|
Have fun!
|
#
?
May 25, 2016 18:47
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 3, 2024 04:29 |
|
|
Ya I already tried, it's treating it as a whole part number, I couldnt find just the screw. I'll take it to my Toyota dealer and see what they say. It's nice when people throw stuff out without asking first.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2016 18:49
|
|
|
How about this
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2016 18:51
|
|
|
I'll circle the part I think it is when I get home, but it's the female part of that speedo cable on the left side of the drawing before it hooks onto the drive. That's what I need.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2016 19:31
|
|
|
Well I am a giant idiot and sorry for making you try and help me, the part was in the box the cable came in, I just didnt notice until I went to grab another one to show you what I meant. Also I dug around in the garbage and found the old one too, but before I found the new one. Should be driving it tomorrow now I guess lol.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2016 22:32
|
|
|
Nice work, dipshit.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2016 23:59
|
|
|
88h88 posted:Nice work, dipshit. Harsh, especially with little/no evidence of pajama bottoms yet.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2016 16:03
|
|
|
I know, I'm an idiot lol. I'll pick it up after work tonight and then I'll probably do an update tonight or on the weekend when I have free time.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2016 17:13
|
|
|
Well, you're about where I was with my '87 turbo when I decided to sell my daily to help pay off student loans. Secondhand Supra projects are known for stability and nothing will go wrong. Mine had a horribly wired MAF-T (with a broken housing, it might have been third-hand when previous owner got it) that caused the car to stall miserably while warm and he'd stripped the harness wrapping so it was impossible to follow around the rats nest of the million cables other previous owners had used to install previous god knows whats. Once I had made it reliable enough to turn begging friends for rides into giving friends rides, it became the first car I really loved. I was heartbroken when it finally sold. Such great cars. All the best to yours.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2016 17:56
|
|
|
Mine has had a few bodges but overall now it's under my care is doing pretty well. It was definitely well looked after by the first owner, probably garaged all year round. The last few owners though? Pff. Luckily the last guy that had it basically bought it, left it alone for 2 years with a blown head gasket, replaced it, tootled around for 6 months in it and then sold it to me. Saved me some effort. All I know is I paid virtually gently caress all for a 3l 80s sportscar and it's fantastic fun to drive... Hope you get to spank yours soon OP, we are family now. 
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2016 22:07
|
|
|
Welcome to the world of Supra ownership!  Here are a few pieces of advice I’ve gathered over the span of my 16 years of ownership. When it comes to maintenance the MK3 Supra is a fickle mistress. Cut corners or "hope" things will be ok and you'll pay more later on and be left on the side of the road. I personally wouldn't throw any performance upgrades at the motor without addressing the base issues first. The whole setup needs a good foundation from the start. Toyota decided that during production that 56 ft/lb was a sufficient torque for the head bolts and this has lead to nearly every 7M engine ending up with a blown headgasket in its life. Regardless of what the PO may have said you should seriously consider doing the following before considering anything in the realm of upgrades. Have a coolant system/block pressure test performed. The 7M is a bi-metal engine and it really only takes a single overheat to warp the head and release the white smoke monster. If the pressure test is good then pull the intake and valve covers then look up the procedure to retorque the head bolts to 72 ft/lbs. Sign up for the forums at Supramania and start digging around, it’s a wealth of information and geared more to the MK3 crowd.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2016 23:08
|
|
|
s0urc3 posted:Mine had a horribly wired MAF-T Do you mean the AFM (airflow meter)? These cars don't use a MAF that I'm aware of.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 15:44
|
|
|
AFMs are Satan so maybe it has already been replaced with a MAF 
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2016 15:52
|
|
|
Sorry it's been so long since I did an update, I've had an uncomfortable medical condition that has made moving around and sitting in my low rear end car very annoying the past week. But I've been driving it as much as I can, and it's a lot of fun. There are a lot of small rust spots on edges and a lot of the siding stuff is starting to come off. The muffler is pretty hosed too (I'll get pictures of that later on). There's a bolt missing on the one side engine mount. The hose going into the intake manifold (I think) isn't bolted down either, but feels pretty secure. I gave the car a wash and got most of the stickers off, but you can still see most of the edges from where the decals use to be. Also doesn't this car have a retractable antennae? I haven't seen it move once and I get terrible radio reception. And the speakers really blow so I might buy some new ones soon (I love driving and listening to music) http://imgur.com/a/wT7XP here is an album of the problems that stand out the most. It also has a thin paint job and I should probably look at getting it redone professionally in a few years. I am also learning stick on this car which is pretty fun. I can take off pretty consistantly now, and I'm trying to practice downshifting when I come to corners and stops etc. When I down shift and I can't get the gear in right away, do I just apply some pressure until it drops in or is there a better method? All my friends drive automatic too except for one but I hate interacting with him cause h's a giant tool so I might be asking a lot of questions as I want to get better. edit: There are 3 green rectangles for my TEMS suspension when the car does its self check when you go to start it, but only shows 2 in "sport mode" and 1 in "normal mode". What does that third rectangle mean? Hot Karl Marx fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Jun 4, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2016 15:32
|
|
|
Hot Karl Marx posted:Sorry it's been so long since I did an update, I've had an uncomfortable medical condition that has made moving around and sitting in my low rear end car very annoying the past week. But I've been driving it as much as I can, and it's a lot of fun. There are a lot of small rust spots on edges and a lot of the siding stuff is starting to come off. The muffler is pretty hosed too (I'll get pictures of that later on). There's a bolt missing on the one side engine mount. The hose going into the intake manifold (I think) isn't bolted down either, but feels pretty secure. Don't bother trying to replace it with a retractable one unless you can find a working one from the wreckers for next to nothing. They cost a fortune brand new and are pretty notoriously unreliable regardless of car, let alone a japanese car in the rust belt. Also, by "paint job" you do realize it's going to cost you thousands, not only because a good paint job will cost that, you've got body work. Just by those pics you're got rust trying to come to the surface, and it is always more than you think. It looks like the PO had his hand with rattle paint and maybe even a brush in a couple of those album photos. Try and get your car mechanically sound and enjoy it as is. Keep it clean, especially if you must drive it in the winter. Unless you have more money than you know what to do with, or an aspiring bodyman, don't have dreams of giving it a "paint job" Regarding downshifting: Force it into gear. It'll eventually go. Just kidding, no, don't do that. There could be all sorts of reasons why it doesn't want to go in. Generally you're going too fast for the RPM you're at for the gear you want to drop too. Either blip the throttle up or let the speed drop. Just practice on downshifting by letting the speed drop until you get more comfortable with a stick. Not so crazy idea: Take some drivers classes on a manual transmission car instead of getting people trying to describe it on the internet. Have you changed ALL the fluids on the car? Diff, transmission, oil, PS, brake, clutch, coolant? e: No idea about your lights for your shocks, but I would be surprised if your 30 year old factory adjustable electronic suspension works. I know on my old 300ZX Turbo the adjustable shocks were something like $1100 each in the early 1990s. If you need suspension work (I'm sure you do) just check and see if you can replace the shocks with standard non-adjustable shocks. If I had to guess, a replacement for the Non-turbo car should fit. slidebite fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Jun 4, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2016 16:36
|
|
|
Yeah do not paint this car. It is not a forever car. You're using it to learn more about what you really like. Painting a beater is like putting a ring on the waitress at Applebee's: you do not really know her and maybe when you sober up you might not like her. If anything you could become the PO and give it a rustoleum roller job. Embrace your fate.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2016 17:12
|
|
|
I basically just want to keep it as a fun summer car, I got a 2014 sierra and I use an '06 silverado as my daily to and from work. The oil and coolant has been changed, I don't think the tranny has, and the PO said the diff was done last year. The others probably aren't done either. I'm not going to be doing any sort of winter driving, I probably won't even drive it unless I can have the top off. Basically I want to keep it mechanically sound for the rest of the summer and then in the winter I can keep it on stands and do most of the real work. I'm just not sure where to start, probably checking all the fluids would be a good start. I need to buy a jack and some stands, I'll get some soon. I don't mind trying to keep this car forever, but I'm not going to be dumping a lot of money into it any time soon. I need to start tackling the rust then. Should I just sand the rusty spots down and re-prime it and then find a pen that matches the weird sparkling white the car is? Edit: manual chat slidebite posted:Regarding downshifting: So I know you're supposed to rev up before you let off the clutch when you downshift for a smooth transition, but when you say blip the throttle up, do you mean with the clutch depressed, while shifting? So going from 3rd to 2nd, if I'm at 2.5k rpm's in 3rd I would blip to ~ 3.5k with the clutch depressed then slide it into 2nd? Or blip up without touching the clutch? I would do a lesson but I don't have a consistent schedule and its hard for me to get time off work without planning like a month or two ahead. Hot Karl Marx fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Jun 4, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2016 18:20
|
|
|
Pictures of the rust would help but a lot depends if it's surface or straight through. Surface you can hold at bay for a couple years by scraping all of it out, sealing the bare metal up and keeping it sealed. While you're learning the downshift rev match will take time and be frustrating. One thing that helped me when I was learning was blipping just before releasing the clutch pedal but after moving the shifter.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2016 19:49
|
|
|
Think about it like this. In 3rd gear at say 40 mph you're at 3000 RPM. At the same speed in 2nd gear, you're would be at 4000 RPM let's say. You need to line up the engine RPM to the gear you're going to. When approaching a stop I usually just leave it in top gear and brake down to around 1000 RPM and then shift and blip the throttle while the clutch is in. Million ways to skin a cat. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2016 20:14
|
|
|
Nocheez posted:Do you mean the AFM (airflow meter)? These cars don't use a MAF that I'm aware of. Nope. It was this translator based on a MAF from a GM (Impala, I think) that one PO had found on a forum or something in the mid 00s. I barely remember the logic behind it but it was theorised as some sort of performance increase? Regardless, massive pain unwiring the awful job he did soldering it into the harness, but I was lucky enough to pick up a stock AFM and got that issue sorted relatively easily.
|
|
#
?
Jun 4, 2016 21:03
|
|
|
Hot Karl Marx posted:So going from 3rd to 2nd, if I'm at 2.5k rpm's in 3rd I would blip to ~ 3.5k with the clutch depressed then slide it into 2nd? Yes, this is all you need to do. It'll be hard to get right at first but you should soon be able to do it instinctively if you practice.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2016 18:43
|
|
|
slidebite posted:
It's already had a terrible respray. There's no way short of a full strip down / replace all weatherstripping / fix previous crap job to make it right again. Keep touching it up. Hope that the jerry-rigging that's holding it together continues to hold. Be glad you have other vehicles if/when it fails.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2016 22:45
|
|
EVERYWHERE 
|
Hot Karl Marx posted:Sorry it's been so long since I did an update, I've had an uncomfortable medical condition that has made moving around and sitting in my low rear end car very annoying the past week. But I've been driving it as much as I can, and it's a lot of fun. There are a lot of small rust spots on edges and a lot of the siding stuff is starting to come off. The muffler is pretty hosed too (I'll get pictures of that later on). There's a bolt missing on the one side engine mount. The hose going into the intake manifold (I think) isn't bolted down either, but feels pretty secure. The TEMS will only go full hard (3rd light) if you are driving really fast.
|
|
#
?
Jun 5, 2016 22:49
|
|
|
While I've not driven one myself, I've been told frequently by toyotabros that the R154 in the turbo MK IIIs shifts like an absolute pig, so you might find it doesn't just slide into gear with minimal effort. Unfortunately short of dropping $6000 on a V160 from the MK IV or trying to adapt a tremec, it's your only real option. Enough people drift 1JZ toyotas that it can't be that bad though, I guess?
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2016 13:25
|
|
|
Don Dongington posted:While I've not driven one myself, I've been told frequently by toyotabros that the R154 in the turbo MK IIIs shifts like an absolute pig, so you might find it doesn't just slide into gear with minimal effort. Unfortunately short of dropping $6000 on a V160 from the MK IV or trying to adapt a tremec, it's your only real option. If maintaining the 7M-GTE gets to be too expensive (looks like there are A LOT more parts for 1/2JZ's) I might do a swap, but this is like years away. It does take a bit of effort to get the gears to mesh, but it's not bad. This is the only standard car I've driven so I have nothing to compare it to. I was going to take it out this weekend, but there's a big storm here and thunderstorms all weekend. And the wipers don't work, so I might try and fix that this weekend. Hopefully it's just a fuse issue
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2016 14:40
|
|
|
Have you tried double clutching?
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2016 14:54
|
|
|
Don Dongington posted:
In my experience people will drift anything until it breaks unless they are competing at any serious level. This is why in the UK it was getting near impossible to find anything RWD and cheap because they had all been bought and turned into trackslags and drift cars. Of course this has had a knock on effect to the 2nd hand parts market where combined with age it is getting harder to source things like gearboxes as many of them have been blown to bits on track and then just scrapped.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2016 15:26
|
|
|
Drifting around my parts is doing donuts in fields with a jacked up ram 2500 with double stacks rolling coal
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2016 15:29
|
|
|
Where are you in Onterrible?
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2016 15:58
|
|
|
Stratford, I see so many god drat trucks with '519 TRUCKS' decals with camo. I drive a truck too, but I don't have it jacked up or anything though, I want to keep it for a while.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2016 16:04
|
|
|
Hot Karl Marx posted:Stratford, I see so many god drat trucks with '519 TRUCKS' decals with camo. I drive a truck too, but I don't have it jacked up or anything though, I want to keep it for a while. Oh cool, My girlfriend is from Stratford and her family has 100 acres near St. Pauls. Up here in Ottawa we have a 613 Trucks group (gang) that I follow on facebook ironically so I can laugh at hicks and also report them to the police when they incriminate themselves by posting videos of rolling coal on cyclists.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2016 16:16
|
|
|
For the record the gear shift on this era of Supra is shite, you'll never have it feeling like anything other than a tractor. The W54 in mine is functionally horrible and the W154 in the turbos is equally as bad if not a touch worse. Yours will take more power though. I've finally murdered a head gasket in mine so am now looking around at options before doing it myself. It popped a couple of weeks ago and the car's still drivable albiet you need to top up the coolant every 30 miles... In the final diagnosis of the fault I took it for a blast down some winding country roads and to be fair it still pulled hard, just got hot. Parked up at home and I think the tension of finally being safe on the driveway caused it to finally go. She now burns coolant out of the exhaust so it's definitely head gasket. Previous owner obviously hosed up or cheaped out on the replacement. Might go with a metal gasket but I'll be getting some electric fans and replacing all the hoses, thermostat etc at the same time.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2016 18:01
|
|
|
I've got an R154 mated to my 1JZ, I do believe that the only Supra that got the 154 was the JZA70, not an MA-70, so a slightly later model (JZA was 90-93). MA-70 comes with a W58 gearbox I think. My box has 85k miles on it, and it's pretty notchy to shift, and I find myself double clutching just out of habit. E: Nope, I'm wrong. Turbo 7M came with 154. gently caress. fingerling fucked around with this message at 15:08 on Jul 13, 2016 |
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 15:05
|
|
|
Sorry I haven't been doing anything with this thread, been super busy at work. I had the car out last weekend and yeah it takes some effort to shift sometimes. Reverse really doesn't like to go in. The check engine light came on last drive. Should I be taking it to Toyota, or is anyplace with diagnostics be fine? Also isn't there a way to get an attachment and hook it to your phone? I've seen some ODB2 apps on the play store but I don't want to buy the wrong thing. Now that work is steady I'm gonna get a nice jack and some stands so I can do most of the work myself. Need to learn somehow!
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 15:41
|
|
|
Hot Karl Marx posted:Sorry I haven't been doing anything with this thread, been super busy at work. I had the car out last weekend and yeah it takes some effort to shift sometimes. Reverse really doesn't like to go in. https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ + https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 16:14
|
|
|
An 87 Supra doesn't have an OBD port, it's more oldschool than that. All you need is a piece of solid core wire and some basic math skills. http://www.troublecodes.net/toyota/toyota-87-92-supra-3-0l-turbo/
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 16:29
|
|
|
88h88 posted:An 87 Supra doesn't have an OBD port, it's more oldschool than that. All you need is a piece of solid core wire and some basic math skills. Super monitor display sounds pretty 
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 20:31
|
|
|
It was only available in North America for (I think) 2 years, 87-88 perhaps. It looks pretty handy, more cars should have something like that.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 20:51
|
|
|
Uhh what's the super monitor display? Is it something I have to buy? I'm off tomorrow now so I'll try loving around with those instructions
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2016 23:58
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 3, 2024 04:29 |
|
|
If you have the super monitor display it'll say so on it (it's the same screen as your clock and the only digital thing in the car)
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2016 00:02
|
|