Homeowners: I own 8 different power saws, primarily to attract a mate.

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Ask/Tell > Business, Finance, and Careers > Homeowners: I own 8 different power saws, primarily to attract a mate.

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Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Motronic posted:

This assumes a properly installed system first, so it's going to be meaningless for the OP.

They need to start with an airflow test to make sure enough air is making it to each register and to the returns. This is going to require a professional. This professional should be saying things like "Manual J" when you speak to them.

Also, one should always start with insulation and air sealing when it comes to performance problems with heat/cool. It could be really that simple (or not simple if insulation was missed or improperly installed in places).

Would the rest of the paragraph I typed that you cut off would be a valid way for a layman to check this on a new system?

quote:

Or go out to the condenser and feel the refrigerant pipe as it goes into the unit - it should be ice cold. If there is a low level of refrigerant it will feel warm.

# ¿ May 19, 2017 19:53

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# ¿ May 16, 2024 08:20

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Motronic posted:

The point of what I posted was "no".

If it's improperly installed (i.e., insufficient airflow across the condenser) it will cause all manner of symptoms that could look/feel like a refrigerant quantity issue to someone who doesn't have gauges and thermometers with the knowledge to use them.

If the refrigerant pipe near the condenser is warm when the unit is running, what could cause that besides a low level of refrigerant?

# ¿ May 19, 2017 21:09

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Fancy_Lad posted:

At what point does one decide to replace their HVAC system rather than keep repairing it?

We have a Trane 1100 from 94 (23 years for those counting) that since we have purchased the home has ended up costing us a couple hundred and the associated annoyance of the system not working every 2-3 years. Well this season the compressor fan has died on us and we are being quoted $500 to replace it. The tech also found that the blower on the furnace was wobbling due to a loose bolt that he tightened up, but said it is stripping out and will probably cause a failure at some point in the future (not suggesting to do anything on that at this point).

I went ahead and had him start a quote for a new system if for no other reason than to get an idea of what to expect and told him I'll let him know what way we decide to go on it.

Do folks proactively replace at all? Wait for a major failure that is a couple thousand? What's the right mindset?

I would replace that unit because I would expect it to start having $500+ problems pretty much every year once the unit is more than 15 years old. The annualized installation cost of a new system expected to last another 15 years is probably only $200-$300, plus the new unit should run more efficiently and save you some money there.

# ¿ May 20, 2017 00:42

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Woof Blitzer posted:

So for anyone not saving money each month for repairs... I just had to loan a parent $4000 to get a new dishwasher and water heater. Plan for that poo poo.

That seems like an awful lot of money for those two things

# ¿ May 27, 2017 00:30

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

QuarkJets posted:

I've never really understood the upsides/downsides of tankless. It seems like a cool thing but if it's so great then why does everyone seem to have a tank?

You need to have a special exhaust vent as well as a bigger than normal natural gas pipe for a tankless water heater. In my house for example, I would have to run about 80 feet of new gas piping right across the entire front of my house somehow so it's not worth it at all and I stick with a traditional heater.

# ¿ Jun 13, 2017 02:05

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Thesaurus posted:

Maybe my house is just small and easily monitored, but I don't find much hassle in replacing a couple batteries a couple times a year, at most.

You are forgetting that the Millennial generation is so lazy it spawned a service to move your garbage cans from the side of your house to the street on garbage day.

http://www.trashday.co/

# ¿ Jun 15, 2017 22:08

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

RICHUNCLEPENNYBAGS posted:

You know, this is my usual answer, but $750 is much cheaper than potential home repair stuff. However I'd look at the exclusions pretty carefully at the very least. It probably still isn't a good deal.

A warranty company will fix things in the shittiest way possible using the cheapest (and arguably therefore not the greatest) contractor.

# ¿ Jun 19, 2017 02:08

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Cannon_Fodder posted:

Guys, is there a consensus of whether it's worth getting a paint sprayer? I just closed and I am not in love with a bright yellow living room or half the other goddamn rooms.

I don't know if there's a consensus, but I would never spray inside my house because it makes a huge mess. Just buy some rollers.

As far as paint brands, I use both Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore and they are both good quality paints.

# ¿ Jun 23, 2017 17:48

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Leperflesh posted:

Paint feels like such a huge scam to me. Like $35 a gallon for paint is a good price? It probably costs all of fifty cents a gallon to manufacture.

brb starting a new paint company

There is a huge difference between lovely paint and good paint, so they must be doing something different that is too expensive for the cheap brands to bother with. Otherwise lovely home depot paint for $10 a gallon should be just as good.

# ¿ Jun 23, 2017 19:52

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Problem! posted:

The sales lady looked at me like a deer in the headlights when I asked about furnace capacity the other week and came back quoting me the $4800 one.

It's a 1500 sq foot ranch (or "rambler" as they call them here) with a 1500 sq ft basement.

Is the furnace already installed? If not I would think you could just upsize it by 25-50% and add some duct work in the basement, and you would get like 80% of the way to perfect without much effort or extra cost.

Ideally you would want a couple vent blocker things installed that you could change between summer and winter (so you cool upstairs more in the summer, and heat downstairs more in the winter).

If it's already installed you could probably do the same thing by adding some duct work. If the furnace is in the basement, you could probably find a competent HVAC company to add a return and a couple output vents in the basement afterwards for $500-$1000. You should make the builder tell you the model information about the unit they installed so you can figure out heating BTU and cooling tons.

# ¿ Aug 17, 2017 17:11

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Maybe you can at least get them to install a bigger/better HVAC unit and then you can have it modified after you move in?

# ¿ Aug 17, 2017 19:19

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

I have a couple questions about furnace filters. I have two large AC units, and each unit has two filters, so I have two 20x20x1 and two 20x25x1 filters in my ceiling upstairs. I have no pets and no smokers and a pretty clean house. I change all four filters every 3 months, and maybe every 2 months in the summer since the units run much more often.

1. I currently use Naturalaire Merv 8 filters, https://www.rememberthefilter.com/products/naturalaire-merv-8-filters-12-pack?variant=36429209548. I picked them because they seem like a good quality but not too high MERV filter that has a wire mesh on the back - the wire mesh makes a big difference in preventing my filter from getting sucked halfway up the input vent because of the air moving through it. Is this a good filter? Should I be using something else?

2. I change the filters but they never look that dirty. They get a very fine gray dust on them, so when you hold them up to the light you can tell a difference, but they never look dark and dirty. Am I changing them more often than I need to?

3. How much efficiency does a dirty filter actually cause the A/C to lose? I looked at about 20 websites to find this info but I can't - is it like a very small (5%) increase in energy that I will see if a filter is a little dirty, or will it be like a 50% loss in cooling if the filter is pretty dirty?

# ¿ Aug 29, 2017 19:12

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Alereon posted:

Those are about the worst filters you can get, they're not electrostatic which I honestly wasn't aware was sold in MERV levels that high. Look into Nordic Pure, they offer good quality electrostatic filters at good prices that also have the metal mesh reinforcement and strong cardboard frames. The Tru-Mini filters have twice as much surface area so will last longer with lower impact to airflow.

Thanks for all the info. Do you think the MERV 8 filters (https://nordicpure.com/filter-size/1-ac-furnace-air-filter/20x20x1/20x20x1m8-6.html) are the best ones to get, or would you recommend a higher MERV rating? For a 5 ton A/C unit, I have two 25x20 for a total of just about 1000 square inches of filter. I think I looked that up once and it was a good size for the unit.

I probably will get the regular pleat and not the mini - they are over twice as much and it looks like they don't have the wire backing.

# ¿ Aug 30, 2017 05:06

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Frown Town posted:

Maybe I have? I felt this thread was most relevant to my immediate concern regarding smart meters.

Serious question, why do you think a smart meter would be special compared to any of the other 500 billion radio, wifi and cellular signals bouncing around you all time?

Even if electromagnetic fields can cause some kind of physical disruption to a human, it's really weird that you singled out a smart meter as problematic.

# ¿ Oct 2, 2017 20:52

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

I put some static cling window tinting film on my front door - it's the only window in the house that didn't already have film professionally installed on it. The instructions say to leave a 1/16th gap around the film to leave room for thermal expansion of the film, so it looks pretty good but there is a noticeable strip of brightness at the bottom of the window.

Does anyone happen to know if it would be OK to put a thin bead of caulk/silicone over the edge of the film to the wood trim of the window? Or would that screw up the film's ability to expand in the heat? I would probably only do the bottom edge because the top and sides don't really have the same bright line - must be the way the light reflects through the glass.

Here is the product: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HE57JS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

# ¿ Oct 30, 2017 01:07

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Sadly in the United States, it is soon going to be the norm that everyone needs a reverse osmosis system to filter out all the lead.

#MAGA

# ¿ Nov 26, 2017 05:46

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Europeans being unreasonably afraid of cleansers and disinfectants sure would explain a lot

# ¿ Nov 27, 2017 18:43

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

I have kind of a weird HVAC issue going on. I have a two story house with one unit per floor. Both units are in the attic and suck air in from the upstairs hallway. No humidifiers on the units.

The last few days, the downstairs unit seems to be heating the upstairs more than the downstairs - I turned up the thermostat a couple degrees and by the time it had gotten the downstairs warm (which took longer than usual) the upstairs had gone up 5 degrees.

I looked around the units in the attic and everything looks and sounds right to me. Some air is definitely coming out of the vents downstairs but it might not be as much as before, it's hard to tell. I can't find any obvious air leaks coming out of places they shouldn't upstairs.

I plan to call the HVAC company so a professional can come diagnose it, but this is a goofy issue and I was curious if anyone had any theories? All I can think of is a blower fan that is not rotating as fast as it should, but even that seems like it wouldn't cause the upstairs to heat so much.

Edit to add: I just called a guy and discussed the issue, he seems to think it's pretty normal based on my open floor plan. He thinks that since it's only below 40 here for a few weeks a year I might just not have noticed it too much in the past, since the same effect wouldn't occur with A/C.

Droo fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Jan 23, 2018

# ¿ Jan 23, 2018 17:13

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

thebushcommander posted:

I honestly have no idea how my energy is calculated. They don't physically send someone to my location each month, it automatically sends the reading back to their office every day at 6am. It's handy in the sense that I can see what my day-to-day energy use h as been and how much it cost me, but it makes almost no sense when I look at it. For instance... this past Saturday it was ~58 degrees so my heat didn't come on at all between 9am and 10pm. My house holds heat really well and the house stayed at 67 the entire day with the system turned off. I had no lights on since it was sunny outside. I literally watched Golf from about 12 until 6pm before anyone else came home and then night time still very few lights (all LED's in my house) and normal stuff. Heat kicked on around 10 according to this nifty app and then brought the house back to 68 where it would stay until 9am the next morning. Cost of power for the day $8.30.... Then Superbowl Sunday, I had 60 people in my house, every light bulb on, in every room, 4 TV's on for the game from about 1PM until the game ended. Cost of power for the day $3.50.. then there are days where I've used about a dollar in electricity, it's really weird.

Do you have natural gas, or does your house only have electric? If everything runs on electricity, your water heater, clothes dryer, stove/oven and furnace are going to matter a lot more than a bunch of LED TV's and light bulbs.

If you have a normal house with natural gas appliances then it's mainly going to be air conditioning that drives the electric bill.

# ¿ Feb 6, 2018 16:27

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

I have a double paned window that is letting air through because the glass appears to be a bit loose in the frame. The frame is aluminum and is fixed in place, but I can push the glass quite a bit on the bottom middle of the frame to the point that it makes a ~1/8th or more gap, and when it's windy outside it makes a funny fart noises as the air blows through whatever padding is in there.

I can't access it from outside because it's on my sloped roof and I'm a chicken, so with that in mind would it be possible to fix it from the inside? Could I just push the window out a bit and shoot a bunch of caulk into the gap and then let the window relax so it fills in? Or do I need to contact a window company to come out and look at it from both sides and fix it the right way?

If the caulk option isn't too stupid, is there a special kind I should use? Clear adhesive 100% silicone I would think.

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# ¿ Apr 13, 2018 03:46

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

IIRC double-paned windows are supposed to be "filled" with a vacuum (or else with some low-density gas) to provide extra insulation, which you've already lost as your window's seal is clearly compromised. Still, if you seal it in so it can't move, air is still a decent insulator. The main problem is that you might seal moisture in there as well, which could condense on the inside of the pane. I guess it's unlikely you'd get mildew, since there's probably nothing on the inside for it to eat, but the condensation would be irritating. Maybe rip open one of those silica packets and try to get the beads inside the frame?

But yeah, assuming replacing the window isn't an option I'd just caulk 'er up. Any kind of caulk should do fine at sealing the gap, so just use whatever makes sense aesthetically.

Thanks for the reply, I live in the desert so fog dies fast here.

I noticed a bunch of my windows are kind of loose in that same spot (bottom middle) so maybe I'll call a window repair place and see if they have better resealing options and can reseal a bunch of them for me, otherwise I'll just silicone them up as I find them.

# ¿ Apr 13, 2018 15:19

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

I have a 5 ton A/C unit which currently has space for two 20x25x1" filters, so 1000 inches total area. I use generic Merv 7 or 8 pleated filters and haven't had any airflow issues as far as I know.

I would like to use a higher MERV filter to help with dust and air quality. If I get the filter box replaced/modified to accommodate two 20x25x4" filters, would it be pretty safe to go to MERV 13 or even 15 filters? I know this is very situation dependent, just trying to see if this is a good idea or not before I have any work done.

# ¿ Apr 27, 2018 23:33

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

z0331 posted:

I am so sick of rain. So far our basement is only showing some wet concrete and no water collection, but our once-dry basement now feels like a mold haven and it won't stop raining or being humid long enough to dry out. We're planning to get a dehumidifier to hopefully help but I'm just really anxious about it growing into a worse problem as time goes on. Part of the issue might be that we haven't had the heat or the AC running, either of which would dry out the air a bit (or a lot in the case of the furnace).

For $200 you can buy a dehumidifier and drain it into your sump pump pit and solve this entire problem?

# ¿ Jun 4, 2018 19:36

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

z0331 posted:

No sump pump pit - just a capped drain pipe that *might* not be fully clogged and *might* be a general drain out to somewhere. Probably also original to the house.

And while a dehumidifier will help with general moisture, we had a full four inches of water a few weeks ago due to heavy snow melt followed by 24 hours of pounding rain. Granted it was unusual overall but it has me spooked.

That seems to me like you need a sump pump installed but I'm not an expert. Maybe there are retrofit options that don't require a 2 foot wide hole dug through your foundation.

# ¿ Jun 4, 2018 20:18

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

I dunno it seems personally reasonable to me that I could use my entire month's worth of internet in less time than it takes to watch Apocalypse Now.

#America

# ¿ Jun 25, 2018 20:21

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

enraged_camel posted:

OK, I found a metal hatch underneath some foliage. It's pretty heavy though and I couldn't find a handle to lift it.

I guess I'm hosed huh?

Man, all I need to do is replace a god drat garden faucet that has rusted due to PO's neglect.

There is probably a small rectangle hole in it, use a screwdriver to leverage it up via that hole.

# ¿ Jul 18, 2018 18:17

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

I don't know why anyone needs more than a single pod from the Matrix

# ¿ Jul 19, 2018 16:45

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

fatal oopsie-daisy posted:

Long shot, but does anyone or has anyone here owned a house in Las Vegas? I�m moving there in like 2 years for work and I�m wondering about what it�s like to own there and how much things like summertime AC will run me for a 3br/3ba house or so.

All I know is that there is very little water or rain, which is good and owns.

Here are my annual electric bills for a 3500 square foot place that I keep at 73 when I'm home. 2014 bills are probably close to what the previous owner paid and are probably typical of my neighbors now, but even in 2014 I had already replaced all like 60 incandescent light bulbs with LED lights. I would estimate that $500-$600 of the 2014 cost was from a 2000 watt pool pump running 5 hours a day on average.

The biggest decreases are from switching to time of use billing, linking my AC thermostats into my home security/automation stuff to take advantage of the TOU billing and whenever I'm away or sleeping, and getting a better variable speed pool pump.

2014 $3,437.06
2015 $2,925.75
2016 $1,777.47
2017 $1,965.59

Also, in the summer it stays hot all night and one of my biggest surprises was how hot it stays all the way through midnight. Today's high for example is 99 and it's forecast to be 86 at midnight. But Arizona is even hotter and gets less rain.

# ¿ Jul 21, 2018 16:23

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

fatal oopsie-daisy posted:

That's actually great info. I'm looking for something in the bog standard 1800-2200 suburban home size, so hopefully the bills will be a little easier. Also, I don't need/want a pool.

Something like this:
https://www.zillow.com/homes/for_sa...7x5fk&3col=true

I'll be working from home so I'm basically going to be at my house 24/7. I'm also pretty good with my money and I don't take many vacations or have any kids, just my wife and I, so I think I can splurge a little on keeping a house fully AC'd during the summer.

I have a tiny 265 square foot apartment in central Tokyo now and I pay around $110-140 a month for electric, so the change won't be huge but the cost performance will be much better.

Well here are some other bill estimates for a couple with a house here for what it's worth. Zero state income tax is worth a lot too.

code:

MONTHLY:
Vegas NV Energy          $160.00 
Vegas Southwest Gas       $55.00 
Vegas Water	         $120.00   High because PO planted stupid things that don't belong here
Vegas Sanitation          $12.00 
Vegas Internet	          $90.00 
Vegas DirecTV	          $65.00 
Vegas Pest Control	  $29.00 
	

YEARLY
Car Insurance	              $1,634.00   2 cars, 250/500 liability with no comp/collision
Home Insurance	                $858.00 
2005 Nevada Registration	$150.00    Variable, would be close to $1000 for a brand new $40k car 
2008 Nevada Registration	$200.00 
Property Taxes	              $3,900.00   Would be closer to $2500 on the house you linked

# ¿ Jul 21, 2018 18:31

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Bosch dishwashers are good but they are Euro style and might not dry the dishes to your satisfaction, you should look up the difference before you buy one.

# ¿ Jul 24, 2018 00:56

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Gin_Rummy posted:

Well that certainly explains the ocean left behind on all my dishes every morning.

I have mostly solved it with mine by turning on the sanitize setting, setting the jet dry setting to max, and opening the dishwasher immediately after it finishes running and shaking dumping off any pools of water/shaking off any wet plastic things that are in there and then letting them air dry while hot for another 15 minutes before putting them away.

Annoying because now I don't like to run it late at night, but it's nice that I can put plastic stuff anywhere and not have it melt. And my old dishwasher constantly vented steam right at my cabinets which was probably not good.

# ¿ Jul 24, 2018 17:17

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

SpartanIvy posted:

Back to home ownership: anyone know where to find vintage moulding/trim? I have simple art deco looking trim around my floors, doors, and windows (it's all the same) and I'm looking at replacing some pieces that I've pulled off for pesticide application. It's a real simple 3 step pattern, but I can't seem to find anything online. Does anyone know of like a specialty moulding shop or something?

When I needed a couple specialty doors I went to a door shop and they had a wall display with like 50 different trim patterns, maybe look for a door place.

# ¿ Jul 27, 2018 17:40

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Motronic posted:

You can't be. Millennials don't know how to cook. Stop trolling.

His "produce" is just avacados for him to spread on toast

# ¿ Jul 29, 2018 23:36

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Leperflesh posted:

Wait, the sawdust down the tub was on purpose??? Why would you put sawdust down any drain? What's wrong with the trash?

I think you are forgetting that people are terrible.

The other day someone told me how stupid her boyfriend was because he didn't even know where the recycling was in their apartment complex, but she doesn't use it anyway because it's like 300 feet further than the garbage and she's not going to walk that far.

# ¿ Aug 7, 2018 18:12

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

SpartanIvy posted:

The right one doesn't exist, it's a doorway created through hate and incompetence from a PO and it's requiring substantial work to get the door in there.

If you're referring to flipping the sill, that's because left handed outswing doors are few and far between and heinously expensive. I can buy 2 of the "wrong" doors with a frame and still save money. Now that I've got a frame installed though, I should be able to source a second hand door to cut down without too much trouble. If it comes down to it. I'm hoping I can just find a longer door bottom to take up the slack.

I had two outswing exterior fiberglass prehung doors installed (one was left hand one right hand but no difference in price) for $1000 total. It was impossible to find anything in stock at a big box store, and I even tried ordering custom ordering through Lowe's and they took 6 weeks and screwed up the order so I just had it refunded. Once I went to a small local door store, they came out, quoted it and had them both installed within a week.

I had to paint the doors though.

# ¿ Aug 19, 2018 07:13

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

Is there any kind of UV protector I could spray on outdoor aluminum furniture to slow down the fading? I have the table and benches from this set and I'm sick of keeping a cover on it.

I was thinking a coat of Amour All every few months couldn't hurt, but I dunno if something would work better.

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# ¿ Sep 7, 2018 19:24

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

I particularly like that you think installing an awning would be simpler than spraying some UV protecting wax onto a table every few months.

The desert sun is not the same as the sun wherever you two live I imagine. Here is a 1 year old U/V protected outdoor rug that was partially covered. This block used to all be dark red.

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# ¿ Sep 7, 2018 20:13

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:

So what it sits outside who are you trying to impress, the loving sun?

Well unlike you (who has spent the last year bragging online about how much money you make on an essentially constant basis), I'm not trying to impress anyone. I'm just trying to keep my stuff looking as nice as is practical given harsh weather conditions where I live. But thanks for helping!

# ¿ Sep 7, 2018 20:28

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

QuarkJets posted:

I've lived in a desert basically all of my life and that's only another argument for just not giving a gently caress; you shouldn't be wasting precious maintenance time on a futile quest to preserve some ugly outdoor furniture

Setting up a parasol takes no time at all but not if you're a feeble sun-fearing goon bound to a rascal scooter, so I guess it's not a solution in this case

The area gets gusts of wind up to 80mph on a fairly regular basis, an umbrella is a bad solution. I had to screw a rug to the patio to stop it from blowing away. Plus I have high quality shade sails above the area which block a good amount of the midday sun.

As far as the weird rage you have towards me for asking if there's a good UV protector spray for aluminum patio furniture, I can only assume I corrected something dumb you said at some point in the past and you've been nursing a grudge ever since or something, so I guess welcome to my ignore list and have a nice life, crazy guy.

# ¿ Sep 7, 2018 22:41

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# ¿ May 16, 2024 08:20

Droo: Jun 25, 2003

veiled boner fuel posted:

Anyone got any tips on getting rid of and preventing future creaks/squeaks/etc. I have done a bit of research and just watched this "Why is it happend and how to fix it" video and just wondered if anyone had any other experience or advice.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TC-sUmqgn6I

We'll be getting rid of the carpet and putting in hardwood. The floor is supported by 2x4 trusses rather than conventional 2xWhatevers or those I beams. So the 4" being exposed should make it pretty easy to drill in and hit the joists compared to only having the 2" side exposed.

We don't really have any squeaks but a fair amount of more "crack" type noise. Was planning on spot treating any currently noisy areas but maybe also putting in screws every 2' or something as a preventative measure since once the new floor goes in it likely won't ever be going anywhere.

I did that on the whole second floor of my old house when I got new carpeting. It was about 30 years old at the time and had significant movement as you walked around. Pulled the old carpet up, pulled out all the hundreds and thousands of staples they used to hold the old carpet padding in place so the wood was all clean, and then sunk a couple hundred screws through the floor into the beams before having the new carpet installed.

It worked well and I never noticed the problem again after it was all done. I remember reading about some kind of powder you could put down where the floor boards meet up (I guess the edges rubbing can also cause squeaks) but I didn't do that.

# ¿ Oct 5, 2018 00:03

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Ask/Tell > Business, Finance, and Careers > Homeowners: I own 8 different power saws, primarily to attract a mate.

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