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Watermelon Daiquiri posted:So I guess I'll try one more time: NAS/servers might not be a forte of anyone in here, so that's probably why you haven't got any replies yet. In any case there is a NAS/Server thread thread if you don't get the help your looking for in here. I'll throw in my two cents anyhow, but you can install the NAS's OS on a USB stick, you shouldn't need to get an SSD. And if all you are doing is serving media to a HTPC/WDTV/Smart TV or Blu-ray with MKV support, then there will be no actual encoding happening, and you can go with pretty much the cheapest CPU/motherboard (with the SATA ports you need) you can get your hands on. If you are only going to encode one stream though, that Pentium will be more than enough, in fact it could probably handle two 1080p streams.
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May 2, 2016 23:12
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Your Loyal Vizier posted:Haha, drat. With one of these; https://www.amazon.com/GearGrip-Gea...ywords=geargrip Even thread favourite, the Fractal R5, is probably LANable.
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Jul 20, 2016 23:43
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modeski posted:Would love some constructive feedback on this proposed build which I am very close to buying. It's a few hundred more $ than I have saved at the moment, but what's a few hundred on the credit card... Note that I'm in Australia, so below prices are in AUD. Quite a few retailers are doing a 20% off deal on eBay au. I'm a bit too lazy to provide specific part links right now, but scroll to the bottom of that page and check out a few of the electronics retailers. eBay stores are notorious for raising their prices during 20% off promotions, but if you're planning on buying now/soon, it could be worthwhile taking a look.
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Aug 25, 2016 10:31
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Aesculus posted:
To add to this, the i5-6600K is US$220 on Amazon, which works out to AUD$300 including shipping. The cheapest Aussie seller I could find was Kogan($317.68 + delivery on main site/$326.68 delivered on their eBay store). I should probably say "Aussie", as they deal in grey imports so you're probably in the same boat warranty wise and such. Basically, if you're going Amazon 1070 you my as well get the i5-6600K from there while you're at it too.
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Aug 28, 2016 22:42
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DO NOT BUY A GTX 1070 FROM ANYWHERE IN AUSTRALIA
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Looks like supply, and therefore prices have stabilised. Those prices are quite a surprise to me, as even a week or two ago that would have cost probably $100 more. That's good news for Aussies, though keep in mind in Amazon's last sale you could snag that one you linked for AUD$565, so you can still save if you keep an eye out for sales. $40 for shipping seems steep though, according to this OzBargain thread (https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/259147) shipping for that model during the last sale was US$13.96. Kintamarama fucked around with this message at 11:20 on Aug 29, 2016 |
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Aug 29, 2016 11:18
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Here's a few suggestions for mATX cases; (Edit) Corsair 88r Silverstone PS07/08/09/TJ-08e Nanoxia DS4 Jonsbo UMX/RM3 These are traditional tower shapes, and reasonably small. I personally have the TJ-08e, and can vouch for its quality, the PS07 is the same internal layout but with 2x120mm fans in the front instead of 1x180mm, and it's the cheaper of the two. Another reason I like the TJ-08e is it has clearance for 165mm of cooler, so you can put a pretty premium cooler in there (I have a Noctua NH-U14S in mine). Kintamarama fucked around with this message at 10:27 on Sep 1, 2016 |
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Sep 1, 2016 10:22
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Organza Quiz posted:A few months back I built a new desktop based on advice from the people here and it's been working out great, so thanks for that. At the time I didn't buy a graphics card because I didn't have enough need of one to spend the extra $ all at once but now I'm starting to want to play games that need it (Obduction in particular at the moment) so I'm looking for advice on what to get. I don't want to spend more than $150 on it since I'm really just looking for something that will let me play games without graphics errors/crashes rather than something that will display every single leaf on every tree in fine detail, but I'm not sure if even that's realistic. I'm willing to spend a little bit more if there's a particularly large jump in capability at that price point. I'm in Australia so I assume everything is more expensive than it should be. If AU$150 is your budget you're going top find it tough, you'll have to stretch a little for decent performance. The cheaper RX460's are $160-$170 (https://www.pccasegear.com/products/36379/xfx-radeon-rx-460-oc-2gb, https://www.umart.com.au/umart1/pro/Products-details.phtml?id=10&id2=557&bid=3&sid=290314). Ditto the GTX 750 ti (https://www.umart.com.au/umart1/pro/Products-details.phtml?id=10&id2=405&bid=3&sid=263125.) The older R7 370 seems to benchmark similarly to the RX 460 and can be had for $150 (https://www.pccasegear.com/products/32311/msi-radeon-r7-370-oc-2gb) Also, if your willing to buy used, you shouldn't have too much trouble getting a HD7950/R9 280/380 within your budget, which will be a decent step up from the cards above. This is in Brisbane, as it's where I am, but here's a used GTX 770 for $150 (http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/toowong/components/gigabyte-nvidia-gtx-770/1123082450) which is a massive jump in performance from those new cards, so you can manage if you're patient and are wiling to wait for a decent Gumtree/eBay.com.au deal.
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Sep 4, 2016 23:23
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Ample posted:My stock heat sink is dying on my Intel Core i5 750 @ 2.67GHz. Its loud and running hot and is not overclocked. I found a standard stock Socket LGA 1155 heat sink on amazon for 9 dollars. I'm really looking for something cheap that just insets on top of the motherboard. Is there a better alternative? I really don't feel like taking the entire motherboard in order screw a black plate in. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks in advance. The Cooler Master TX3 is only a bit more expensive, uses the push-pin style mounting, and should be much more quiet, if not silent on a stock clocked cpu.
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Sep 6, 2016 22:36
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Do you know the PSU model? You're not running a "550W" Shaw or Diablotek, are you? And what was the previous AMD card?
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Sep 8, 2016 22:26
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Potential BFF posted:My current PSU is a 550W Seasonic G Series,, the gfx card I replaced is an R9 270x. Both the GTX 780ti and the R9 are ASUS. I know a few people have piled on with the advice, put given everything was fine before, I would suspect an issue with the 780ti. To rule this out, try putting the 270X back in and see if you get any problems. The Seasonic G is a better unit than Evga B2 series, and you have enough wattage. It's probably best to at least test the old card again to make sure it isn't a problem with the new card. If it is the PSU, you should be able to RMA the Seasonic and save the coin instead of spending on the lesser EVGA.
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Sep 9, 2016 11:06
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Vidaeus posted:I want to get a GTX 1080, is there any appreciable difference between these two (fan noise, brand reliability, warranties, etc) I just jumped on the $560 ($700 minus 20%) 1070 founders edition on the eBay au groupdeals. It's worth noting you can save ~$100 buy ordering from Amazon, but other than that because the 1080 runs relatively cool, pretty much any aftermarket cooler will allow it to boost to its full potential, which is beyond what the listed boost clock would be, so you wouldn't be losing out on anything if you went with the cheaper MSI Armour listed in Futu's store. It has the same vrm 10 phases (same PCB in fact) as the Gaming X, so OC potential should be the same if that concerns you, so unless your trying to colour coordinate or you feel you really need a backplate, I recommend going with the MSI Armour.
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Sep 18, 2016 03:29
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Hot Smart ARYAN Girl posted:Can anyone recommend a good Bluetooth keyboard and mouse? I use the computer from the couch, so a keyboard with a track pad (or, dare I hope? A track ball) would be a huge plus. The Logitech K400 series are generally well regarded for HTPC/couch use. Edit. They're not bluetooth, didn't read your post properly. Look at this and see if anything strikes your fancy. I use a $10 Pendo bluetooth keyboard, so I don't think price is a big issue in regard to the quality/functionality of the keyboard. Kintamarama fucked around with this message at 23:03 on Oct 16, 2016 |
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Oct 16, 2016 22:56
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My secondary PC is a SA penny-pincher, Optiplex 790 SFF (i5-2400) plus low-profile 750ti. As far as I know there is no better low-profile graphics card on the market, but I'm wondering what kind of mileage I can get from a cpu upgrade. I'm thinking of hitting Gumtree and looking for a cheap h81/b85 Mobo and a i5-4440/4460. The reason for this is I'll be hitting the road for 3 weeks from this Saturday, and i'll be taking it on the road (it's seriously small, it'll fit into carryone luggage with room for the rest of your stuff) so I can keep playing BF1 seeing as it's the launch month. I'd like to get the most out of it, performance-wise, if I could. The 750ti is getting pretty low tier now, my first thought is that the current cpu shouldn't be a bottleneck for it, but then on my main rig with a 3570k@4.4 the cpu gets hammered hard in BF1, so maybe there are frames to be gained by bumping up the cpu. I thought I'd ask in here and get some educated opinions.
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Oct 24, 2016 13:42
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Rexxed posted:It may be difficult to find a motherboard that fits a vendor specific SFF case since they're usually not a standard size. If you're just going to put a new mini-itx system or something together this might work but there's no guarantees it will fit in the existing case without a lot of work. big crush on Chad OMG posted:From my Optiplex 990 experience, Dell also uses proprietary connectors for a lot of stuff which makes it almost a hard requirement to swap the case and motherboard. PSU probably as well since the cables are all routed to the specific Dell spot. You know, until now I've never stopped to think, "what is this motherboard form factor with two expansion slots?" This is actually my second penny-pincher, the first was an i3 Vostro 260s, which I butchered putting a full-height HD7750 into. It actually had a standard h61m motherboard, that's what had me thinking I could pull this off, until now that is. Good thing I asked at least, thanks anyway. . Kintamarama fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Oct 24, 2016 |
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Oct 24, 2016 21:44
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Hello thread, I posted a few weeks ago about attempting to upgrading my secondary PC, a Dell Optiplex 790 SFF. Due to various factors, including proprietary front panel connecters and the mobo I/O shield being soldered/welded into place, upgrading the platform was out of the question, and at the time the 750ti I have in there was pretty much the best low-profile card going so there was no GPU upgrade option. Well I just found this: http://www.anandtech.com/show/10856/msi-adds-lowprofile-geforce-gtx-1050-ti-to-lineup Realistically, I only really use the PC when I travel, or when a friend comes over so we can both play games together, so it only gets used a few times a year, but disregarding that is this even worthwhile doing with a i5-2400? Is the 1050(ti) worth spending the cash on to jump up from a 750ti?
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Nov 24, 2016 22:55
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Aranan posted:PSU: XFX ProSeries 550W Fuzz posted:Get a 1070, though that may max out your PSU and may be touch and go. I literally have roughly the same build as you and got a 1070 and I'm running Witcher 3 and Titanfall 2 maxed out at 1080. Be sure you're overclocking to at least 4.2 gigs. Just a bit of input here, but I have a 3570K@4.4 and a OCed 1070 and according to my little Kill-A-Watt style device my max power draw from the wall has been 331W. If you take the efficiency of my EVGA G2 to be 90%, that's a system draw of around 298W. He is not threatening the capacity of a 550W PSU in any way. E. Fact checking post facto, EVGA G2 efficiency is 90%, not 85%. Kintamarama fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Dec 20, 2016 |
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Dec 20, 2016 23:04
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Hollismason posted:Hey I have a bit of a unusual question and I figured goons could help me out. For Christmas this year we were given our bonus and they raffled off computers we were not keeping for the office. You're going to need a low-profile card there. MSI has announced this bad boy; https://www.msi.com/Graphics-card/GeForce-GTX-1050-Ti-4GT-LP.html#hero-overview but I haven't seen it available to buy anywhere yet. The best readily available low-profile card would be a 750ti, but the performance boost from that to the 1050ti is enough to make it worth waiting for in my opinion.
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Dec 21, 2016 22:01
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Hollismason posted:Yeah I am in no big rush. I mean I'd like to wait a bit probably til January or after Christmas to see if their is a sale / whatever. I may be able to get away with out a low profile if I can get a different low profile fan for the CPU. With a low powered card, there will be nothing on the back, just bare PCB i.e. the card will line up exactly along the PCIe slot, and looking at your pictures I'm confident a PCIe card will run under your fan shroud/ram slots. Also, I just want to clarify that you understand what I mean by low profile. I don't mean a short card, I mean a card that is half-height. A normal itx style short card will still be full height, and require you to either leave the side panel off your computer, or if your adventurous, cut a graphics-card-shaped hole in the side panel and also cut up the expansion slots.
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Dec 21, 2016 23:44
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If you look at your picture like a graph, the 182 length goes along the x-axis, the 35 width goes along the y-axis and the 69 height goes along the z-axis out if the picture towards you. E. Also, that's a PCIe x1 slot. If you've owned that PC since i5-3xxx's were new and you haven't used it yet, I doubt you ever will. Kintamarama fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Dec 24, 2016 |
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Dec 24, 2016 03:08
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really queer Christmas posted:What country are you in? - US It's not worth spending the money to go from a 5 year old GPU with GTX1050 performance, to a 4 year old GPU with GTX1050ti performance. I see you have a Z77 chipset, you could get away with just a GPU upgrade only if you overclock that CPU. 1155 socket mobos had a "Non-K overclock" feature that let you adjust the turbo multiplier 4 levels above stock, so that should get you to 4.3 on that CPU, you shouldn't be hindered in 60hz gaming. Just buy a new GPU, and you can upgrade the rest when you feel it chug. Edit. http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Non+k+overclock+z77 Just to clarify what I meant. You can get an extra 400mhz above the nominal turbo speed out of a non-k socket 1155 i5/i7 with a Z series chipset. Kintamarama fucked around with this message at 11:07 on Mar 9, 2017 |
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Mar 8, 2017 22:57
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This is my current rig; CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor (running at 4.4Ghz) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Pro4-M Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard Memory: Crucial Ballistix Tactical 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: Palit GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Founders Edition Video Card Case: Silverstone TJ08B-E MicroATX Mini Tower Case Sound Card: Asus Xonar DSX 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card I'm on a Korean 1440p 60Hz monitor. The platform being so old, along seeing a new batch of CPU's released has made be feel the nibble of the upgrade bug, but at 60Hz it's not going to be worthwhile upgrading is it? Somebody talk me down. On the other hand, I am also mildly concerned about resale value too, if I wait longer the value I can get back on my CPU/Mobo/ram to offset the cost of upgrading can only go down. What would you wise goons do in my shoes? Oh yeah, I'm just playing games (Battlefield mostly), and every now and then use Premiere to make highlight clips.
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Apr 14, 2017 01:06
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Thanks for your input BIG HEADLINE. I forgot to mention that I am Down-Under, and a quick glance at some of my local stores show availability is not good. Also, due to the fact the U14S covers the graphics card slot in the regular orientation, I've had to rotate it 90° so the airflow is vertical. This means it now hangs right over the memory slots, so the dual channel kits that actually are available are ruled out as a necessity, as they all seem to have tall heatsinks Additionally, spending ~AU$180 on DDR3 when I could get 3000/3200Mhz DDR4 at the same price is, to me, a bitter pill to swallow, especially as I won't see the benefit of the resale value for perhaps a year or however long it takes for a solid replacement to be released. You actually ended up talking me down from an upgrade, though I'm not sure if that was your intention. I might hang on until the next round Intel's/AMD's offers come along.
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Apr 14, 2017 03:23
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As I was thinking of an upgrade earlier, I thought I might drop this PSA for my fellow residents of Australia; I was pricing out an AMD R5 platform upgrade, and; PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor ($359.00 @ Mwave Australia) Motherboard: Asus PRIME B350M-A Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($119.00 @ Shopping Express) Memory: G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($295.00 @ Scorptec) Total: $773.00 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-14 17:24 AEST+1000 You might be thinking, "that is quite expensive RAM." Well, it seems Ryzen CPUs need fast RAM to stretch their legs, but not any fast RAM, a very specific ram chip is needed, and as you can see it is very pricy in Oz. CPU: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($449.00 @ PLE Computers) Motherboard: ASRock Z270 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($169.00 @ IJK) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($172.70 @ Newegg Australia) Total: $790.70 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-14 17:26 AEST+1000 PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Due to the fact that with Intel, XMP profiles just work, and you get diminishing returns over 3200Mhz, you can get much more reasonably priced RAM. So much so that you need only spend $17 more to get yourself an i7 platform. If you are wondering about how I chose the motherboards, I just chose the cheapest motherboard available on PCPP Au for both platforms. If I were to go through with the platform upgrade, in light of this tooling around in PCPP Au, I would go an i7 over an R5. Is my reasoning wrong here?
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Apr 14, 2017 09:13
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rex rabidorum vires posted:Simple answer: if all you're doing is gaming then the 7700k will dominate the R5. A few things to note for the R5 build: the 1600 the better value over the 1600x IMO because it comes with a stock cooler, performs within 10% out of the box, and can OC where it's nearly identical performance with the X. Additionally, the B350 motherboard only supports up to 3200 mhz ram. I only looked quickly, but 3200 Gskill Trident Z appears to run ~$200 instead of $295. So between moving to the 1600 (if you choose) and stepping down the ram you're looking at saving $135 on that R5 build. Cutting off $135 puts it back in line with an i5, price wise. A straight swap out with the 7600k in my example build makes the Intel build $10 more expensive than the R5 build you laid out, though the $200 3200Mhz Trident Z is the CAS 16 model, whereas the CAS 15 version of the 3200Mhz Trident Z is the model with the magic chips, which runs $250. I'm just parroting what I've seen online. Maybe you don't need the special RAM to hit 3200Mhz+, but overall I have found the RAM situation to be very confusing, I can't believe I put this much research into it only to decide to sit on what I have for a while longer. GutBomb posted:If you're 1080p gaming the intel will be a little better. If you're 1440p gaming or higher that load all goes to your GPU predominantly and it makes the CPUs much more even. I really don't see a reason not to recommend AMD for 1440p or higher machines because gaming performance is even with intel and you get so much more non-gaming performance for the same or lower price. This was a factor in deciding to sit on my 3570k a bit longer, I'm on a 60Hz 1440p monitor, as I use my PC primarily for playing games, non of Intel's or AMD's offerings gave me a compelling enough reason to upgrade. It's just weird having such an old platform and not needing to upgrade.
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Apr 14, 2017 23:27
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leekster posted:Hey everyone. I am about to start traveling to and from Asia and the US for my job and I'm going to need a super portable tower. Any recommendations on what to use to keep it small and powerful? I have done something similar, I used a Dell Optiplex SFF PC with a low-profile graphics card. The SFF Optiplex cases are around 8L~, so they are really quite small, and mine surived the trip from Japan to Australia, with a stop over in Korea in the check in luggage. Try the Dell outlet or eBay/Gumtree for a second hand Dell/HP/Lenovo, preferably with a i5, then look to add a low-profile GTX 1050.
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Apr 26, 2017 11:08
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Almost Honest, I thought I'd point out that the Antec Edge that BurritoJustice recommended is $20 cheaper a MSY. http://www.msy.com.au/qldonline/power-supply/14465-antec-edge-550-550w-edge-80plus-gold-full-modular-gaming-power-supply-unit.html
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May 7, 2017 01:30
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HP Artsandcrafts posted:Well, duh. A quick google turned up a review for that cooler you got there; https://www.nikktech.com/main/artic...howall=&start=5 If you don't want to click it shows it turning in a load result of 63°C running OCCT with an i7 3930K, so your i5 build would be very feasible. Also that 200mm Noctua at >800rpm will basically be silent
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Jun 16, 2017 10:31
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You probably just need to initiate it in Disk Management.
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Jun 23, 2017 22:36
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Bobfly posted:I think I'm at a point where I can allow myself to buy a computer to play games on. The CPU cooler and PSU are super premium, you can probably save a bit if you moved down to a Noctua U12S/U14S for the cooler, and a Seasonic G-550/G-650 on the PSU, assuming you want to stick with those brands.
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Jun 30, 2017 12:06
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Bobfly posted:I have no preference as such, I just heard they were quiet and power-efficient, respectively. Do you think it's a silly place to put my money? In terms of quality and quietness, a top line gold rated PSU, such as the Seasonic ones I mentioned above, the EVGA G2/G3 series or Corsair RM series are all top shelf and you won't be losing out by choosing them over that Titanium rated unit. The real world power bill savings you'd get from the Titanium rated unit over one of the golds wouldn'd even begin to make up for the extra ~$60 upfront outlay, and gold rated units are very efficient anyway. You are basically saving ~$60 without really sacrificing anythung. Maybe someone with experience OCing socket 1151 CPUs can chime in regarding the cooler, but if you are planning to push the OC as far as you can go, the NH-D15 would be appropriate, it just depends on the value you place on that last 100-300mhz. If you are willing to delid though, a cheaper cooler will be fine, and you can still get that last bit of performance anyway.
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Jun 30, 2017 16:44
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Before you start buying a new case, you should probably check your fans are the right way round. It seems silly, but that stark of a difference with the side panel off is a good indicator something went wrong. The air flows through the open side of the fan, out the back of the side with the spokes. Make sure with the fans at the front, the spokes are facing towards the inside of the case, and for the rear fan, the spokes are against the rear panel.
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Jul 2, 2017 22:55
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B-Mac posted:Haha thanks. I'm definitely dumb enough to do this but the fan supports are all facing the direction I want the air flow so I think they are good. Just googled your case and saw that it has a solid front panel. High temps are often a fact of life with a case like that. Your last move before buying a new case is to move one of the fans to the lower fan mount on the side panel, so its over the video card. There was an article posted ages ago that showed the side panel fan had the most beneficial effect on CPU/GPU cooling.
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Jul 3, 2017 11:12
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Last year I posted about my secondary PC, an Optiplex 780 SFF plus 750ti, which I could toss in my suitcase and put through check-in luggage when I travelled. Basically I got rid of it and put together my own ITX build out of parts I had on hand, plus a few 2nd hand pieces, based on a Silverstone SG13. Now I have a couple of worries regarding tossing it in with the check-in luggage. 1: I am now using a full height GPU, as opposed to the low-profile in the old PC, so it seems to me their may be more leverage for flex/torque. But then again, the card is screwed into the expansion slot on the case and is reasonably light, I don't think there would be all that much room for flexing. 2: The CPU cooler is an ancient AIO H70 I had on hand, I am worried about the possibility of it springing a leak if it gets jostled around. Again on the other hand his is also screwed down into the case. My annual trip is coming up and I was wondering what you guys thought of tossing this into the check-in luggage. I would prefer not to carry-on as it is fairly weighty. (I just weighed it now, 5.7kg. Doesn't sound like a lot, but I don't want to be carrying it around for hours potentially and using up most of the 7kg carry-on limit.) The PC in question, if anyone is interested; http://imgur.com/a/veuv1
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Jul 18, 2017 23:00
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Thwomp posted:Just a quick check of something I've been putting together. I'm just looking to see what kind of budget home server I could create in the smallest form factor possible. Are you certain you won't need more than three 3.5" HDDs? Otherwise you might find that case limiting in the future. The difference in performance between that last gen i3 versus the current gen, cheaper Pentium 4560 would be unnoticeable. The Pentium also has hardware h.265 encode/decode I think, which would be super helpful for a HTPC going forward, but I'm not sure if that will effect plex transcodes in a server. You'd just have to make sure that motherboard accepts Kaby Lake CPUs out the box, otherwise you'll need somebody to flash that Motherboard for you. Or you can go for a 200 series motherboard such as this; Motherboard: MSI - B250I GAMING PRO AC Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($81.98 @ Newegg) The money saved from going to the Pentium would more than make up for the extra $13 you'd spend on this motherboard.
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Aug 9, 2017 10:39
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Thwomp posted:So here's a small revision: Looks ok. Also Intel's new 8th gen chips are releasing on Aug 21st, so it might be worthwhile seeing if an i3-8100 is worth your while. That last sentence is also for anyone asking about a new build in the next 2 weeks.
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Aug 9, 2017 22:58
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Ghostpilot posted:I'm helping someone build a system for 1080p gaming and trying to save them a few bucks. They're currently on an old laptop, but inherited a workplace PC (an Hewlett-Packard HP Compaq Elite 8300 SFF) that I was thinking of using the processor (i7-3770) and memory from as the mobo / case / PSU are proprietary. They have a budget of $1000 and live near a Microcenter. Considering that Ivy-Bridge motherboards would be tough to come by these days, should I roll with the 3770 or start with a newer processor entirely? Just put a low profile 1050ti in that; Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB OC Low Profile Video Card ($154.99 @ SuperBiiz) A quick google shows the mobo has 4 Ram slots, grab a 2x4GB DDR3 from Gumtree or eBay or something like that, to take you up to 12GB (I'm assumeing there's already a 2x2GB kit in there). Memory is memory and saving a bit of money going second hand would be appropriate of a build of this vintage (cos you wouldn't want to put too much money into it at this stage). Even though that CPU would compare well to current non-K i5s, there is no way he should be putting $1000 into an Ivy Bridge system. If that's not agreeable the good folks here won't hesitate to spec out a $1000 build if you ask, but I am of the opinion that if your friend is not big into gaming he should be happy with the above solution .
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Oct 1, 2017 09:09
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ninjahedgehog posted:So my old GTX 760 is starting to show its age and I'm looking to upgrade the video card to a 1060 6GB. Here's my current machine but with the new video card in it, is there anything else I should be looking into upgrading while I'm at it? I'm mostly worried about the power supply, but PCPartPicker says I'm still about 200 watts shy of maxing it out, so The previous poster who replied to you overstated how poor the performance of the 1060 is due to a poor port of a console title. ROTR has a particular area (geothermal valley) that tanks performance due to poor CPU optimisation. The 1060 will generally play current popular titles at 1080p ultra 60fps. Though we won't know what the future will bring, if you go a 1070 and turn down performance as needed you can probably maintain 60fps for a good long while, similar to how a five year old gtx 670 now will do 60fps at med in a title like BF1 but a 660 will eat poo poo on low.
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Oct 10, 2017 22:43
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Are you buying those second hand or new? And are those the actual prices you'll be paying? Because a build based on the i3-8100 or a R3 1200, if you are set on a quad, will be a better proposition if you are going to pay $230 for a i5-4460 in 2017.
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Oct 13, 2017 23:31
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Cheap Trick posted:What's a decent after-market air cooler for an i5-4690k? I'm looking for something that's not as big as a Hyper 212, and I'm going to be doing little or no overclocking. You can check out the Cooler Master Hyper TX-3, or 103. The Cryorig M9i is another option, or were you ruling out any type of tower cooler and wanting a low-profile cooler? If that's the case the Cryorig C7 is a cheaper option that won't take overclocking too well, whilst the Noctua NH-L9x65 is a bit pricier but should take a mild overclock.
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Oct 16, 2017 13:08
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I can't believe I've done it, but I've gone ahead and ordered an i7 8700k when I still have a perfectly good i5 3570k at 4.4Ghz. Anyway, my question is; Will my overclocking be limited by my NH-U14S without delidding? Is it worthwhile getting a h110i or something like that while I'm at it?
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Nov 23, 2017 09:51
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