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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

It's not just from here, but elsewhere I'm hearing things like this too. I'm not sure Sherwin post Texas-freezepocalypse (which took out their main facility) is the same as it was before.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Jesse Ventura posted:

There has been some tangential discussion of this in the last 10 pages (specifically: rates affected by California wildfire zones), but I have a question for the thread: has anyone outside fire/flood areas seen their homeowners insurance go way up? I live in Salt Lake City and my rate went up 43% this year. Several (but not all) of my friends in the area report getting similar increases.

The insurance payment is in escrow and our mortgage broker says that somehow we are still getting the best deal available for our coverage. The insurance company basically told me tough titties. Is this a regional or widespread phenomenon?

Eastern PA, not in a flood plane, nothing particularly risky going on: my rates are up slightly, not much. Hear the same form others. But, people looking for new policies are getting shafted hard. My insurance broker told me most of his companies closed their books/aren't offering new policies. Those that are are 50% or more higher. Based on chatter from locals, including my sister who just had an offer accepted so is shopping for policies, this seems to be the way thing are around here now. I'm guessing they aren't raising the rates as quickly on existing policies because state law or something else doesn't allow them to, otherwise why wouldn't they?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

That seems clear, but why?

I would expect rates to be up. They are covering losses to, primarily, your home (in most cases the rest of the porperty can't really have significant to repair losses). You have seen the increase in the cost of materials and heard about how expensive and difficult to find contractors are so pretty much......that. They are largely required to "make you whole" again, so when damage to the covered asset costs more to repair they have to charge more.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Dobbs_Head posted:

We recently installed mini split units on our house.

Be specific: "I/me and my whatever bought and self-installed mini splits" is going to have wildly different advice from "I hired someone to install mini splits".

Dobbs_Head posted:

This system has an intermittent hissing noise that seems to be coming from the refrigerant loop. It’s particularly loud at the compressor.

Video with sound.

This doesn’t seem normal and I’m worried it’s a sign that there is low refrigerant or air in the lines but am looking for other opinions.

Sounds like a restriction. I'd go back to "how were these installed"? There are a lot of ways to contaminate the lines and cause issues that sound like that. It's also possible the equipment was bad out of the box.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Dobbs_Head posted:

We hired a professional HVAC company licensed and insured in my state to perform the installation with all required permits and inspections. It’s within the warranty period. I reached out to the company who did the installation, my experience with them is that they try to downplay customer concerns and tell us things are “normal” when they are not so I am looking for language, descriptions, and such that I can use to make them fix it.

"It's making this noise. I've never heard that from a mini split before, nor has anyone else I've talked to who has had min isplits. Something is not right and I need it made right." You don't need technical language, you need to be firm as a part of a business transaction that has not been completed to your satisfaction.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

illcendiary posted:

Legitimate question: what’s the right course of action if a contractor does lovely work, you contact them and ask them for rework, and they blow you off/tell you to kick rocks? Sue them?

I’ve been lucky to have mostly positive experiences with contractors so far, just want to know what steps to take if it ever comes to that.

If they stop engaging you write a demand letter and send it certified mail. Past that you're asking your municipality for help if they require contractor registration and a perofrmance bond/have requirements for the permittited work you're having an issue with or you go straight to a lawyer.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Dunno how old you are or where, but the type of unkilled no-experience labor around here is being satisfied largely by illegals hired for the day in the home depot parking lot every morning at 6 AM. Doesn't seem like the kind of business someone with a social security number would want to persue.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Cyrano4747 posted:

It's also very, very physically intensive labor of the kind best left to 18-22 year olds or people who have been doing it their whole lives and are used to it. I can totally understand why a bunch of people who do that for a living laugh a bit at a mid-30s office worker saying he's going to pull an Office Space and do a mid-career jump to construction.

I'll also add that a lot of the work done by people first starting out is the really backbreaking crap that the older guys either don't want to do any more or find too physically taxing to do if they can avoid it. I know my early 40s rear end certainly wouldn't do well having to do the kind of grunt work you throw an apprentice in their first year.

That's what I was getting at with age. My first construction job as a teenager was working for a local family contractor - dad and his son. Great guys, but I didn't know poo poo about poo poo so I spent 3 weeks carrying 55 gallon trash cans of demo-d out plaster down 2 and 3 floors and out to a dumpster. All day. Then I was carrying heavy sheet stock up those same stairs for the next week or so. When I finally "moved up" to being put in the pit around the newly poured basement with a roller and abucket of tar it felt like a vacation.

trevorreznik posted:

My uncle was in his 40s working a dead end job and managed to join the local electrical union and get training + paid + a career doing that, all in this century. Might want to look into any union work and apprenticeships. The skills he picked up doing electrical construction transfered to working on his house as well as his kids places.

That's awesome, and I've absolutely never heard of it. I suppose we're at the point where there are so few people in the skilled trades that some unions see no other choice but to take people mid career that want to switch. But a 40 year old doesn't have a lot of knees and back left for a long trade career - that's why they typically haven't taken on older people as apprentices. By the time you're 50 you better be running your own crew or business or it's gonna be a rough retirement.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Yes, this is where windows are supposed to (and often aren't) insulated. It make a huge difference.

You want to use the blue spray foam - low expansion. The regular or high ex stuff will bend the window frames and make it so you can't operate them.

Bonus point for caulking your trim once that gets put on.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Potato Salad posted:

Never in my life have I moved a fridge anywhere near as heavy as the Samsung dual evaporator fridge I just got slightly used today. What the gently caress are they putting in there, iron shot?

If "dual evaporator" means two complete sealed systems (like subzeros) that makes a lot of sense. They are putting two sealed systems into them as well as more of everything else.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Cyrano4747 posted:

Are those battery powered chainsaws good enough to take down and break up a small tree? Figure ~15 feet tall with a trunk that's ~8-10 inches at the base and branches out into a broad crown about 3.5 feet off the ground. Average branch width is probably 2-3 inches with two big branch/trunk forks that are about 4 inches where I"d need to cut them. The thing is dead as poo poo, I can pull huge branches off by hand, and really I just need to get it down and broken up so I can do something else with that patch of yard.

I want to emphasize that it's physically impossible for this tree to hit any structure.

If you have a sufficient sized one, sure. They work great just not long - that's the battery trade off. Your brances are no problem and what I would use my little one for (8" bar?). The actual trunk is pushing it and would require knowing how to safely cut a trunk larger than your bar. It's do-able but I'd take out a larger (gas) saw simply because I have one available. A larger battery of plug in electric would take it down no problem.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Cyrano4747 posted:

I'm trying to avoid gas just because I don't have any other gas appliances and don't want to gently caress with storing it. The last gas thing was a hedge trimmer that I gave away a few years ago, and I really don't miss any of that.

Occasional use by homeowners stuff is absoutely thew sweet spot for batteries. You'll rarely suffer from it not running long enough and you aren't dealing with the storage and maintenance concerns of gas equipment (especially in the age of ethanol gas). You're not gonna see pros switching to battery electric saws and trimmers any time soon, but that's a very different application.......and most of the bucket truck based guys are now running hydraulic saws anyway which can theoretically be repowered/hybridized when battery tech makes it feasible.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Homeownership.jpg:


Yes, the windshield is completely shattered/spidered up. No, I can't tell how/why. It's been sitting outside of the barn right there unused for at least 3 days. I have no idea when that happened.

Guess I'm about to find out what my insurance deductible is on that thing.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

CarForumPoster posted:

Sweet tractor and cool if annoying mystery. Any chance of a BB gun ricochet or similar? Has it been super hot and parked in the sun follow by rain (large temp diff across glass layers)?

Definitely not any possibility of BB ricochet, it's just too far away from anyone/anything else that could cause that. It's been in the 80s which is a lot wamer than it has been, but nothing out of the ordinary.

PainterofCrap posted:

Sounds like it had a chip somewhere & temperature changes did their thing.

Or a wayward bird hit is in juuuust the right (wrong) spot

I assume it has to be something like that. It looks like it comes from one spot on the side radiating out:



...but there is nothing of consequence there that I can see.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

PainterofCrap posted:

Oh, that's right at the left edge, and radiating from a single point.

Guessing that either the edge was chipped at some point between manufacture and install, or something hard got wedged in there.

Yeah, could be interesting to see if there's any kind of defect on the frame when it's replaced. I have no idea how this shakes out - I'm not going to move it and if the insurance company(KTAC)/Kubota dealership that will fix it wants to that's on them. I'd prefer the work gets done here. It shouldn't be hard - a single wiper and a piece of glued in glass.

(this tractor is worth more than my car lol)

e: okay, this may not be something worth claiming when I can clean it up in a few hours and glue in a $362 part with a $40 tube of window weld.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 03:35 on May 2, 2024

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

dalstrs posted:

I'm going to disagree. You deal with the NG install once. You'll be dealing with an ugly propane bottle after every X amount of usage. Switching from a propane grill to an NG one has made me use it 5x more.

As someone who has this setup I completely agree.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

PainterofCrap posted:

Unless it glitches (tree times in the past year) I do not have to do that.

This is how I operate the Bosch 800:

https://i.imgur.com/ewA6AzR.mp4

Seriously.....what else is there to do? I don't understand the confusion unless their dishwasher is actually broken.

Hadlock posted:

I dunno if I have enough patience to stare at a blinking clock that long every time I start the dishes



Bosh Benchmark supremacy. Not just a red light, a projected rotating status display on your floor. So useful. I take my dishwasher status very seriously.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Sweeper posted:

If I don’t push the start button and close fast enough my Bosch beeps at me like it’s annoyed, so maybe close your dishwasher faster?

Oh, the dissonant "YOU HAVE DONE IT INCORRECTLY AND WILL BE PUNISHED" dissonate tone? Yeah, that's what happens when you close it when on and "clean" or any time after it's been clean but still "on". It's really excessive. You can just turn it off and that will stop happening.

There's probably a menu item to turn that off somewhere. I should look for it.

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