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So I moved in to a new house in November, now that the weather is nice I want to get this basketball hoop "up and running". Do I need to replace the rim too and get a combo? Or can I buy just a backboard? Is the mount standard? Sorry I know jack and poo poo about stuff like that ha Thanks for any help/advice.
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May 16, 2021 23:21
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Comfortador posted:So I moved in to a new house in November, now that the weather is nice I want to get this basketball hoop "up and running". Do I need to replace the rim too and get a combo? Or can I buy just a backboard? Is the mount standard? Sorry I know jack and poo poo about stuff like that ha FWIW IDk poo poo about basketball but it seems to me that so long as your rim is round and perpendicular, looks like you just need a backboard. Here are the dimensions of a backboard https://www.dimensions.com/element/basketball-backboards I'd imagine you can cut one out of plywood and paint it and itll be good enough for general fun purposes. CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 01:27 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 01:09
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Is this an okay corner to cut? I have a septic pump in my front yard. When the float gets to "turn on pump" levels during/shortly after a heavy rainstorm, it will trip the GFCI it is wired to. The GFCI and electrical box is new as I just replaced it hoping to get lucky as the previous one was >20 years old and badly corroded. This happens maybe once per month. I'd guess based on the circumstances that the wire sheathing is tired and water intrusion is allowing some leakage to ground. What I'd like to do is put in a standard outlet and some sort of efuse in case a real current leak happens. I plan to live here >10 years and this area is generally pretty lax on regulations. Any advice on cutting this corner? (It's perfectly okay to so no, gently caress you, take the septic lid off and leak test the wires and dig that poo poo up if it fails. I really REALLY don't want to as hiring people around here sucks and takes me away from running my biz or eats my weekend.)
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May 17, 2021 01:15
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CarForumPoster posted:FWIW IDk poo poo about basketball but it seems to me that so long as youre rim is round and perpendicular, lookms like you just need a backboard. Here are the dimensions of a backboard https://www.dimensions.com/element/basketball-backboards I'd imagine you can cut one out of plywood and paint it and itll be good enough for general fun purposes. I appreciate the DIY, but I'd like to actually have a legit backboard.
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May 17, 2021 01:19
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CarForumPoster posted:Is this an okay corner to cut? NO full stop; fix your wiring it is unsafe. A ground fault outlet / breaker trips when there is voltage 'leakage'. In the case like this it's very possible to energize your ground, this is not a good state to have anything operate in. Sure you have some water intrusion that ducks with your breaker, what happens when you have a low amperage leak and you go and grab the paper with bare feet and end up with a heart tickler? Edit: the power that your pump needs to start/run is probably like 800-1300watts or 8-10 amps for a 1/3hp pump. So more than enough to kill you even with your efuse idea because you'd need to set it to at least 11-13 amps. tater_salad fucked around with this message at 01:54 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 01:47
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CarForumPoster posted:Is this an okay corner to cut? Lets' start with why ground water is infiltrating your septic system. That's not okay.
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May 17, 2021 01:47
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Motronic posted:Lets' start with why ground water is infiltrating your septic system. That's not okay. Idk that it is, I’m assuming the rainwater is getting to the wiring not that the water is getting in the septic. No idea if that’s also true but it seems like a separate issue. tater_salad posted:NO full stop; fix your wiring it is unsafe. The breaker has never flipped and the difference in trips in a breaker vs GFCI is OOM in current. It seems to be 100% correlated with heavy rain. The pump runs normally without tripping the GFCI if it hasn’t rained for a month. Anyway you’re probably still correct with the answer. So how can I got about testing this? My though is to find some current limited AC output test device for dielectric breakdown and make sure the pump is off and power is off/disconnected. Then test leakage while the ground is dry. Wet it with a hose, if the load increases then there’s ground leakage. I used something similar once called a megger for some 440v motors, same thing here?
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May 17, 2021 02:22
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CarForumPoster posted:Idk that it is, I’m assuming the rainwater is getting to the wiring not that the water is getting in the septic. No idea if that’s also true but it seems like a separate issue. If it’s 100% during heavy rain, it’s clearly a intrusion issue somewhere. You don’t gently caress with electrical when there is water involved. If you don’t know the answer to how to test it, my guess is you shouldn’t be fixing it yourself and you should be hiring someone.
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May 17, 2021 02:38
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:If it’s 100% during heavy rain, it’s clearly a intrusion issue somewhere.  are you saying how I described it isn’t how it’d be done?And I don’t want to fix it myself, it’s sitting in several inches of my poo poo. I’d like to have a clear idea of the problem. Whatevs I’ll stick a multimeter between hot and ground when dry and see if it’s a real short. Spray the area down and try again. I know that won’t rule out breakdown but it may reveal a severe problem. I figure someone here might have a better method that is more specific than this and can be done at home.
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May 17, 2021 03:24
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CarForumPoster posted:The breaker has never flipped and the difference in trips in a breaker vs GFCI is OOM in current. It seems to be 100% correlated with heavy rain. The pump runs normally without tripping the GFCI if it hasn’t rained for a month. Yes I said breaker/outlet because there are outlets or breakers and they both will trip with a Ground Fault (Current leak). If you want to DIY this. Step 1 turn off breaker look at all your connections make sure they are well sealed and away from water intrusion points,, or you know call an electrician / sump to figure it out. You need to find places where the wire would be in contact with the wet ground, you don't really need to be dealing with some kind of low level electric current and testing etc.
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May 17, 2021 13:23
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We’re ripping out a LOT of lath and plaster and replacing with drywall. What’s the best place these days to get bulk sheets? Home Depot or try to find something else?
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May 17, 2021 14:25
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Drywall is stupid cheap compared to the effort it takes to move / fit / cut / install / tape / paint. Home Depot, Lowe’s, or Menards are the right places to buy. I mention the cost just to emphasize the fact that it’s silly to worry about a 10% material cost savings when you have to invest 10000x more in effort / labor to get the drat things into your walls. If you’re going to be ordering more than, say, 40 panels, I’d call ahead and confirm inventory and/or set up a custom order. DNK fucked around with this message at 14:35 on May 17, 2021 |
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May 17, 2021 14:32
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I'd get your hands on the materials before you start the work, of course. Lowe's and HD were limiting customers to a comically small number of panels and mud over the winter
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May 17, 2021 14:37
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Good to know, thanks. And yeah I can’t say I’m looking forward to the work but it needs to be done. We were hoping to move in by June but alas, we were sweet innocent summer children who just purchased our first home. The benefit though is that the previous plaster walls looked like absolute dogshit since the house had been empty for 3 years, plus we can take this opportunity to make sure there isn’t anything shady going on inside the walls.
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May 17, 2021 14:47
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Whoreson Welles posted:Good to know, thanks. And yeah I can’t say I’m looking forward to the work but it needs to be done. We were hoping to move in by June but alas, we were sweet innocent summer children who just purchased our first home. The benefit though is that the previous plaster walls looked like absolute dogshit since the house had been empty for 3 years, plus we can take this opportunity to make sure there isn’t anything shady going on inside the walls. Yeah, I'd stop before ripping out anything and get materials first. Things are not normal right now.
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May 17, 2021 14:52
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From personal experience, I would hire someone to do the taping for you, unless you know you can do it already. It takes me like 3x longer to tape than a professional, all while looking worst to boot.
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May 17, 2021 14:54
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This guy / set of videos helped me out a lot when I did my own drywallin’. I refer to him as Professor Drywall. https://youtu.be/2uFK8OGV2UM
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May 17, 2021 14:58
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Motronic posted:Yeah, I'd stop before ripping out anything and get materials first. Things are not normal right now. Whoops. Bird in a Blender posted:From personal experience, I would hire someone to do the taping for you, unless you know you can do it already. It takes me like 3x longer to tape than a professional, all while looking worst to boot. Yeah I will probably end up doing this as my in-laws have someone they’ve always used for taping in the past. I might try my hand at one or two at first given the opportunity but we have 4 full rooms to do and it would probably take me a month straight of just taping every night/weekend.
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May 17, 2021 15:57
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I needed to replace a rafter tie in my garage this weekend and the 2x6 I bought from Lowes was a pressure treated one (all the non-PT wood was warped terribly) and it was wet when I bought it. It had rained the day before so I thought it must have been outside and gotten a little damp, no big deal. Got it home and let it dry for a couple of days and then yesterday afternoon when we went to install it it still felt damp, but the humidity is high now so maybe that's why? Well I got it hung up in the rafters and when I put lag screws through it, drops of liquid got pressed out around the lag screw heads. Not good... Seems to be wetter than I assumed. Since this is pressure treated lumber, is there a chance the liquid is from the pressure treating process and not just water? Should I take this rafter tie down before it warps and takes my rafters with it and try to source a dry 2x6?
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May 17, 2021 16:05
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PT lumber will leak out "juice" when fastened. The "Pressure Treated" part is basically injecting some kind of liquid treatment into the wood with pressure. so yeah screwing downa lag bolt or even deck screws'll make the lumber leak. nothing to worry about.
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May 17, 2021 16:32
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Whoreson Welles posted:Whoops. If the walls are down in your house right now is the cheapest it will ever be to repipe, rewire, remove old low voltage horrors, and add new modern low voltage horrors. Especially repiping - what kind of pipes are in the walls right now?
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May 17, 2021 17:34
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Strong recommend for Vancouver Carpenter on YouTube if you decide to punish yourself (like me) by taking on drywalling.
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May 17, 2021 17:50
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H110Hawk posted:If the walls are down in your house right now is the cheapest it will ever be to repipe, rewire, remove old low voltage horrors, and add new modern low voltage horrors. Especially repiping - what kind of pipes are in the walls right now? Fortunately most of the pipes are fairly modern, they had half of the house ripped off to put on an addition in like 2003 and took that opportunity to install central air and replace all the old pipes. Most of the electrical is fairly new as well, they replaced the panel in the basement in 2017 and most of the feeds along with it. We only had one or two very old runs that we had to remove and replace. The walls themselves are actually pretty bare so far but we still have two rooms so go so who knows what we’ll find yet.
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May 17, 2021 18:50
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Having the ducts cleaned in the new place today. Dude was unscrewing vent covers and pulled out an XBox controller and a Dora the Explorer statue. I poo poo you not. Owning a house that someone else has lived in is nuts.
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May 17, 2021 20:41
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There's a Makita tool case in my attic, sitting on one of the soffit boards and just out of reach. One of the roofers must have set it there and then put the sheathing right over it. Someday I'll have to get a fishing hook or something to try to grab it. I assume it's empty, but maybe I'll get lucky.
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May 17, 2021 20:58
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hobbez posted:I disconnected the p trap below our bathroom vanity to install a new vanity. That drain has always been slow, and I’d always hoped to get to the bottom of it.  pics. You can’t pique our morbid curiosity like that and then leave us hanging!
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May 18, 2021 01:03
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Dross posted:
Is there a :dontpost:? plumbing contents horror shows are just gross.
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May 18, 2021 01:51
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Dross posted:
Do we really want to do this? Here's the trap from the bar sink that hasn't drained right since I bought the house 3 years ago. Drink straws, a fatberg and......stuff. 
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May 18, 2021 01:56
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You guys want to see inside of a lead bathtub drum trap that hasn't been cleaned since 1950? basically as clean as a whistle 
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May 18, 2021 03:59
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Motronic posted:I'm pretty sure I'd always choose a larger dingle basin I'm meandering through this thread as I will (hopefully  ) be a new homeowner soon but this made me chuckle loud enough to wake up my partner
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May 18, 2021 10:28
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Motronic posted:Do we really want to do this? I do find this fascinating! How does a fatberg form?
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May 18, 2021 15:09
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Dross posted:I do find this fascinating! How does a fatberg form? https://www.npr.org/sections/thetwo-way/2017/09/12/550465000/behold-the-fatberg-london-s-130-ton-rock-solid-sewer-blockage They get big. You just pour hot fat down the sink and when it cools it just becomes soils. Do that over long enough and wellllll....
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May 18, 2021 15:13
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I'm a new owner so assume my knowledge is zero on this subject (because it is zero). I'm located in NYC and have oil heating. I need to figure out a company to go with as the tank only came 1/8th full at the house. COD is not an issue for me at this time, so I don't need to worry about payment plans. Tank is above ground, but I don't know the size. It's crammed in a tiny crawlspace and I wasn't able to easily find a label yet. May be visible, but not looking to dig around there at this time. Is it worth going with one of the contracts that covers servicing the tank and furnace, or should I just be looking at best rates and stuff? No idea on the age of my tank, but looks old. Oil Furnace also doesn't have a date on it, but our inspector estimated 10-15 years due to the manufacture date stamped on it.
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May 18, 2021 19:02
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The "standard" aboveground tank is 275 gal. The filling port has a whistle system on the vent pipe so they can tell when it's full, so it's not super urgent that you figure it out. The delivery company will likely (certainly) want to inspect the tank before the first delivery. Go completely based on price and customer service for oil delivery -- decouple it from furnace service. The best price in my area is through an energy co-op where you prebuy in the fall, so check those out! (not an endorsement) Even before the prebuy, the co-op offered a discount from rack rate. KS fucked around with this message at 19:13 on May 18, 2021 |
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May 18, 2021 19:11
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Pilfered Pallbearers posted:I'm a new owner so assume my knowledge is zero on this subject (because it is zero). For the record, the only work I ever had done on my 20+ year old furnace over the 10 years we owned that house was when the drain line clogged and the HVAC guy cleared it with a can of air. If you have an HVAC guy you trust, getting them out to look at it shouldn't cost more than a couple hundo and should give you a better idea of what you're working with.
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May 18, 2021 19:13
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KS posted:The "standard" aboveground tank is 275 gal. The filling port has a whistle system on the vent pipe so they can tell when it's full, so it's not super urgent that you figure it out. The delivery company will likely (certainly) want to inspect the tank before the first delivery. Thanks for this. I actually really like the mission of NYPIRG, and even though my wife's union is probably included in the free dues tier, I may join with the donation just to support it. Their stated maximum price also seems at or below all of the other rates I saw today, and they seem to have spike protections in place which is awesome.
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May 18, 2021 19:35
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The next can of worms: anybody ever had windows replaced and can give me a ballpark of what it costs per window? We’re currently ripping out all the old lath and plaster and I figure this is our best opportunity to do the ancient inefficient windows. Just another thing I knew we would have to do but dreaded doing it.
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May 19, 2021 03:28
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Whoreson Welles posted:The next can of worms: anybody ever had windows replaced and can give me a ballpark of what it costs per window? We’re currently ripping out all the old lath and plaster and I figure this is our best opportunity to do the ancient inefficient windows. 18 windows and a sliding patio door for $16k. Milgard vinyl, midrange quality line
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May 19, 2021 03:39
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Whoreson Welles posted:The next can of worms: anybody ever had windows replaced and can give me a ballpark of what it costs per window? We’re currently ripping out all the old lath and plaster and I figure this is our best opportunity to do the ancient inefficient windows. Depends on where you are and what quality you want and what sizes they are. Not only just how BIG they are but if they are production sizes and not custom. And if you can actually use replacement windows or the old ones are so bad you need to replace more. Budget $1000 per more or less, but it's super variable.
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May 19, 2021 03:40
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Thanks for the help as usual. Mostly just looking to replace the dozen real lovely windows like this one. Bummer it might cost well above 10k but hey the house wouldn’t have been cheap if all this poo poo was recently replaced now would it? 
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May 19, 2021 04:19
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