my tv for the time being. It's either this or I buy an Alienware Alpha. I just want to play some goddamn computer games again. 
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May 11, 2016 02:54
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:Here is a better parts list: So I did some shopping around and some of the the cheaper prices for the items selected are not in stock by those vendors. Plus with all the peripherals and Windows 10 I have to buy it's putting me into the $900-$1000 range. So I've been doing even more shopping and found two prebuilt iBUYPOWERs to consider. They basically have everything I could ask for. There's a Revolt 2 from Newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227652 Or this desktop from Best Buy: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/ibuypow...cat143400050013 The Revolt 2 is a little bit cheaper and seems to have a better cpu but I think its graphics card is weaker than the Best Buy option. The Best Buy option also has the benefit of having a optical drive and bigger case to upgrade/work in. I'm not really sure how much difference there is between the two. I'm sticking with the monitor you suggested plus these Logitech speakers. http://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitec...Id=abcat0515039 Any builds come close to what those have for the money? HP Artsandcrafts fucked around with this message at 07:48 on May 12, 2016 |
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May 12, 2016 07:32
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My bid for buying a starting computer to upgrade later turned out to be a bad idea. The iBuypower basically has no room for upgrades and the stock liquid cooler didn't work so well. So I'm taking the guts out of it and putting them into a Thermaltake Core V21. Hopefully this will work: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ NCIX US) CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($59.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: MSI Z170I GAMING PRO AC Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($182.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($71.88 @ OutletPC) Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($42.99 @ NCIX US) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.49 @ OutletPC) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($459.99 @ Newegg) Case: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($39.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA 1000W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($119.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($83.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $1309.18 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-29 20:03 EDT-0400
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Jul 30, 2016 01:11
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pakman posted:I forgot to actually post the parts list where I changed things: You can get 16GB DDR4 3000 for less. https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LhgPxr/gskill-memory-f43000c15d16gvrb
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Aug 25, 2016 03:23
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Is anyone familiar with the CaseLabs Bullet BH2 Mini ITX case? I can't find any full builds of the thing for reference.
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Aug 30, 2016 16:08
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limaCAT posted:Thanks man, just a few questions. The Rosewill N900 looks like a good buy. The Asus AC1300 or AC1900 are worth a look too if you want something a little fancier.
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Aug 31, 2016 14:00
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ZZT the Fifth posted:For what it's worth, my GTX970 is the MSI one, so I don't know if that'd be a bit big for the mATX board... It's not really the board size you have to worry about. I have a mini itx board with a full size gpu (10.51 inches). It only really becomes an issue when you try to fit it small form factor cases.
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Sep 3, 2016 13:43
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In your guys opinion would it be worth it to upgrade from an Intel Core i5-6500 to a 6600K? I basically have everything I need to overclock it. I think the Corsair H60 I currently have is probably fine for the job? If not I've already budgeted the money for a bigger cooler. One of the upsides I'm absolutely sure of is that I can use the old cpu for a future computer build for my parents. The other planned upgrade is moving the system into a slimmer case. Right now I have a Thermaltake Core V21 which is really a great case but one little problem I ran into. In order to upgrade to a bigger and better desk I have to have a new desk. I'm pretty sure when I got my desk CRT monitors were still a thing and they probably weren't thinking about wide screen monitors when they put a shelf on either side the monitor riser thing. So now I'm looking for a new desk and let me tell you there aren't many options for putting a 12.60 inch wide case on a desk without buying a humongous desk that I don't have space for. I really don't want to put it on the floor either. While I don't have deep pile carpet, the feet on the case aren't very tall so I'm still worried about choking out the psu. So my short list of case candidates are: Corsair 350D, NZXT Manta, Fractal Design Arc Mini. If you have any other suggestions let me know. I have a Mini ITX motherboard but everything else is fullsize so I want to stay in that MITX to MAXT case size range. My current build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00) CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00) Motherboard: MSI Z170I GAMING PRO AC Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $0.00) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $0.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-09 20:19 EDT-0400
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Sep 10, 2016 01:20
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becoming posted:You'll almost certainly be able to squeeze enough out of an overclock that you'll eventually notice a difference, yeah. I say "eventually" because there will come a time when the extra ~1.3GHz will matter. If all you're doing today is Notepad, then a 3.2GHz 6500 and a 4.5GHz 6600K are gonna feel about the time, but by the time Torchlight IV rolls around... I'm playing AAA games so all the horsepower I can get is appreciated. I really don't want to buy another PSU. I just sold my way overkill 1000w PSU and bought a slightly less overkill 750w. Plus some custom cables to go with it. I've looked at some other smaller options like the Riotoro CR280 but it seems a bit iffy on build quality and the storage layout looks like crap. The M1 and its ilk all look like such hassles to build in too. I don't want to engineer all my parts into a case, you know? I don't need to make my computer portable, just a little narrower. As for budget I'd like to keep it below $200 but if there are any outstanding options I'm willing to entertain them.
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Sep 10, 2016 14:09
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becoming posted:I haven't personally built in one (yet), but most folks seem to say that it's pretty pleasant to build in, for the most part. Still, I get what you're saying: a $215 (shipped) case suddenly becomes a bit more expensive when you need to sell your current PSU for a loss and buy an SFX one. I think I forgot a couple of requisites. A windowed panel and airflow. The Ethoo Evolv has the window but apparently lacking in airflow. And build quality for that matter. I'm honestly a bit disappointed at the lack of quality options in smaller cases right now. It's mostly either really cheap or some expensive case on a waiting list. There aren't many in between options for solidly built cases that look interesting. poo poo, there's hardly any interesting choices really.
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Sep 11, 2016 14:14
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Phlegmish posted:I couldn't find a specific thread for this, so I figured I'd ask here - can anyone recommend a decent, widely available set of PC speakers? Right now I still have these YS-300 speakers from the 1990's (at least that's what I'm assuming, I couldn't even find a manufacturing date on Google, just people selling them on ebay). Amazingly, they still work fine, except every now and then I start getting static and have to jiggle the cable to get it right again. I have these: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bv38TW/logitech-speakers-980000800 Probably the best speakers you can get for the $20 -$30 range.
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Sep 13, 2016 14:54
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jonathan posted:I don't want to make a circus of RGB lighting in my case, but I think it would be handy to use the minimal lighting to display the temperature of the cpu/gpu. NZXT Hue+ https://www.nzxt.com/products/hue-plus And I just checked on my keyboard, you can totally do brown light. It's just not very bright.
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Mar 3, 2017 19:34
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What country are you in? - USA What are you using the system for? - Gaming, mostly AAA games set high and fast as possible. Budget - $1000 Gaming/monitors - Acer X34 Predator I'm looking to upgrade/practically rebuild my current gaming pc and I just wanted the thread's opinion on some things before I pull the trigger. Current build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00) CPU Cooler: Corsair - H60 54.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler (Purchased For $0.00) Motherboard: MSI - Z170I GAMING PRO AC Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard (Purchased For $0.00) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Kingston - SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Video Card: Zotac - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB AMP Edition Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Fractal Design - Arc Mini R2 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (Purchased For $0.00) Case Fan: Corsair - Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition (2-Pack) 37.9 CFM 120mm Fans (Purchased For $0.00) Monitor: Acer - Predator X34 34.0" 3440x1440 100Hz Monitor (Purchased For $0.00) Keyboard: Logitech - G810 Orion Spectrum RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard (Purchased For $0.00) Mouse: Logitech - G502 Wired Optical Mouse (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $0.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-18 14:16 EDT-0400 Potential Builds: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($333.98 @ NCIX US) CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X52 Liquid CPU Cooler ($149.99 @ NZXT) Motherboard: Asus - STRIX Z270G Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($199.00 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Kingston - SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Video Card: Zotac - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB AMP Edition Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Phanteks - Enthoo Evolv TG (Black) MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($137.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $975.94 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-18 14:17 EDT-0400 PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($333.98 @ NCIX US) CPU Cooler: NZXT - Kraken X62 Liquid CPU Cooler ($159.99 @ B&H) Motherboard: Asus - STRIX Z270-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($198.89 @ B&H) Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($154.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Kingston - SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Video Card: Zotac - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB AMP Edition Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case ($95.49 @ Jet) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $943.34 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-18 14:18 EDT-0400 Notes: I picked those two Asus boards for two reasons. I have to wifi to connect to the internet and they're color neutral. I don't know of any other M-ATX or ATX motherboards that have that combination of features. I know could get a regular board and wifi adapter but aesthetics is important to this build. Would I be better off sticking with my current CPU or is the i7 a huge leap in performance? I kind of feel like it's necessary now having played games like Forza Horizon 3 that are pretty CPU intensive. (I am planning on still using the i5 on a HTPC build later on but I still have a locked i5 laying around.) Thoughts on the cases? I'm liking the tempered glass look as you can tell. The NZXT 340 Elite is also in consideration.
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May 18, 2017 19:36
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Lockback posted:You will see probably almost no gaming improvement for most games, although Forza 3 would be one where you might see some. Are you overclocking your 6600k? That is where you'd want to start. Yeah, I wouldn't do it just for that game but I've definitely noticed a lot of ports have the same problem as Horizon 3, GTAV being one of them. I do a fairly mild overclock on my cpu, just to 4.0 GHz but I can tell the difference from the stock setting. The Corsair H60 isn't the greatest cooler in the world even with the push/pull configuration I have it in. I'm not sure if I'm comfortable with pushing it harder than what I am already.
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May 18, 2017 23:13
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Khablam posted:If you really really think the difference between hyper-threading and not matters, just buy the i7 and stick it in your current machine. You know I haven't actually played GTAV since I got the 1080 ti a few weeks ago.  The only thing that's really not working well in my build right now is the motherboard. The XMP doesn't work at all and it started posting slower than normal recently. I fully acknowledge I'm going full retard on this build. Basically if I get a 7700k it's no more upgrades for the foreseeable future. A lot of it is because I want something that looks better. It's not like I'm throwing everything away either. I still plan on building a htpc/spare computer with everything I have left over.
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May 19, 2017 03:55
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Please don't do a $1000 total system upgrade from a 6600K to a 7700K - if anything, your Z170 will run the 7700K with a BIOS update, you just lose out on 4 PCIe lanes and the questionable value of Optane. And you'll save $700 that you could theoretically still use to buy a decently-sized 960 EVO to augment your current SSD crop (saw you already have a 1080Ti) if a grand is truly burning a hole in your pocket. It's the boot drive. My PC started it's life as an iBuypower Revolt 2 before I took it's guts out and put it into a new case. I've looked into buying a new ssd for a boot drive but it looks tedious as hell to get it up and running?
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May 19, 2017 05:06
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Cross posting this from The SFF and Mini-ITX thread: So I'm looking to build a secondary pc and I wanted to keep it on the small side. I have most the parts picked out already so the only real question I have is which case to buy. The three goals I have for this build is keeping it entirely air cooled, try out Noctua fans, and use a more premium case. Here's the parts list https://pcpartpicker.com/list/J6bq2R . My first and safest choice is the Caselabs Bullet BH2. Keeping it cool should be a breeze and I have actually found it cheaper than what they have it listed for on Amazon. The next is the Ncase M1 and honestly this one scares me a bit. Keeping parts cool looks like a loving chore and the graphics card I'd like to use isn't ideal. I do have a little GTX 950 I can throw in but I'd probably replace it if I can get my 1070 sold. Either way I'd use the bottom fan mounts. And it looks like I'll need at least five or six fans for this build. Even with fan splitters I think it's going to to be close. Last is the Dan A4-SFX v2, they're available on Kickstarter again. It actually looks like a much more straight forward build than the M1. I'd just have to substitute the NH-U9S for a Noctua NH-L9i. Are there any other cases I should look at?
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Jun 9, 2017 19:09
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These are completely hypothetical builds that I have no intention of actually doing. More of a thought experiment. This is my attempt at a (hopefully) passively cooled silent gaming system. Build 1 PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $0.00) CPU Cooler: Thermalright - Le Grand Macho Fanless CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI - H110M ECO Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($44.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial - 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg) Storage: PNY - CS1311 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($52.99 @ Best Buy) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Palit - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB KalmX Video Card ($176.00) Case: Thermaltake - Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case (Purchased For $0.00) Power Supply: SeaSonic - X Series Fanless 460W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular Fanless ATX Power Supply ($109.90 @ B&H) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($92.99 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Noctua - NF-A20 PWM 86.5 CFM 200mm Fan ($29.95 @ Amazon) Total: $686.78 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-16 00:50 EDT-0400 Build 2 PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Pentium G4560 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor ($74.89 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: Thermalright - Le Grand Macho Fanless CPU Cooler ($69.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI - B250M PRO-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($65.99 @ B&H) Memory: Crucial - 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($68.49 @ Adorama) Storage: PNY - CS1311 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($52.99 @ Best Buy) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Palit - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB KalmX Video Card ($176.00) Case: Thermaltake - Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($34.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic - X Series Fanless 460W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular Fanless ATX Power Supply ($109.90 @ B&H) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($92.99 @ Amazon) Case Fan: Scythe - Slipstream 92.0 CFM 140mm Fan ($9.99 @ Newegg Marketplace) Total: $806.21 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-06-16 01:38 EDT-0400 A few notes: The first build includes parts I already own but for everyone else it's over $900. Not exactly a budget build. I still think the Thermaltake case is a good choice for this idea. It's essentially a huge vented box with plenty of head room for giant heat sinks. I also realize the addition of the fan means this isn't entirely passively cooled, it's there mostly for insurance. However the brand new (like just came out after Computex?) Noctua fan is currently the only 200mm PWM fan. It can run from 10.7 - 18.1 dbA at 350 - 800 RPM. The stock fan is a molex powered fossil. You could take off the front fan all together and use a 140mm fan on the heat sink. You'll just have to keep the speed down for maximum quietness. Finally the PSU. Seasonic makes a 400w version but the 460w is cheaper. What do you guys think? HP Artsandcrafts fucked around with this message at 06:38 on Jun 16, 2017 |
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Jun 16, 2017 06:36
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BIG HEADLINE posted:That this is a far better value for the money: http://www.microcenter.com/product/474127/G221_Desktop_Computer Well, duh.  I just want to see if anyone can make a dead silent, passively cooled gaming computer without resorting to spending obscene amounts of money. Like without $200 plus specialty cases. Or how much you can dial it back and still play something like Battlefield 1?
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Jun 16, 2017 07:30
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I've been looking to switching over to air for my main computer (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Y9q74q quick note I haven't installed the Corsair fans yet) and I'm having trouble figuring out exactly what to get. As it stands right now I don't seem to have any head room for overclocking. I haven't touched it and it can hit 80°C under gaming loads. This particular case is supposedly has pretty good front to back airflow but the top vents are rather restrictive so the hope is an air cooler will bring temps down. The biggest problem is going to be finding a beefy enough cooler that doesn't also block the first pci-e slot of my motherboard. Like the only big Noctua cooler I could use is the D15S. I'd probably replace the fan it comes with too with a couple of 120mm 2000rpm Noctua fans I already have in my HTPC. But I don't know how well that would work with the fans not covering the whole heat sink. I'd really rather use a thick 120mm air cooler that doesn't block my RAM or comes so close to my GPU. It doesn't even have to come with good fans, like I said I have better ones at my disposal. Failing that I'm looking at a new case or delidding. And delidding gives me anxiety just thinking about it. I'd rather buy one from Silicon Lottery but I don't think they sell 7700K's. I know sending it in is an option but I don't really feel comfortable with that either.
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Jun 10, 2018 02:23
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Wow, ignore me I need to go to bed.
HP Artsandcrafts fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Jun 17, 2018 |
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Jun 17, 2018 16:54
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I saw something really weird at a Walmart today. They had a Cyberpower pc on display with a Core i7 badge and the stock Intel cooler was clearly visible  Even in the system settings said it had an 8700. What the gently caress is going on? It might have really said B360 and if so I'd fire the graphic artist who made that font. HP Artsandcrafts fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Jun 22, 2018 |
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Jun 22, 2018 02:54
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BIG HEADLINE posted:If someone's buying a Cyberpower PC at Walmart, they either don't care about the chipset or they're cashing in a ton of giftcards. It's almost definitely a typo, and it was a B360 chipset. Like the first thing I did after I first posted was to check PCPP and I totally forgot that a B series existed for Intel. I just remembered H and Z. And speaking of PCPP I tried to build a computer the same spec and with about the same parts I saw at Walmart and it came out $200 less. That's even with the crazy GPU prices. I probably could have dropped it down further if I shopped around some more. Seriously people, don't buy pre builts.
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Jun 22, 2018 04:21
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Pash posted:I had not really thought about that too much. I'm not overclocking or anything... Basically what you have listed now is totally fine for a high refresh rate 1080p monitor. If you want to go higher (1440p, 4k) and you care about playing AAA games on Ultra at those resolutions you'll want a beefier graphics card than you have selected. A little bit faster memory (DDR4-3000 should be enough) wouldn't hurt either if you can spare the cash.
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Jul 10, 2018 19:13
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