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If anyone isn't already bought into a power tool system, Home Depot has a killer deal going on right now in their stores. Check the website to see if your location has this item: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-1...P1837/305439006 If they do, you can get it and any two items from an extensive list of bare tools and batteries for $199 total. That's 5 tools and two batteries for under $200. You can also use this deal to expand your tool collection. When you buy a multiple tool deal like this in store, the receipt should list a maximum refund value, which is based on the percentage of the total before the free tool discount. You can then return one or two of the items and get that amount back. Put simply, if you buy the kit and get two $99 tools for free, you can return the tools and get $50 a piece back bringing the kit to $100. Truth be told, you can probably craigslist or eBay some of the extra tools for more than the return value, so that might be a better option as well.
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Jan 17, 2019 04:04
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Any recommendations for the most useful/best value of those extra tools assuming starting from scratch?
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Jan 18, 2019 03:38
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BeastOfExmoor posted:If anyone isn't already bought into a power tool system, Home Depot has a killer deal going on right now in their stores. Check the website to see if your location has this item: I bought a similar kit (mine came with an oscillating multitool, flashlight and a sawzall) with wedding money and I love it to death. The only thing I’d add to it is a mini cordless screwdriver but my old Black and Decker is still hanging on. Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Jan 18, 2019 |
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Jan 18, 2019 04:04
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BeastOfExmoor posted:If anyone isn't already bought into a power tool system, Home Depot has a killer deal going on right now in their stores. Check the website to see if your location has this item: My local ad showed that kit + a jigsaw and a reciprocating saw for $230. Seems alright when the same ad lists each of those saws at $120 lol but on Amazon they're like half that price. I just wish they were corded instead of battery-powered. Anyway, does the receipt really not, like, prorate if you return just 1-2 things? Getting a couple of free tools is pretty tempting... How do people in the thread feel about battery-powered tools? I kind of prefer cords. Managing batteries is not only a pain but my garage also gets super hot and I'd be worried about the batteries losing performance faster or simply going bad when I inevitably store them for 3-6 months. My 100-foot extension cord isn't going bad anytime soon
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Jan 18, 2019 08:09
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How weird would it be if you hired a professional to do some work and they showed up with a plug-in drill or something.
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Jan 18, 2019 08:52
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QuarkJets posted:My local ad showed that kit + a jigsaw and a reciprocating saw for $230. Seems alright when the same ad lists each of those saws at $120 lol but on Amazon they're like half that price. I just wish they were corded instead of battery-powered. Anyway, does the receipt really not, like, prorate if you return just 1-2 things? Getting a couple of free tools is pretty tempting... You sound like a man that has never used battery powered tools.
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Jan 18, 2019 13:19
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Droo posted:How weird would it be if you hired a professional to do some work and they showed up with a plug-in drill or something. My grandfather (who was a general sort of handyman/property maintenance guy) used the same Makita 6012HD (9.6v) drills for as long as I can remember. Once he retired he went out and bought one of those full DeWalt sets, no idea why he waited that long! And the old IT service company I used to work for literally had a huge corded driver they sent out with cable guys because they couldn't be hosed to buy proper tools.
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Jan 18, 2019 13:55
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I have a corded heavy duty drill for tough jobs but that's it. I will say this, as someone with a Ryobi drill and impact driver; when my girlfriend got lucky on craigslist with an equivalent Milwaukee M18 kit it blew mine out of the water. Since then I got their M18 circular saw and it's also a beast.
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Jan 18, 2019 15:00
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The Ryobi charger does battery tending so I don’t see lifespan being much of an issue. I don’t keep it out in the garage, though.
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Jan 18, 2019 15:06
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I just bought the newest set of M18 fuel drill/driver/hacksaw and they are insanely powerful, as well as energy efficient. I can't believe how good battery powered tools have become. The drill which is like 4" long beats the crap out of my dad's big old wired drill.
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Jan 18, 2019 15:07
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I feel like a lot of people probably got a bad taste for battery units when they were relatively new and they either lacked power or stamina or both. Kind of like people who jumped on CFLs as soon as they launched and then got pissed off by the delay and swore off them until LEDs were replacing them anyway. Anyway I still use a wired drill because it works and I feel weird replacing it when the current one works just great and I'm rarely drilling stuff beyond the reach of an outlet anyway. Now a cordless jigsaw, let's talk, how good are those things now?
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Jan 18, 2019 15:23
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Cordless chainsaws are nice too, but will go through chaps like butter
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Jan 18, 2019 15:26
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Ashcans posted:I feel like a lot of people probably got a bad taste for battery units when they were relatively new and they either lacked power or stamina or both. Kind of like people who jumped on CFLs as soon as they launched and then got pissed off by the delay and swore off them until LEDs were replacing them anyway. The Milwaukee fuel ones are apparently amazing, but $200. I'm looking to get one eventually. I just picked up their M18 sander and it's great not having a cord in the way.
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Jan 18, 2019 15:29
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Jumping on battery chat 2019: Anyone have lawn tool recommendations? Bought a dirt cheap B&D string trimmer/blower set that uses a 40v battery. Battery is basically dead now after 2.5 years (full charge lasts maybe 5 minutes), and barely anything else uses this battery, so I don't want to buy a new one. Got a small lawn so don't need anything crazy... I'd like to stick with battery powered because 1) I don't want to mix oil/gas for a 2-stroke and 2) I can't justify spending big bucks on a 4-stroke string trimmer/blower for my tiny lawn. I'd like to invest in a system that has a good track record and multiple tools... seems like every brand has a different battery each year for lawn equipment, so I'm a little skeptical about the longevity.
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Jan 18, 2019 16:03
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The move to lithium ion batteries, and subsequent couple generations of improvements, really changed the game for cordless tools. Suddenly you had a battery that was fast to charge, no* memory (hi nicd), and was capable of delivering more or less as much torque as needed in a very cheap package. If you take them apart they are basically all just 18650 cells in ever growing numbers. There are precious few cases where a homeowner is going to exhaust batteries faster than the 45 minutes a charger needs to give them an 80% charge. See also the no memory issue. Are there some tools where not having a cord will bite you? Sure. But you should know your use cases ahead of time. If it's just vague notions of "but mah battery gunna die!" drop it. A battery powered Sawzall/chainsaw is fine for a lot of people. A battery powered driver is the gold standard for everyone, contractors included. * Assuming your charger has the ability to balance the cells.
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Jan 18, 2019 16:18
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I just this week picked up a 2 year old Ego mower and while I haven't used it properly yet, the guy I was buying it from was only selling it because he's downsizing to an apartment and he spoke the world of it and said that a single charge of the 5 amp battery was enough for his front and back yard still.
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Jan 18, 2019 16:24
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Ashcans posted:I feel like a lot of people probably got a bad taste for battery unit/ I treated myself to a cordless Milwaukee m18 and its awesome. I only had a hand me down black and decker before so really any modern jigsaw would be nice. It’s a little heavier because of the battery but it is well made and has nice features.
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Jan 18, 2019 17:10
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StormDrain posted:// Do you have the fuel or non-fuel one? There's a guy selling a non-fuel one locally that I'm thinking about getting but I'm worried it won't be powerful enough for some things, like sawing through 2-by if I need to.
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Jan 18, 2019 17:17
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SpartanIvy posted:Do you have the fuel or non-fuel one? There's a guy selling a non-fuel one locally that I'm thinking about getting but I'm worried it won't be powerful enough for some things, like sawing through 2-by if I need to. Non fuel. I just read a bunch of unhappy reviews of the one I have that it doesn’t cut straight up and down. I didn’t have that issue unless I was overworking and forcing a cut. YMMV. I can’t imagine using it to cut through a 2x, since I have a circular saw and Miter saw, maybe notching one but still unlikely. I don’t think it would be impossible but I wouldn’t do it more than once.
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Jan 18, 2019 18:12
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DaveSauce posted:I'd like to invest in a system that has a good track record and multiple tools... seems like every brand has a different battery each year for lawn equipment, so I'm a little skeptical about the longevity. I like the Milwaukee lawn stuff (blower/trimmer), but I'm sure you'll get some Dewalt fanboys up in here as well. They typically run a deal in the spring that includes trimmer+blower+9a/h battery for around $300. They've been sticking with their M18 platform for years, and only recently added a new 'High Output' battery for chainsaws and jobsite table saws, but it's all backwards and forwards compatible, you just won't get the same level of power with those specific tool and a non HO battery. The Ego stuff is well regarded, but I want to be able to use my batteries (the expensive part) in actual tools as well. Milwaukee tends to be more expensive than Dewalt, but IMHO the quality is slightly better and they offer a 5y warranty vs 3y for Dewalt.
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Jan 18, 2019 18:29
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Woo, just got approved for a low-interest energy efficiency loan. 3% to get all my 50s busted rear end house windows replaced  . Which of course means I have freed up my haunted house cash for other projects. One thing I have to work on is lining the particleboard/mdf shelving in the wet bar the PO built. The outside is this lovely wood but the shelves are naked and very large, and trying to put down contact paper was a disaster because they're not removable shelves and the sides of the cabinets are similarly unlined. Are there rigid/iron-on laminates I can get to finish these surfaces to make them look cleaner?
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Jan 18, 2019 19:27
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DaveSauce posted:Jumping on battery chat 2019: I used corded lawn equipment for years until I found some battery powered stuff on clearance at Walmart last year. I hate dealing with gas powered tools if I don't have to, and never had a problem with my corded stuff and a 100ft 12ga extension cord. I will say the brushless 60V battery powered stuff I bought is fantastic and I love it. Looks like it's discontinued though. It's Snapper branded, but actually manufactured by Greenworks. I can mow my front and back yard on a single 5ah batter and have 25% left over or so. the 2.5ah pack will run the trimmer and blower long enough to finish the job. If you have a tool system you're already bought into, look into using that if there are compatible batteries between the tools and yard equipment. Ryobi 40v on the lower end will get the job done, other brands are nicer but probably cost more. Keep an eye out for sales.
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Jan 18, 2019 19:45
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The Dave posted:You sound like a man that has never used battery powered tools. I did in high school but as an adult I was like "hmm I could pay extra for the battery-powered version of this but then I have to deal with batteries". I bought a corded drill in college and it's lasted me 10+ years without any maintenance, I'd surely have had to replace the battery a few times by now if it was battery-powered (and who knows if I'd even be able to continue buying batteries for it, presumably newer models come out and the old batteries become obsolete, right?)
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Jan 19, 2019 11:57
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QuarkJets posted:Anyway, does the receipt really not, like, prorate if you return just 1-2 things? Getting a couple of free tools is pretty tempting... Perhaps I was unclear. They do prorate the tools. So, for instance, if you bought the $199 kit and two $99 tools the return value for the kit will be $99 and each tool will be $49.
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Jan 19, 2019 19:11
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Anyone ever heard of studs on 22.5" centers? My garage has them which is weird. I can't find anything on Google about it and I would think it's a mistake and they were going for 24" centers but the wall is put together really well otherwise, and the rafters and other things are spaced properly.
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Jan 19, 2019 20:02
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SpartanIvy posted:Anyone ever heard of studs on 22.5" centers? My garage has them which is weird. I can't find anything on Google about it and I would think it's a mistake and they were going for 24" centers but the wall is put together really well otherwise, and the rafters and other things are spaced properly. The fact that the spacing is off by 1.5” tells me either the carpenter or you don’t know how to measure layout on centers.
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Jan 19, 2019 20:07
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New house, first time I've had an automatic garage door opener since I lived at home - it's not opening all the way at first, goes up two or three feet, stops, I hit the button it goes down again. Usually repeat once or twice and it opens fine. I don't see any obvious obstructions on the tracks, should there be anything I'm looking at short of greasing the skids?
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Jan 19, 2019 20:12
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StormDrain posted:The fact that the spacing is off by 1.5” tells me either the carpenter or you don’t know how to measure layout on centers. It's unfortunately not me. I should measure the other walls and see if it was just a one wall goof or if the entire garage is framed incorrectly.
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Jan 19, 2019 20:16
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Medullah posted:New house, first time I've had an automatic garage door opener since I lived at home - it's not opening all the way at first, goes up two or three feet, stops, I hit the button it goes down again. Usually repeat once or twice and it opens fine. I don't see any obvious obstructions on the tracks, should there be anything I'm looking at short of greasing the skids? Might be detecting high load and stopping. Disconnect your door from the opener and see if your door runs well manually and your opener runs well without the door. Your opener pulls your door from a different part than the handles so keep in mind you might have more leverage and it will be harder to detect a sticky spot. Could also turn up your jam threshold. Could also be a sensor issue. I don't think some openers consider the sensor during the beginning of the lift so your sensors may show an unsafe opening at the beginning. If it was the sensor, you'd probably see closing issues, too.
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Jan 19, 2019 20:29
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Medullah posted:New house, first time I've had an automatic garage door opener since I lived at home - it's not opening all the way at first, goes up two or three feet, stops, I hit the button it goes down again. Usually repeat once or twice and it opens fine. I don't see any obvious obstructions on the tracks, should there be anything I'm looking at short of greasing the skids? There are a few things you should do: 1. Your garage door opener should have two sets of adjustment screws (four screws). One set controls how far the door goes when it opens and closes. Your want the garage door when closing to just barely touch the floor, not slam into the floor at high speed. If it slams into the floor at high speed, when you open it it will cause vibrations that could make the motor think it's stuck and stop part way up. 2. Clean the tracks and door hinges using light machine oil or silicone spray lubricant. Do not use WD40. 3. If your tracks are all moving metal parts are clean, and the open/close distances are set correctly, then you can use the other set of adjuster screws to increase the power the motor uses to open. You don't want to do this unless you are pretty sure everything else is good though, because increasing this setting could mask a problem and cause your motor to burn out.
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Jan 19, 2019 20:42
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QuarkJets posted:I bought a corded drill in college and it's lasted me 10+ years without any maintenance, I'd surely have had to replace the battery a few times by now if it was battery-powered (and who knows if I'd even be able to continue buying batteries for it, presumably newer models come out and the old batteries become obsolete, right?) With lithiums that might not actually of been the case. My first Ryobi 18v battery came with a string trimmer I bought 8 years ago and it's still going strong. I'm sure it won't last as long as it used to but the only thing I've done recently with it that ran the battery down was using a reciprocating saw to cut some long metal pieces down short enough to fit in a trash can which is bit more demanding than running a drill I think. As of last summer it was still able to trim my previous houses yard with seemingly plenty of charge left over. Far as I know with the possible exception of Dewalt I think all of the big manufacturers have kept batteries compatible too, current Ryobi tools are even compatible with at least some of their old pre-lithium NiCads.
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Jan 19, 2019 21:02
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Droo posted:There are a few things you should do: I wonder if mine has those screws as it seems to just use sensors. Or at least, mine will happily mow down the motor if the sensor isn't closed. (Why would you make that normally open instead of normally closed so you can detect a missing sensor I don't know.) Or the same people who wired my garage setup the opener and lol so many things done incorrectly.
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Jan 19, 2019 21:06
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SpartanIvy posted:It's unfortunately not me. I should measure the other walls and see if it was just a one wall goof or if the entire garage is framed incorrectly. If this is for your new garage cabinets... I’ve got to say it again. Just sheathe the walls with plywood. You’re gonna save so much effort, once it’s up you can mount anything anywhere.
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Jan 19, 2019 23:27
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StormDrain posted:If this is for your new garage cabinets... I’ve got to say it again. Just sheathe the walls with plywood. You’re gonna save so much effort, once it’s up you can mount anything anywhere. I hear you, but I really want the strength of fresh wood, and having the supports stud mounted. Plus installing the studs will be the easy part. I may still put plywood over all of it just to make it look a little better, but I'm not to that point yet. Right now I'm trying to install some new ceiling joists because one is missing and another is shoddily repaired from cracking. It's 124" span across my single car garage, and I've already cut a 2x6 to 131" long to completely overlap the 3.5" 2x4 top plates on each side, as well as cut the corners off of each side so that it fits perfectly between the top plate and the very shallow roof (~5/12 pitch) The problem is getting it up above the top plate. If I could teleport it into place it would be perfect, but I don't physically have enough room to get it up there. According to pythagoras, the longest piece of wood I could get up there is about 125", which doesn't give me the necessary top plate lapping. I have 14.5" between rafters, and 124" from top plate to top plate. So with that said I'm looking into cutting the 2x6 joist in half, and then connecting the two pieces back together somehow. I have seen where people have connected two pieces of a joist together with some significant overlap and plenty of fasteners to form a longer run without having a load bearing wall under it, but I cannot find anything in the International Residential Code book about that method. I was also thinking I might be able to use some sort of metal strapping to rejoin the two halves after cutting, but again, I can't find anything. Anyone know what those methods are called, where I could possibly find information about them, or some other idea to get my joist(s) into place?
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Jan 20, 2019 22:10
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I discovered a solution to my problem. Since I'm using these as rafter ties and not a floor or attic, I can place them anywhere within the lower third of the space between the top plate and the ridge. So I'm just going to cut them 3.5 inches shorter on each side, and then lift them straight up into place and fix them to the rafters and not the top plate. Because I like overkill, I'll also cut some spacers to fill in the area between the rafter ties and the top plate so that any weight put on them is also distributed to the wall and not just the rafters. I plan to install a garage door opener and new garage door eventually which both will probably contribute weight to those rafter ties, and the additional support couldn't hurt.
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Jan 21, 2019 04:23
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Todays the coldest day since I've bought the house and my tenants cold water line and shower P trap are frozen. Unfortunately those two items are in a super inconvenient spot so without ripping the walls out I'm pretty much boned every time it gets this cold. None of the other pipes froze and the basement is 70 degrees so I guess I have some air intrusion between the 1st and 2nd floor 
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Jan 21, 2019 16:16
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You learn about your houses weird quirks when it gets down to single digits or below.
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Jan 21, 2019 16:29
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Yea. At least it's just one pipe. Plumber fixed it with some kind of heating device in 10 minutes. I should have checked it out so I could buy it. I love having niche gadgets
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Jan 21, 2019 17:32
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TIL that a radiator can be completely full of air and thus completely cold. The time it takes to drain it of air is stupid long if rather amusing and super effective.
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Jan 21, 2019 18:10
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I’m so cold, guys. It’s loving cold in here. I think I may need to do some insulation work.
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Jan 21, 2019 19:17
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