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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Looking at buying a condo that as far as I can tell is mostly non structural walls. The plan would be to leave the master bedroom as-is, and then the other bedroom would end up being the kids' bedroom. Since they would not be able to pay rent for at least 18 years, seems like if we want a bigger living room, delete one of their closets, move the shared living room wall back into their room, and then shrink the ridiculous walk in closet down to a normal sized closet to sort of reclaim some of the space.



How insane is this? The current living room is 11' wide, pulling the bedroom wall back would expand it to 13'. Deleting the 2' deep closet on the same plane as that bedroom wall would bring tons of light into the kitchen/entry way, and make a straight line of sight from the front door all the way to the bay windows which makes way more effective use of the space between entry and living room. The walk-in closet is ~5' wide and 6' deep so we'd reclaim 3' and have the closet open towards the window.

End result:

Living room: 11x18 = 198 sq ft -> 13x18 = 234 sq ft
Bedroom: 10.5x14 = 147 sq ft -> 8.5x17 = 144.5 sq ft

Also what would that cost? There's no electrical in any of these walls. I figure we can demolish and paint the new walls ourselves, we just need a bonded guy to install the new walls put up drywall, probably do ~100 sq ft of flooring work.

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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Yeah I've never done reno work before but it seems like a three day job max for two people, like it would take more time to get materials in and out of the building than actually build a new straight partition wall and put up the drywall. Looking at zillow at least one other unit in the building has done something similar in the last ten years.

I don't want to say reno cost is not a problem, but the condo is definitely within our budget and meets a lot of other needs/criteria.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

skipdogg posted:

I refuse to believe there is no electrical outlets on those walls.

Save yourself a headache and find a different place better suited to you

Or do what you want to do and post a thread about it so we can mock and laugh at you during the process.

Are you in the Bay Area?

Also 3 days lol. That’s TV show poo poo. You’d have a hard time getting the drywall installed and finished in 3 days.

Groverhouse2.txt

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Gonna insulate the underside of my stairs, brb

You can put a barbecue right up against the vinyl siding right

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

If you want a smart switch, we use this one to run our flourecent bulb in the kitchen, it was like $25 and besides a bloody knuckle was easy to wire in. Just make sure you turn off the circuit breaker first. Or hire an electrician.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071SJ977G

If you have a reeeeeeallly old house you might not have a neutral wire but that's unlikely.

I don't like buying no name stuff because if the company goes under your poo poo will stop working the next day. Phillips is probably going to be around at least another decade. The price premium is worth having my crap not stop working.

Eufy is owned by Anker which is why I went with them since they're a healthy company (right now). And Phillips doesn't sell a dedicated wired switch (yet)

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Jan 31, 2020

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I guess I misunderstood, he has smart bulbs but he wants people who don't know how to use voice control to be able to turn them off. I'll re-read it later.

And yeah a formal open standard would be good. I think Ikea bulbs are compatible with Phillips hue over zigbee wireless, so maybe they already are?

I haven't used wifi bulbs yet but from what I understand, zigbee has significantly more range which can help depending on your floorplan and outdoor landscaping.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I worked in the commercial furniture industry for a few years and 3-4 weeks lead time is pretty fast. Since most of that stuff (the good stuff) is built domestically the plant managers prefer minimum 4 week lead time to schedule factory shifts efficiently etc etc and then the shipment needs to get scheduled, plus another five days to ship and you're already at 5 weeks. Throw in a badly timed weekend or holiday, a late materials shipment to the factory, or your lead Carpenter is in jail for drunk driving (again) and six weeks is pretty safe guesstimate. Tack on an extra week slop time in case poo poo goes sideways so the shipment arrives on time or early. Furniture factories are extremely blue collar and the only two people who know what day of the month it is are the plant manager and the payroll secretary.

You can bump the order up but you need a line to the factory floor and be willing to pay 15-20% expedite fee. If you ask they might have some extremely common items "fast ship" but you're stuck with those color options.

If you want off the shelf prebuilt stuff they can get it to your house tomorrow, Ikea has a bunch of options but nothing truly custom

Talk to your furniture guy, build rapport see if they can get more info from the factory and see if they have options that could ship faster

Not sure but I'm guessing they have to stop production for 3/4"-1" cabinets because all their machines are probably tooled to do 3/8 and then que up other sizes and switch the whole factory over to 3/4" for a week, then back to 3/8". If you place your order a week before they tool for 3/4" it might be fast, or you might miss out on that cycle and get scheduled for the next one in six weeks

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Feb 4, 2020

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Does anyone have suggestions for weather stripping for modern aluminum casement windows? My weather stripping looks to be original. It's still flexible but is also the weakest link in the soundproofing of my triple pane glass stuff. I'll have to measure it but looks like 3mm thick stuff

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

"Powerful drill with a fat spade bit" sounds like a recipe for a wrenched wrist, personally.

Once you get to the 1/2" bit size drills start sprouting additional handles and become a two-handed affair

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

joepinetree posted:

The problem is with the oven selector switch

I am not an oven repair man, but 120v rotary switches are a dime a dozen (ok maybe they're $1.29 each these days), might be worth contacting your local TV repair shop and see what they can do. The knob might not fit the new rotary switch 100% but you could probably cobble together an adapter with some epoxy putty or whatever

Ripping out a cabinet because the oven repair guy doesn't know how to work a soldering iron seems excessive, but like I said, not an appliance repair guy

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Residency Evil posted:

How do I make sure my insurance isn’t bad?

This is a good question!

My MIL got in a wreck recently and was payin $250+/mo for total coverage, but because nobody else was involved she wasn't covered, wrote off a ~$16,000 car she'd been paying oodles of money to insure each month and got great big goose egg payout. She had either gold plated comprehensive or collision, but not both, and the one that didn't cover her situation

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

My experiences with traveling to ultra poor countries/regions (I think north of 40 now), is that they all use the tankless water heaters. This could be two reasons

1. cheaper to manufacturer/ship/total profit margin for store
2. way way way more efficient, mandated by government

Either way, very interesting that like 70% of the developing world uses tankless, very rare to see tank heaters abroad in my experience. My guess would be that as the end user, you want the cheapest total cost of ownership which for whatever reason ends up being tankless, or at least, 3+ billion people have been very convincingly lied to

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Our house got the $1/gallon flat white matte paint they use to slap on top of the old paint for staging right before we bought it, it will scuff if you even look at it too long and has the texture of a dusty chalkboard. I do not think cheaper paint exists in the world

From what I understand toddlers will just destroy your house anyways, so going to try and not think about it until that stage of our lives is over and let them crayon the walls for now and then plan on putting in new floors and repaint the whole house after they are 5-6 or whenever the rate of destruction plateaus

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Democratic Pirate posted:

Behr Premium Plus ($25/gal) for me because it’s the interior paint on all my walls and the second I put anything nicer on one wall I will have signed a binding agreement with my wife to repaint the whole house.

My landlord many years ago, I rented a older duplex and the previous tennants lived there for 10 years, and we both knew I was going to be there for at least 5 years so he said to me, pick out the colors you want for each room, and then tell me and I'll go buy the paint, but you have to paint it.

So I ended up with a harvest yellow kitchen, light blue living room, deep red dining room, and sage bedrooms

Anyways, yeah he got me the $25/gal behr premium plus and that's exactly what is going on the walls of my house now, it's a joy to paint with and doesn't scuff. I'm sure if you drew on it with crayons it would wipe right off. And it looks amazing.

Current paint in my house, already has scuff marks just from moving in an general wear and tear after 6 weeks. It's absolute garbage.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Bats also carry coronavirus :toot:

Not even joking

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

pmchem posted:

what are the absolutely essential things a homeowner needs that can be purchased from Home Depot? I'll be making a trip there soon and want to make as few trips as possible.

Apparently either the home depot and/or lowes mobile app will tell you where a particular item is located, asile, bin number even

I've not tried it myself but supposedly it works really well

You can't buy this at home depot/lowes but I suggest the Bosch brand, seems to be what everyone who isn't forced to buy at brick and mortar: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GT0IWK/ as well as a set of bosch bits https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073HTDXC9/

Also also

Bosch laser level https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ40TOM/

Bosch laser tape measure https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CG97GR2/

Backup wired drill & dedicated extension cord

Also also also,

Decided that rigid tool boxes suck, I have two of these in the house, plus one on the boat:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047O3JQM/

And then I have some (10?) of these, to help group tools into logical groups; crecent wrenches, screw driver stuff, bicycle-specific stuff etc

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD5H8/


But uh yeah

Full set of imperial and metric sockets/crecent wrenches, hacksaw, big and little sized vise grips, if you have a spot for it a bence vise is not a terrible idea

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Sundae posted:

impending (but not yet filed) lawsuit by the HOA against the developers for construction defects, which will either be handled by the lawsuit or by a $50K per unit special assessment. but I'm betting a lot of major structural things, because $50K per unit is like $13M in repair bills. Even in the bay area,

We got disclosures on an SB800 building we were looking at in February, PM me and I can maybe send you some documents to give you an idea of what it might look like

SB800 the building has a limited amount of time to file the lawsuit, so they file it so they can get the money, it's basically standard operating procedure to sue the construction company X time after the building is built. If they don't file any lawsuit, the builder carries no liability at all for the life of the building after that lawsuit due date. Or something. I'm not a lawyer.

Anyways the building we looked at, it was a bunch of petty bullshit, like flashing (waterproofing) for window sills, and some water got behind the stonework at street level and the adhesive failed and the stone had to be replaced, the window washer people crane mount was a foot too far to the left, and the crane they bought for the building was the budget model not the deluxe model, and they used a brushed door handle when they should have used chrome for the exterior door on the maintenance part of the roof. Weird, petty poo poo, but the building would probably fall apart without it in 30 years. I think they were asking for, yeah about $12 millon, a bunch of it grossly overpriced, I think they wanted $6,000 to swap the door handle even though it's a standard-esque $800 yale door handle... mostly labor I guess, I dunno.

I don't blame them for dragging their feet on filing the sb800 late; once there's an SB800 on the books, it's nearly impossible to sell until the litigation is fully resolved, which, talking to realtors, takes ~2 years on average? New Republic will loan on sb800 buildings but only for buyers with 20% cash down, no less, good luck finding a buyer. The SB800 building we looked at sat on the market in a prime location for 6 weeks before selling, pre-covid

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

My uncle informs me that there is "rat shot" you can buy for your shotgun

:page3:

Andy Dufresne posted:

I really think it would be tough for me to murder a glued down rat. As it turns out the person buying my house is an ER vet with a terrier and a cat so maybe I'll let her deal with the rats.

At a couple places I lived at we had bug problems, typically no rodent problems (that I knew of)

My cats would periodically barf up a bunch of stuff. Like, 2-3x a week. Vet just said "yep cats do that". Finally realized my next door neighbor that our bathrooms shared a wall with, was an industrial user of cockroach bait to offset her.... cleanliness habits. It wasn't until one cat barfed up a half eaten bug that I put two and two together. We bombed the entire quad-plex, twice, about a week apart, and that mostly solved the problem, cats started barfing a whole lot less

Moved to a newer building with significantly less need for anti pest stuff, cat barfed 2-3 time right after we moved in, probably due to stress, has not barfed once since.

TL;DR there are unintended, is minor environmental effects of using poison

More tangential story, we have Parrots here in the bay area, wild ones, and they've been having weird neurological problems lately that can mostly be attributed to the poision used in rat poison. My pet (no pun intended) theory is that the tourism department has been poisoning the seagulls/pigeons over by pier 39/waterfront and ended up cross-poisoning the parrots too. It is really weird how few seagulls are in the bay area given how much trash there is.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

skipdogg posted:

Chu020 those quotes seem really really high

I am not an AC person but sounds like you might be able to fix it with a new relay/control board, possibly a new compressor pump which should be a couple hundred bucks in parts plus another couple hudo for labor

AC people like putting in new systems because the more they sell, the better discount they get from their distributor next year, plus they know exactly how long it's going to take to put it in because that's probably their preferred model/brand etc and they don't have to waste any time loving around troubleshooting what's actually wrong

Also also, it's middle of summer so they know they have you over a barrel with a wife and kids potentially baking in the house all summer

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Something shifted ever so slightly and now my air tight soundproof casement window has a 1/2mm gap, just enough so that I can tell if the car outside is a 4, 6 or 8 cylinder etc; it's no longer deadening sound

I'm really not up to the task this week of replacing the entire seal, especially if it shifts back after our three week long summer is over, is there something I can shim it with? Preferably black and not super sticky.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

We're looking at removing our oven, we only use this fancy toaster oven that will fit a standard 13" frozen pizza.

We timed it, it's 18 minutes to preheat the big oven, and takes 16 minutes to cook a pizza; vs 3:45 to preheat the toaster oven, and in convection bake mode it cooks the pizza in 11:30. Total cook time for the pizza oven including preheat is less time than it takes for the big oven to preheat. I used the same oven thermometer in both to eliminate lovely thermostats.

We had two ovens in our house growing up in Texas, I don't ever recall using the second oven even once. My high school girlfriends mom used their spare oven to store all their Tupperware, which predictably melted when someone preheated it once to make cookies without checking to see what was inside.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

What is everybody using for water/leak sensors? I'm terms of brand name it looks like Samsung and Honeywell sell them, and then a bunch of fly by night brands

Putting in (two!) washers and a dryer this week, would like to find out about the leak before my hardwood floors or neighbors do

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

StormDrain posted:

Is that a long form dril tweet?

Water management around your home is a holistic endeavor. Preventing water is better than sealing things.

:hmmyes: Username and advice combo checks out

This advice also applies to boats

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

Help I feel like I'm getting roasted here!!

Is "normal condensation and corrosion from a healthy induced draft assembly pitched as a problem" a common hvac scam??

I generally assume any service person is trying to scam me into paying more than I absolutely need to for their own benefit

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Fence chat:

If it's just a traditional fence with posts cemented in the ground, you ought to be able to cut the posts at the ground and move the fence back 2' or whatever, dig new posts and bolt the fence to the new posts. All the labor is building the fence, you can dig 8 new post holes in an afternoon if it's rained recently.

Now, if your neighbor's wife has her dead mother's rose garden backed up against that fence, or whatever, and it's not just flat bermuda grass it's a whole different story because now you're re-landscaping a big chunk of their (your) backyard

Might be worth getting a document signed saying that this section is your back yard, they are liable for repairs on the fence, and after X years (3 years?) you have a no cost option to tear down the fence at your cost and build a new fence on the correct property line. That way they get to keep the fence for a while, and it's not a financial surprise for them when you move the fence, and you're not burning bridges with your neighbor on day 0

Unless the guy personally poo poo on your front porch I would not get them to pay for anything besides repairs for storm damage, you gotta deal with that guy for a really long time

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Oct 6, 2020

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Yeah unless you live in downtown baltimore or something the chances you're going to get hit by the local chop shop mafia again are astronomical

You're better off installing "the club"

You could always install those removable bollards they put at the ends of bike paths in your driveway, I guess. Hard to steal a car that can't physically roll out of your driveway. They might take it as a challenge, though



Amazon sells those solar powered led motion sensor things that you just screw into the siding for about $30 a pop, and will need a new set of rechargable AA batteries every fall. Adding extra light is probably effective, especially if you convince your neighbors on either side of you to invest in lights as well. It always stunned me that some neighborhoods turned their front porch light off most nights, that's probably the lowest effort thing you can do to minimize crime in any neighborhood, and modern LED lights cost maybe a dollar a year to run 24/7

Fake security cameras are about $10 each and equally effective at both 1) deterring crime and 2) apprehending those responsible

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Huh, did she bear any resemblance to Warren Buffett's wife

Last winter we had some young lady sleeping rough outside the fire escape door in our old apartment building, thankfully it never gets very cold here but I was able to dig some thicker cardboard boxes out of the shared dumpster to give her some insulation from the raw concrete and provide a bit of a wind break. I never actually talked to her though.

Generally the first thing I did when moving to a new rental place was clean the glass on the front porch light (dead bugs and dirt block light transmission), and then upgrade the bulb to the brightest, whitest light that would safely fit in the socket

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

OSU_Matthew posted:

Y’all leaving your porch lights on 24x7 are contributing to light pollution, stahp

Get hosed; my front lawn is best off looking like JFK airport hosed a christmas tree; if you don't cast a shadow my lights aren't working right

You keep your dark-rear end house looking like the crack house at the end of the street, I know which house is going to get cased first

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

FuzzySlippers posted:

Anyone have a recommendation for a solid indoor air quality monitor?

Purple Air? I'm assuming you either don't live on the west coast, or you've been living under a rock the last 8 weeks

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Probably a bad gasket somewhere, needs new gasket, might be able to get away with refilling the refrigerant for a couple more years if it's a slow leak

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004


You still need to solve the rats problem first before fixing the AC. Find their food and water supply(ies), and get rid of those, talk to your neighbors etc

You got a super high quote from the ventless guy because he can tell you think the ventless ac is going to magically solve your rats problem

fake edit: do you want to solve the rats problem, or do you just want to not see them?

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004


Are you hiring out 100% of the work? That might be the problem. I'm probably wrong, but the way you're phrasing things, it sounds like you're hiring contractors to come up with solutions and then paying them to do the work. Sometimes if you want it done right, you need to do it yourself.

Looking forward to those photos

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Yeah I think we're all trying to help you here. Internet wisdom isn't always terrible

It sounds like the refrigerant condenser line from the AC unit outside the house, there's a hole in your wall that the line goes in, and the gap is filled with expanding foam insulation, which, right absolutely, the rats will just chew right through that.... If there's a reason to do so. Buy that sounds like the hole is just open to the outside right now, which is how/why they are getting in. And even then, you ought to be able to mount a tight fitting plywood plate over the foam to provide a mechanical barrier to the foam to prevent chewing. Metal flashing and some tin snips might be better, hard to say

That's what I'm imagining, anyways. Photos, like everyone else has said, will help tremendously.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004


Oh wow, so not only is your condenser outside, but the blower and everything sits directly on the ground? What used to sit on that AC sized foundation right next to it?

That installation looks like absolute dogshit, what sits above that unfinished hole in the wall inside the house? I can't imagine that meets code, looks like somebody's drunk grandpa did it, rather than doing it right. The reason nobody wants to fix it for you is it's probably unpermitted modifications to the wall/foundation that were cleverly hidden before you bought it

Seems like,

1) rotate the condenser unit 90 degrees and put it on that concrete slab so you have room to work and run a new stretch of vent,
2) seal up that hole and start over
3) cut a new, clean hole that is the correct size
4) pour a new 2" deep slab, a little wider than your vents, from the AC unit to the hole so you have a flat surface to seal to (probably 3-6 bags of $0.99 concrete)
5) extend/replace the vent from the AC unit's new position to the house, along the new concrete foundation you just poured
6) install flashing from the AC unit to the vent, insulate it, seal everything with aluminum outdoor grade, real "ducting tape"
7) install flashing from the house to the vent, then seal everything with that tape

TL;DR

move unit 3 feet away from the hole
Pour concrete between the unit and the hole
Get rid of anything where your AC system is coming in contact with the ground*
Add more vent tubing
Do a proper flashing job against the new vent tubing

*Holy poo poo why is everything sitting on the dirt, :wtc:

Moving the unit onto the existing pad should take an hour, additional venting ought to be less than$100, concrete and forms, along with digging down 3" to pour the base couldn't be more than $1000.... Fixing that abortion of a hole in the side of your house might cost you $2000? More? Looks like somebody took a pickaxe to it under cover of darkness

Once everything is sitting on concrete you can seal aluminum flashing to it with glue and rats can't dig under/through the concrete/metal

Your whole setup looks like a temporary job that somebody would hack together for burning man, not a permanent install

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 05:50 on Oct 14, 2020

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Yeah pouring a new foundation and adding some flashing is going to be less than $5000

Find a real AC company, I'm stunned you think that their records are worth keeping them as somebody who you would trust. More likely they don't want anybody else to see the dogshit work they did and call the city inspector, who would make them Do It Right at no cost to you.

Is it legal to have 120v HVAC units sitting on the ground in California? That install would not pass code in Texas in a million years

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

The unit you have looks like it was salvaged off the roof of a restaurant or dentists office or something

The right way to do it would be to buy a Trane brand 1.5 ton (or whatever is sized correctly for your house) condenser unit, then buy a combo ac/furnace and stick that in your mechanical closet and/or garage, or in the roof, and then run the condenser line (which is drilled with a 1.5" drill bit, and you run a 1.25" pipe through the hole, squirt it with some foam for good measure, no rat will chew it fit through that, especially 12" off the ground) through the wall to the combo ac/furnace, and then have the combo unit feed the ducting. In older homes with AC retrofit it's not uncommon to run it along the ceiling along one corner and then drywall/paint over it.

Oh, and put the condenser on a concrete slab

I wouldn't look into multi zone AC unless your house is at least 3,500 sq ft, not worth it. If you have one room that gets excessively warm (western exposure living room with lots of windows, no trees) that would be a good candidate for a single install of a ventless AC unit. 3500 is the bare minimum, but realistically you need like 4200 sq ft with a bunch of unused bedrooms/bathrooms for that to be worth it

My friend growing up had two AC systems, the primary cooled the whole house and master bedroom, and then the secondary cooled the other three bedrooms (~600 sq ft including bathrooms). Once their kids moved out, they would keep the kids bedrooms at 82F or whatever and the rest of the house at 73F

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 15:26 on Oct 14, 2020

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

We've bought three so far

This

https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-50250-S-True-HEPA-Purifier/dp/B00007E7RY/

We got this one because it has a mechanical switch and we could put it on an automated timer for three hours every night, but it's ugly and takes up a lot of floor space. It lives at my mother in law's house now

This

Ugggh not going to look it up, but it has a glowing blue led stripe like a blue cylon :awesomelon: and the air shoots out to one side, and the air flow kind of sucks, we only recently pulled it out of storage due to wildfires

This one I don't hate:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07HMMM8LH

The air flow is really good, the air shoots out straight ahead (most shoot out at an angle) uses the same C-1 and F-1 standard HEPA filters as above. Also no bright lights etc to annoy you at night

UV C does kill covid19 instantly, so it's not a total gimmick right now, but otherwise yeah it's useless

If it died tomorrow I'd buy another one. It's not super gimmicky, is relatively quiet and just works. And the handle on top is really nice

If you're going to get an air filter, get a roomba too, pets create an unholy amount of dust, dogs in particular. Eufy makes a pretty acceptable roomba knock off for not a lot of money

Also also, the air filter will only filter the air within about 9 square feet of the filter, get something like a vornado 660 to fully circulate the air

https://www.amazon.com/Vornado-CR1-0121-06-Large-Whole-Circulator/dp/B0025QKUE8/

We have one in almost every room now and they're loving amazing, even on the lowest setting, and they're dead quiet

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

That one looks fine, just looks like a fancy box fan with an air filter
Me personally, I'd get two of my tower models

I, too, have barfy cats, the roomba isn't damaged by cat barf or hairballs

Roomba now sells a line of mops, we just got a braava but we haven't tested it out yet as we're still rearranging furniture in the house

Strong recommend on the roomba, that was life changing as an owner of two cats. Pet owners are the number 1 buyers of roombas. Air filters fix the symptoms of dust, but roombas actually solve the root problem.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

The high school bully now runs his own roofing company and is an ardent q-anon supporter

I'd ask him his opinions on adrenachrome and see where that leads

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

We had several second hand electric mowers growing up, I never had to mow more than 1/8th acre with one, but even the shittiest ones did a pretty good job. And yeah thick wet grass needed some special tactics periodically

As far as I'm concerned, gas lawnmower engines are hermetically sealed except for the gas tank :colbert:

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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

Front loaders use

the washer vibrates like crazy, washing takes about 15 minutes longer than a top load, and of course you need to keep the door cracked for about an hour after use.

We got a modern LG model and it has a way to balance the load, so it's not vibrating like crazy, works really well for us

We also got the ventless washer dryer combo, which was pricey at about $2k, but allowed us to put a washer/dryer in our apartment at the time that wasn't plumbed/ventilated for one

After using ventless washer dryers all over SE Asia we just had to have one. It's an incredible concept. Put dirty clothes in, come back three hours later, pull out dry, clean clothes. No remembering to switch it over to the dryer half way through

Also, because it has an integrated dryer, you can close the door

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