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Fixed rate 30-year mortgages seem to be more or less unique to the United States, and are in part available because of our Freddie Mac/Fannie Mae weirdness. Everyone else is exposed to some degree to interest rate risk. The thing is, economic theory says that due to that exposure, buyers should be less willing to pay as much for the actual house; in other words, you should be compensated for your exposure to rate risk by paying less for the home. In practice I suspect borrowers in other countries are just as prone as American buyers to shortsightedness and short memories, assuming that if they can afford their payments today they will always be able to afford their payments even if interest rates double, they lose their jobs, or whatever.
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Jan 24, 2017 23:50
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I've had a basic Weber charcoal kettle grill for like 15 years and it's still completely fine. Charcoal superiority, by the way, I have a gas stove and oven in my kitchen and see no point cooking with gas outside. I use my grill when I want smoke in my food.
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Jan 26, 2017 20:01
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There is also a demographic press. This is a chart of USA population by age and sex as of July 2015.  We're used to thinking of the Baby Boomers as this big bulge in the US population, but as you can see, there's a huge group of Americans who are now about 25 years old, a sort of new "mini-boom" of Gen Ys and Millenials. And look at the section of the chart for 25-40 year olds. It's a widening wedge. That represents a growing segment of the population in their main first-house-buying years. We've just passed a period of 3 decades where the group of Americans doing their first home buying was shrinking - the contraction is seen in the general inward slope on this chart between the 55s and the 45s. So... it's not a huge effect, but in addition to the general growth of the US population, which drives increasing housing demand, there's also a demographic shift in the last decade that is going to continue, and get worse, of a larger proportion of the US population being of the age when they try to buy their first house (if they can buy a house). Lots of those 25-year-olds are still living with their parents but getting ready to move out, too. And even the ones that don't buy a house, still put pressure on the overall housing market, because homebuyers are competing with landlords and investors over a lot of similar inventory. The one additional thing was the housing crisis in 2007/8. For four or five years during and after, new home starts all but stopped completely, nationwide. But the population continued to grow, and that put serious upward pressure on both home prices and rents. Now, home construction is chugging along nicely, but in the major urban centers it's still lagging behind demand, and that's why prices keep rising. A bubble is driven by speculation - it pops when speculators lose confidence, bail, and there isn't enough non-speculator demand to prop up prices. Instead of the soft, slow fall of a market gradually shifting in supply/demand balance, it's a sudden drop. The 2008 housing bubble pop was driven by speculators bailing - not just the blatant speculators (home flippers, foreign investors, etc.) but a lot of people who didn't know they were speculating - folks with crazy balloon ARMs, liar loans, etc. and folks who found themselves in default as soon as they lost a job, even for just a month or two. You can classify those people as speculators because - despite their intentions - they were gambling on prices rising rapidly, and in no financial position to deal with even a modest fall in price. I think what we have today is mostly not a bubble. There are definitely investors speculating, there always are, but: employment is very high, the liar loans are all but gone, interest rates are so low that nobody in the last 8 years has needed or wanted a crazy balloon ARM, and of course, the federal government also took steps to force the banks to maintain larger margins of error (essentially to recapitalize and disallow as severe leveraging behavior as was permitted before). So prices aren't guaranteed to keep rising. But I think they're very unlikely to suddenly fall by a lot. In the most desirable cities where the prices are rising the fastest, a recession and rise in unemployment would soften the market, and prices might even fall for a few years. But not by 30% or higher like we saw in 2008. Rising interest rates if there is no recession (the FED will not raise rates during an actual recession) should also soften the market somewhat, but again, I do not think by a great deal. The demographic forces at work are too strong. America needs millions more homes, mostly in the most desirable cities where employment is strong and wages rising the fastest, and even if we have a serious correction and recession in the next few years, there will be no foreclosure crisis, no huge price drop, and no major banks will be in danger of folding.
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Jan 27, 2017 08:31
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Nest is not universally acclaimed. There is or used to be a thread around here somewhere - maybe in DIY? - with a former fire marshal and some other guys who could go into detail about the pros and cons of different systems. Ah, right, here it is: Don't let your house burn down: fire protection and detection thread. Nobody has posted in it for two years but it hasn't hit the archives yet (Lol at the DIY subforum) and in any case, it's only three pages and worth a quick read to mine for info. Motronic is still around and a regular poster so you could send him a PM maybe. e. Oh, that thread is "locked for archiving" so I guess you can't still post in it but yeah give it a read. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:45 on Jan 27, 2017 |
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Jan 27, 2017 20:38
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The thing to take away from all this is that you should never pay extra for property on the basis of its view. Views are nice, but you don't own them and don't have to be compensated when they're taken away.
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Feb 1, 2017 21:45
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Which one of you loses big-time when the property price bubble pops and the home loses half of its value? Because I'm guessing it's the one who paid the entire deposit. You put up 100% of the money up front, you are taking 100% of the risk and therefore should start at 100% ownership. Her interst in the property should accumulate only as the equity (not interest!) she pays as a percentage of the total equity paid over time grows... and if the propery value changes, her equity should decline first because she didn't risk any of her capital. In other words, you buy the home, and gradually sell her an interest in the propery. If you structure the deal that way, you might be ok.
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Feb 21, 2017 09:57
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Aerosealing is a real thing, and lots of people's ductwork is poorly sealed which wastes tons of energy. http://homeenergypros.lbl.gov/profiles/blogs/does-aeroseal-work-an-auditors-review According to this, it's generally not cost effective compared to going into an attic and actually finding and sealing leaky ducts. But probably cheaper than tearing open walls, ceilings, floors, etc., so a lot depends on your construction. It also only lasts 10 years. e. read the comments, though. There's a decent back and forth talking about the various criticisms. I'd say if you have no huge leaks and you're getting the aeroseal for free, that's a tremendous deal you should absolutely jump on. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Feb 22, 2017 |
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Feb 22, 2017 20:38
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The most important use of compromised IoT devices is to contribute to DDOS attacks. I've also heard of them being used for other botnet stuff. I have no idea if IoT cameras specifically are useful for that, but, the point here is that it's not really about someone wardriving around looking for cameras to snoop on, it's someone running scripts online to compromise tens of thousands of similar devices in order to gain control of a big network of controlled internet nodes. https://www.technologyreview.com/s/602994/iot-botnets-are-growing-and-up-for-hire/ If you have an IoT device, the reponsible thing to do is secure it. The device provider ought to be selling devices that are secure out of the box, but they're not doing a good job of that, so customers have to take some responsibility. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Mar 13, 2017 |
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Mar 13, 2017 17:30
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Buy a $50 propane grill at a garage sale and try grilling this summer. If you are still bothering to do it in six months, then spend the $500+ for a nice one.
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Apr 2, 2017 17:53
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I would say those webers are worth it, if you're really using them. I only indicated caution because I think the large majority of the public buys a grill for the purpose of aspirational grilling, but hardly ever use it and once it gets rusty sitting out in the weather for a few years, it loses most of its resale value. $500 buys at least like five really nice home-delivered barbecue meals for a family so if you use your grill once or twice a year, it's likely not worth it. But if you use it regularly, as a cooking appliance $500 can be a bargain.
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Apr 2, 2017 22:06
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MrYenko posted:What, you don't like having a thin coating of partially-polymerized rancid pork fat coating everything within six feet of your range? The best part is how that grease then absorbs a layer of dust, lint, cat hair, etc. which creates a nice super high surface area for the next layer of grease! ...This is also why I never want exposed shelves in my kitchen. It's much nicer just cleaning cabinet doors, rather than emptying every cupboard and washing everything you own, and the shelves, every six months or whatever. I installed a range hood but the fan is weaksauce. My dad bought the hood for me as a gift so I didn't get to pick out one with a good fan. Replacing the fan is somewhere in the high 30s on the Home Owner Things I Need To Fix One Of These Days list, though, so for now we just deal.
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Apr 3, 2017 03:11
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QuarkJets posted:My wok is cast iron. It's heavy as gently caress but it feels amazing to cook with it. You should mention this whenever you talk about your wok cooking, because like 99% of people reading your post are going to think you're discussing a normal steel wok or possibly a nonstick/electric wok, and they are not going to get the same results as you.
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Apr 4, 2017 19:42
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:What's everyone budget for their yearly household maintenance separate from emergency fund? Like, 1% of purchase price per year? I made a long effortpost about this recently, but I'll summarize: how much your maintenance will cost varies massively with the condition, size, construction style, and (especially) age of your home, and the cost of labor and materials where you live. There is no general rule of thumb that will be useful to everyone.
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Apr 12, 2017 17:32
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Found the post I made (in the home buying thread)Leperflesh posted:10% annually in maintenance costs is way too high for a home that isn't so bad it's close to being condemned. 1-2% annually is a much more reasonable budget for a reasonably modern and decent condition house.
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Apr 12, 2017 17:46
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QuarkJets posted:We know that we will have to replace the AC, a fence, and probably the roof in the next 5 years. But we don't allocate anything into separate budgets, we each keep $5-10k in checking and put all of our extra money into mutual funds. If the stock market totally collapses then we're mostly screwed but it seems like we would be facing bigger problems before that would occur... Probably If you each have $10k in cash, that's a $20k emergency fund which should probably cover you for most big house things unless you have a really big expensive house. I think $10k probably isn't enough for most people, but it really depends on your other liquid/semi-liquid assets, your available credit, the other kinds of emergencies you need to be prepared for, etc. And the risk isn't that your mutual funds become "worthless" but rather that you're forced to sell to cover an emergency at a moment when the market is temporarily down by a lot. You could wind up swallowing a 25% loss of your money just because you needed it that particular month. You might not be financially ruined, but it'd be an ugly cost to swallow. As general advice for everyone: Your long-term retirement savings should be diversified and as tax advantaged as you can get it. "Mutual funds" does not tell us much or anything about your actual diversity. If it's entirely stocks, that's not sufficiently diverse - you should certainly have at least a little in bonds, for example. I suggest if you want advice on that, check the long-term investing and retirement thread. For medium-term investing - and by this I mean any money you might need in the next ten years - being entirely in stocks is probably too risky. The risk here is volatility. A medium-term investment is probably for some planned large expense, right? Like, say, buying a house, or a child's college tuition fund, or you know that in 10-15 years you're going to need $20k for a major renovation, or something like that. For a planned expense with a known year, you are just taking a huge risk that just before that expense, the market is in retraction and you wind up having to "sell low" to pay for it. But there are plenty of options that lie between the crappy interest on a savings account, and the volatility risk of a stock-based mutual fund. You could invest in CD ladders, bonds/bond funds, or perhaps a mix of stocks/bonds/money market that you frequently rebalance. Each year that you get closer to that known expense date, you should adjust your risk downward, so that when you're (say) one year away from the big expense you should be in all cash at that point, or whatever. Putting your medium-term money into medium-risk positions lets you be flexible, too. If you decide that you aren't going to have that big expense after all (your kid is going to go into a trade instead of university; you decide you're selling your house instead of building an addition; you decide not to buy a house after all) you can move this money into more aggressive investments and recategorize it as part of your long-term/retirement funding. The one universal key point in all of the above is that you should never attempt to time the market. There's a whole lot of research and evidence that people are actually worse at timing the market than a device that buys and sells at random... that is to say, on average, people attempting to time the market do worse than if they'd just let their money ride. You can't predict when the next bull or bear market will happen, or how long it will last, or how the gains or losses will be distributed across asset classes. The only smart thing to do is to take advantage of the long-term trend (over the last century, markets have generally gone up) and protect yourself from short-term trends (if you need your money in the next 10 years, it should not be exposed to much market risk, period). Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 17:07 on Apr 13, 2017 |
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Apr 13, 2017 17:03
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I'm not actually endorsing the brand but I went in whole-hog on Ryobi. They make a weed whacker that is a "hybrid" - it runs on a battery pack, or you can plug it in. Definitely more power and speed when it's plugged in, but you can stick in a battery for work where a cord would be inconvenient. Ryobi is actually Home Depot's house brand or something? I have a buddy who had a really bad experience with their batteries and has sworn off them forever, but I've had no problems at all. I did find that the small battery that came with the weed whacker wasn't quite enough to do my whole lawn edging etc. in one charge, but since I also got a Ryobi drill and sawsall (a buy one get one free deal on the small tools, so together they cost like $75), each of which came with a small battery, I went ahead and ordered a large battery with another charger. The big one lasts like three or four times longer, and having two chargers and four batteries means I never ever run out. Ryobi is cheap and not a premium brand. But if you're just doing some basic home maintenance and repair stuff and light yard/garden work, I think it's probably fine and costs a lot less than the equivalents from better brands like Makita. And I think it rates a little higher in quality than like black & decker (which is absolute garbage tier). Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 17:40 on Apr 17, 2017 |
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Apr 17, 2017 17:38
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The Dave posted:You're thinking of Rigid. Ah yeah that's right. Anyway you can't get Ryobi at Lowes, but Home Depot always has tons of Ryobi stuff. e. Actually wikipedia says RIDGID is a subsidiary of Emerson Electric and nothing about being owned by Home Depot so maybe I was just told something wrong by a random Lowes employee.
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Apr 17, 2017 17:51
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Thufir posted:I think I have the same weed-whacker (entering its 3rd season) and it's pretty ok. Haven't ever actually needed to use it corded because my yard is pretty small and the battery charges pretty quickly. Trust me on this. Do a little trimming with it on battery, and then plug it in and give it a whirl. It's eye-opening.
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Apr 17, 2017 22:02
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Or siphon out the fuel and put it into one of your vehicle gas tanks. It might be a bit off but if you mix it with most of a tank of regular gasoline it'll be fine. Alternatively, fill it up most of the way and add some gas stabilizer to it.
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Apr 18, 2017 18:20
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DTaeKim posted:Getting a couple of quotes for insulation. Ask them. It could just be a huge markup, or, it could be one company employs undocumented migrant labor and uses salvaged construction scraps while the other company does inspected permitted work with well-trained employees paid a living wage. EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:Ugghhh we are in the process of finding someone to go about tearing up the lovely old laminate and installation carpet from the house and I think have settled on LVT. I don't have the time, energy or patience to do it myself. Is $5 a square foot, installed with removal and disposal of the original flooring a fair price for a project ~ 750 square feet? Labor costs vary massively from one area to the next, so it can be very hard for people in this thread to say if a price is good or not. Your best bet is to ask people in your immediate area who have had the same work done, or - hey, this is the reason to get multiple bids. And then not just go with the lowest bidder, but actually ask higher bidders why their bid is higher and see if they give you a bullshit response or if they can document better quality.
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Apr 20, 2017 02:51
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what about that spray foam stuff
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Apr 24, 2017 23:51
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Some combination of pumps and gutters and drainage pipes and french drains and so forth. Get a shovel and start digging channels out and arrange things so you can hopefully just one sump pump in one spot where it won't be like pumping right under your bedroom at night, and the water will then all flow downhill via your elaborate miniature aquaduct system into the right hole. e. You might also be able to do with just a "drywell" which is basically a big hole in the ground that you dump your water into. This may or may not be an option depending on what your water table is doing and what the layers of soil are like. http://www.easydigging.com/Drainage/drywell_soakaway.html
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Apr 26, 2017 02:30
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If you guys haven't actually measured the angle of your slope, how do you know it's 45 degrees? Because that's very, very steep. Steep enough that your knees tend to buckle trying to walk down it. Just as an example, Lombard street in San Francisco has switchbacks because otherwise it'd be 27% grade which is too steep for vehicles. A 27% grade is a 15 degree slope. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Apr 30, 2017 |
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Apr 30, 2017 19:59
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If you have a lot of trees you need to mow around it can get a little inconvenient. I only have one tree in my front and back yards I need to mow around and it's no big deal, but I wouldn't love weaving in between like five of them or something.
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May 3, 2017 00:20
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search for "thorn proof gloves", and get the elbow-length ones. something like this: https://www.amazon.com/NoCry-Resistant-Protection-Reinforced-Fingertips/dp/B01LB3IM7W
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May 7, 2017 19:34
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paternity suitor posted:Who fucks with the smart home stuff? I'm looking to make my home a nerd home. here ya go buddy Home Automation and Security Systems
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May 13, 2017 18:48
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Do you care about security, or is insulation your only concern?
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May 19, 2017 17:37
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We wanted a side-by-side with water and ice dispenser, but we also had to fit it into a space slightly narrower than standard. (The space itself is fine, but there's a doorframe on the left, so the left-opening door has no clearance unless we got a fridge 3 inches narrower than usual). That basically narrowed our choices down to one fridge from GE. But it's been a really good fridge so far. So I think a GE fridge is fine. There were reviews about it being noisy but uh, those are idiots who have never had a fridge that makes ice before, becuase yes if you use some ice then it is going to make batches of ice and dump them into the ice bin until the bin is full again. More generally then I'd say be careful with reviews about refrigerators because people are loving morons.
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May 21, 2017 20:07
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You can and should run the fan to circulate air without having the heat on.
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May 24, 2017 00:20
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Elysium posted:So the house that I bought has a pond... what do I do to get this thing running with some fish? That's nowhere near enough volume of water to keep fish alive. The issue is the temp swings on hot days vs. cold days. With so little water, the water temp will change very fast. Make the pond five times bigger, or just use it to grow plants (and mosquitoes). e. Just to be clear, you can totally put some small goldfish in there. They sell feeder fish at the pet store for very very cheap. Just don't expect them to live especially long. Also they will be raccoon food unless your yard is totally secure from raccoons (and cats).
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May 27, 2017 00:17
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One more thing to keep in mind is that there are tons of solar companies right now, but the market is very likely to consolidate over the next decade. Meaning, many companies will either go out of business or be bought by their competitors. Make sure you understand what will happen to you if the company you are working with isn't around in five or ten years.
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May 30, 2017 19:03
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The "hippy dippy" solution is orange oil, which is actually a kind of nasty fuckin' acid that will kill the poo poo out of the bugs and should not be treated as if it's OK to just eat and rub on your face or whatever just because it comes from citrus. On the other hand, it won't poison the hell out of the environment, kill off honey bees, or maybe give your kids cancer in 40 years or something, and it's a pretty clean chemical to manufacture and dispose of, so definitely go for it instead of the other options if it makes sense. The key thing though is that orange oil is a spot treatment. If your house needs to be tented and fumigated, then you gotta do that instead. Orange oil is a contact killer that doesn't last very long (less than a week) so it's only useful if the exterminator can identify all of the infested areas and treat them directly with the orange oil.
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Jun 1, 2017 01:56
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The huge sycamore in my front yard was planted directly on top of my sewer line, and is very large and therefore very expensive to have removed. It's also a riparian tree: that means it wants to grow along a river, its roots seek the water, and it wants plenty of water. I'm in Concord, CA, which is hot and dry all summer and so my tree is always looking kind of crap and bare because gently caress if I'm going to flood my "lawn" three times a week just to water this drat tree. I hope it dies and falls over into the street so I can just make an insurance claim and be rid of it. That's not going to happen though, so probably sooner or later I will have to either cough up like ten grand to have it removed, or pay the probably only six to eight grand to have a completely new sewer line routed not under the tree or else pay for trenchless sewer line replacement under the tree. I'm hoping I can just continue to get away with $160 every 1-2 years having the roots in the sewer line cleaned out. Maybe we'll sell the house eventually and it'll be someone else's problem. Meanwhile, a year after we moved in we had a tree up against the foundation removed, and now that side of the house shifts a tiny bit between winter and summer as the clay expands and contracts, so we have cracks that open and close (only maybe 1mm wide at the worst, nothing threatening the structure, but ugly and annoying). Trees can really suck. Plant climate appropriate (ideally native) trees well set back from your house.
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Jun 5, 2017 04:08
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Sab0921 posted:We thought we did a good job at our apartment keeping up with the dog hair with sweeping and a cordless Dyson that we would run once a day. When we moved out we realized that the hair settled in every square inch of the house it possibly could. I think Im going to get a Roomba and set it to run twice a day or something. I have owned a roomba and while I have cats not dogs, this plan of yours is going to not work. Every time the roomba runs you have to open it up and dump out the container and then use tools to remove hair wrapped around the spinning thingy and use the special brushes to clean it etc. Meanwhile you'll have to keep your floors clutter-free so they don't get stuck somewhere and even then they'll probably get stuck somewhere. The things seem like they'll be huge time savers but the reality is you'll spend almost as much time taking care of them as you would just vacuuming normally.
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Jun 6, 2017 17:28
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I will say though, the scooba is cool. Unlike the roomba if you're just mopping in a room that is already swept regularly, like say a kitchen: fewer obstacles to get stuck behind, and mostly you just dump out the tanks and fill the tanks. Way less annoying maintenance and it's nice to schedule it to mop during a time when the floor can dry for an hour without any foot traffic going through. The disadvantage at least with the scooba we have is that it doesn't really scrub horrible stuff off the floor, like it is not going to help if someone stepped on a raisin last week and it's been stuck in the grout between two tiles since then. For light mopping it works great but you will still need to own a good scrubby mop to use occasionally. Lately I've been eyeballing those standup combo steam cleaner/vacuum cleaner things. I want one that does both carpets and hardwood floors.
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Jun 6, 2017 18:39
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Yeah one of my cats is a loving idiot who only sticks his rear end into the catbox, shits, and then charges away at full tilt. Sometimes this process involves ejection of leftover turdlets  Another of my cats is sufficiently vigorous with the digging in the catbox that sometimes she tosses a buried turd out onto the floor. Basically cats are very clean and fastidious creatures and they're more or less instinctively housetrained as long as they know where a catbox is... but they're still just animals and they do not actually care if they get poo poo on your floor. The key to cat ownership is to clean that up immediately and thoroughly, and if you do actually have an incontinent cat or your cat is deliberately marking or making GBS threads where it shouldn't, there is a medical or behavior dysfunction that you need to address.
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Jun 7, 2017 23:18
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Paint feels like such a huge scam to me. Like $35 a gallon for paint is a good price? It probably costs all of fifty cents a gallon to manufacture. brb starting a new paint company
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Jun 23, 2017 19:34
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BusinessWallet posted:it's our sidewalk. Really? The sidewalk is on your property? In most places a sidewalk is public property and a public right of way. Are you, for example, responsible for repairing the sidewalk if it's damaged?
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Jun 29, 2017 19:12
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LogisticEarth posted:Yes, and this isn't just a Philly thing, it's been like this wherever I've lived. Maintenance, snow removal, etc. are often or always on the property owner. We just had a big to-do at a town near me because the city was planting a bunch of free sidewalk shade trees, and a significant portion of residents were threatening to cut them down because they didn't want to be liable for their sidewalk repairs not the roots caused heaving. ...Huh. That seems really stupid and wrong, but I guess it means not paying taxes to pay for sidewalk maintenance.
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Jun 29, 2017 19:50
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LogisticEarth posted:If I recall correctly, you're in California? Might be confusing you with another regular poster though. If so, state law is the same, that cities are not by default liable for sidewalk maintenance: Weird. Well, thanks for the info! Yeah I'm in California. Recently (in the last couple years) the city went round my neighborhood and ground down every place where a sidewalk segment had lifted, making them flat and eliminating the tripping hazard. We weren't notified or anything, they just did it. But I just checked and my city ordinance does indeed make me responsible for the maintenance and repair of my sidewalk. There's a special program to help with doing repairs, cool cool. But also I maintain this is dumb. Leaving repairs up to individual property owners is a recipe for having poorly maintained segments of sidewalk all over the loving place. I'd far rather every property owner pay a modest tax to a fund that just proactively repairs and maintains sidewalks everywhere. It's like the definition of a commons.
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Jun 29, 2017 20:21
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