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Kirios posted:Smart homes seem incredibly not worth the time, effort or money and it still astounds me that people actually pour money into this poo poo. my boss is building a house and the smart home package started at 15k. anything beyond immediately increases the price by at least 5k. I'm just thinking... uh, nah.
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Jun 23, 2017 21:38
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Previa_fun posted:The wife and I bought our first house just over a month ago. Condolences to us. Current projects are basic paint/clean/easy repair work. The house was built in '75 on a concrete slab and is in generally sound condition overall. get multiple bids for HVAC.
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Jul 12, 2017 14:22
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I'm not sure what you're asking. You want a gas-powered push mower. Just get one, they're pretty much disposable at this point like everything else you'll ever buy. I've had something like this for 4 years now: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Toro-22-in-Recycler-SmartStow-High-Wheel-Variable-Speed-Walk-Behind-Gas-Self-Propelled-Mower-20339/205026227
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Jul 12, 2017 19:47
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If you're mowing multiple lawns I'd avoid electric.
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Jul 12, 2017 20:09
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Subjunctive posted:Why is that? I mow a neighbour-shared back yard and two smallish front yards with an old, simple electric and it seems to work fine. What am I missing? I seem to remember the best electric mower only giving you 45 minutes to an hour of battery life. My yard isn't huge, by mid-western standards, but it still takes me 45 minutes to push mow it, even self-propelled. If you're doing 2-3 of these, you're going to stretch your lawn-mowing day waaaaay out waiting for charge. I would think. I guess this could've changed since the last time I did any real reading about electric mowers.
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Jul 12, 2017 21:41
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Hubis posted:Here are some decent control tips Be careful with that glyphosate, I'm pretty sure it turns frogs gay.
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Jul 31, 2017 15:59
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Just mow before they do next year.
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Aug 9, 2017 03:24
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Yeah you need to call an abatement company because you shouldn't gently caress with asbestos.
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Aug 16, 2017 03:30
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Mine was a 6k and I sleep much better at night now that it's 1k
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Sep 21, 2017 04:23
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I replaced the water intake valve on my fridge and apparently wiggled my icemaker line to the point that it leaked water onto my wood floor for a couple days before I figured out what happened. Now I have a large bow in the floor (3 months later) that I'm pretty sure won't go away. I'm wondering if I can contact my homeowners insurance about a leak or if I need to just bite the bullet and replace the floor soon.
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Nov 15, 2017 19:01
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H110Hawk posted:For 10 sq ft of floor replacement you're not looking at much higher than you deductible in repair costs unless the water got a lot further. You can always take a bunch of pictures then tear it up. The internet tells me $14/sqft is the high end of wood pricing, plus labor to R&R, fix any hidden problems, and stain to match. I bet it's around $1,000 to get it done, assuming no major problems hidden underneath it. It hasn't gotten any worse. The floor is 20 years old at this point and I have no idea if you could actually match the stain at this point at all or not. But I've only got 200 sq ft of hardwood, so I would imagine given the difficulty of finding any contractor around here who could actually patch and match, it would be best to do the whole floor.
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Nov 15, 2017 21:26
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I'm about to go get quotes to pull and replace a patch of wood floor, then refinish the whole thing. Also new carpet for the bedrooms. I hate dealing with contractors.
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Jan 3, 2018 14:52
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:At this point, I would file a complaint with the State Utility Board so they can gently caress this company in the rear end with the long dick of government bureaucracy. As someone who works for a utility, yeah. Contact your local news. Utilities are so scared of them.
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Jan 5, 2018 02:44
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CitizenKain posted:So, when putting a house up for sale, I assume it is standard practice to remove the flag with a nazi symbol on it before listing it. Because poking around zillow I found someone who looks like they missed that memo. Screenshots
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Jan 30, 2018 03:23
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Is that the skull thing?
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Jan 30, 2018 03:32
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How are we feeling about Lowes? They're pretty close to my house. (and you can just google a movers coupon)
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Jan 30, 2018 19:30
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Meter readers will get their poo poo wrecked at work for curb reading. Just call and ask for someone to verify and they'll fix it up and you won't have that problem again.
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Feb 6, 2018 03:00
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but the drywall out and just install a new piece. It's faster. Also don't tile over laminate.
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Feb 20, 2018 16:56
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It's called mudjacking or polyjacking.
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Apr 30, 2018 19:44
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Mowing is for mornings. I do it even earlier now as revenge for my neighbors' four (FOUR) Chihuahua's who never shut the gently caress up.
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May 14, 2018 15:36
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enraged_camel posted:Attic insulation (spray foam): hire a professional, or learn to do it myself by reading guides and watching YouTube videos? I got 3 bids and ended up hiring someone for not very much more than it would have cost me to DIY, and I didn't have to sweat.
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May 21, 2018 17:19
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Uh, why is your HVAC drawing air from the attic? I have cellulose in my attic and in my knee walls and have not really had any issues at all. Of course I also never go in my attic because... why would I?
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May 23, 2018 20:53
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Crosspostin' My house is two stories plus a finished basement. I replaced the HVAC and zoned the duct work 3 years ago. I have created solar screens (90%) and placed them over my large back windows to cut down on heat transfer. I have also closed the inexplicably installed duct bypass that was dumping conditioned air back into the return of my HVAC instead of pumping it upstairs. My house was 82 yesterday. I know it was a really hot day, but it should never be that hot, especially with me running the A/C all day. I've got an HVAC guy coming to clean the coils and do PMCS on the condenser and fan, but I'm wondering if I'm just having air flow issues or maybe my coil is freezing up from running for 16 hours straight every day. Any other ideas from anyone before I pay for an energy audit to see where heat is entering the house?
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Jun 29, 2018 16:44
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Hubis posted:How cold is the air coming of your registers? Does your thermostat have an indoor humidity indicator? It's cool, not ice cold, not as cold as when I was dumping conditioned air into the return. Indoor humidity is currently 58%
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Jun 29, 2018 19:05
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skipdogg posted:Was it working properly before and now it's not working as well? How large is the A/C unit, how big is the conditioned space of the house? Can you see the coils easily from where it's installed? It worked slightly better than the old SEER like.. 4 system we replaced, although the zoning to push everything upstairs to cool the bedrooms to tolerable for the evening was really the only thing. I still have insane electric bills. It's a 4 ton system I think, 2300 sq ft of conditioned space plus another 700 basement or so. I may be able to see the coils, I think there's only one access panel. I can't find air flow restrictions other than maybe there just flat not being enough returns. I'll have to check my seals and see if I can't get the energy audit guy there soon.
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Jun 29, 2018 19:09
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One handler and zoned ductwork.
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Jun 29, 2018 21:41
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SiGmA_X posted:Variable speed handler? What type of zone control? I only know a little about it, but if the zoning was designed to use a bypass (kind of retrofit/hack job type of deal) and you removed it...problem found? Ive tried the bypass both ways. Doesn't seem to make a difference. Single speed handler. It was a retrofit on the existing ducting.
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Jun 29, 2018 23:56
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So my condenser was clogged with 2 years worth of yard clippings and laundry lint. Thing may still be a bit undersized for my house but at least I'm not paying 500/mo for an 82 degree house now. Closer to 350/mo for a 72 degree house. Whatever, I've got the energy audit guy coming to tell me where to air seal tomorrow. e: Also, re: the Nest. I work for an electric utility with a similar program. They send you the nest and a 50 dollar check, then a 25 dollar check yearly for having it installed. The catch is they can adjust your thermostat up 4-5 degrees on peak demand days 5-8 times a summer. You can immediately set it back to your old setting if you'd like. That's it. I would take advantage of it because playing with my thermostat from my bed or office is cool.
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Jul 2, 2018 14:52
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Just keep your old thermostat in your basement or something and swap them back out?
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Jul 2, 2018 18:41
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potatoducks posted:Experiences with dual zone AC anyone? We need to put in central air, and I'm looking at my options. I have a dual zoned system with one unit. I would recommend going with the variable stage motor.
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Jul 2, 2018 19:55
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My HOA has grass rules but the 3 weeks between cuts I tend to leave has informed me that they don't enforce them. Grass is stupid and I don't give a gently caress if it's 3 inches long.
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Jul 18, 2018 03:38
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Always get three bids. When we replaced ours for 3100 Sq ft of conditioned space, we had quotes from 5500 to 21000. Granted, this is KC, but I would imagine you're getting taken for a ride, especially considering the time of year. If you can limp to September those prices will come down.
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Jul 19, 2018 03:26
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4 and yeah, 3200 gets used up quick, especially with a colossally stupid configuration.
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Jul 19, 2018 17:38
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In my case, it's more a function of poor layout. 2300 sq ft on the ground floor and upstairs, then another 900 sq ft of finished basement, which is half guest area for our families when they visit and half playroom for the kids. The entire upstairs is dedicated to bedrooms, but the idiots who built the place designed a master suite that takes up more room than the other 3 bedrooms combined, easily. Hell, both the bathroom and the closet are larger than any of the other bedrooms. It's stupid, and I hate it and one day I shall move into a sensible ranch house made of brick.
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Jul 19, 2018 17:46
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Leperflesh posted:Net metering is unsustainable, because the price you pay for a kilowatt hour from your utility company includes the costs of transmission (which includes the amortized costs of constructing transmission infrastructure). To be sustainable, the utility company should only pay generators the wholesale cost of generated power. It is also the case that having lots of people at the end nodes of transmission networks feeding power back into the system requires systemic upgrades and more flexibility in generation, which adds costs. Hey this is wrong! The first part anyway. Utilities push solar as a form of demand management and then upgrade their transmission and distribution lines as large capital projects instead, which allows them to still generate revenue while upgrading the infrastructure.
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Aug 1, 2018 01:15
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I never said it didn't come from customers, you just said the utility wouldn't be able to recover the costs to maintain it's infrastructure, which was incorrect.
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Aug 1, 2018 18:16
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Leperflesh posted:Basically, if lots more people get solar and take advantage of net metering paying retail price per kilowatt to them, the utility is increasingly unable to recover the costs of its infrastructure. But also I think I misread the post when I responded to it. He's absolutely correct about net metering.
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Aug 1, 2018 18:57
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I'm assuming some sort of set-up just utilizing peakers? I guess it depends on the region, too. A lot of utilities (at least regulated) are working on developing non-regulated arms of the business so that they can find ways to be a part of the post-electricity scarcity world.
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Aug 1, 2018 19:50
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I have a zoned system with dampers. The upstairs thermostat is wireless. Can I just use a nest sensor up there and ditch the extra dumb thermostat?
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Oct 11, 2018 00:12
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Motronic posted:Not without running wires from the zone controller. I'm really just hoping for anything wireless and programmable that will work with my damper system.
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Oct 11, 2018 04:02
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