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IXIX posted:Can someone give me the usual troubleshooting methods for when you get no response on pressing the power button on a new build? Wall power socket is confirmed good. It's almost to the point with a new build that if everything works perfectly right off the bat, it's a bad omen. It's like the inverse of christening a ship - we kind of *want* the bottle to bounce off the hull unbroken because it gives us incentive to go back in ~one more time~ and check that everything's connected and tight - and that those front panel connectors are working.
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Jun 17, 2016 00:46
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Moola posted:Is this a bad PSU? http://www.overclock.net/t/1431436/why-you-should-not-buy-a-corsair-cx430-500-600
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Jun 20, 2016 00:36
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Moola posted:so its bad but not, my pc will soon explode bad http://m.ebuyer.com/520266 Get this one instead. BeQuiet does good work. Review: https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/beQuiet/PurePower_L8_500W/ BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Jun 20, 2016 |
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Jun 20, 2016 04:00
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GobiasIndustries posted:Sorry, I left out that, in that price range, I'd prefer a windows solution over anything else. http://www.kangaroo.cc/
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Jun 20, 2016 04:50
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Moola posted:Would an EVGA 500w 80+ bronze also be a good choice? I'd still give the nod to the BeQuiet PSU.
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Jun 21, 2016 01:05
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Moola posted:reading reviews and opinions on PSUs online is loving irritating Well, that techpowerup review I linked you to said it was a good PSU but it did fail one metric and isn't officially accepted by Intel as being Haswell-ready. It also makes special note of the components used as being high-quality. https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/beQuiet/PurePower_L8_500W/4.html
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Jun 21, 2016 04:28
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Just going by eBay auctions for a PSU for an Inspiron 3847, it's a 300W unit. You'll want 400-500W, and that's assuming an RX480 or GTX 960. The TDP of the 760 is 170W to the 960's 120W, while the RX480 is ~150W. You'll also want to make certain the card's length is no longer than 9-10": 
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Jun 21, 2016 08:10
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WattsvilleBlues posted:https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00N3NUU60/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3SNJLG2NFXT8P&coliid=I1O6LFGON6VP0Q&psc=1 Look into the Corsair Air 240 as well: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/carbide-series-air-240-high-airflow-micro-atx-and-mini-itx-pc-case
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Jul 28, 2016 10:53
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Pokkahn posted:http://pcpartpicker.com/list/cXjZf8 Other than moving from the Noctua to a similar/cheaper 'big block' HSF like the Hyper 212 EVO, which will save you ~$40, the other big way to drop some money would be to go to a 6600K. That being said, I wouldn't use a CX-series Corsair PSU in a build with a 1070 (or a CPU you intend on trying to overclock, if you're buying a K variant). The CX series are fine if you're building a PC for your kid who isn't playing AAA games, but you'll want something a bit more substantive to run your build stably over a 3-5 year span. Here's the 'why you shouldn't' info on the CX-series: http://www.overclock.net/t/1431436/why-you-should-not-buy-a-corsair-cx430-500-600 Also, I don't have anything against big-block HSFs, either - I've used a Silver Arrow on my 2500K since 2012. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 01:30 on Aug 1, 2016 |
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Aug 1, 2016 00:56
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hamsystem posted:My wife wants me to build her a box to play WoW on. I can get a 2500k and an Intel Z77 board for about $180 off eBay. Good idea? Bad idea? How are Intel boards generally regarded? If she just wants to play WoW, buy a Skull Canyon NUC or something - that'd even be overkill. You'll win husband points for buying her something 'tiny and cool,' though. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Aug 1, 2016 |
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Aug 1, 2016 05:18
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In regards to the OP above, here's Tom's $662 PC to give you some idea of what ~$700 would buy you (keep in mind it's Q1 '16): http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/q1-2016-system-builder-marathon-662-dollar-budget-pc,4523.html The AMD RX470 would be a better card than the 2GB 950, and you could get a respectable 250GB SSD for $70 during a sale and use your old hard drive for storage. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Aug 1, 2016 |
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Aug 1, 2016 06:21
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Insurrectionist posted:Hmmm, thanks for the info. There's a mid-way chip in the 965M. It's actually a Maxwell (GM206) core, but to make things even more confusing, there are two 965Ms, but to my knowledge there's no way to differentiate between the two unless the notebook maker feels generous enough to denote N16E-GR in their specs somewhere. Regardless, you'd want the 4GB buffer version as the 2GB one is laughable. You also don't see many laptops using the 965M, either. http://www.notebookcheck.net/Nvidia-GeForce-GTX-965M-2016-Refresh-N16E-GR-Review.158192.0.html
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Aug 5, 2016 06:51
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Massasoit posted:Just a reminder to replace old power supplies! Or don't use OEM ones in the first place. It's hard to convince an average person to change out a lovely/barely adequate PSU on a new computer. People still treat their computers like VCRs.
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Aug 8, 2016 00:41
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Buffis posted:edit: I'm running it at 4.4ghz now btw. Could maybe go higher, but havent touched the settings for it in a while. I've been running mine for just about as long @ 4.4Ghz at stock VCore and I've never had a single issue.
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Aug 10, 2016 22:36
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fleshweasel posted:I'm looking at buying a desktop PC for software development, mainly with Visual Studio on Windows 10. Fast I/O is important to me for compile times and IDE responsiveness. I'm not planning on gaming but the ability to put a decent graphics card on it down the line could be nice. Would I be better off custom building or buying prebuilt? Any particular hardware suggestions? I know Samsung has a nice high end consumer SSD. Compactness would be nice but is not a big priority. I also will probably be using it remotely much of the time. Samsung is about to launch the 960 Pro and EVO NVMe drives. If you need I/O those will be your best bet, if not the cheapest. So long as your motherboard is Z97 or newer you could drop one in a PCIe adapter and you're off to the races. As for a decent graphics card, the 1050 is due out at the end of October, which should be sub-$200 MSRP, and the 3GB 1060s have already gone under $200.
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Sep 21, 2016 21:40
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Lechtansi posted:The only thing that I haven't figured out yet is the video card . My goal for this PC in the first place was that it was going be a sub $600 machine, but i'm willing to go up to $800. That means about $300 for the video card - what do you goons recommend? It really depends on what your monitor resolution is/will be, but at the $300 mark, look into a 6GB 1060. If you'd prefer to save some money, an 8GB 470 will 'do you' at 1080/1200p. A 1060 will give you some breathing room at 1440p, but not a lot. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Sep 22, 2016 |
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Sep 22, 2016 07:12
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Lechtansi posted:Sorry, I buried it in my original post. 1280x1024 is what my monitor is. Maybe I could source up another $150 for a better monitor but I'd rather buy the computer first. Just go with the eVGA single-fan. 1060s don't put out a ton of heat and there's no need to add another fan to your case noise-wise. And yeah, $150 would get you a decent IPS 1080p screen these days, and that'd be a good Quality of Life increase over your 4:3, especially since a 1060 mated with a 1280x1024 monitor...yeah. Kind of a misallocation of resources. Et voila: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-VN248Q-P-1920x1080-DisplayPort-Monitor/dp/B010VG2456 ($112 after rebate) BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 07:36 on Sep 22, 2016 |
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Sep 22, 2016 07:28
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Lechtansi posted:Thanks for the advice. Any particular reason you went with a micro atx board? I would have to buy a new case (unless it will fit my old atx case) MicroATX will fit an ATX case, so unless you want a decidedly smaller computer, you don't have to buy a new case. The only question I'd have is whether or not you're coming from an OEM (Dell, HP, etc) tower, because while OEMs are more or less forbidden from doing what Dell used to do and making PSUs proprietary by moving pins and whatnot around, mounting holes and means of mounting motherboards *can* be a prickly issue when it comes to re-using OEM cases. Also, if your old case only has like *one* 80mm intake and outflow fan, you might consider stepping up to a case that has (at least) one each of 120mms. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 09:39 on Sep 22, 2016 |
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Sep 22, 2016 07:47
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goodness posted:That ASus looks good. I found this one too for about the same price . which would be better The Acer doesn't have Displayport and it doesn't carry ASUS' exchange program or warranty for displays.
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Sep 23, 2016 19:35
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Crossposting this from the CPU thread, since it might help more people here: These sold out INCREDIBLY fast last time: http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=113&cp_id=11307&cs_id=1130706&p_id=16376&seq=1&format=2 Brand new 6700k for $288.99, $2.49 base shipping. Microcenter currently wants ~$300 (before tax and a $30 discount if purchased with a motherboard) for the same CPU, so this is a chance for people not near an MC to pick up this CPU at a 'discount' with no tax...so long as you don't live in CA. There is a $20 off $100 promo code that's valid until tomorrow, but because the CPU is listed as a 'Sale' item, it's not valid. Also, if the 7xxx series are already showing up in laptops, I'd say we're about a month or so before the desktop Kaby Lakes start showing up, and Monoprice occasionally functions as a clearing house for excess inventory. Addendum - Monoprice also has the i5-6600k for $212.49 (~$3 more expensive than Micro Center, so not as big a deal): http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=113&cp_id=11307&cs_id=1130706&p_id=16383&seq=1&format=2 They also had the 6500 for $174.24 (~$5 cheaper than MC), but that's sold out now. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Sep 23, 2016 |
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Sep 23, 2016 21:38
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Arcsquad12 posted:Well, I've wanted to build a desktop for a while now and I set myself a 2000 dollar budget to make something nice. Also, unless you've got a real need for Hyperthreading, drop to an i5-6600K to save yourself $150 Canadian funbux. Forgo that combo, as it's kind of a mishmash. The ASUS board is fine, but the ASRock Z170s are what people have been recommending, and I personally won't use any RAM but Corsair these days. The 240GB Mushkin SSD they're trying to pawn off on you in that combo is middling at best, and probably only in there because they want to clear stock of it. Also you want at least a 500GB SSD for a boot these days - if a Samsung 850 EVO is too expensive, look into the Sandisk X400, or hold off until you can get a Samsung 960 EVO 500GB that you can drop into the ASUS' M.2 slot, even though a 500GB 960 EVO will cost you what a 1TB 850 EVO will. Here is ASUS' own "Use this DDR4 in our board" guide: http://dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1151/Z170-A/Z170-A_DRAM_QVL_20160316.pdf?_ga=1.189438893.709382700.1474225545 Similarly, the DDR4-2400 in that kit is abysmally slow (DDR4 starts at 2133) and faster DDR4 is actually a good place to put some extra money going from a 6700K to a 6600K because you can actually notice gains when it comes to faster DDR4. Again - Newegg's 'combo' deals, with a few rare exceptions, are complete dogshit meant to clear out obsolete or lesser-sold components to people looking to do less research and clicking. Just because it *will* work together doesn't mean you can't get something better for the same price or a little more/less. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 10:12 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 26, 2016 09:58
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Namarrgon posted:Does that explanation make sense? This is what I got; Drop the OCZ SSD for a Sandisk X400 if you're pinching pennies (also you'll want at *least* a ~250GB SSD for a boot/priority application drive), and if you're getting a non-K processor you don't have to get a Z170 board. You also won't need a 550W PSU to run that system, a better-quality 450W will run it fine - the Corsair CXMs don't have the best reputation. They'll do the job, but they're kind of designed at their core to run Granny's store-bought system that will never have any more load on it than Flash games and Youtube videos. peak debt posted:There will apparently be a GTX 1050 released before the holidays at a $150ish price point, if the rumors are to be believed. "Before the holidays" is widely expected to be "about a month from now." The 1050's supposedly being released at the end of October.
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Sep 26, 2016 11:23
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VelociBacon posted:Would honestly be a bad card. Noone should buy anything less than a 1060 level card. It will definitely be interesting to see 4GB 1050s against 3GB 1060s, but 6GB 1060s would have to reliably get down to ~$225 after rebate, which would mean 1050s would be selling for under $150 and 3GB 1060s would be ~$175.
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Sep 26, 2016 11:27
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peak debt posted:I completely disagree. The big majority of gamers still use a 1080p monitor and mostly play games like DOTA or console-ported 3D shooters on medium settings. You can't use integrated graphics for that, but a 1060 is overkill. $300 is also a big hit in the wallet for many people. A 6GB 1060 is closer to $250 than $300, and the single-fan eVGA 3GB 1060s are already $199. That being said, I did see a 950GTX for $90 in a mailer recently. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 11:42 on Sep 26, 2016 |
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Sep 26, 2016 11:40
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SL the Pyro posted:EDIT: Blargh, was beaten to posting. RAM is about as cheap as it's going to get right now, and 16GB of system memory is a good hedge against the immediate ~futcha~. I still think outside of niche applications and needs that 32GB is overkill, but some people are going that route because...RAM is about as cheap as it's going to get right now. Also, with regards to overclocking, you're not putting a huge strain on the 6th-gen Intel chips simply because you're not taking them wildly out-of-spec - most people take the 6600K up to ~4.2-4.3Ghz. If that sounds low compared to people saying they're running their 2500K at 4.3-4.6Ghz, those architectural improvements are what allow a Skylake to outperform an overclocked 2500K slightly to moderately at 4.2-4.3Ghz.
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Sep 26, 2016 21:56
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Oh, and don't go with a 4x4 kit for 16GB, stick with 2x8 kits. With the exception of server-descendant board like the X99, which are tuned for quad channel and massive quantities of RAM and have better controller chips to handle said shitload of RAM, it's been my experience over the last half-decade to go with two slots populated, max, on a dual-channel board. I had two identical 4x4 Crucial LP kits go tits up on me after a few months' time, but when I finally got fed up and replaced it with a 2x8 kit, everything's been rock solid now for four years straight.
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Sep 26, 2016 23:36
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Elderbean posted:What's an ideal build/display for someone who wants to do a lot of digital painting? I built my PC about 4 years ago and haven't really kept up with the tech. Right now, I have a GTX 680, 8 gigs of ram, an i5-3570k, a corsair 650D and two Dell UltraSharp U2412Ms. Two of the tower fans poo poo the bed at the same time, so those need to be fixed first. The ultrasharps are pretty nice, but the more I paint the more I want a larger main display, probably at 4k. The stand for them is also gigantic and doesn't allow for much manipulation. There are 4K VA displays that aren't hideously expensive (stay away from the cheaper TN variety) - and if you're doing digital painting, you have a legitimate reason to use a 4K display for non-gaming. The issue is, I'm pretty sure your GTX680 doesn't do Deep Color, so you'd probably want to pick up a 6GB 1060 or 8GB 480 for that. You can also save a bit of money by going with a 40"-class 4K television (look at the Sony XBR43X830C), but you have to make sure it's capable of 4:4:4 chroma. *All* PC 4K monitors are (save for a few really early ones that were made to take advantage of people), but not all 4K televisions are. Of course, good luck finding a grid-array LED backlit 4K TV for under ~$750 - most of them are edge-lit which results in lovely black reproduction, which might be an issue for your color/painting work. Similarly, watch this periodically: https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/search?q=Monitor&sort=new&restrict_sr=on&feature=legacy_search ASUS also makes "ProArt" monitors specifically for image creation and editing, but they're not cheap. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 01:28
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The one thing I haven't seen anyone really mention yet is that everyone with 2500Ks who've been running them for 4-6 years now, really need to look into buying a new PSU, preferably one they'll be able to grandfather into their next build. Back when people were doing a moderate to major rebuild every three years, it wasn't a huge concern, but with people reaching the warranty limit on their PSU it's time to consider pulling that line.
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Sep 27, 2016 04:46
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Fauxtool posted:which intel processors have beefy enough onboard GPUs to power 1080p ultrawide? I want do do a home theatre build for around $500 and im waffling between a prebuilt or building it. There are just too many different processors and it doesnt help that a lot of the prebuilts are using 3+ year old stuff There are Intel NUCs now that have Isis 540 GPUs built in that should be able to handle 1080p no problem, as they're rated to (but obviously wouldn't perform well at) 4096x2304@60Hz. That being said, those NUCs cost ~$350 to start, and that's before RAM, an M.2 SSD, and an OS license, which will bring the sunk cost above your $500 limit, but give you a really cute and compact little powerhouse.
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Sep 27, 2016 05:21
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Axetrain posted:Heres what Ive put together on PC partspicker so far. The 1080 is a place where you could probably save ~$150 off the bat. A decent 1070 will work fine for your current and immediate-future resolution, unless you're planning on buying a 21:9 1440p high-refresh-rate widescreen or a 4K display, in which case a 1080 would be a good idea. I'm personally not enamored with GeIL memory, and generally stick to Corsair's LP/LPX line (none of that ultra-huge heat spreader crap). It'll be about $20-25 more expensive, and consider going with DDR4-3000, as DDR4 does benefit from speed boosts. Also, Corsair's North American service structure is akin to eVGA's in terms of structure and quality (wow, that sounds really 'shilly'). As for a 'roomy' case, the Corsair Air 540 is what I use, with some rubber feet that allow me to turn it on its side so it looks like a squashed Borg Cube. Corsair just put out a new version of it, but it's a giant cube with no 5.25" bays, even though optical drives are kind of going the way of the Dodo. Still, if 'roominess' is what you want, the Air series are definitely up to the task, they're just ~big~ (and the 540's ~$30 more expensive than the 400C). kanonvandekempen posted:I'm planning on building my first pc in the near future, but I'm pretty flexible time-wise. Is it likely there will be sales on video cards by the holidays or will prices more or less stay what they are untill the next generation comes about? With the exception of promo codes, expect the prices to stay pretty static until we get closer to AMD releasing Vega, or nVidia confirming the 'realness' of a 1080Ti, which should (in theory) spur a $50-100 price cut across the board ($50 for the 1070, ~$100 for the 1080). I've no way of backing this up, it's just kind of what happened the last time when they trotted out the 980Ti. Speaking of which, you can get a 1070 Windforce now through Jet for ~$360 using their TRIPLE15 code and waiving free returns/paying with a debit card: https://jet.com/product/Gigabyte-GeForce-GTX-1070-Windforce-OC-8gb-Gddr5-Dvi-Hdmi-3xdp/b979579e8c504f119b87289be0f4b26e BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 09:46 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 09:40
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Mad Katter posted:Is there any reason to not go with an M.2 SSD if the price is the same? Other than the fact that you're limiting yourself with regards to form factor, not really. If the M.2 slot you're thinking of populating is NVMe-ready, let the good times roll. If it's merely SATA-linked, you could go either way. That being said, going M.2 means if you ever need to copy or clone data from it, you'll need an enclosure for it or an ability/means to image it (if we're talking about a laptop here). That's a whole lot easier to do with a 2.5" SSD with the standardized SATA connector, and likely will be for most of the next decade. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 13:45 on Sep 27, 2016 |
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Sep 27, 2016 12:42
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ItBurns posted:Does Kaby Lake, or rather the 200 series chipset, support 128gb of RAM? Given that that would require 4x32GB DIMMs, which would be prohibitively expensive as well as require a beefier memory controller than you'd normally find on a consumer/mid-range enthusiast board.
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Sep 28, 2016 20:32
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gatesealer posted:So I am fixing to upgrade my computer for the first time in 3 years. I have a geforce gtx 660. I don't want to spend $400-500 on a new graphic card. What is a good option? You can get a 6GB 1060 for $229 after rebate (239-249 without), which offers 980-level performance with DX12 support.
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Sep 28, 2016 20:36
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Twerk from Home posted:Are there 32GB unbuffered DDR4 DIMMS at all? Will there ever be, or will we have transitioned to a different tech to get there? Evidently there are, but I still would bet money that the average Z270 will top out at 64GB. The only boards I'd suspect might support 128GB would be the ASUS WS line, which might use beefier IC chips.
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Sep 28, 2016 20:54
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rock2much posted:Is it stupid to reject a motherboard due to it's lack of USB ports? Am I going to see any kind of performance hit if I just install a PCI card with more USB ports on it? Some boards will have a connection for additional USB ports, check the manual on the maker's site and see if there's a 9-pin USB header somewhere. Other than that, USB hubs are still a thing.
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Sep 28, 2016 21:37
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gatesealer posted:That seems in line with my budget. Thanks https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JNUO6BG Here's a Gigabyte 6GB 1060 for $229 after rebate. And yeah, you *can* get a 1070 for ~$360 now, but I think some people don't consider just how important $100 is to some people nowadays. That being said, you could also spend $10-30 more and get an EVGA card - if you find the 1060 anemic, use their Step Up program to snag a 1070 within 90 days.
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Sep 28, 2016 22:25
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VelociBacon posted:I would rather just pay the extra and have a chip that supports it. I thought intel locked down in some way their non-k chips that were being overclocked? BCLK overclocking is the new term for the old practice of overclocking the Front Side Bus. It's *technically* not the same thing, because things work slightly different than they used to, but it's the same principle - instead of the 'ease' and relative safety of simply boosting the multiplier on an unlocked chip, and having the CPU tell you when you've gone too far by throttling, BSODing, or refusing to POST, BCLK overclocking overclocks the system writ large. So if you take that base 100Mhz x Multiplier and turn it up to 120Mhz x Multiplier, you'll be overclocking the CPU, but you'll also be overclocking everything else that uses the bus (the reason it's not called the Front Side Bus anymore is that the CPU is separated from the interface that controls things like SATA and USB). BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Sep 29, 2016 |
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Sep 29, 2016 03:53
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Fauxtool posted:Almost all the z170 boards still support it. All the bad things they said they would do to make the systems already doing it stop working never happened Well, they kind of don't *have* to do anything to make the systems stop working, because BCLK/FSB overclocking already will demonstrably shorten a system's lifespan. If you're going to up a system's BCLK don't go over ~105Mhz. Google also shows that recent Intel CPUs will balk even at minor BCLK increases.
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Sep 29, 2016 03:57
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Anime Schoolgirl posted:The only things BCLK changes in skylake now are cpu clock multiplier and RAM speed multiplier, same as Ivy Bridge-E Yeah, I wanted to edumacate myself on what made BCLK different from overclocking a the front side bus ~back in the 90s~, and that's why - they separated things with newer CPUs, so all you're doing is placing increased strain on the CPU.
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Sep 29, 2016 04:02
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VelociBacon posted:Can you adjust the vcore as well though I thought that was locked out on the non-k chips and thus was the limiting factor. I'm not the person to ask - the last time I overclocked, it was setting my 2500K to an x44 multiplier in January of 2012.
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Sep 29, 2016 05:37
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