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EVG posted:Fridge woes You're not going to get any "breathing room" on the right side of the fridge without knocking out and reframing the wall, which means messing with the panel regardless. Getting more room via manipulating the cabinets, and having it look right, is potentially as expensive as just buying a new fridge, since you're talking about custom cabinet work to get it to not look slapped together. I'd say, live with it, or bite the bullet and get a fridge that fits.
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Aug 8, 2019 22:49
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meanolmrcloud posted:When our house was built, the city ran plumbing on the exterior of the house to capture runoff. Some time in the past, this was changed, probably due to the infrastructure being unable to handle the volume. I’m guessing it’s a dick move, and also comes with a fine to tap back into that plumbing? Yeah they used to have "combined sewer" systems where all stormwater, from the street or otherwise, would go into the general sewer system and to the treatment plant. The caveat being that when you had a heavy storm, the system was designed to overflow once the treatment plant capacity was tapped out. Meaning you had (diluted) raw sewage dumping into the receiving river. Of course, this is a huge no no now, but a lot of systems are grandfathered until the cities can come up with an infrastructure solution. But tapping back in will get you fined to hell.
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Sep 3, 2019 12:22
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GoGoGadgetChris posted:The gutter cleaner dudes told me that I literally don't ever have to clean my gutters since I live on top of a hill and the nearby trees are all below the roof line. Unless you get some massive windstorm blowing in leaves on a regular basis, they're probably right. The only thing going in there might be some dust, gravel from asphalt roofing, and bird poo poo. A solid rain usually washes any of that out. Anyway if your gutter are blocked up, you'll just see them overtopping, it's nit going to fill your walls up with water unless something is drastically wrong. Which, of course, I'm sure will happen.
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Jan 28, 2020 22:46
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DaveSauce posted:Anyhow, we just had a bunch of landscaping done and it looks great, except we now have some drainage issues: Personally, I would try and secure the mulch on the sides there with larger rocks, or it'll wash away. You also mentioned that they used "woven plastic", which I'm guessing you mean geotextile fabric. Actual woven geotextile isn't super porous and is usually used for keeping water out. It looks like crossed threads. Unwoven geotextile (or "weed mat") is actually porous and probably what should have been used. If the landscaper used woven (or actual plastic/rubber) you're basically making a big chute for the water rather than dissipating the energy and risk wash outs. From your photo and general info, a rain garden would have been perfect at the edge there, with the rock channel only serving as an emergency overflow. quote:As an aside, most of that was previously grass, but was landscaped over because surface tree roots made it nearly impossible to maintain. It's always had SOME drainage problems, but never this bad. Surface tree roots often means a high water table, which means poor drainage. Roots generally need oxygen and unless it's a wetland species, they don't want to be inundated, so they grow shallow roots.
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Feb 10, 2020 20:23
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I don't know if there is a more appropriate thread for a question like this, but about a year ago now I got a bit 18' red maple planted after I had to take down an old Norway maple that had died. They came in with a fairly sizable soil knife (90"). Today, I cut in a mulch bed around it with a dry edge, roughly about the same area where the soil knife had come it. I think its' roughly 6' diameter? I used a dry edge, with a half-moon style edger to deliniate the edge. I ran into a "few" roots, probably the largest was around the diameter of my thumb. Of course, to maintain the edge depth, I cut them...and now tonight around dinner time, I realized that I probably cut off all shallow roots in the first 6" of soil, and that red maples have a pretty shallow root system. However, given that the tree made it OK last year being completely cut and replanted, I'm thinking that the worst I could have done is moderately set back root growth from what was made last year? Or did I gently caress myself? I'm somewhat concerned because when the tree was planted, everything was dormant (it was very early March), and now we're in early May in PA and everything is leafed out.
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May 4, 2020 03:21
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All you plebs with your "water heaters" and I'm sitting over here with my oil-fired Energy Kinetics System 2000 boiler. If my house wasn't 150 years old and leaked like a sieve, can you imagine how efficient my heating costs would be with a name like that?
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May 18, 2020 12:34
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| # ¿ May 16, 2024 15:45 |
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Leperflesh posted:I don't think you're hacking through asbestos with a pocket knife anyway. Asbestos was in so many different products and a LOT of them were friable. Everything from ceiling tile to glues and caulks to the super durable stuff you're thinking of like transite board. At this point you hardly see much of the really soft stuff anymore as it's been removed or just renovated away. You still see some stuff like pipe wrap that has hung around for a while. I used to do asbestos surverys and one of my go to tools was a utility knife. So you can definitely hack up asbestos with a pocket knife. That said, drywall from an 80s house is probably safe.
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May 20, 2020 13:04
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