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Canned Sunshine
Nov 20, 2005

CAUTION: POST QUALITY UNDER CONSTRUCTION



I'm actually looking at options for termite treatment too. We bought our house last year (April 2019) and had the termite inspection done with no problems. The prior home owners claimed they'd down a full treatment the prior October in 2019. A few months back I saw some tunnels pop up in the center of the garage between the concrete floor slab EJs but they stopped and didn't proceed any further and I haven't seen any more tunnels so far anywhere else.

We had a termite company give us a quote for spot treatment but they recommended full perimeter treatment, using Dominion 2L. My wife and I have been trying for a second child, so we've been a bit nervous to do the full treatment given any chemica/pesticide exposure, especially during a first trimester, and I'm probably going to get some more quotes anyway. (The quote they gave for full perimeter treatment for a single story, 2100 sq.ft. house seemed ridiculousy cheap, like $480 for treatment + 1 year warranty or $670 for treatment + 5 year warranty. When she owned a condo several years back and we had Orkin do a termite treatment, it was like $800-900 for the perimeter treatment plus some wall foaming, using Termidor).

I did see the Sentricon system, but does it actually work? Sounds like it's more a money grab, but since we don't have active tunnels currently that I know of, I was hoping it could be a decent option.

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Canned Sunshine
Nov 20, 2005

CAUTION: POST QUALITY UNDER CONSTRUCTION



joepinetree posted:

On a related note, is consumer reports testing worth anything? I've been looking for any sort of concrete data on this and they claim to have it, but behind a paywall.

I used to put a lot of weight on CR's reviews, but I've now been burned twice on big appliance purchases that I did based on their reviews, and after researching and finding others having the same issues ultimately, it's made me put a lot less weight on what they say, fwiw.

I think one of the primary issues is that they try to base some of the ratings, such as reliability, on a brand's past performance, which I get, but when the brand changes ownership, introduces new systems/tech, etc., they seem to continue to rate based on past results and not take into account any potential changeover impacts.

Canned Sunshine
Nov 20, 2005

CAUTION: POST QUALITY UNDER CONSTRUCTION



Our oven died and even if I could get it repaired, I’m not sure I’d want to. It’s a 2012 Frigidaire builders grade electric glass ceramic range.

If my budget for a new oven is up to $1,500, what typically should I be looking toward if I’m looking electric. It seems like for that much I could get a nice glass ceramic radiant, but I also noticed that Frigidaire (and the IKEA units they make) have induction options in the $1250-1450 range.

Is induction at that price, with the obvious trade offs I’d assume got it there, make it worthwhile over a higher end radiant type?

Canned Sunshine
Nov 20, 2005

CAUTION: POST QUALITY UNDER CONSTRUCTION



So the old Frigidaire refrigerator that came with my house is dying, and given past problems we had, I'm using it as an excuse to replace it.

What's the general consensus on the likes of Frigidaire's Gallery line, and also anything made by Whirlpool or GE? We previously had an LG at our old house that we only got 3-ish years out of thanks to their horrible Linear Compressor design, and I'm not about to take their word for it that they've finally, truly, corrected the engineering flaws it has. I'm also going to avoid Samsung like the plague, and I've seen before where people said to avoid Bosch, though I did see a 500-series French Door model that seemed ok.

Ideally though I think we'd stick with a side-by-side since we have young kids who would probably love to make a bottom freezer their playground.

Canned Sunshine
Nov 20, 2005

CAUTION: POST QUALITY UNDER CONSTRUCTION



Thanks everyone, I really appreciate the responses. One of the challenges has been sifting through the various online reviews available on store sites, weeding out the obvious sponsored/etc. ones. I also have a Consumer Reports membership but lately I feel as if they're not that great of a resource anymore due to the limited time and nature of their reviews.

Here's a couple of the models I have been considering, in case anyone knows anything or sees obvious red flags.

GE Profile: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/ge-profile-25-3-cu-ft-side-by-side-refrigerator-with-led-lighting-stainless-steel/6445487.p?skuId=6445487
- Seems to get good reviews
- Might have a water tank/tubing for chilled water (hard to tell - some GEs do, some don't)
- 5-year limited warranty on the cooling system (1-year for overall unit)

Maytag: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/maytag-24-5-cu-ft-side-by-side-refrigerator-stainless-steel/6319615.p?skuId=6319615
- Reviews seem ok, but some about a noisy ice maker/etc.
- 10-year warranty on the compressor, but 1-year overall
- Styling matches the KitchenAid microwave we have (FWIW, our microwave and oven both went out during the pandemic, and due to supply chain constraints, we settled for what we could get with the features we wanted. Of course now we have four kitchen appliances from four different brands and each has its own aesthetic obviously).
- Ice maker in the freezer door - I've heard this is worse than when it's just in the general freezer space, but haven't seen anything conclusive? Obviously it's less total stored ice than the Frigidaire and especially the GE, but we do use a lot of ice.
- Also has chilled water storage of some kind.

Whirlpool: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/whirlpool-28-4-cu-ft-side-by-side-refrigerator-stainless-steel/5811900.p?skuId=5811900#anchor=productVariations
- Reviews seem ok, although on this and some other Whirlpools, there are a few complaints about the wiring harness on the freezer door hinge becoming damaged and then the ice/water dispenser losing power, so that seems like a concern. It may have been fixed now though? And I can always reinforce it after delivery.
- Also has the ice maker in the door, so unsure of this.
- This styling actually then matches our Whirlpool oven we bought during the pandemic.
- Largest capacity of any of the ones we're looking at, which is nice for a house with 3 young boys who can or will eat a lot...

Frigidaire: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/frigidaire-gallery-25-6-cu-ft-side-by-side-refrigerator-stainless-steel/6461530.p?skuId=6461530
- Has a half-size ice bucket, so a little more freezer space, which is nice.
- Also doesn't have the ice in the freezer door itself.
- Reviews seem decent, but Consumer Reports has it scored poorly on "noise", and actual reviews aren't clear on it, partly because I know noise is subjective.
- It also apparently no longer has any length of tubing for "chilled" water, which isn't too big of a deal, except that I'm in Phoenix and in the summer, it can take several minutes to cool our water down at faucets because our piping is through the attic.
- Only has a 1-year warranty overall


FISHMANPET posted:

I've had a GE french door for a year and a half that I've been happy with (so not really long enough to know the long-term reliability. One of the things I like about it is that the water dispenser is inside the fridge, and there's no ice dispenser, just an ice maker that dumps into a bucket in the freezer. One of the most common failure modes I saw from reading here over the years has been water lines freezing because the water line runs through a freezer section, but the way my dispenser/ice machine are constructed, the water doesn't run through the freezer section, so the simplicity there of having to use a scoop to get ice feels like a perk.

Yeah, when I was researching, I actually found a GE model like you described (https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-24-7-cu-ft-French-Door-Refrigerator-in-Fingerprint-Resistant-Stainless-Steel-ENERGY-STAR-GNE25JYKFS/319236498), which does have me intrigued because it does eliminate the external dispenser, so one less thing to fail like you said. And scooping our ice wouldn't be a big deal. My wife pointed out that our two oldest boys now like to get their own water/etc., so that'd go away, but I also pointed out that the younger two also like to push the water dispenser and make water go everywhere in front of it, so...

Canned Sunshine
Nov 20, 2005

CAUTION: POST QUALITY UNDER CONSTRUCTION



H110Hawk posted:

If that's the case - call em up! Ask what mitigation the contractor should have done! "Hey, I called on X date-and-time to inquire about painting over lead paint and was told no permit needed by <name>. My licensed contractor left a bunch of lead paint chips in my dirt, are they required to capture those?"

I'm in no way an expert on this, but from some projects I have been involved with over the last 10-12 years that needed remediation of leaded paint, and soils, at a minimum, the EPA requires that the contractor maintain proper control of any "debris" and dust that comes about from the process, including HEPA filters within the area being remediated, frequent spraying of surfaces that could allow the leaded material to aerosolize, etc.

The projects I was involved with, they would shopvac up any debris from removal using a HEPA shopvac, followed by placing the vacuumed material in plastic bags which then get sealed and taken to a hazardous waste landfill (usually; it wouldn't surprise me at all if some jurisdictions are more lax on this).

They *definitely* are not supposed to just dump the woodchips somewhere external, unless I'm misinterpreting what occurred.

FWIW, when there was soil contamination, usually it would be excavated out and while that was occurring, someone would be standing by and constantly spraying the soil down to prevent any lead from going airborne.

Abyss posted:

It was not abatement, it was encapsulation with acrylic caulk & latex paint.

Just as an FYI, encapsulation can be an EPA-approved method of abatement, as long as it follows the proper guidelines, i.e. very specific coatings with specific final dry film thicknesses.

Latex paint and acrylic caulk on their own, do not necessarily meet the EPA's standard requirements for encapsulation.

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Canned Sunshine
Nov 20, 2005

CAUTION: POST QUALITY UNDER CONSTRUCTION



It could also just be that they ran a larger cold line, maybe 3/4”, when they ran the hot water line also, which would usually be 1/2” unless it was just a lateral off and continued on. This especially happens if there’s outlets downstream just would just use cold water, such as utility sinks, hose bibbs, etc.

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