Homeowners: I own 8 different power saws, primarily to attract a mate.

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Ask/Tell > Business, Finance, and Careers > Homeowners: I own 8 different power saws, primarily to attract a mate.

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SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

Ghostnuke posted:

That's weird. I used it to go over a dark blue and it worked just fine.

Annoying... Maybe we got a bad batch... We did a light grey on the walls and white on the ceiling. I should say I did nothing but tape and remove electrical covers / lamps, its not my room. But I will never use Behr again because of the bad experience, even if it is a one off. A little more for paint that doesn't bleed is worth it for me.

# ¿ Oct 17, 2016 19:42

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# ¿ May 14, 2024 02:01

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

DJCobol posted:

Already checked, not going to be an issue.

I put 20% down so I don't have PMI and my payment is pretty low. I am already investing in other things (Roth IRA, work 401*(k), HSA) so I'm just looking for some other options.

It sounds like your financial house is in order, so I see a few options.

1) Max your 401(k)
2) Pay down principal (expected return = your interest rate)
3) Invest in taxable funds (expected return = market average)
4)

# ¿ Oct 20, 2016 19:40

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

Grumpwagon posted:

Tax benefits and the ability to roll it over to Vanguard when you move companies probably still make it worth it.

This.

DJCobol posted:

I max out my Roth and my HSA. I don't max out the 401(k) though because I dont like the options I have through my employer's plan. It's just in a target year fund, but the ER is twice as much as my Vanguard options in my Roth.

What are your fund options? 0.36% is still a very good ER.

# ¿ Oct 21, 2016 06:17

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

enraged_camel posted:

How do I decide whether I need home security? Are there calculators or guides?

How safe is your area? How big is your dog?

Personally, I would say you should hire a couple guys to watch your house 24/7.

# ¿ May 28, 2018 06:54

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

H110Hawk posted:

You need a dowel the size of your lock cylinder and a metal file. Swap a longer pin into a shorter pin slot, leave the longer pin blank, file down a key until it works smoothly then duplicate it.

Alternatively buy a handful of locks keyed the same, swap the pins with yours then return them. You still need the dowel.

Also never listen to me.

What. You buy a pin kit online, and a new random key (x10) at the locksmith. I did the last rental I rented for about $25, which was 8 cylinders. lovely landlord wouldn't do it.

# ¿ May 28, 2018 18:07

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

WithoutTheFezOn posted:

Probably not, all I�ve ever needed was maybe some replacement wire connector caps and electrical tape.

Electrical tape..for what?

# ¿ May 29, 2018 20:40

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

WithoutTheFezOn posted:

Unnecessary, but I sometimes put a bit below the connection to hold the wires together as I twist on the cap.

Yeah, don't do that. Pre-twist with Linesmen pliers if you're not comfortable with just twisting on. I always mechanically presecure, it's how I was taught, even though I know it's no longer necessary with modern caps.

# ¿ May 29, 2018 20:50

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

We had a somewhat similar - but definitely also somewhat different - setup on a mid-1900s garage my friend and I rented a few years ago. I am not a fan of the big rear end springs, but as long as the attachment stuff is in sound condition, its fine. They (3 of them) were manual opening, I never looked into converting them to power. I'm sure someone has posted pictures of doing it.

Btw, basically all doors have springs, you should try lifting a door without them. It's a LOT more work, a motor would never be able to handle it. Sure, some aren't balanced or sized right, but they have springs.

# ¿ May 31, 2018 03:40

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

deep web creep posted:

The temperature jumped up here early last week. The Friday before Memorial Day was going to hit the mid-90s, so hey good a time as any to turn on the air conditioner that the inspector said was "totally fine, just old". Set the thermostat and air started blowing out of the vents. An hour later I'm still sweaty and gross. I look outside and the A/C unit's fan isn't moving.
Called 4 repair services before someone told me they could come out that day (most said not until the next Wednesday. One was booked up for two weeks.). The repair guy comes out that afternoon and we go to take a look at the unit. He removes the side cover and like a dozen loving mice spring out. Little fuckers had been living in there for years, pissing all over everything and corroding it to hell.
Ran me about $400 to get it fixed well enough to limp along to this fall, when I'll be able to replace the whole HVAC system.

Homeownership, y'all.

You didn't take it apart and clean the condenser this spring? Oops.

What was wrong with it?

And aren't you excited to replace the HVAC? I can feel the $$excitement$$ in your post.

# ¿ Jun 1, 2018 21:45

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

Ghostnuke posted:

Does anyone know if electric chainsaws are worth a poo poo? I'd like to buy a chainsaw in general, but I would like to avoid having another carburetor that's gummed up 90% of the time.

Get a Stihl or Hitachi and run e0 with Stabil. My tools are all orange but I had a little Hitachi handheld blower and it starter like a champ after being shelved for 13 months. I'm probably going to get a Hitachi top handle chainsaw because of my limited use case and the cost vs a Stihl.

StormDrain posted:

I picked up an electric chainsaw polesaw, which is an electric chainsaw and a pole to operate it remotely and it�s dandy for small trimming. My gas powered one was awesome for bigger jobs and a total beast when it ran properly but for convenience sake I have no regrets with the electric. Between that and the sawzall with the landscaping blade I�m set until I have a big branch to drop.

The gas one was a Stihl and it was older than me, it seized up partly because I stopped taking close care to it, and I tossed it in the trash.

Edit: when I say small trimming I mean 2-4� branches.

Sigh kids these days.

I use my 36cc Kombi with a 10" blade to cut down 6-8" trees. It's too much, but it worked very excellently.

Ghostnuke posted:

I'm thinking about this one. Looks like it should be beefy enough to cut down an actual tree.

Besides the trip hazard that looks good. As long as you're careful I'm sure its fine. Like with most things. (I'd still go with a 2 stroke.)

devicenull posted:

Just get one of these too https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-115-Volt-Condensate-Removal-Pump-CSP010/204480032 and drain it to whereever (outside?)

Not the worst idea...

Reminder to all: look for signs of water when buying a house!

# ¿ Jun 5, 2018 14:07

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

z0331 posted:

Hm, might be an option. We actually bought a 70-pint dehumidifier last night. It was full to the brim within 12 hours.

Our inspector wasn't very good, but when we looked at the house there was no (to me) obvious signs of water damage. Looking again at the stone foundation walls, there are I guess indications of water but you have to look pretty closely. I'm sure this has happened before, but I think it's also just been really, really wet this spring.

Actually the likely offending side of the house where the water is leaking in is where our deck is, so I'm thinking rain/snow melt just is collecting under the deck boards and then not drying up. I need to redo this deck eventually anyway (boards are steady but very old and some are in pretty rough shape and the railing is hilariously wobbly in parts) and was thinking of looking into installing a membrane under the planks to try to collect/drain away water. Has anyone done anything like that?

You could get a 5gal pail. That�s what my friends who have portable air conditioners do. Just make sure to look at it daily or twice a day. Or get a condensate pump like linked above.

I think you need French drains outside. I'm so glad code required it for my house, the hill is very much clay and water runs down from uphill like a motherfucker, if not for the drains I'd have an issue.

# ¿ Jun 5, 2018 15:11

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

StormDrain posted:

Well there�s things that I do and there�s things that I recommend others do...

I�m waiting for that next large branch to cut to justify a new two stroke chainsaw.

I can relate. I highly recommend using that justification. I'm going to use it for picking up a real saw to help my folks with some trimming.

# ¿ Jun 5, 2018 20:03

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

Dustoph posted:

Any recommendations on lawn mowers? First time having a lawn so looking for longevity and ease of use. Just grab whatever Honda and be done with it? I'm guessing around 5,000 sq ft of grass.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CX67FZ1/

# ¿ Jun 6, 2018 01:20

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

Dustoph posted:

Can I sit on it while drinking a beer? Or does it at least have a strap for the baby on top?

I assume it could be a good babysitter. My dog loves my roomba, I bet he'd love a robot grass vacuum. Sadly I am way too poor for one.

# ¿ Jun 6, 2018 01:53

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

gvibes posted:

Paging Motronic - weren't you talking about some expensive but very very stable gasoline variant? What was that again? Was it Truefuel?

TruFuel is a brand of "high performance synthetic [lube]" premixed fuel. Stihl Motomix is similar but probably different. My dad used to run Motomix, I talked him out of it. He now runs E0 + Stabil360 + Stihl HP Ultra. I'm going to stick with mixed E0. For things like a saw, generator (4 stroke but still has a carb), and other very occasional use tools, drain the carb. I don't drain my blower, Kombi, or lawn mower (though I should drain the mower - but it has never been drained since the mid 90s... Still on the original carb w/o servicing outside of oil annually/plug&filter every few seasons, still runs like a champ). The mower sits for 5mo or so every year, the blower/KM get use year round but sometimes will sit for a few months.

In my mind, all small carbs are the same as far as storage procedures go. Others may disagree, I may just not know what I am talking about (very likely, I loving hate carbs, haven't rebuilt one since automotive school a decade ago!), but my personal history with these tools has shown me that I am doing it okay, and I'm not going to change because effort.

Also, this: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2288931/Stihl_Motomix_vs_Trufuel_50:1

This post was worth exactly what you paid for it. :pipe:

E: You might, *might*, want to run TruFuel/MotoMix before storing your saw or other tools at the end of the season, but still... Drain and run em dry, if that. Post is still worth what you paid for it.

SiGmA_X fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Jun 6, 2018

# ¿ Jun 6, 2018 02:28

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

Motronic posted:

You do realize this is 100% not an option for a huge number of people......

It would take me 45 minutes to get to the closest place that has it - and "it" is 94 octane VP racing fuel that costs about the same per gallon as TruFuel.

To be honest, I didn't realize that. I drive about 15min and pay ~$4/gal, I thought that was roughly the norm based on what I know from friends/family around the nation. I would buy TruFuel instead if I had that sort of price happening.

What do you get 1/5gal containers of TruFuel for?

# ¿ Jun 6, 2018 13:56

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

SpartanIvy posted:

I also measured the old door frame but that was after it was removed so I didn't realize the concrete went so high up on it. I thought the concrete height was to offset the need for a sill, but it's way more than that.

I don't want to go find the right emoji for this, but lololol.

Measure before buying. Return and buy the correct custom door. Sounds expensive!

# ¿ Jun 10, 2018 06:35

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

last laugh posted:

I took out a water feature lat year and am left with a bit of a dirt mound that I want to level off and put down seed -- What would be the best tools for this while being cost efficient?

Rent a tractor of course. Or buy a shovel.

QuarkJets posted:

How long do I have to wait? And what happens?

You want to grind it.

H110Hawk posted:

Well as previously alluded to our washing machine is making scarier and scarier metal-on-metal sounds. Our washer is currently in a turbo dumb spot but isn't really feasible to move it right now. It's in a narrow hallway and the tile work below it is not level by design (the individual tiles aren't flat on top.) I'm presuming this constant balancing act has led to its untimely demise. Overall we loved the washer, it got our clothes clean, wasn't beating them up too badly, and had the little energy star sticker.

It also appears to be a bit of a unicorn in that it's 25.5" deep, 4.1 cu ft capacity, and had a really low profile central agitator thing. Everything I'm seeing now is 27" deep. Is that just how it is? The washing machine is already the narrowest point in the hallway so the extra 1.5" is something we will feel. Anything below 27" is ~2-2.5cuft, literally doubling our laundry cycles.

http://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-specs/WPRE6150KWT

Looks like this is the replacement? https://www.pacificsales.com/pdp/GE-5-0-Cu-Ft-13-Cycle-Top-Loading-Washer-White-on-White-Silver/5959508

As for the tile, we hope to replace it Soon(tm) but in the interim I will like putting down a piece of plywood would at least give me a surface it would stay more level on, even if below it is uneven. Is this dumb?

Your existing and replacement washer have leveling feet. Use them.

# ¿ Jun 11, 2018 14:56

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

H110Hawk posted:

Yup. And with the little bit of travel washers do over time it eventually slips up/down the tiles causing it to be subtly out balance. Trying to give myself a fighting chance before we bash up and replace the tile.

Fair enough. I assumed it would mostly.be fine when you move the washer back in place - my feet don't retract from where they're set, but my floor is also flat.

My washer came with some beefy mounting bolts too, but you'd have to drill your tile and that's always a fun time... I didn't use them, but I have considered it. I would love for the machine to never walk around but moving it back is easy enough. At least my feet don't retract.

# ¿ Jun 11, 2018 21:03

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

You want a rotohammer! I bought one (used) vs rented when I did some concrete work. It cost me a little more than a 1 day rental and was super handy to have being I needed it up front and then a month plus later after the concrete was cured. Friends and family have borrowed it too, so welllll worth it.

I wonder what the subfloor is going to look like... And what you'll need to do to refinish it for whatever your new flooring will be... Fun times!

# ¿ Jun 11, 2018 22:25

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

H110Hawk posted:

But I own an air compressor and

My goal is going to be cheap, neutral, and flat. In other words, whatever my wife picks out, hopefully <$2/sqft.

Lowes my in area has various closeouts allll the time. If you need a smaller amount of SF, you often can find some good stuff.

E:

This is the blade/chisel for a rotohammer, but you'll need the $50-150 (I paid $125, *wide* range of prices):
$26 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Thinset-Removal-Bit-3-in-x-6-5-in-SDS-Plus-Scaling-Chisel-3TRBSPSFC/301949302

Or a manual chisel, should work out pretty well but more efforts, and no extra tools you'll need once in a blue moon (which is a great reason to buy them :grin:

)!
$6 - https://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-big-head-concrete-floor-chisel-6759.html

SiGmA_X fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Jun 12, 2018

# ¿ Jun 12, 2018 01:33

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

H110Hawk posted:

Am I going to hate my life doing ~65sqft (5x13) with something like this and a small air compressor? I have enough hose and fittings to leave the compressor outside and run the hose to the area to be demo'd.

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/hammers/medium-barrel-air-impact-hammer-61244.html
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-6-Gal-150-PSI-Portable-Electric-Pancake-Air-Compressor-C2002/203162815 (I believe this is the exact one I have.)

Edit: That unit claims a Harbor Freight measurement of 4CFM "on avg". Looks like I've got ~8.5 cubic ft of air in the tank @ 150 psi, so at 90 psi regulated output it would "cut-in" at 120PSI, likely keeping downtime to a minimum even though it would take time to recharge. I could always switch to scooping debris.

Air hammers do use a fair amount of air, but tile also might not be really secure, it often comes up easier than you'd expect, except when it doesn't. Its very likely you'd be able to do it by hand without a ton of effort like someone posted earlier.

I've never used my generic China airhammer on my tiny home compressor (2-3SCFM@90, much like yours but not a pancake), only on my big 80gal ~13SCFM (IIRC, may be 16...) at my shop.

I'm sure someone up in here will have better input for you. I'm guessing its worth a try.

# ¿ Jun 12, 2018 19:42

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

H110Hawk posted:

FINE DAD. Jeez.

Its always good to get your tool out and beat it and see where it takes you.

# ¿ Jun 12, 2018 20:12

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

Its very likely USAA looked at your house pictures and age and called it good - or sent someone out for a drive by. Its common practice for most carriers (I'd say all carriers except I can't back ALL up).

# ¿ Jun 24, 2018 07:11

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

H110Hawk posted:

Impound account. It's frequently offered (and sometimes required) that you pay your lender money into impound and they pay your property taxes and fire insurance out of it. It's great and pretty much everyone who isn't rich should do it if available. Every month you pay around 1/12th the TI of PITI into it and they allegedly handle the rest. Once a year you true up. It means generally there is a bunch of money sitting there and I believe it to be worth the peace of mind.

I will miss it when I pay off my mortgage. They won't let me add my earthquake policy to it.

Pays like 2% interest too.

Couple addendums:
- sometimes (maybe always as its a standard loan form) the loving servicer gets to decide if you can cancel escrow, and some servicers are loving horrid
- a lot of people are bad with money so it can helpful for those, smoothing of payments plus accruing as needed
- you get interest on your escrow?!?

Subjunctive posted:

Cool for you all I guess! I�ve never heard of it up here.

Where are you located? Its the norm in the USA. You often can opt out, but many people find it easier to have one payment. I would rather DIY and let escrow money sit at Ally.

I believe my city allows monthly, quarterly, biannual, or annual payments. You get a discount (3%?) for annual, maybe for semi too (1.5%), I'm not going to go look. Less over head for the city makes a lot of sense as to why they charge more for more frequent payments - though you would hope it was fully paperless and automated by 2018, but I bet it ain't. There is no opt out for paper tax statements, for example, and I'm sure there is some manual stuff on the back end after they receive the ACH...

SiGmA_X fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Jun 25, 2018

# ¿ Jun 25, 2018 02:31

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

Well that's pretty legit WRT CA 2% escrow.

I have 100% of everything on autopay and paperless, but I review 100% of bills monthly. And notices and poo poo. Paperless FTW.

# ¿ Jun 25, 2018 06:49

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

MrYenko posted:

I�d pay an extra $50 a month for FIOS. Even at the new, mystery rate you�re still paying less than I do for Comcast�s lovely cable internet service.

BRING ME FIBER YOU FUCKWITS

We now have centurylink, but reviews are so loving mixed. And I probably need a new pfSense box to interface with it, which adds a few hundred, plus fishing wire in a wall that is really not conductive to fishing as it ends in concrete... I'm not very happy with Comcast quality or price though, I may give it a go soon. Gig is $85 "for life", 100mbps is $65.

# ¿ Jun 25, 2018 14:34

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

sadus posted:

We can't have people actually be using the internet and getting now can we?

We have no bandwidth cap with CenturyLink DSL here, do they have caps for their gigabit stuff? We only get 7 mbit down / 1 mbit up at the very end of a copper line. Good enough for Skype but not Slack or Zoom but I still manage to work from home OK somehow. The day the new low latency satellite internet is available will be amazing.

I once complained in vain to the FCC about CenturyLink people literally laughing at me when I asked when they were going to install fiber up here in the mountains. The CenturyLink lawyer who had to reply noted I was a "heavy downloader" - yeah, how is that even possible with such slow speeds. Oh well, its good enough for streaming Plex @ 720p, and even a 4k HDR movie only takes like 24-48 hours to download. Worth it to have bears and elk for neighbors

Yes, there are caps on the CL gig. I can't find it right now... But it definitely exists.

# ¿ Jun 26, 2018 06:22

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

No Butt Stuff posted:

One handler and zoned ductwork.

Variable speed handler? What type of zone control? I only know a little about it, but if the zoning was designed to use a bypass (kind of retrofit/hack job type of deal) and you removed it...problem found?

# ¿ Jun 29, 2018 21:49

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

HEY NONG MAN posted:

I�ve been wearing sneakers but it hasn�t seemed to help.

My roof is super simple. It�s nearly flat to be honest but it has maybe 9-12 degree slopes on either side of a simple peak that runs the span of the house. The chimney is on one side of the house but that�s it.

I guess I could tie off on my front deck when I�m doing the back half and then switch to the back deck when I�m cleaning the front?

Roof anchors. And harnesses and rope. (You always need rope.)

# ¿ Jul 5, 2018 06:05

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

HEY NONG MAN posted:

I have a metal roof so any puncture points I make run the risk of voiding the warranty.

Anchors are especially common on metal roofs, at least in my experience. I'm not sure I've ever seen a metal roof *without* an anchor system, actually. It's a couple hundred bucks (when the roof is installed) and its vastly more safe than not having one, and WAY easier than the ol rope over the roof. That said, I've never researched them as the installers provided.

I assume your installer can tell you what they'd use. Or maybe you live in a flat roof area and noone uses anchors...

# ¿ Jul 5, 2018 06:43

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

SpartanIvy posted:

I was working on cutting down some overgrown crepe myrtles this morning and with one branch left I sawed through my extension cord

I'm sorry you didn't have music or flood lamps for the last branch

Sad days.

# ¿ Jul 7, 2018 21:25

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

TraderStav posted:

I love my Trex deck and I also hated dealing with power washing, staining, etc. That's not THAT much work, but enough that the premium was worth it in my opinion. If you outsource the periodic maintenance of the deck I think you can be looking at several hundred ($500?) every few years and that premium of the Trex quickly goes away if you stay in your house for a while. That's how I justified it.

You don't have to pressure wash your Trex? Or brush? Maybe my cleaning needs are because it is an older formula...

Hubis posted:

Speaking of decks, I am demoing an old ground-level deck in my back yard. I have the decking off and still have to break down the underlying joists, etc.

Are there any tricks to disassembling the standard nail/hanger construction? It seems like trying to crowbar out all the nails would be obnoxious. I've got a sawzall so I can cut some of the joists down into more manageable pieces, but there are still joints that would need to be pulled apart. Could I just try sawing through the hangers/nails directly?

You'll either want to use a metal blade on the sawzall or a catspaw, or probably both. I removed a ~22x12 loft entirely with a catspaw, it was a fair amount of work. I should have used it as an excuse to buy a cordless sawzall and a few big AH batteries!

# ¿ Jul 9, 2018 18:46

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

H110Hawk posted:

Captive agents are different, think State Farm where you have an agent but they only deal with State Farm. Once you start talking to people it will become pretty darn clear I think. I've never had a problem with excessive phone calls from this stuff, once you tell them you've gone elsewhere I've seen it die off immediately.

I've had mixed results so I'm glad I do the GV method. I get emails from a local All State office every 6ish months. They always say sorry we'll remove you from the list. Its gone on since 2014. State Farm removed me immediately when I asked, not a peep in 3yrs...

# ¿ Jul 12, 2018 17:16

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

H110Hawk posted:

Use Gmail? Just hit report spam. Google will learn.

I do, it doesn't seem to.

# ¿ Jul 12, 2018 20:41

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

I love expanding foam.

# ¿ Jul 15, 2018 21:11

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

Halloween Jack posted:

What's a reasonable price to pay for a dishwasher that will last? Are any brands better than others as a rule?

Seems like there's a YouTube cottage industry in keeping decades old appliances alive, but I don't know if I can fix this. The never reliable Sears Home Repair is the only appliance repair outfit around, and they want $100 just to diagnose it.

~$900~1,100. Bosch FTW.

HEY NONG MAN posted:

Get a Bosch with the third rack up top for silverware. Life changing poo poo man.

Which third rack model do you have? Bosch came out with a new one.

E: These are the two I am looking at. They're identical except the rack and dBA rating - and while I understand that is "double" the sound, my parents have had two of the 42's in an open configuration and you could be sitting in the dining/sitting area RIGHT in front of the dishwasher and have a quiet conversation without interruption.

SHXM78W55N ~$950 42-dBA with Flexible 3rd Rack
https://www.bosch-home.com/us/productslist/dishwashers/top-controls/SHXM78W55N

SHXM98W75N ~$1,125 39-dBA with MyWay 3rd rack
https://www.bosch-home.com/us/productslist/dishwashers/top-controls/SHXM98W75N

SiGmA_X fucked around with this message at 22:12 on Jul 22, 2018

# ¿ Jul 22, 2018 20:40

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

enraged_camel posted:

I'm happy to report that, since doing this a week ago, I haven't seen a roach inside the house. Gonna give it another week before I hang the MISSION ACCOMPLISHED banner on the wall.

Pft, do it now, you know it's already done! #USA!

# ¿ Jul 22, 2018 21:59

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

skipdogg posted:

I'll probably just wait a year and sign up for the monthly flat rate program where you overpay in the winter to help offset the summer bills.

Why? Just budget a flat annual amount, problem solved.

potatoducks posted:

Ended up getting a 5 ton AC unit and variable speed fan furnace installed for 13k. Couldn't do dual zone unfortunately because of how our ducts are set up, so we plan to compensate by keeping the fan running at all times as well as use an Ecobee with sensors on both floors. We also needed a horizontal condenser unit due to a required 3 foot offset in the sideyard so that added an extra 1.5k.

Could you elaborate on the duct issue for dual zone? I have a single zone (that is almost 20yo), but it goes to two distinct zones of the house with two discharges off the air handler - upstairs and downstairs. I hope it can be zoned when the time comes to drop...5~10k on it.

(If I do new flooring and appliances before replacing the HVAC, the HVAC will die and I will have to raid my efund, won't I? Law of house expenses or something, I assume?)

SpartanIvy posted:

Unfortunately not. The vents aren't just rectangles. They are made up of like 6 different triangles so even if I ripped out the mesh you couldn't fit anything bigger than a smallish pipe through. Complicating things even more is that those are on the brick facade, and there's another set of vents behind them that are offset somewhat. So I couldn't even make use of the entire vent width if I busted the whole thing out of the facade.

E: this setup also makes it impossible to replace the wire mesh on some of the vents that have holes in them!

That sounds fun.

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Presumably the utility starts developing energy storage systems, which I have to assume are cheaper to run than generators. If nothing else, their inputs and outputs are solely electricity and maybe water/steam. Buy power at wholesale rates, keep it for a bit, then sell it at market rates; sounds simple enough.

There will always be need for some baseline power generation. But you wouldn't need nearly so much in the way of peak power generation capacity, because peak demand is usually during the day when solar is generating. Peak capacity plants sit idle most of the time and are often expensive and polluting to run, so getting rid of those is a big win.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pumped-storage_hydroelectricity

Gin_Rummy posted:

I would�ve, but I wasn�t home to do so. I left my girlfriend there with my credit card assuming it�d be no problem to swipe it...

But to echo some previous posters� sentiments: I feel like if say, the repair was done incorrectly or poorly and then they tried to charge me two weeks from now to do the same thing, it�d be easier to go to my credit card company to dispute the initial charge (�hey, they didn�t actually do this service and they won�t refund me�) than my bank after paying in cash. Plus, I just prefer the credit card overall because of them sweet, sweet airline miles off these big expenditures.

Violation of TOS. Write him a check... And get a final invoice that is marked PAID.

CloFan posted:

If you still have the original carb, you should disassemble and clean it. Running aftermarket carbs can be a pain in the rear end to tune, and the old one is probably serviceable with some TLC. https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/642/how-do-i-know-when-to-change-my-spark-plug/649 Check the chart in the answer post

Yep. Carb tuning from one application to another isn't ideal. Cleaning carbs is usually the way to go.

QuarkJets posted:

You might consider replacing the posts first, replacing the posts is going to be a bit easier with no fence and it's something that you'll have to do soon anyway. In fact usually you need to replace the posts several times before you need to replace the fencing itself, assuming the posts are also wood. Since the posts are basically standalone you could lever them out of their holes and drop in new posts without having to dig new holes

You don't want a circular saw for the horizontal pieces, you want a miter saw. A miter saw will cut a lot easier and more precisely

It's good to prime first but a lot of outdoor paints come with primer. A coat of some sort of sealant afterward can help the paint last longer but is optional

When putting up fencing one plank at a time I think it's best to start from the bottom and work up, if you wound up misestimating the number of planks or the width of the planks then it's a lot easier to fix the issue if you started from the bottom

I would strongly agree with your points here. Replace post before building the new fence section. And a miter saw is the right way to do it. It'll get the cut quality you want, and it's easier. And more expensive.

# ¿ Aug 6, 2018 02:45

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# ¿ May 14, 2024 02:01

SiGmA_X: May 3, 2004; SiGmA_X

Higgy posted:

Spent most of Saturday deep cleaning the garage and organizing everything properly instead of continuing to let everything slowly spread out and accumulate.

I spent a good few minutes just standing in my driveway looking into my garage with my hands on my hips admiring how clean and organized everything looked.

What's wrong with me?

Sounds fine to me.

# ¿ Aug 6, 2018 05:56

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Ask/Tell > Business, Finance, and Careers > Homeowners: I own 8 different power saws, primarily to attract a mate.

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