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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I think this is another case of "invented/popularized here first, everybody else started with the better/redesigned stuff when it got to their country 20 years later", meanwhile in the US it's, "well this is the X granpappy had, so I'll be damned if I change" :bahgawd:

See also, SMS, GSM cell phones (sim cards etc), 50hz 240v electricity, uh, I forget the others

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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

SpartanIvy posted:

I'm looking to buy a modern washer/dryer in the near future and this post may have totally changed my direction in what I was looking for.

This is the model we got back in ~2018, I'm sure there's a newer 2020 version that's essentially the same

We really, really like it. We used to have to double-wash half of our loads because we put them in the wash at like 11pm and then forget until three days later and they smelled kinda funky. Now we just always have clean dry clothes ready to go in the washer. Game changer. Wife is never ever going back.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LIAP2ZY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you're about to have kids, and laundry is a major pain point in your household, and money is no object, LG sells a 1.0 cu ft capacity washer called a "sidekick" that sits underneath it, get ended up getting one of those as well, great for when the kid barfs on themselves and you need to wash it immediately for about $700

https://www.lg.com/us/pedestal-washers



I think the latest washers offer "TWINWash" which uh, allows it to network to the main ventless washer/dryer for... I'm not sure why you would need that, but it's available

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I'm not a big fan of taking advantage of liberal return policies, but Ikea is a massive multinational corp so

We've been buying Ikea "KIVIK" leather couches, primarily the 89" 'sofa' with the chase addition, and another time we made a L shaped couch with two of the 74" 'love seat' and a corner piece

Ikea leather is nice and thick, we don't have a dog, but two cats, never had a puncture etc. Stitching never ripped out, the cushions never sagged etc. The one or two minor scratches we had from the cats, the leather underneath was the same color etc etc so it was dyed all the way through

We ended up returning our old couch each time we moved within the 365 day limit, then buying a new one, and they were all equally good. If the couch brand was not "Ikea" my wife probably would have let me buy another one for our new place

One thing to remember with couches and mattresses is that they take between 2-7 days to begin to break in

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

That's a ball valve, it's basically a big marble with a stick on top, and a hole through the middle to let water through if everything is aligned right

If the handle is in the closed position, and it's leaking, the seal between the housing and the marble is failed and needs replacement, I don't think "forcing it further" will help you "close the door further shut" as you're implying

Probably just best to shut the upstream valve, then replace the whole thing. Yeah it's just a couple of wrenches and some teflon tape, probably. Make sure you have a plumber on speed dial in case you gently caress it up somehow, I take no responsibility if you flood your house though

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Just to confirm, your cat has an electrically adjustable height cat bed

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

We ordered one of these when we put in the new washing machine, it screams bloody murder if it gets wet, and has a wifi thing to alert you phone if you're not living though the pandemic and at the office when it happens

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07QP153GT

We just put one under the sink in every bathroom and kitchen, plus behind the dishwasher. They're like $20 each, but, uh, yeah

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Over a decade ago I bought a set of these 2" actual cube, ice cube trays

https://www.amazon.com/Tovolo-Lasting-Sturdy-Silicone-Fade-Resistant/dp/B01M0CLQ72/

IMO they're far superior than anything that comes out of an automated machine. They're extra awesome if you like making cocktails at home, and you can crush them with a hammer (in a ziploc bag) for margarita ice in an emergency etc etc

You'd think the novelty wears off, but it really doesn't, 2" cubes are far superior to those half moon shaped things

That said, our next fridge is getting an ice maker

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Meth house seems like the ideal helicopter parent house. Kid can study day and night, ace those SATs

Probably a great rental property, you would have no trouble renting it out to medical students etc

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

My neighbor's microwave was causing this issue; my wireless keyboard would just stop working. I called in to maintenance and got his microwave replaced, problem went away.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Not sure how wide the frame is for the skylight, but water leaks around the skylight aren't terribly uncommon. But it could just be the other thing the guy said. Anything around a skylight, I wouldn't wait to get inspected.

Since it's tied to your skylight I give it greater than 50/50 chance that it's not covered by hoa

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

tater_salad posted:

I said fuckit if it becomes a problem I'll buy the little giant for $100-150 from home depot. Currently I just stick a towel there and it catches the little bit of water that overflows.

Pricing right now is gently caress you prices.

I googled "the little giant humidity" got pages and pages of egg incubator results and was very confused, before truncating to "little giant" which returns results for a sump pump

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Hutla posted:

Check out all of your doors and windows for leaks in and around them. As any Midwest renter with a landlord skirting the heat ordinances knows, a few $10 door snakes and some ugly window film can be the difference between feeling comfortable in the winter and wearing every sweater you own and still chattering your teeth.

At a previous rental I realized that the door was sealed against the frame, but the walls were hollow and the hollow walls extended to the door frame on the outside of the door seal. End result was that the middle of my walls had free air exchange with the outdoor air. The air had to go through the 1/4" gap between the door and the frame, but there was an obvious, continuous flow of heated air coming out. I ended up stuffing the opening to the hollow space with some newspaper (it's a rental), taping off the hollow with duct tape, and then putting some scrap wood over everything to make it semi permanent. Dropped my monthly bill by about 20%. I also used about half a roll of duct tape sealing up any hole on the exterior of the house larger than a pin hole, and repainted the painted-over windows, and put rugs over the hardwood floors where there were obvious cracks

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

OSU_Matthew posted:

Home Ownership Thread: I threw my fluke clamp meter on the bidet and dropped a dookie

New thread title?

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

The flexing depends on a lot, what kind of foundation, is it sloping towards a wall, or a chimney, or what used to be a chimney, how much flex etc

In one house we had pier and beam and it'd been 20 years since they leveled the foundation and there was some minor flex

In another house the foundation hadn't been adjusted in 70 years and was so bad if they tried to fix it the house would likely fall apart. There was a central chimney that the floors tied into it all sloped dangerously towards it on both floors

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Mar 10, 2021

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

You might look into powerline ethernet? I haven't done it personally, but apparently it's really improved in the last 10 years

That said I'd much rather have dedicated ethernet cable run, rather than be married to a some quasi proprietary technology. Cat 5e isn't going anywhere anytime soon as a global standard, and you're unlikely to get > 1gbps home internet in the next 5

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

2.4ghz remote control cars, drones etc will ruin wifi, as will musical wireless stuff. Our neighbors microwave got replaced and all our wifi issues went away the same day

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I was living in a rental with a detached garage at the back of the property leading to an alley. There was a 20' walkway between the garage and the house. Narrow but very deep lot. Upstairs neighbor moved out and her boyfriend took over the lease and moved cable service into his name.

Landlord had put in a really nice 4" pvc pipe under the walkway to the house, terminated in a little shed with the meters and coax distribution for our top bottom townhouse

Cable guy attached a new Y adapter at the pole, then strung it to the ground, then snaked the cable across the grass, then drilled 20+ holes in the 100 year old brick facade and drilled a hole in their bedroom wall and ran the cable through that

Never mind that the house had been professionally wired for the last 30+ years, and was still wired with active service through the existing underground wire/piping. My only guess is that the guy got some kind of bonus for doing a new install, and the upstairs neighbors were slacker stoners and wouldn't care about the new tripping hazard.

gently caress cable companies I'm glad I never have to deal with them again

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Home ownership thread: you can take that 24-inch drill and shove it where the sun don't shine

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Heat pump probably weighs less than 200 lbs, maybe less than 100

Is the heat pump pad attached to the house foundation? I've seen far far worse in Texas. It probably wouldn't hurt to squirt something in that cavity though

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Absolute worst case, disconnect the heat pump, pull the pad, dig down three inches and pour a new pad. That looks like three, maybe four bags of concrete, max

The heat pump probably has some ability to level using threaded rod on the feet

If you're super concerned about water intrusion from the heat pump pad towards the foundation you could put a bead of caulking to keep the worst of it from draining directly against the pad and prevent standing water from constantly refreezing there

Without seeing better photos of it, if it were me, I'd probably just shovel some dirt in there and plan on replacing the pad when the heat pump needs replacement in ~10 years

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Motronic posted:

Three inches of frozen ground being a normal thing

I'll never understand why people live that far north

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Mr. Crow posted:

According to https://www.weather.gov/ncrfc/LMI_FrostDepthMap

We're somewhere between 24-36" :sweatdrop:

That maps really nicely to NIH's binge drinking map

( https://arcr.niaaa.nih.gov/media/291/download , page 9)

I really can't wrap my head around living somewhere that cold, and I also don't want to. I like going skiing periodically, but I don't want that weather to follow me home.

Anyways glad you enjoy(?) living there

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Yeah if there's not a lamp plugged into the wall it's hard to tell what button does what for a lot of people, especially if there's no indicator LED. A kid or other prospective buyer might have tripped the test button, or somebody else's inspector

If the GFCI is on an exterior wall, or shares a wall with plumbing or some situation with possible water intrusion, it's worth doing some extra investigation though

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

skipdogg posted:

I don't have a Hue system, but I do have a color changing LED strip behind my TV, and a color changing/dimming bulb in lamp in my living room (cheap walmart 5 dollar wifi one). I use them late at night when I'm watching TV. I find a soft backlight behind the TV eases eye strain a little, and I just think it looks cool. I've got both set to a turquoise greenish color. The lamp is in a corner behind the couch and just throws off some light so I'm not sitting in total darkness. I've got both setup for an Alexa routine, I just tell her "TV at night" and she turns them on. Those are the only color changing lights in my house.

Yeah echoing this, the Phillips Hue light strips are $65 now and "install" using a sticky strip. Takes 90 seconds to install. We put one behind all our "long" furniture, the credenza in the dining room, the dresser in the master bedroom, dresser in the nursery, the media console below the tv, behind the desk in the office

Set it to "warm white" and it provides about the equivalent of 2 x 60w light bulbs to the room, but indirectly

And yeah you can set them to teal or hot pink, grt that Miami Vice vibe for Saturday night which is fun but not required

Really good way to add 2 extra bulbs worth of lighting to a room without buying extra lamps or recessed lighting, and indirect lighting is really easy on the eyes

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Bluetooth-Lightstrip-Compatible/dp/B08CKJWSFS/

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Mar 26, 2021

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Yeah hue sells much much cheaper "ambient" bulbs that do the candlelight all the way up to bright surgical blueish light

I've been hesitant to buy anything besides the Phillips Hue so far because I want the bulbs to last, and I don't trust third party wifi stuff not go get hacked and then compromise my home network. Having a bunch of rando Chinese bulbs on you personal wifi network* seems sketchy to me. Also third party Android apps might work now, but in three or four years who knows if it'll still be around or run on your phone. I guess that could happen too, but Philips is a ~150 year old company with a screwdriver named after then so seems like a safer bet.

Ikea and a couple other people are doing zigbee bulbs that are compatible, and that other brand that guy mentioned sounds interesting, although I'd opt for the zigbee version personally

On the flip side the off brand stuff is like a quarter the price of the Phillips hue stuff

*A lot of internet of things only work if they're on the same wifi network as your phone/Google home devices

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

DaveSauce posted:

Is it weird for a 20 year old house to have precisely 0 permits pulled for it?

Texas only recently (2007?) started requiring permits for stuff like hot water heaters, which IMO is excessive. Depending on where you're at it can be higher or lower. In my city anything beyond painting your interior walls anything besides white requires a permit.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Without "rocking" the appliance, what is the best way/how do I jack up one corner so I can

1) adjust the adjustable screw leg on my washer/dryer
2) put a shim under the corner of my fridge so it stops mauling the top of my roomba because my kitchen floor is just barely out of level in that exact spot
3) Jack up some of my other furniture

Also most of our furniture on the hardwood furniture has threaded adjustable legs, they only adjust about 1/4-1/2 inch. I'm thinking about ordering some new threaded rod and replacing all the feet on my furniture to bring it up 5/8 - 3/4" higher, so that the Roomba and Braava can get under there and keep the dust bunnies under control

I found a hydraulic jack that's 51mm tall (2") but it's almost $200, plus I don't have that much clearance on the fridge and large appliances

I guess a 1/4" piece of oak and some kind of adjustable fulcrum?

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Mar 31, 2021

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

What about the back where it's drat near impossible to reach

Way overthinking this, I almost want to put the whole thing on some kind of pre-leveled, vibration resistant, greased sled that slides out, and I can lock in place. The back and sides only have an inch or two of clearance on each side

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Elem7 posted:

As already covered you may be overthinking this whole thing but for the record if you need to lift something heavy with little clearance you probably want one of these. Little cheaper than $200.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XL88HP

Thread delivers

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Elem7 posted:

As already covered you may be overthinking this whole thing but for the record if you need to lift something heavy with little clearance you probably want one of these. Little cheaper than $200.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XL88HP

This is fantastic, I've had it for 30 minutes and already leveled every piece of furniture in the house + the fridge, and I didn't have to take anything off of the shelves/entertainment system, unload the fridge etc

Motronic posted:

3.) don't know what you mean. If you're talking about replacing the feet on it just......roll it over 90 degrees.

lol

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Speaking of rad floors, we recently got our braava mopping robot going again and hooolllly poo poo I was on a video call with my mom and even she noticed what a difference running the braava three times made

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Well what kind of paint are you using? Home depot sells the worlds worst flat white paint for $10 for 5 gallons, and I've paid $65/gallon for behr custom mixed paint, and that's not even the high end. I think we averaged about 1.75 gallons per bedroom

Edit: yes the price of the paint matters tremendously

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Freshly power washed brick > 30 year old faded vinyl siding > asbestos siding > painted brick

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Inner Light posted:

How would one who is not an electrician even find out a circuit is overloaded?

Your panel, or parts of it, will get hot if it's overload/ing/ed

Modern electrical stuff is ridiculously safe and over engineered, and sort of the foundation of the houses electrical system, while it's technically a fire hazard, anything after 1970 is probably well built

I remember some photos of a lan party where they were tripping the breaker over and over so they just wired an extension cord directly into the breaker, and then opened the panel and pointed a fan at it to keep it cool. Do not recommend that unless you want to burn your house down as the hotter the cable gets, the more resistance it creates and you end up in a runaway situation

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

One thing to remember is that in the last 20 years we've transitioned away from tungsten light bulbs to CFL and, rapidly to LED. Flipping on a switch now no longer activates a base load of 200-300 watts just for lighting, now it's more like 15-40 watts

Other than new high growth suburbs, power usage nationally has flattened or even dropped over the last 20 years, even with an increase of population

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Is it just ridiculously overkill to replace 15 amp defective outlets with 15 amp hospital grade outlets

I think if you buy them in bulk, outlets are $0.50 each, and the hospital grade ones are $5.00 each, but also the hospital grade ones are toddler proof and nearly indestructible and unlikely to need replacement in my lifetime.

$5 each sounds like a lot but we probably need to replace like, three, and is comparable to the gas needed to drive to the store to buy them

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

NomNomNom posted:

, not sure why you'd want "hospital grade"

Have you ever seen someone grab a cord and just yank on it to unplug it, particularly at a 90° angle to the plug. Imagine a toddler grabbing your hair dryer and running out of the bathroom with it while it's still plugged in, or whatever scenario

Hospital grade plug is designed to do that with a minimum of 30 lbs of force with no deformation of the plug contacts, something like 60 times

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Inner Light posted:

Random question, if an upstairs neighbor's water heater leaks and causes water damage to your place, let's say $1k -- can you file a claim against their homeowners insurance, do you file a claim with yours, or do neither and pay cash?

If you have no other claims, and you plan on living there for a really long time, maybe consider having them pay cash in a casual conversation. $1000 is probably way under their (or your) deductible, so now it's on your insurance claim record, plus you're paying for it, plus now your insurance is going to go up next year because now you have a claim on your insurance, and so does your neighbor.

I could just be talking out of my rear end though

Of course if the $1000 damage ends up being just slightly in your unit, and most of the real damage was the water going through your walls and damaging your downstairs neighbor's hardwood floors/steinway grand piano, now you don't have a paper trail proving it was the upstairs guy's insurance who needs to pay and things might get messy

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Two basin sink is superior because I like to rinse off dishes and leave/stage them on the counter, wife likes to stage them in the sink. With a two basin, one side can fill up, the other is still usable. Right now we have a single basin and the sink is full of dishes and unusable

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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

gently caress you you're not my dad

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